Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Rowanberry socks Novita Nordic Wool and Nalle
As low as €5.95
The rowanberry motif is stitched onto the finished socks. Knitted from Novita Nordic Wool and Nalle
Novita Talvi 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
5
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N04185
Novita Nalle
As low as
€5.95
Size
womenYarn demand
Demand for the socks:Novita Nalle
(099) black 100 g and
(589) red plum 100 g
Novita Nordic Wool
(554) heather 100 g and
(532) pomegranate 100 g
Demand for the motifs:
Novita Nalle (549) Christmas less than 50 g and
some (690) nutria
Novita Nordic Wool
(397) spruce less than 50 g,
some (590) dark ruby and
(645) squirrel
Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles:Novita 3 mm and 3½ mm or sizes needed
Designer
NovitaUsing the black yarn and two needles (to give the cast-on edge additional stretch ), cast on 80 sts and distribute them onto four needles, 20 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Work stockinette st in the round for 3 rounds.
Next work a round with holes: k1, *k2tog, yo, k3*, repeat *-* 15 times in total, k2tog, yo, k2. Work 1 round with black.
Begin the striping in stockinette st:
*1 round pomegranate, 1 round black*, repeat *-* 5 more times
11 cm pomegranate
*1 round heather, 1 round pomegranate*, repeat *-* 5 more times
14 cm heather
*1 round red plum, 1 round heather*, repeat *-* 5 more times
14 cm red plum
*1 round black, 1 round red plum*, repeat *-* 5 more times
Note: When the piece measures approx. 26 cm, begin the calf decreases. Decrease round: at beginning of needle I k2tog, skp, knit all sts on needles II and III, work needle IV until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 8th round 11 more times. 2 sts decreased on every decrease round, 56 sts on the needles.
After the decrease work in stockinette st until you have finished the striping. Work the instep of the sock with the black Nalle yarn. Redistribute the sts so that there are 14 sts on each needle while keeping the beginning of the round in place.
Then begin the heel flap by knitting the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 28 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st: Row 1 (WS): sl 1, purl to end. Turn work. Row 2: *sl 1, k1*, repeat *-* 13 more times. Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 15 times (=30 rows).
Work 1 more WS row and begin turning the heel. Continue working the reinforced sts as before. Work the RS row on the heel flap until 10 sts remain. Work the skp decrease (= sl 1, k1, psso) and turn work. Sl 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Sl 1, work until 8 sts remain, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing sts on the sides while the middle group remains at 10 sts. When only the centre sts remain, move the sts on the heel flap onto two needles, 5 each. K5.
Using a free needle pick up 14 sts from left edge of heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts tbl onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 14 sts from right edge of heel flap + 1 st from between the needles and knit them tbl onto needle IV.
Continue working in stockinette st with these 68 sts and begin the gusset decreases. At the end of needle I k2tog. At the beginning of needle IV work the skp decrease. Repeat the decreases as before until 14 sts remain on each needle.
Keep working in stockinette st until the sole measures 21 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe. Then begin the toe decreases.
Toe decreases: Work all sts in stockinette st. At the end of needles I and III: k2tog, k1. At the beginning of needles II and IV: k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on each round until 8 sts remain. Break the yarn, pull it through the sts, and securely weave in the ends.
Finishing
Follow the charts to stitch the motif onto the socks using the duplicate stitch technique, chart I for the leg and chart II for the instep. Begin the motif on the instep at 3 rows from the red plum stripe. The left sock is depicted on the charts, so work right sock as the mirror image.
Using the black yarn, crochet two 100-120 cm chains (chain sts) and four shorter ones. Pass the strings through the holes on the cuffs. Attach the shorter strings at approx. 10-15 cm from the ends of the long strings. Using different-coloured yarns make 6 pompoms for each sock, approx. 3½-4 cm in diameter. Attach the pompoms at the ends of the strings and onto the leg.
Finished dimensions
""Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:- Stockinette stitch in the round:
knit all rounds
Gauge:
24 sts in stockinette st = 10 cm
Note:
The rowanberry motif is stitched onto the finished socks. The midpoint of the pattern is marked with an arrow on the chart.
Using the black yarn and two needles (to give the cast-on edge additional stretch ), cast on 80 sts and distribute them onto four needles, 20 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Work stockinette st in the round for 3 rounds.
Next work a round with holes: k1, *k2tog, yo, k3*, repeat *-* 15 times in total, k2tog, yo, k2. Work 1 round with black.
Begin the striping in stockinette st:
*1 round pomegranate, 1 round black*, repeat *-* 5 more times
11 cm pomegranate
*1 round heather, 1 round pomegranate*, repeat *-* 5 more times
14 cm heather
*1 round red plum, 1 round heather*, repeat *-* 5 more times
14 cm red plum
*1 round black, 1 round red plum*, repeat *-* 5 more times
Note: When the piece measures approx. 26 cm, begin the calf decreases. Decrease round: at beginning of needle I k2tog, skp, knit all sts on needles II and III, work needle IV until 3 sts remain, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 8th round 11 more times. 2 sts decreased on every decrease round, 56 sts on the needles.
After the decrease work in stockinette st until you have finished the striping. Work the instep of the sock with the black Nalle yarn. Redistribute the sts so that there are 14 sts on each needle while keeping the beginning of the round in place.
Then begin the heel flap by knitting the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 28 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work and begin the reinforced st: Row 1 (WS): sl 1, purl to end. Turn work. Row 2: *sl 1, k1*, repeat *-* 13 more times. Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 15 times (=30 rows).
Work 1 more WS row and begin turning the heel. Continue working the reinforced sts as before. Work the RS row on the heel flap until 10 sts remain. Work the skp decrease (= sl 1, k1, psso) and turn work. Sl 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Sl 1, work until 8 sts remain, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing sts on the sides while the middle group remains at 10 sts. When only the centre sts remain, move the sts on the heel flap onto two needles, 5 each. K5.
Using a free needle pick up 14 sts from left edge of heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts tbl onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 14 sts from right edge of heel flap + 1 st from between the needles and knit them tbl onto needle IV.
Continue working in stockinette st with these 68 sts and begin the gusset decreases. At the end of needle I k2tog. At the beginning of needle IV work the skp decrease. Repeat the decreases as before until 14 sts remain on each needle.
Keep working in stockinette st until the sole measures 21 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe. Then begin the toe decreases.
Toe decreases: Work all sts in stockinette st. At the end of needles I and III: k2tog, k1. At the beginning of needles II and IV: k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on each round until 8 sts remain. Break the yarn, pull it through the sts, and securely weave in the ends.
Finishing
Follow the charts to stitch the motif onto the socks using the duplicate stitch technique, chart I for the leg and chart II for the instep. Begin the motif on the instep at 3 rows from the red plum stripe. The left sock is depicted on the charts, so work right sock as the mirror image.
Using the black yarn, crochet two 100-120 cm chains (chain sts) and four shorter ones. Pass the strings through the holes on the cuffs. Attach the shorter strings at approx. 10-15 cm from the ends of the long strings. Using different-coloured yarns make 6 pompoms for each sock, approx. 3½-4 cm in diameter. Attach the pompoms at the ends of the strings and onto the leg.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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