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Rosebud baby bodysuit Novita Siro

Rosebud baby bodysuit Novita Siro

As low as €6.90

Sweet baby bodysuit in Novita Siro yarn. Make a babybonnet in Novita Siro yarn to have a loveliest set!
Magazine Novita Kesäextra 2020 (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 23
Skill level Intermediate

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Rosebud baby bodysuit Novita Siro
Rosebud baby bodysuit Novita Siro

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N02X2023
    Pattern details
    Size
    56/62(68/74)80/86 cm

    Yarn demand
    Novita Siro
    (508) Twinflower 100(150)150 g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in) Novita 3–3½ mm (UK 10–11 / US 2½–4) or size needed;
     
    for the sleeves and neckline double-pointed needles 2½–3 mm (UK 11–12 / US 1½–2½) and 3–3½ mm
     
    Other supplies
    3 wooden buttons


    Designer
    Minttu Wikberg

    Details
    Front crotch
     
    Cast on 17(17)19 sts and work garter st for 3 rows. On the next row make buttonholes: k3, yarn over (yo), k2tog through back loop, k3(3)4, yo, k2tog through back loop, k3(3)4, yo, k2tog through back loop, k2. Work garter st for 3 rows.
     
    Work ribbing at both ends and stockinette st with the other sts and begin increases: (RS) k1, p1, k1, increase 1 st (yarn over, on the next row purl it through the back loop), knit to last 3 sts, increase 1 st, k1, p1, k1. Keep working 3 sts at both ends in ribbing and the other sts in stockinette st. Repeat the increases as established on every other row 2(2)1 more time(s) = 23(23)23 sts.
     
    Increase on the WS row as follows: (WS) p1, k1, p1, increase 1 st (yarn over, on the next row knit it through the back loop), purl to last 3 sts, increase 1 st, p1, k1, p1. Repeat the increases at both ends 12(14)17 more times = 49(53)59 sts. After the increases finish on a RS row, break yarn and leave the sts on hold.
     
     
    Back crotch
     
    Cast on 17(17)19 sts and work garter st for 4 cm.
     
    Work ribbing at both ends and stockinette st with the other sts and begin increases: (RS) k1, p1, k1, increase 1 st (yarn over, on the next row purl it through the back loop), knit to last 3 sts, increase 1 st, k1, p1, k1. WS: p1, k1, p1, increase 1 st (yarn over, on the next row knit it through the back loop), purl to last 3 sts, increase 1 st, p1, k1, p1. Repeat the increases at both ends 11(13)17 more times and then on every other row (RS rows) 4(4)2 times = 51(55)61 sts.
     
    When the increases are completed and you have last worked a RS row, cast on 2 sts at the end of row, work the 49(53)59 front crotch sts onto the same circular needle and cast on 2 sts at the end = 104(112)124 sts. Place markers at the edges of the pieces, between the 2 sts you cast on.
     
     
    Body
     
    Work stockinette st in the round and increase at the sides: increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st before side marker, increase 1 st, k1, slip marker, increase 1 st, k1, increase 1 st, work to last st before side marker, increase 1 st, k1, increase 1 st, slip marker. 110(118)130 sts now on the needles, 55(59)65 sts each in the front and back.
     
    On the next round begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart: work the 55(59)65 back sts, work 22(24)27 front sts, work the 11 st pattern, work to end. Work rows 2–12 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–12. Keep working the other sts in stockinette st.
     
    After you have worked in the round for 19(21)24 cm, separate the sts: bind off the first 3(3)4 sts, work to last 3(3)4 sts before side marker, bind off next 6(6)8 sts for an armhole, work to last 3(3)4 sts before side marker, bind off 3(3)4 sts for the other armhole. 49(53)57 sts on the front and back pieces. Break the yarn and leave the sts on hold for the yoke.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the smaller double-pointed needles cast on 36(40)42 sts and distribute them onto four needles. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and work increases: k15(17)17, *increase 1 st (yarn over, on the next round knit it through the back loop), k1*, repeat *–* 5(5)7 more times, work to end = 42(46)50 sts.
     
    Work stockinette st in the round.
     
    When the piece measures 6(6)7 cm, on the next round: work to last 3(3)4 sts, bind off 6(6)8 sts. Break the yarn and leave the other 36(40)42 sts on hold for the yoke.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner but do not break the yarn.
     
     
    Yoke
     
    Join the pieces on the circular needle: work the 36(40)42 sleeve sts, place marker, work the 49(53)57 front sts, place marker, work the 36(40)42 sleeve sts, place marker, work the 49(53)57 back sts (make sure to resume the lace pattern), place marker = 170(186)198 sts. Keep working the lace pattern and work stockinette st with the other sts.
     
    After 2 more rounds begin raglan decreases on both sides of the markers: *k2tog, work to last 2 sts before marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), slip marker*, repeat *–* 3 more times. 8 sts decreased, 162(178)190 sts on the needles. Repeat the decreases as before 3(3)3 more times on every 3rd round and then 7(9)10 times on every 2nd round = 82(82)86 sts.
     
    Note: Switch to the double-pointed needles when you need to.
     
