Sara top Novita Wool Cotton

As low as €6.96

This top is worked seamlessly from hem to armholes. It's symmetrical, so you can choose whether you want the buttons front or back.
Novita Kesä 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
26
Intermediate
Customize Sara top Novita Wool Cotton

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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N022026
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Wool Cotton
    (010) Off White 200(200)250(300)300(350) g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or size needed to obtain gauge
     
    Other supplies
    5 buttons


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Using the circular needle cast on 169(185)201(217)233(249) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row.
     
    When the piece measures 3 cm, make the first buttonhole on the next RS row: k1, p1, k2tog, yo, work to end. Make 4 more buttonholes at 6(6,5)6,5(7)7(7,5) cm intervals.
     
    Note: When the piece measures 5 cm, finish on a RS row and begin textured pattern:
     
    Row 1: (WS) work 7 sts at both ends in ribbing. Knit all other sts.
     
    Row 2: (RS) k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-* to end of row.
     
    Keep repeating rows 1-2 and be sure to make the buttonholes as instructed.
     
    When the piece measures 29(30)31(32)33(34) cm, on the next RS row work 36(40)42(46)50(54) sts (right front), bind off the next 12(12)16(16)16(16) sts for an armhole, work 36(40)42(46)50(54) sts (right back, including 1 st from the bind-off edge), bind off 1 st (middle back), work 36(40)42(46)50(54) sts (left back, including 1 st from the bind-off edge), bind off the next 12(12)16(16)16(16) sts for the other armhole, work 36(40)42(46)50(54) sts (left front).
     
    The top sections are knitted separately.
     
     
    Top left front
     
    WS: work the first 7 sts in ribbing as established, knit to last 7 sts before armhole, then work ribbing starting with p1. On the next row begin decreases at both ends: work 6 sts in ribbing, place marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work ribbing to last 8 sts, k2tog, place marker, work ribbing to end = 34(38)40(44)48(52) sts. Repeat the decreases every other row 10(12)13(15)17(19) more times = 14 sts.
     
    On the next RS row work ribbing to marker, remove marker, k2tog, remove marker, work ribbing to end of row = 13 sts.
     
    With the remaining 13 sts work ribbing until the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm. Bind off or leave the sts on hold for grafting.
     
     
    Top right front
     
    WS: work the first 7 sts in ribbing starting with p1, knit to last 7 sts at front edge, work ribbing. Then work like top left front.
     
     
    Top right back  
     
    WS: work the first 7 sts in ribbing starting with p1, knit to last 7 sts before armhole, then work ribbing starting with p1. Then work like top left front.
     
     
    Top left back  
     
    WS: work the first 7 sts in ribbing starting with p1, knit to last 7 sts, then work ribbing starting with p1. Then work like top left front.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Sew or graft the shoulder straps together. Securely weave in all ends.
     
    Sew on the buttons.
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 80(88)96(104)112(120) cm / 31½(34¾)37¾(41)44(47¼) in
    side length 29(30)31(32)33(34) cm / 11½(11¾)12¼(12½)13(13½) in
    height of armhole 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm / 6¾(7)7½(7¾)7¾(8¼) in
     


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
    - Textured pattern: Row 1: (WS) knit all sts. Row 2: (RS) *p1, k1*, repeat *-*

    Using the circular needle cast on 169(185)201(217)233(249) sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row.
     
    When the piece measures 3 cm, make the first buttonhole on the next RS row: k1, p1, k2tog, yo, work to end. Make 4 more buttonholes at 6(6,5)6,5(7)7(7,5) cm intervals.
     
    Note: When the piece measures 5 cm, finish on a RS row and begin textured pattern:
     
    Row 1: (WS) work 7 sts at both ends in ribbing. Knit all other sts.
     
    Row 2: (RS) k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-* to end of row.
     
    Keep repeating rows 1-2 and be sure to make the buttonholes as instructed.
     
    When the piece measures 29(30)31(32)33(34) cm, on the next RS row work 36(40)42(46)50(54) sts (right front), bind off the next 12(12)16(16)16(16) sts for an armhole, work 36(40)42(46)50(54) sts (right back, including 1 st from the bind-off edge), bind off 1 st (middle back), work 36(40)42(46)50(54) sts (left back, including 1 st from the bind-off edge), bind off the next 12(12)16(16)16(16) sts for the other armhole, work 36(40)42(46)50(54) sts (left front).
     
    The top sections are knitted separately.
     
     
    Top left front
     
    WS: work the first 7 sts in ribbing as established, knit to last 7 sts before armhole, then work ribbing starting with p1. On the next row begin decreases at both ends: work 6 sts in ribbing, place marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work ribbing to last 8 sts, k2tog, place marker, work ribbing to end = 34(38)40(44)48(52) sts. Repeat the decreases every other row 10(12)13(15)17(19) more times = 14 sts.
     
    On the next RS row work ribbing to marker, remove marker, k2tog, remove marker, work ribbing to end of row = 13 sts.
     
    With the remaining 13 sts work ribbing until the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)20(21) cm. Bind off or leave the sts on hold for grafting.
     
     
    Top right front
     
    WS: work the first 7 sts in ribbing starting with p1, knit to last 7 sts at front edge, work ribbing. Then work like top left front.
     
     
    Top right back  
     
    WS: work the first 7 sts in ribbing starting with p1, knit to last 7 sts before armhole, then work ribbing starting with p1. Then work like top left front.
     
     
    Top left back  
     
    WS: work the first 7 sts in ribbing starting with p1, knit to last 7 sts, then work ribbing starting with p1. Then work like top left front.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Sew or graft the shoulder straps together. Securely weave in all ends.
     
    Sew on the buttons.

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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