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Snowberry romper for babies Novita Baby Wool and Venla

Snowberry romper for babies Novita Baby Wool and Venla

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This lovely onesie is knitted in one piece of Novita Baby Wool. First, the crotch and legs are knitted top to bottom, then the cast-on stitches are picked up, and the bodice is knitted bottom to top.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 29
Skill level Intermediate
Snowberry romper for babies Novita Baby Wool and Venla
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Snowberry romper for babies Novita Baby Wool and Venla
Snowberry romper for babies Novita Baby Wool and Venla

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N041929
    Pattern details
    Size
    56/62(68/74)80/86(92/98) cm

    Yarn demand
    Novita Baby Wool
    Rose 100(100)150(150) g and

    Novita Venla
    Apple Blossom for the string

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in):
    Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) and
    Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or sizes needed;

    Double-pointed needles;
    Novita 3½ mm (UK 9½ / US 4) and
    Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) two double-pointed needles for the i-cord

    Other supplies:
    2 buttons

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Back crotch

    Using the larger circular needle cast on 12(12)16(16) sts and purl the WS row. Work stockinette st flat. On every row increase 1 st at both ends inside the edge sts (= yarn over; on the next row knit or purl it through the back loop). Repeat the increases 17(19)19(21) times in total = 46(50)54(58) sts. Leave the sts on hold.

    Front crotch

    Using the larger circular needle pick up 12(12)16(16) sts from the cast-on edge and purl the WS row. Work stockinette st flat until the front crotch measures 3(3,5)3,5(4) cm. At the end of row at both ends cast on 2x2 sts, 1x3 sts, 1x4(5)5(6) sts and 1x6(7)7(8) sts = 46(50)54(58) sts.

    Body

    RS: work the 46(50)54(58) front sts, place side marker, work the 46(50)54(58) back sts, place marker (= beginning of round). 92(100)108(116) sts now on the needles. Work stockinette st in the round.

    When the body measures 2(3)3,5(4,5) cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of both markers: *k1, skp, work stockinette st to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1*, repeat *–* once more. 4 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases every 2(2)2,5(2,5) cm 3 more times = 76(84)92(100) sts.

    When the body measures 10(11,5)13(14,5) cm, work more height to the back piece with short rows: work 38(42)46(50) front sts, slip first marker, work to last 4 sts before second marker. Turn work. Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous row come over the needle = double stitch. Purl to last 4 sts before next marker, turn work, double stitch. Keep working short rows, turning the work 4 sts before the previous double stitch. Work until there are 3 double stitches at both ends.

    Next round: knit to end, knitting the legs of the double stitches together as a single stitch. Knit 1 round, knitting together the remaining double stitches.

    Opening for string: k19(21)23(25), turn work. Purl to previous turn, slipping both markers. Turn work. Work 3 rows in stockinette st, then knit the WS row (= fold row). Next round: knit to beginning of round marker. Work stockinette st in the round for 4 rounds. Bind off loosely. Fold the opening and sew it to the WS.

    Using the smaller circular needle pick up sts from the top edge of the opening. Start at the left end (former beginning of round) and pick up 1 st per each purl st on the fold = 76(84)92(100) sts. Place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 2 cm.

    Top front

    Switch to the larger needles and work as follows: work 3 sts in garter st, k5(7)6(8), place marker, k22(22)28(28), place marker, k5(7)6(8), work 3 sts in garter st and bind off next 38(42)46(50) sts (back) loosely. 38(42)46(50) front sts remaining.

    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart I(I)II(II): work 3 sts in garter st, k5(7)6(8), slip marker, work the lace pattern, slip marker, k5(7)6(8), work 3 sts in garter st. 1 st decreased, 37(41)45(49) sts on the needles.

    Row 2: (WS) work 3 sts in garter st, purl to marker, work next row of chart I(I)II(II), purl to last 3 sts, work 3 sts in garter st.

    Row 3: (RS) work 2 sts in garter st, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), knit to marker, work next row of chart, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, work 2 sts in garter st. 2 sts decreased.

    Repeat rows 2–3 4(5)5(6) more times = 27(29)33(35) sts. Work even until you have worked row 22.

    Work garter st for 8 rows with all sts. Next row: k7, leave the 7 sts on hold, bind off next 13(15)19(21) sts, work to end.

    Shoulder straps

    With the 7 sts at the left end work garter st for 16(17)18(19) cm or until the strap is 2 cm from desired length. On the next row make a buttonhole: k3, yarn over, k2tog, k2. Work garter st for 2 cm, then bind off. Knit the other shoulder strap in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Cuffs: using the 3½ mm double-pointed needles pick up 46(48)50(52) sts from the leg opening and divide them onto four needles. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Work the other cuff in the same manner.

    Sew the buttons onto the back piece, at the edge of the ribbing. Steam and shape.