    After you have completed the decreases and the yoke measures approx. 9(10)11(12) cm, switch to the smaller double-pointed needles and work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Sew the underarm seams. Sew the buttons to the back crotch.
     
     
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 48(52)56 cm / 19(20½)22 in
    middle back length from neck to crotch 36,5(40)44 cm / 14¼(15¾)17¼ in
    inner sleeve length 6(6)7 cm / 2¼(2¼)2¾ in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Garter stitch: knit all rows.
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
     -Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
     -Lace pattern: follow the chart and instructions.
     -Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.
     
    Gauge
    23 sts and 31 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in


    Front crotch
     
    Cast on 17(17)19 sts and work garter st for 3 rows. On the next row make buttonholes: k3, yarn over (yo), k2tog through back loop, k3(3)4, yo, k2tog through back loop, k3(3)4, yo, k2tog through back loop, k2. Work garter st for 3 rows.
     
    Work ribbing at both ends and stockinette st with the other sts and begin increases: (RS) k1, p1, k1, increase 1 st (yarn over, on the next row purl it through the back loop), knit to last 3 sts, increase 1 st, k1, p1, k1. Keep working 3 sts at both ends in ribbing and the other sts in stockinette st. Repeat the increases as established on every other row 2(2)1 more time(s) = 23(23)23 sts.
     
    Increase on the WS row as follows: (WS) p1, k1, p1, increase 1 st (yarn over, on the next row knit it through the back loop), purl to last 3 sts, increase 1 st, p1, k1, p1. Repeat the increases at both ends 12(14)17 more times = 49(53)59 sts. After the increases finish on a RS row, break yarn and leave the sts on hold.
     
     
    Back crotch
     
    Cast on 17(17)19 sts and work garter st for 4 cm.
     
    Work ribbing at both ends and stockinette st with the other sts and begin increases: (RS) k1, p1, k1, increase 1 st (yarn over, on the next row purl it through the back loop), knit to last 3 sts, increase 1 st, k1, p1, k1. WS: p1, k1, p1, increase 1 st (yarn over, on the next row knit it through the back loop), purl to last 3 sts, increase 1 st, p1, k1, p1. Repeat the increases at both ends 11(13)17 more times and then on every other row (RS rows) 4(4)2 times = 51(55)61 sts.
     
    When the increases are completed and you have last worked a RS row, cast on 2 sts at the end of row, work the 49(53)59 front crotch sts onto the same circular needle and cast on 2 sts at the end = 104(112)124 sts. Place markers at the edges of the pieces, between the 2 sts you cast on.
     
     
    Body
     
    Work stockinette st in the round and increase at the sides: increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st before side marker, increase 1 st, k1, slip marker, increase 1 st, k1, increase 1 st, work to last st before side marker, increase 1 st, k1, increase 1 st, slip marker. 110(118)130 sts now on the needles, 55(59)65 sts each in the front and back.
     
    On the next round begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart: work the 55(59)65 back sts, work 22(24)27 front sts, work the 11 st pattern, work to end. Work rows 2–12 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–12. Keep working the other sts in stockinette st.
     
    After you have worked in the round for 19(21)24 cm, separate the sts: bind off the first 3(3)4 sts, work to last 3(3)4 sts before side marker, bind off next 6(6)8 sts for an armhole, work to last 3(3)4 sts before side marker, bind off 3(3)4 sts for the other armhole. 49(53)57 sts on the front and back pieces. Break the yarn and leave the sts on hold for the yoke.
     
     
    Sleeves
     
    Using the smaller double-pointed needles cast on 36(40)42 sts and distribute them onto four needles. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm.
     
    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles and work increases: k15(17)17, *increase 1 st (yarn over, on the next round knit it through the back loop), k1*, repeat *–* 5(5)7 more times, work to end = 42(46)50 sts.
     
    Work stockinette st in the round.
     
    When the piece measures 6(6)7 cm, on the next round: work to last 3(3)4 sts, bind off 6(6)8 sts. Break the yarn and leave the other 36(40)42 sts on hold for the yoke.
     
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner but do not break the yarn.
     
     
    Yoke
     
    Join the pieces on the circular needle: work the 36(40)42 sleeve sts, place marker, work the 49(53)57 front sts, place marker, work the 36(40)42 sleeve sts, place marker, work the 49(53)57 back sts (make sure to resume the lace pattern), place marker = 170(186)198 sts. Keep working the lace pattern and work stockinette st with the other sts.
     
    After 2 more rounds begin raglan decreases on both sides of the markers: *k2tog, work to last 2 sts before marker, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), slip marker*, repeat *–* 3 more times. 8 sts decreased, 162(178)190 sts on the needles. Repeat the decreases as before 3(3)3 more times on every 3rd round and then 7(9)10 times on every 2nd round = 82(82)86 sts.
     
    Note: Switch to the double-pointed needles when you need to.
     
    After you have completed the decreases and the yoke measures approx. 9(10)11(12) cm, switch to the smaller double-pointed needles and work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
     
    Sew the underarm seams. Sew the buttons to the back crotch.
     
     

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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