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Silvia sweater WYS Illustrious Naturals

As low as €1.90

This all-wool sweater in autumn brown features cables over a background of moss stitch, with a twisted ribbing at the cuff and the hem. The sweater is worked in the round from the hem up to the sleeves.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 17
Skill level Intermediate
Silvia sweater WYS Illustrious Naturals
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-4.0 mm
€3.30
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-5.0 mm
€3.30
Novita circular needles 80 cm-4.0 mm
€3.80
Novita circular needles 80 cm-5.0 mm
€3.80
Novita finishing needles
€1.90

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Silvia sweater WYS Illustrious Naturals
Silvia sweater WYS Illustrious Naturals

In stock

€1.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N031917
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS(S)M/L(XL)XXL(3XL)

    Yarn demand
    WYS Illustrious Naturals
    Slate 450(500)550(600)650(700) g

    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) and 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or sizes needed;
    4 mm and 5 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves;
    and a 4 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the neckline S

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Body

    Using the smaller circular needle cast on 248(264)284(304)320(340) sts. Place marker at beginning of round and another at midpoint of round after 124(132)142(152)160(170) sts. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 3 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart (the starting point for each size is marked with an arrow): *work 14(18)11(16)20(13) sts at the right end of the chart, repeat the 24 st pattern 4(4)5(5)5(6) times, work 14(18)11(16)20(13) sts at the left end*. Repeat *-*. Work rows 2-40 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-40.

    When the piece measures approx. 34(35)36(37)39(40) cm and you have last worked an even-numbered row, divide the piece into two: work to last 2(3)3(3)3(3) sts before marker, then removing marker bind off next 4(6)6(6)6(6) sts for an armhole. Work to last 2(3)3(3)3(3) sts, then, removing marker, bind off next 4(6)6(6)6(6) sts for the other armhole. 120(126)136(146)154(164) sts each now on the front and back pieces. Now switch to working flat.

    Back

    Resume the cable pattern. On every other row bind off 2(2)3(3)3(4)x2 sts and 2(3)3(2)3(3)x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 108(112)118(130)136(142) sts.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, bind off the middle 36(36)36(38)38(40) sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. After 2 rows bind off 1x3 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(24)25(26) cm, leave the remaining 33(35)38(43)46(48) sts on hold for the shoulder seams.

    Knit the other shoulder in the same manner, leaving the sts on hold.

    Front

    Work like top back until the armhole measures 15(16)17(18)19(20) cm. Bind off the middle 20(20)20(22)22(24) sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. On every other row bind off 4x2 sts and 3x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(24)25(26) cm, leave the remaining 33(35)38(43)46(48) sts on hold for the shoulder seams.

    Knit the other shoulder in the same manner, leaving the sts on hold.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles cast on 44(46)48(48)50(50) sts. Place marker for beginning of round. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 3 cm.

    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and work seed st in the round until 1 st remains. Keep purling the last st of round.

    When the piece measures 9(8)6(10)8(5) cm, increase 1 st at beginning of round (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work seed st until 1 st remains, increase 1 st, p1. From now on work the increased sts in seed st. Repeat the increases every 2,5(2,5)2,5(2)2(2) cm 11(12)13(15)16(18) more times = 68(72)76(80)84(88) sts.

    When the piece measures 39(40)41(42)42(43) cm, work to last 3 sts of the next round, then bind off the next 6 sts, removing marker. Now work flat. On every other row bind off 5(5)6(6)7(7)x2 sts, 1x3 sts and 1x4 sts at both ends. On the next row bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Shoulder seams: Turn the piece inside out. Move the left shoulder sts back onto the needles and hold the shoulders parallel. Use the three-needle bind-off to join the pieces: purl together the first sts on the needles and slip them off the needles. Work the 2nd pair of sts in the same manner. Pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Continue until you run out of sts. Alternatively you can bind off all sts and then sew the shoulder seam. Work the other shoulder in the same manner.

    Neckline edge: Using the shorter 4 mm circular needle and starting from the right shoulder seam pick up 46(46)46(48)48(48) sts from the back neckline and 48(48)48(50)50(52) sts from the front neckline = 94(94)94(98)98(100) sts. Knit 1 round, then work twisted ribbing in the round for 8 cm. Bind off loosely. Fold the collar once and sew the bind-off edge to the WS.

