Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Snowberry hat for babies Novita Baby Merino and Baby Merino Dream
As low as €5.95
Soft, fingering-weight baby merino yarn is used to create this beautiful baby hat. The hat has a knitted lining, which is knitted as a mirror image after the first half is finished. For the lining, we use the colourful Novita Baby Merino Dream yarn.
Novita Talvi 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
25
Expert
Availability: In stock
N041925
Size
One sizeYarn demand
Novita Baby MerinoTop: Tin <50(50) g and
Novita Baby Merino Dream
Lining: Raindrop <50(50) g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in):Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or size needed
Double-pointed needles:
Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½)
Designer
Sari NordlundTop
Using the circular needle cast on 84(112) sts, place marker for beginning of round, and work stockinette st in the round.
After 5 rounds place 4 markers for the ear flaps: k7(11), place marker, k22(26) (right ear flap), place marker, k26(38), place marker, k22(26) (left ear flap), place marker, work to end.
Right ear flap: *knit to marker, slip marker, k13(15), turn work. Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous row come over the needle = double stitch. P3, turn work, double stitch. Knit to next double stitch, knit the legs of the double stitch together as a single stitch, k1, turn work. Purl to next double stitch, purl the legs of the double stitch together as a single stitch, p1, turn work.
Keep working short rows, turning back after working 1 st after each double stitch. Work until the last double stitches are right next to the markers. Work the RS row to next double stitch, work the double stitch and slip marker.*
Left ear flap: Repeat *-*. Then work stockinette st to end of round.
On the next round work the legs of the double stitch together as a single stitch. Remove the ear flap markers but not the beginning of round marker. Work 8 rounds in stockinette st.
Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart: work the 1 st at the right end, repeat the 14 st pattern 5(7) times, work the 13 sts at left. Work rows 2-22 of the chart.
Then work stockinette st in the round until the hat measures 9(12,5) cm from the front edge. On the next round place 4 markers for decreases: k10(14), place marker, *k21(28), place marker*, repeat *-* 3 times in total, work to end.
On the next round begin decreases: *knit to last 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, skp*, repeat *-* 3 more times, work to end. 8 sts decreased, 76(104) sts on the needles. Repeat the decreases every other round 7(10) more times = 20(24) sts. Note: Switch to the double-pointed needles when needed.
Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in the ends.
Lining
Using the lining colour and the circular needle, pick up and knit 84(112) sts from the cast-on edge, place marker for beginning of round and work like the top of the hat. Work the lace section in stockinette st. Begin the decreases when the lining measures 8,5(12) cm from the front so the lining won't be too long. Work the decreases as established.
Finishing
Weave in all ends between the top and the lining. Fold the lining to the inside, then steam and shape the hat.
I-cord strings: Using the double-pointed needles and the top colour, pick up 4 sts from the bottom edge of the ear flap, at the edge of the top and the lining. K4, *do not turn work, slide the sts back to the right end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k4.* Repeat *-* until the string measures approx. 25(30) cm. Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in the ends. Knit the other string in the same manner.
If you want, make a pompom approx. 5 cm in diameter using the lining colour.
Finished dimensions
Head circumference approx. 40(48) cm / 15¾(19) inStitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:- Stockinette stitch in the round:
knit all rows.
- Stockinette stitch:
knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
- Lace pattern:
follow the chart and instructions.
Gauge:
28 sts and 40 rows in stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in
Top
Using the circular needle cast on 84(112) sts, place marker for beginning of round, and work stockinette st in the round.
After 5 rounds place 4 markers for the ear flaps: k7(11), place marker, k22(26) (right ear flap), place marker, k26(38), place marker, k22(26) (left ear flap), place marker, work to end.
Right ear flap: *knit to marker, slip marker, k13(15), turn work. Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous row come over the needle = double stitch. P3, turn work, double stitch. Knit to next double stitch, knit the legs of the double stitch together as a single stitch, k1, turn work. Purl to next double stitch, purl the legs of the double stitch together as a single stitch, p1, turn work.
Keep working short rows, turning back after working 1 st after each double stitch. Work until the last double stitches are right next to the markers. Work the RS row to next double stitch, work the double stitch and slip marker.*
Left ear flap: Repeat *-*. Then work stockinette st to end of round.
On the next round work the legs of the double stitch together as a single stitch. Remove the ear flap markers but not the beginning of round marker. Work 8 rounds in stockinette st.
Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart: work the 1 st at the right end, repeat the 14 st pattern 5(7) times, work the 13 sts at left. Work rows 2-22 of the chart.
Then work stockinette st in the round until the hat measures 9(12,5) cm from the front edge. On the next round place 4 markers for decreases: k10(14), place marker, *k21(28), place marker*, repeat *-* 3 times in total, work to end.
On the next round begin decreases: *knit to last 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, k1, skp*, repeat *-* 3 more times, work to end. 8 sts decreased, 76(104) sts on the needles. Repeat the decreases every other round 7(10) more times = 20(24) sts. Note: Switch to the double-pointed needles when needed.
Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in the ends.
Lining
Using the lining colour and the circular needle, pick up and knit 84(112) sts from the cast-on edge, place marker for beginning of round and work like the top of the hat. Work the lace section in stockinette st. Begin the decreases when the lining measures 8,5(12) cm from the front so the lining won't be too long. Work the decreases as established.
Finishing
Weave in all ends between the top and the lining. Fold the lining to the inside, then steam and shape the hat.
I-cord strings: Using the double-pointed needles and the top colour, pick up 4 sts from the bottom edge of the ear flap, at the edge of the top and the lining. K4, *do not turn work, slide the sts back to the right end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k4.* Repeat *-* until the string measures approx. 25(30) cm. Break the yarn and pull it through the sts. Weave in the ends. Knit the other string in the same manner.
If you want, make a pompom approx. 5 cm in diameter using the lining colour.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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