Reindeer sweater for dogs Novita Nordic Wool

As low as €6.96

Knitted from 100 % wool yarn, this Dog Sweater from Novita Nordic Wool will keep your furry friend warm and cosy. The colourwork pattern is worked in intarsia, with the red nose and the eyes embroidered on the pattern afterwards.
Novita Talvi 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
48
Intermediate
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    N041948
    Size
    XS(S)M(L)XL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nordic Wool
    (397) Spruce 150(150)200(200)250 g,
    (060) Sand <50 g,
    (010) Off White <50 g
    and some (549) Christmas and (099) Black

    Needles and other supplies
    Needles Novita 3½-4 mm (UK 8-9½ / US 4-6) or size needed to obtain gauge

    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Back

    Using Spruce cast on 40(48)66(88)104 sts. Work 3 rows in garter st.

    On the next RS row begin increases: k3, increase 1 st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), knit to last 3 sts, increase 1 st, k3. On the WS k3 at both ends and purl all other sts. Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st and the other sts in stockinette st. Repeat the increases on the RS rows 5 more times = 52(60)78(100)116 sts. After the increases keep working 3 sts at the ends in garter st and the other sts in stockinette st.

    When the piece measures 7(10)11(13)16 cm, begin the intarsia pattern on row 1 of the chart. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow, use that to determine the starting point. Work rows 2-39, then use Spruce for the rest of the piece.

    Note: When the piece measures 7(11)13(16)19 cm (female) or 12(16)18(21)24 cm (male), place 1st markers at both ends.

    When the piece measures 17(22)25(30)34 cm, place 2nd markers at both ends.

    When the piece measures 25(32)36(41)46 cm, place 3rd markers at both ends and begin decreases on the next RS row: k3, k2tog, work to last 5 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k3. Repeat the decreases every 2nd row 3(3)5(7)8 more times = 44(52)66(84)98 sts.

    Begin ribbing with k2 and evenly decrease 6(6)8(10)12 sts = 38(46)58(74)86 sts.

    When the piece measures 37(45)50(56)62 cm, bind off in pattern.

    Belly

    Using Spruce cast on 23(23)26(26)29 sts, place 1st markers at both ends, and begin ribbing on the WS: p2, *k1, p2*, repeat *-* to end of row.

    After 3 rows increase 7(7)8(8)9 sts on the next row (RS): k2, *purl the purl st through the front and back loop, k2*, repeat *-* to end of row. 30(30)34(34)38 sts now on the needles.

    When the piece measures 5(6)7(9)10 cm (male) or 10(11)12(14)15 cm (female), place 2nd markers at both ends.

    When the piece measures 13(16)18(20)22 cm (male) or 18(21)23(25)27 cm (female), place 3rd markers at both ends.

    When the piece measures 25(29)32(35)38 cm (male) or 30(34)37(40)43 cm (female), bind off in ribbing.

    Finishing

    Joining the pieces: Align the markers and sew the pieces together, with leg openings between the 2nd and 3rd markers.

    If needed attach some rubber cord to the bottom edge of the belly piece.

    Embroider the reindeer's eyes and nose following the chart.

    Finished dimensions
    Dog measurements chest circumference approx. 34-40(42-48)50-56(58-64)66-72 cm / 13½-15¾(16½-19)19¾-22(22¾-25¼)26-28¼ in (measured at the widest point, behind the front legs) back length approx. 30(38)44(50)56 cm / 11¾(15)17¼(19¾)22 in (measured from withers to base of tail, with the dog in standing position)

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
    - Ribbing: *k2, p2*, repeat *-*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.
    - Garter stitch: knit all rows.
    - Intarsia: work stockinette stitch following the chart and instructions. In intarsia

    Back

    Using Spruce cast on 40(48)66(88)104 sts. Work 3 rows in garter st.

    On the next RS row begin increases: k3, increase 1 st (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), knit to last 3 sts, increase 1 st, k3. On the WS k3 at both ends and purl all other sts. Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st and the other sts in stockinette st. Repeat the increases on the RS rows 5 more times = 52(60)78(100)116 sts. After the increases keep working 3 sts at the ends in garter st and the other sts in stockinette st.

    When the piece measures 7(10)11(13)16 cm, begin the intarsia pattern on row 1 of the chart. The midpoint of the piece is marked with an arrow, use that to determine the starting point. Work rows 2-39, then use Spruce for the rest of the piece.

    Note: When the piece measures 7(11)13(16)19 cm (female) or 12(16)18(21)24 cm (male), place 1st markers at both ends.

    When the piece measures 17(22)25(30)34 cm, place 2nd markers at both ends.

    When the piece measures 25(32)36(41)46 cm, place 3rd markers at both ends and begin decreases on the next RS row: k3, k2tog, work to last 5 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k3. Repeat the decreases every 2nd row 3(3)5(7)8 more times = 44(52)66(84)98 sts.

    Begin ribbing with k2 and evenly decrease 6(6)8(10)12 sts = 38(46)58(74)86 sts.

    When the piece measures 37(45)50(56)62 cm, bind off in pattern.

    Belly

    Using Spruce cast on 23(23)26(26)29 sts, place 1st markers at both ends, and begin ribbing on the WS: p2, *k1, p2*, repeat *-* to end of row.

    After 3 rows increase 7(7)8(8)9 sts on the next row (RS): k2, *purl the purl st through the front and back loop, k2*, repeat *-* to end of row. 30(30)34(34)38 sts now on the needles.

    When the piece measures 5(6)7(9)10 cm (male) or 10(11)12(14)15 cm (female), place 2nd markers at both ends.

    When the piece measures 13(16)18(20)22 cm (male) or 18(21)23(25)27 cm (female), place 3rd markers at both ends.

    When the piece measures 25(29)32(35)38 cm (male) or 30(34)37(40)43 cm (female), bind off in ribbing.

    Finishing

    Joining the pieces: Align the markers and sew the pieces together, with leg openings between the 2nd and 3rd markers.

    If needed attach some rubber cord to the bottom edge of the belly piece.

    Embroider the reindeer's eyes and nose following the chart.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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