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Sinikka’s Heart Socks Novita 7 Veljestä

Sinikka’s Heart Socks Novita 7 Veljestä

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These charming socks from Novita 7 Veljestä combine various heart patterns with other colourwork sections continuing from cuff to toe.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2016 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 39
Skill level Intermediate
Sinikka’s Heart Socks Novita 7 Veljestä
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Sinikka’s Heart Socks Novita 7 Veljestä
Sinikka’s Heart Socks Novita 7 Veljestä

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N031639
    Pattern details
    Size
    women’s shoe size 5

    Yarn demand
    Novita 7 Veljestä
    A Lichen slightly less than 100 g,
    B White slightly less than 100 g,
    C Raspberry slightly less than 100 g
    D Graphite 50 g
    E Cherry 50 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles
    Set of 5 double pointed needles Novita 3.5 mm
    Or the size required to give you the correct tension.

    Designer
    Sinikka Nissi

    Details

    Using yarn A cast on 60 sts and distribute the sts onto 4 double pointed needles, 15 sts on each. The beginning of the round will be between needle I and needle IV.

    Start following Chart I at row 1 and work the 4 stitch repeat for 15 times. Work rows 1–4 for a total of 5 times and after that work row 1 once more.

    Next round: K to end and at the same time increase 1 st on each needle = 64 sts.

    Start following Chart II at row 1 and keep repeating the 2 stitch pattern to end. Next, work rows 2–7.

    Continue following Chart II at row 8 and work the 8 stitch repeat for 8 times. Next, work rows 9–39. On rows 21–39 you will be working a 16 stitch pattern repeat for 4 times.

    Row 40: K to end and at the same time decrease 1 st on each needle = 60 sts.

    Work rows 41–42 and keep repeating the 2 stitch pattern repeat.

    Change to yarn A and work rows 43–53. You will be repeating a 15 stitch pattern for 4 times.

    Row 54: K to end and at the same time decrease 1 st on each needle = 56 sts.

    Continue following Chart II at row 55 and keep repeating the 2 stitch pattern to end. Work rows 56–61 and on row 60 decrease 1 st on each needle = 52 sts.

    Work rows 62 – 75 and work the 13 stitch pattern repeat for 4 times.

    Work rows 76–91.

    Start working the heel flap:

    With yarn A knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 26 sts. Leave the rest of the sts on hold for a while. Turn work and start working a reinforced heel flap:

    Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p to end. Turn work.

    Row 2 (RS): *Sl1 wyib, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

    Repeat these 2 rows until you have worked them for 12 times (= 24 rows).

    Next row: P to end.

    Keep working in reinforced stitch pattern and at the same time decrease for heel turn:

    Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 10 sts, skp. Turn work.

    Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p6, p2tog. Turn work.

    Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 9 sts, skp. Turn work.

    Keep working these decreases on each side of the 8 centre sts until you have only the 8 centre sts left. Then, distribute the heel flap sts onto two needles, 4 sts on each.

    Next, with the aid of needle 5 pick up 12 sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the heel flap and needle II and knit them through back loop onto the left heel flap needle. Knit the sts on needle II and needle III. Next, pick up 1 st between needle III and the heel flap + 12 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit them through back loop with the aid of the right heel flap needle. Knit the first 4 sts of the heel flap.

    Start following Chart III at row 1 with all 60 sts and working in the round. Keep repeating the 2 stitch pattern. Work rows 1–18 and at the same time decrease for the gusset:

    Round 1: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.

    Round 2: Work to end.

    Repeat these 2 rows until you have 12 sts on each needle (= 48 sts).

    Continue following Chart III at row 19: work the 2 stitch pattern repeat for 7 times (14 sts), work the 20 stitch pattern repeat once and work the 2 stitch pattern repeat for 7 times (14 sts). Work rows 20–30. Then, work rows 31–42 and keep repeating the 2 stitch pattern.

    Work row 43 and at the same time start decreasing for the toe:

    Decrease round 1: *Work 4 sts, k2tog, work 4 sts, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end = 40 sts.

    Work rows 44–47.

    Change to yarn A and decrease in the following way:

    Decrease round 2: *K3, k2tog, k3, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end = 32 sts.

    Knit 3 rounds.

    Decrease round 3: *K2, k2tog, k2, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end = 24 sts.

    Knit 2 rounds.

    Decrease round 4: *K1, k2tog, k1, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end =16 sts.

    Knit 1 round.

    Decrease round 5: *K2tog, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end = 8 sts.

    Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight.

    Make another sock to match.

    Finishing

    Weave in ends. Steam block gently.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Kengän koko noin 38

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    Textured stitch pattern in the round
    Follow the chart and written instructions.

    Stocking stitch in the round
    All rounds: K to end.

    Colourwork in the round
    Follow the chart and written instructions working in patterned stocking stitch.

    Tension
    21 sts over stocking stitch or patterned stocking stitch (change to 0.5 mm larger needle size, if necessary) = 10 cm

    Using yarn A cast on 60 sts and distribute the sts onto 4 double pointed needles, 15 sts on each. The beginning of the round will be between needle I and needle IV.

    Start following Chart I at row 1 and work the 4 stitch repeat for 15 times. Work rows 1–4 for a total of 5 times and after that work row 1 once more.

    Next round: K to end and at the same time increase 1 st on each needle = 64 sts.

    Start following Chart II at row 1 and keep repeating the 2 stitch pattern to end. Next, work rows 2–7.

    Continue following Chart II at row 8 and work the 8 stitch repeat for 8 times. Next, work rows 9–39. On rows 21–39 you will be working a 16 stitch pattern repeat for 4 times.

    Row 40: K to end and at the same time decrease 1 st on each needle = 60 sts.

    Work rows 41–42 and keep repeating the 2 stitch pattern repeat.

    Change to yarn A and work rows 43–53. You will be repeating a 15 stitch pattern for 4 times.

    Row 54: K to end and at the same time decrease 1 st on each needle = 56 sts.

    Continue following Chart II at row 55 and keep repeating the 2 stitch pattern to end. Work rows 56–61 and on row 60 decrease 1 st on each needle = 52 sts.

    Work rows 62 – 75 and work the 13 stitch pattern repeat for 4 times.

    Work rows 76–91.

    Start working the heel flap:

    With yarn A knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 26 sts. Leave the rest of the sts on hold for a while. Turn work and start working a reinforced heel flap:

    Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p to end. Turn work.

    Row 2 (RS): *Sl1 wyib, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

    Repeat these 2 rows until you have worked them for 12 times (= 24 rows).

    Next row: P to end.

    Keep working in reinforced stitch pattern and at the same time decrease for heel turn:

    Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 10 sts, skp. Turn work.

    Next alternate decrease row (WS): Sl1, p6, p2tog. Turn work.

    Next alternate decrease row (RS): Sl1, work to last 9 sts, skp. Turn work.

    Keep working these decreases on each side of the 8 centre sts until you have only the 8 centre sts left. Then, distribute the heel flap sts onto two needles, 4 sts on each.

    Next, with the aid of needle 5 pick up 12 sts along the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st between the heel flap and needle II and knit them through back loop onto the left heel flap needle. Knit the sts on needle II and needle III. Next, pick up 1 st between needle III and the heel flap + 12 sts along the right edge of the heel flap and knit them through back loop with the aid of the right heel flap needle. Knit the first 4 sts of the heel flap.

    Start following Chart III at row 1 with all 60 sts and working in the round. Keep repeating the 2 stitch pattern. Work rows 1–18 and at the same time decrease for the gusset:

    Round 1: Work to last 2 sts on needle I, k2tog, work to needle IV, skp, work to end.

    Round 2: Work to end.

    Repeat these 2 rows until you have 12 sts on each needle (= 48 sts).

    Continue following Chart III at row 19: work the 2 stitch pattern repeat for 7 times (14 sts), work the 20 stitch pattern repeat once and work the 2 stitch pattern repeat for 7 times (14 sts). Work rows 20–30. Then, work rows 31–42 and keep repeating the 2 stitch pattern.

    Work row 43 and at the same time start decreasing for the toe:

    Decrease round 1: *Work 4 sts, k2tog, work 4 sts, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end = 40 sts.

    Work rows 44–47.

    Change to yarn A and decrease in the following way:

    Decrease round 2: *K3, k2tog, k3, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end = 32 sts.

    Knit 3 rounds.

    Decrease round 3: *K2, k2tog, k2, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end = 24 sts.

    Knit 2 rounds.

    Decrease round 4: *K1, k2tog, k1, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end =16 sts.

    Knit 1 round.

    Decrease round 5: *K2tog, k2tog*, repeat *-* to end = 8 sts.

    Cut yarn, thread through the stitches and pull tight.

    Make another sock to match.

    Finishing

    Weave in ends. Steam block gently.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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