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Ribbed socks Novita Nalle

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The contrasting colours add a playful touch to these simple ribbed socks. Knitted from Novita Nalle.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2018 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 6
Skill level Beginner
- +

 

Availability:In stock
SKU N03186
Pattern details
Size
30(38)46

Yarn demand
Novita Nalle
(061) Linen 100(100)150 g,
(539) Azalea and
(324) Glacier, less than 50 g each

Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles:
Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2 ½) or
size needed to obtain gauge

Designer
Susanna Mertsalmi

Details

Using the glacier-coloured yarn, cast on 48(56)64 sts and distribute them onto four needles, 12(14)16 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Begin working ribbing in the round with p2(k2, p2)p2. *K2, p2*, repeat *-* to end of round.

When the cuff measures 6 cm, switch to the linen-coloured yarn. Work ribbing until the leg measures 20 cm.

Move 2 sts from the beginning of needle IV onto needle III. Switch to the azalea yarn and begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 22(26)30 sts. Leave the other sts on hold.

Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern:

Row 1: slip 1, purl to end of row. Turn work.

Row 2: *slip 1, k1*, repeat *-* 10(12)14 more times.

Work rows 1-2 a total of 11(13)15 times = 22(26)30 rows.

Work the WS row once more. Turning the heel: keep working the reinforced st pattern as before. Work the right end of the heel flap until 8(9)10 sts remain at the other end. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Slip 1, p6(8)10, p2tog. Turn work. Slip 1, keep working until 7(8)9 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides while the middle group remains at 8(10)12 sts. When only the centre sts remain, distribute the heel flap sts onto two needles, 4(5)6 sts each.

Switch to linen and using a free needle pick up 11(13)15 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. Keep working the sts on needles II and III in ribbing. Pick up 11(13)15 sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles and knit them through the back loop onto needle IV. 58(68)78 sts on the needles.

Continue working needles II and III in ribbing and needles I and IV in stockinette st and work the gusset decreases: At the end of needle I: k2tog. At the beginning of needle IV: work the skp decrease (=slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, and pass the slipped stitch over). Work 1 round without decreases, work the decrease round as before, 2 rounds without decreases, decrease round, 3 rounds, etc. Continue in this manner until 48(56)64 sts remain.

When the sole measures approx. 14(18)24 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe, move 1 st from needle III onto needle II and switch to glacier.

Begin the toe decreases first on needles II and III: at the beginning of needle II k1, skp, and at the end of needle III k2tog, k1. Work 1 round without decreases. Repeat the decreases on needles II and III. 11(13)15 sts on each needle. Work 1 round without decreases. Continue the decreases on all needles: at the end of needles I and III: k2tog, k1, and at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 5(6)7 sts remain on each needle. Work the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain in total.

Break the yarn, pass it through the remaining sts and securely weave in the ends.

Pattern instructions
Finished dimensions
vartalon ympärys 86(94)102(110)120 cm
neuleen pituus 58(60)62(64)66 cm
hihan sisäpituus 47(48)49(49)50 cm

Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns:
- Ribbing in the round:
*k2, p2*

Using the glacier-coloured yarn, cast on 48(56)64 sts and distribute them onto four needles, 12(14)16 sts each. The beginning of the round is between needles I and IV. Begin working ribbing in the round with p2(k2, p2)p2. *K2, p2*, repeat *-* to end of round.

When the cuff measures 6 cm, switch to the linen-coloured yarn. Work ribbing until the leg measures 20 cm.

Move 2 sts from the beginning of needle IV onto needle III. Switch to the azalea yarn and begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 22(26)30 sts. Leave the other sts on hold.

Turn work and begin the reinforced st pattern:

Row 1: slip 1, purl to end of row. Turn work.

Row 2: *slip 1, k1*, repeat *-* 10(12)14 more times.

Work rows 1-2 a total of 11(13)15 times = 22(26)30 rows.

Work the WS row once more. Turning the heel: keep working the reinforced st pattern as before. Work the right end of the heel flap until 8(9)10 sts remain at the other end. Work the skp decrease (= slip 1 knitwise, knit 1 and pass the slipped st over) and turn work. Slip 1, p6(8)10, p2tog. Turn work. Slip 1, keep working until 7(8)9 sts remain, skp. Continue in the same manner, decreasing sts on the sides while the middle group remains at 8(10)12 sts. When only the centre sts remain, distribute the heel flap sts onto two needles, 4(5)6 sts each.

Switch to linen and using a free needle pick up 11(13)15 sts from the left edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. Keep working the sts on needles II and III in ribbing. Pick up 11(13)15 sts from the right edge of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles and knit them through the back loop onto needle IV. 58(68)78 sts on the needles.

Continue working needles II and III in ribbing and needles I and IV in stockinette st and work the gusset decreases: At the end of needle I: k2tog. At the beginning of needle IV: work the skp decrease (=slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, and pass the slipped stitch over). Work 1 round without decreases, work the decrease round as before, 2 rounds without decreases, decrease round, 3 rounds, etc. Continue in this manner until 48(56)64 sts remain.

When the sole measures approx. 14(18)24 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe, move 1 st from needle III onto needle II and switch to glacier.

Begin the toe decreases first on needles II and III: at the beginning of needle II k1, skp, and at the end of needle III k2tog, k1. Work 1 round without decreases. Repeat the decreases on needles II and III. 11(13)15 sts on each needle. Work 1 round without decreases. Continue the decreases on all needles: at the end of needles I and III: k2tog, k1, and at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 5(6)7 sts remain on each needle. Work the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain in total.

Break the yarn, pass it through the remaining sts and securely weave in the ends.


Skill levels

Beginner

Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

Technique

Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

Patterns

All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

Adventurous beginner

Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

Technique

Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

Patterns

Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

Intermediate

So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

Technique

In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

Patterns

Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

Advanced

Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

Technique

On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

Patterns

Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

Gauge & Swatching

Gauge and Swatching

Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

Adjusting gauge

If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

Size charts

Find size guides for your knitting projects

With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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