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Rapujuhlat socks Novita Nalle and Muumitalo

Rapujuhlat socks Novita Nalle and Muumitalo

As low as €6.90

Crayfish season starts in late July in Finland. So a pair of crayfish party-themed socks is, really, nothing more than appropriate, complete with details such as embroidered eyes.
Magazine Novita Kesäextra 2020 (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 31
Skill level Intermediate
Rapujuhlat socks Novita Nalle and Muumitalo
€5.90
€7.50
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€7.50
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
Novita double ended 20 cm birch -3.0 mm
€6.90

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Rapujuhlat socks Novita Nalle and Muumitalo
Rapujuhlat socks Novita Nalle and Muumitalo

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N02X2031
    Pattern details
    Size
    38/42

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nalle
    (061) Linen <150(150) g and <50 g
    (549) Christmas <50(<50) g
    (044) Graphite <50(<50) g
    (160) Jeans <50(<50) g
    (285) Saffron <50(<50) g and
     
    Novita Muumitalo
    (381) Snufkin <50(50) g


    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles
    Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or size needed to obtain gauge


    Designer
    Minna Metsänen

    Details
    Using Linen cast on 80(88) sts and divide them onto four needles, 20(22) sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then knit 1 round.
     
    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I(II). Work the 80(88) st pattern. Work rows 2–75 of the chart. On rows 22, 27, 32, 37, 42, 47, 52, 57 (and, on size 42 only, rows 62 and 67), decrease 2 sts: at the beginning of round skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), at the end of round k2tog. 64(68) sts now on the needles. Distribute the sts onto four needles, 16(17) sts each. Knit 1 round using Linen.
     
    Begin heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 32(34) sts. Turn work and leave the other sts on hold. Using Linen begin reinforced pattern:
     
    Row 1: Purl the WS row. Turn work.
     
    Row 2: *slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *–* 14 more times.
     
    Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.
     
    Work rows 2–3 a total of 14(15) times [= 28(30) rows].
     
    Begin turning the heel. Continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work until 12(13) sts remain at the left end. Skp, turn work. Slip 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 11(12) sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 5 sts each. Knit the 5 right-hand sts. The beginning of round is now here.
     
    Using needle I pick up 14(15) sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Using Linen knit the 5 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 14(15) sts from the right end + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle IV and knit the 5 flap sts.
     
    With these 72(76) sts resume the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II and begin gusset decreases on needles I and IV following the chart. Work rows 2–13 of the chart. 2 sts decreased on rows 2, 4, 6 and 8. 64(68) sts now on the needles, 16(17) sts each.
     
    Resume the colourwork pattern on row 14 of chart III(IV). Work rows 15–40(44) of the chart or work until the sole measures 19(22) cm. Using Linen knit 1 round and at the same time evenly decrease 2 sts on each needle = 56(60) sts, 14(15) sts per needle.
     
    Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every other round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round. When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.
     
    Knit the other sock in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Embroider the eyes with Graphite using French knots. With 2 plies of Christmas, embroider the antennae using back stitches.
     
    Lightly steam the socks.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
    - Colourwork in the round: work stockinette st following the chart and instructions.
     
    Note:
    Twist the yarns around each other on the WS (at different points on back-to-back rows) to avoid floats longer than 5 sts.
     
    Gauge
    25 sts in colourwork = 10 cm / 4 in


    Using Linen cast on 80(88) sts and divide them onto four needles, 20(22) sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then knit 1 round.
     
    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I(II). Work the 80(88) st pattern. Work rows 2–75 of the chart. On rows 22, 27, 32, 37, 42, 47, 52, 57 (and, on size 42 only, rows 62 and 67), decrease 2 sts: at the beginning of round skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), at the end of round k2tog. 64(68) sts now on the needles. Distribute the sts onto four needles, 16(17) sts each. Knit 1 round using Linen.
     
    Begin heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 32(34) sts. Turn work and leave the other sts on hold. Using Linen begin reinforced pattern:
     
    Row 1: Purl the WS row. Turn work.
     
    Row 2: *slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *–* 14 more times.
     
    Row 3: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.
     
    Work rows 2–3 a total of 14(15) times [= 28(30) rows].
     
    Begin turning the heel. Continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work until 12(13) sts remain at the left end. Skp, turn work. Slip 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 11(12) sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 5 sts each. Knit the 5 right-hand sts. The beginning of round is now here.
     
    Using needle I pick up 14(15) sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Using Linen knit the 5 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 14(15) sts from the right end + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle IV and knit the 5 flap sts.
     
    With these 72(76) sts resume the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II and begin gusset decreases on needles I and IV following the chart. Work rows 2–13 of the chart. 2 sts decreased on rows 2, 4, 6 and 8. 64(68) sts now on the needles, 16(17) sts each.
     
    Resume the colourwork pattern on row 14 of chart III(IV). Work rows 15–40(44) of the chart or work until the sole measures 19(22) cm. Using Linen knit 1 round and at the same time evenly decrease 2 sts on each needle = 56(60) sts, 14(15) sts per needle.
     
    Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Decrease as established on every other round until 6 sts remain on each needle. Then work the decreases on every round. When 8 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.
     
    Knit the other sock in the same manner.
     
     
    Finishing
     
    Embroider the eyes with Graphite using French knots. With 2 plies of Christmas, embroider the antennae using back stitches.
     
    Lightly steam the socks.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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