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Sandy Beach sweater Novita Baby Wool

Sandy Beach sweater Novita Baby Wool

As low as €0.00

Clean cut and pretty, this simple and elegant sweater is worked bottom up in one piece to the armholes. Stitches are picked up from the armholes for the sleeves.
Magazine Novita Kesäextra 2020 (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 3
Skill level Adventurous beginner

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Sandy Beach sweater Novita Baby Wool
Sandy Beach sweater Novita Baby Wool

In stock

€0.00

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N02X203
    Pattern details
    Size
    XS/S(M)L/XL(XXL)

    Yarn demand
    Novita Baby Wool
    (603) Straw  550(600)650(700) g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (60 cm and 80 cm / 24 in and 32 in) Novita 3½ mm (US 4)
    and 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or sizes needed;
    3½ mm and 4 mm circular needles (40 cm / 16 in) for the neckline


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details
    Body
     
    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller 80 cm needle cast on 268(286)300(320) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work stockinette st in the round for 4 cm. Purl 1 round (fold round).
     
    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round.
     
    When the piece measures 24(25)27(29) cm from the fold, switch to working flat. Work the back piece first.
     
     
    Top back
     
    Work the first 134(143)150(160) sts of the round (= back). Leave the 134(143)150(160) front sts on hold. Turn work.
     
    Work stockinette st flat until the armhole measures 29(30)31(32) cm.
     
    On the next RS row work 48(40)50(50) sts, bind off the next 44(45)46(46) sts for the neckline as follows: work 2 sts and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Bind off the number of sts given and then work stockinette st to end of row.
     
    Leave the right-hand sts on hold and work the left side first. Work the WS row. Turn work. RS: bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge (knit 2 sts, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work to end. Turn work and work the WS row. RS: repeat the decreases as established.
     
    When the armhole measures 31(32)33(34) cm, leave the remaining 41(45)48(53) shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Place the right-hand sts on the needles and work the RS row. Turn work. WS: bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge (work 2 sts, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work to end. Turn work and work the RS row. WS: repeat the decreases as established.
     
    When the armhole measures 31(32)33(34) cm, leave the remaining 41(45)48(53) shoulder sts on hold.         
     
     
    Top front
     
    Place the 134(143)150(160) front sts back on the needles. Work stockinette st flat until the armhole measures 25(26)27(28) cm.
     
    On the next RS row work 48(40)50(50) sts, bind off the next 38(39)40(40) for the neckline, work stockinette st to end of row. Bind off as established. Leave the right-hand sts on hold and work the left side first. Work the WS row.
     
    On RS rows (every other row) work 3 sets of decreases at the neckline edge. First decrease row (3 sts decreased): work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one). Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work one more st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work the WS row.
     
    Second decrease row (2 sts decreased): work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work the WS row.
     
    On the third decrease row work as on the second one.
     
    When the armhole measures 31(32)33(34) cm, leave the remaining 41(45)48(53) shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Place the right-hand sts on the needles and work the RS row.
     
    On WS rows (every other row) work 3 sets of decreases at the neckline edge. First decrease row (3 sts decreased): work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work one more st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work the RS row.
     
    Second decrease row (2 sts decreased): work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work the RS row.
     
    On the third decrease row work as on the second one.
     
    41(45)48(53) shoulder sts remaining.
     
     
    Shoulder seams
     
    Turn the WS out. Place the left back shoulder sts on the needles. Align the shoulders and purl together the first st of each needle. *Purl together the next pair of sts. Pass the right-hand st on the right-hand needle over the left-hand one and drop it off the needle*, repeat *–* until you have bound off all sts. Note: Make sure to work loosely to avoid a too tight shoulder seam.
     
    Work the other shoulder in the same manner.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the larger 60 cm circular needle and starting at the underarm pick up and knit 132(136)140(144) sts from the armhole edge, 66(68)70(72) from both pieces.
     
    Work stockinette st in the round until the sleeve measures 17(18)18(19) cm.
     
    Switch to the smaller needles and purl 1 round (= fold round). Work stockinette st in the round for 4 cm, then bind off loosely.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Neckline edge: Using the larger 40 cm circular needle, begin at the right shoulder seam and pick up and knit 50(52)52(54) sts from the back neckline and 66(68)68(70) sts from the front neckline = 116(120)120(124) sts. Work stockinette st in the round for 2,5 cm. Switch to the smaller circular needle. Purl 1 round (fold round) and then work stockinette st in the round for 2,5 cm. Bind off loosely.
     