    I-cord string: k4, *do not turn work. Slide the sts back to the right end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k4.* Repeat *–* until the string measures approx. 90(100) cm. Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in the ends.

    Pass the string through the opening and tie a bow in front.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 38(42)46(50) cm / 15(16½)18(19¾) in back length from crotch to top edge of waist 23,5(25,5)27(29) cm / 9¼(10)10¾(11½) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns:
    - Stockinette stitch in the round:
    knit all rows.
    - Stockinette stitch:
    knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Ribbing in the round:
    *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.
    - Garter stitch:
    knit all rows.
    - Lace pattern:
    follow the chart and instructions.

    Gauge:
    20 sts and 28 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Back crotch

    Using the larger circular needle cast on 12(12)16(16) sts and purl the WS row. Work stockinette st flat. On every row increase 1 st at both ends inside the edge sts (= yarn over; on the next row knit or purl it through the back loop). Repeat the increases 17(19)19(21) times in total = 46(50)54(58) sts. Leave the sts on hold.

    Front crotch

    Using the larger circular needle pick up 12(12)16(16) sts from the cast-on edge and purl the WS row. Work stockinette st flat until the front crotch measures 3(3,5)3,5(4) cm. At the end of row at both ends cast on 2x2 sts, 1x3 sts, 1x4(5)5(6) sts and 1x6(7)7(8) sts = 46(50)54(58) sts.

    Body

    RS: work the 46(50)54(58) front sts, place side marker, work the 46(50)54(58) back sts, place marker (= beginning of round). 92(100)108(116) sts now on the needles. Work stockinette st in the round.

    When the body measures 2(3)3,5(4,5) cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of both markers: *k1, skp, work stockinette st to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1*, repeat *–* once more. 4 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases every 2(2)2,5(2,5) cm 3 more times = 76(84)92(100) sts.

    When the body measures 10(11,5)13(14,5) cm, work more height to the back piece with short rows: work 38(42)46(50) front sts, slip first marker, work to last 4 sts before second marker. Turn work. Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous row come over the needle = double stitch. Purl to last 4 sts before next marker, turn work, double stitch. Keep working short rows, turning the work 4 sts before the previous double stitch. Work until there are 3 double stitches at both ends.

    Next round: knit to end, knitting the legs of the double stitches together as a single stitch. Knit 1 round, knitting together the remaining double stitches.

    Opening for string: k19(21)23(25), turn work. Purl to previous turn, slipping both markers. Turn work. Work 3 rows in stockinette st, then knit the WS row (= fold row). Next round: knit to beginning of round marker. Work stockinette st in the round for 4 rounds. Bind off loosely. Fold the opening and sew it to the WS.

    Using the smaller circular needle pick up sts from the top edge of the opening. Start at the left end (former beginning of round) and pick up 1 st per each purl st on the fold = 76(84)92(100) sts. Place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 2 cm.

    Top front

    Switch to the larger needles and work as follows: work 3 sts in garter st, k5(7)6(8), place marker, k22(22)28(28), place marker, k5(7)6(8), work 3 sts in garter st and bind off next 38(42)46(50) sts (back) loosely. 38(42)46(50) front sts remaining.

    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart I(I)II(II): work 3 sts in garter st, k5(7)6(8), slip marker, work the lace pattern, slip marker, k5(7)6(8), work 3 sts in garter st. 1 st decreased, 37(41)45(49) sts on the needles.

    Row 2: (WS) work 3 sts in garter st, purl to marker, work next row of chart I(I)II(II), purl to last 3 sts, work 3 sts in garter st.

    Row 3: (RS) work 2 sts in garter st, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), knit to marker, work next row of chart, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, work 2 sts in garter st. 2 sts decreased.

    Repeat rows 2–3 4(5)5(6) more times = 27(29)33(35) sts. Work even until you have worked row 22.

    Work garter st for 8 rows with all sts. Next row: k7, leave the 7 sts on hold, bind off next 13(15)19(21) sts, work to end.

    Shoulder straps

    With the 7 sts at the left end work garter st for 16(17)18(19) cm or until the strap is 2 cm from desired length. On the next row make a buttonhole: k3, yarn over, k2tog, k2. Work garter st for 2 cm, then bind off. Knit the other shoulder strap in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Cuffs: using the 3½ mm double-pointed needles pick up 46(48)50(52) sts from the leg opening and divide them onto four needles. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then bind off in pattern.

    Work the other cuff in the same manner.

    Sew the buttons onto the back piece, at the edge of the ribbing. Steam and shape.

    I-cord string: k4, *do not turn work. Slide the sts back to the right end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k4.* Repeat *–* until the string measures approx. 90(100) cm. Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in the ends.

    Pass the string through the opening and tie a bow in front.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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