    Attach the sleeves.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 108(116)124(132)140(148) cm / 42½(45¾)48¾(52)55(58¼) in length 55(57)59(61)64(66) cm / 21 ¾ (22½)23¼(24)25¼(26) in inner sleeve length 39(40)41(42)42(43) cm / 15¼(15¾)16¼(16½)16½(17) in

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Twisted ribbing in the round: *k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-*.
    - Cable pattern: work following the chart and instructions.
    - Seed stitch:
    Row 1: *p1, k1*

    Body

    Using the smaller circular needle cast on 248(264)284(304)320(340) sts. Place marker at beginning of round and another at midpoint of round after 124(132)142(152)160(170) sts. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 3 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart (the starting point for each size is marked with an arrow): *work 14(18)11(16)20(13) sts at the right end of the chart, repeat the 24 st pattern 4(4)5(5)5(6) times, work 14(18)11(16)20(13) sts at the left end*. Repeat *-*. Work rows 2-40 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-40.

    When the piece measures approx. 34(35)36(37)39(40) cm and you have last worked an even-numbered row, divide the piece into two: work to last 2(3)3(3)3(3) sts before marker, then removing marker bind off next 4(6)6(6)6(6) sts for an armhole. Work to last 2(3)3(3)3(3) sts, then, removing marker, bind off next 4(6)6(6)6(6) sts for the other armhole. 120(126)136(146)154(164) sts each now on the front and back pieces. Now switch to working flat.

    Back

    Resume the cable pattern. On every other row bind off 2(2)3(3)3(4)x2 sts and 2(3)3(2)3(3)x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 108(112)118(130)136(142) sts.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm, bind off the middle 36(36)36(38)38(40) sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. After 2 rows bind off 1x3 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(24)25(26) cm, leave the remaining 33(35)38(43)46(48) sts on hold for the shoulder seams.

    Knit the other shoulder in the same manner, leaving the sts on hold.

    Front

    Work like top back until the armhole measures 15(16)17(18)19(20) cm. Bind off the middle 20(20)20(22)22(24) sts for the neckline. Work one shoulder at a time. On every other row bind off 4x2 sts and 3x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(24)25(26) cm, leave the remaining 33(35)38(43)46(48) sts on hold for the shoulder seams.

    Knit the other shoulder in the same manner, leaving the sts on hold.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles cast on 44(46)48(48)50(50) sts. Place marker for beginning of round. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 3 cm.

    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and work seed st in the round until 1 st remains. Keep purling the last st of round.

    When the piece measures 9(8)6(10)8(5) cm, increase 1 st at beginning of round (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work seed st until 1 st remains, increase 1 st, p1. From now on work the increased sts in seed st. Repeat the increases every 2,5(2,5)2,5(2)2(2) cm 11(12)13(15)16(18) more times = 68(72)76(80)84(88) sts.

    When the piece measures 39(40)41(42)42(43) cm, work to last 3 sts of the next round, then bind off the next 6 sts, removing marker. Now work flat. On every other row bind off 5(5)6(6)7(7)x2 sts, 1x3 sts and 1x4 sts at both ends. On the next row bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Shoulder seams: Turn the piece inside out. Move the left shoulder sts back onto the needles and hold the shoulders parallel. Use the three-needle bind-off to join the pieces: purl together the first sts on the needles and slip them off the needles. Work the 2nd pair of sts in the same manner. Pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Continue until you run out of sts. Alternatively you can bind off all sts and then sew the shoulder seam. Work the other shoulder in the same manner.

    Neckline edge: Using the shorter 4 mm circular needle and starting from the right shoulder seam pick up 46(46)46(48)48(48) sts from the back neckline and 48(48)48(50)50(52) sts from the front neckline = 94(94)94(98)98(100) sts. Knit 1 round, then work twisted ribbing in the round for 8 cm. Bind off loosely. Fold the collar once and sew the bind-off edge to the WS.

    Attach the sleeves.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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