    Fold the collar, sleeves and hem and loosely stitch the bind-off edges to the inside.
     
    Steam and shape. Weave in all ends.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 122(130)138(146) cm / 48(51¾)54¼(57½) (loose fitting)
    length 55(57)60(63) cm / 21¾(22½)23½(24¾) in
    inner sleeve length 17(18)18(19) cm / 6¾(7)7(7½) in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Stockinette stitch flat: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
     
    Gauge
    22 sts in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in
     
    Note
     The sweater is knitted in the round from hem to armhole. The top pieces are worked flat separately. The sleeve sts are picked up from the armholes and the sleeves are worked from armhole to cuff.


    Body
     
    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller 80 cm needle cast on 268(286)300(320) sts, place marker for beginning of round and work stockinette st in the round for 4 cm. Purl 1 round (fold round).
     
    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round.
     
    When the piece measures 24(25)27(29) cm from the fold, switch to working flat. Work the back piece first.
     
     
    Top back
     
    Work the first 134(143)150(160) sts of the round (= back). Leave the 134(143)150(160) front sts on hold. Turn work.
     
    Work stockinette st flat until the armhole measures 29(30)31(32) cm.
     
    On the next RS row work 48(40)50(50) sts, bind off the next 44(45)46(46) sts for the neckline as follows: work 2 sts and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Bind off the number of sts given and then work stockinette st to end of row.
     
    Leave the right-hand sts on hold and work the left side first. Work the WS row. Turn work. RS: bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge (knit 2 sts, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work to end. Turn work and work the WS row. RS: repeat the decreases as established.
     
    When the armhole measures 31(32)33(34) cm, leave the remaining 41(45)48(53) shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Place the right-hand sts on the needles and work the RS row. Turn work. WS: bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge (work 2 sts, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work to end. Turn work and work the RS row. WS: repeat the decreases as established.
     
    When the armhole measures 31(32)33(34) cm, leave the remaining 41(45)48(53) shoulder sts on hold.         
     
     
    Top front
     
    Place the 134(143)150(160) front sts back on the needles. Work stockinette st flat until the armhole measures 25(26)27(28) cm.
     
    On the next RS row work 48(40)50(50) sts, bind off the next 38(39)40(40) for the neckline, work stockinette st to end of row. Bind off as established. Leave the right-hand sts on hold and work the left side first. Work the WS row.
     
    On RS rows (every other row) work 3 sets of decreases at the neckline edge. First decrease row (3 sts decreased): work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one). Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work one more st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work the WS row.
     
    Second decrease row (2 sts decreased): work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work the WS row.
     
    On the third decrease row work as on the second one.
     
    When the armhole measures 31(32)33(34) cm, leave the remaining 41(45)48(53) shoulder sts on hold.
     
    Place the right-hand sts on the needles and work the RS row.
     
    On WS rows (every other row) work 3 sets of decreases at the neckline edge. First decrease row (3 sts decreased): work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work one more st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work the RS row.
     
    Second decrease row (2 sts decreased): work 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Work the RS row.
     
    On the third decrease row work as on the second one.
     
    41(45)48(53) shoulder sts remaining.
     
     
    Shoulder seams
     
    Turn the WS out. Place the left back shoulder sts on the needles. Align the shoulders and purl together the first st of each needle. *Purl together the next pair of sts. Pass the right-hand st on the right-hand needle over the left-hand one and drop it off the needle*, repeat *–* until you have bound off all sts. Note: Make sure to work loosely to avoid a too tight shoulder seam.
     
    Work the other shoulder in the same manner.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the larger 60 cm circular needle and starting at the underarm pick up and knit 132(136)140(144) sts from the armhole edge, 66(68)70(72) from both pieces.
     
    Work stockinette st in the round until the sleeve measures 17(18)18(19) cm.
     
    Switch to the smaller needles and purl 1 round (= fold round). Work stockinette st in the round for 4 cm, then bind off loosely.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Neckline edge: Using the larger 40 cm circular needle, begin at the right shoulder seam and pick up and knit 50(52)52(54) sts from the back neckline and 66(68)68(70) sts from the front neckline = 116(120)120(124) sts. Work stockinette st in the round for 2,5 cm. Switch to the smaller circular needle. Purl 1 round (fold round) and then work stockinette st in the round for 2,5 cm. Bind off loosely.
     
    Fold the collar, sleeves and hem and loosely stitch the bind-off edges to the inside.
     
    Steam and shape. Weave in all ends.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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