Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Panther socks Novita Venla
As low as €5.95
Wild and irregular, the spots on these panther socks present a fun challenge for any knitter. Use duplicate stitches to complete the spots with a third colour.
Novita Syksy 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
21
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N031921
Novita Venla
As low as
€6.96
Size
Yksi kokoYarn demand
Novita Venla(543) Tomato <100 g,
(499) Charcoal 100 g and
some (606) Sandy Beach
Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needlesNovita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or size needed to obtain gauge
Designer
Sari NordlundUsing Charcoal cast on 64 sts and divide them over four needles, 16 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Work the 64 st pattern. Note: Work the Sandy Beach boxes in the chart using Tomato. Use Sandy Beach to embroider duplicate sts on the finished piece. Work rows 2-60 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-60. Make sure to loosen the floats as you work to avoid a too tight fabric.
When the leg measures approx. 15 cm begin the hourglass heel on needles III and IV.
Follow the chart to end of needle II. Make a note of the row you finished on, as you'll resume from there after the heel. Break off Tomato. Using Charcoal, knit all sts on needles III and IV until 1 st remains on needle IV. Begin short rows: turn work and yo. Slip 1 purlwise, purl all sts until 1 st remains on needle III, turn work and yo. *RS: knit all sts until 1 st remains before next yo, turn work and yo. WS: purl all sts until 1 st remains before next yo, turn work and yo.* Repeat *-* until 12 sts remain between the yarn overs and you have last worked the WS row.
Begin long rows: RS: work to next yo, knit together the yo and the st next to it, turn work and yo (there are now two yarn overs next to each other). WS: work to next yo, purl together the yo and the st next to it using ssp [= slip the yo and next st knitwise one at a time from the left needle to the right needle (insert the needle from left to right), then return them to the left needle keeping them twisted. Purl the sts together through the back loop.], turn work and yo (two yarn overs next to each other).
RS: work to next yo, knit together both yos and the st next to them, turn work and yo (two yarn overs next to each other). WS: work to next yo, purl together both yos and the st next to them using sssp (= work like ssp, slip all three sts and purl them together through the back loop), turn work and yo (two yarn overs next to each other).* Repeat *-* until 1 st and 2 yarn overs remain on both sides of the heel.
RS: work to next yo, knit together both yos and the st next to them. Join Tomato and resume the colourwork pattern on needles I and II. Note: To avoid a gap, you can pick up an extra st from between needles IV and I and knit it together with the first st on needle I. Also pick up a st from between needles II and III and knit it together with the last st on needle II. On needle III, knit the first st together with the two yarn overs following the chart. Follow the chart on needles III and IV.
Now follow the chart with all sts until the foot measures approx. 20 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe. Break off Tomato. Work stockinette st using Charcoal for the rest of the piece.
Knit 1 round and then begin toe decreases: at the beginning of needles I and III, k1, k2tog; at the end of needles II and IV, skp, k1. Decrease as established on every 2nd round 9 more times until 6 sts remain on each needle. Redistribute the sts onto two needles, 12 sts each on instep and sole. Graft the sts together.
Knit the other sock in the same manner. If you want to avoid a symmetrical pair of socks, work the heel on needles I and II.
Finishing
If you want, use Sandy Beach to embroider duplicate stitches following the chart. Securely weave in.
Lightly steam the socks.
Finished dimensions
Shoe size 38/39 (EUR)Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patternsRibbing in the round: *k1, p1*
Using Charcoal cast on 64 sts and divide them over four needles, 16 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Work the 64 st pattern. Note: Work the Sandy Beach boxes in the chart using Tomato. Use Sandy Beach to embroider duplicate sts on the finished piece. Work rows 2-60 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-60. Make sure to loosen the floats as you work to avoid a too tight fabric.
When the leg measures approx. 15 cm begin the hourglass heel on needles III and IV.
Follow the chart to end of needle II. Make a note of the row you finished on, as you'll resume from there after the heel. Break off Tomato. Using Charcoal, knit all sts on needles III and IV until 1 st remains on needle IV. Begin short rows: turn work and yo. Slip 1 purlwise, purl all sts until 1 st remains on needle III, turn work and yo. *RS: knit all sts until 1 st remains before next yo, turn work and yo. WS: purl all sts until 1 st remains before next yo, turn work and yo.* Repeat *-* until 12 sts remain between the yarn overs and you have last worked the WS row.
Begin long rows: RS: work to next yo, knit together the yo and the st next to it, turn work and yo (there are now two yarn overs next to each other). WS: work to next yo, purl together the yo and the st next to it using ssp [= slip the yo and next st knitwise one at a time from the left needle to the right needle (insert the needle from left to right), then return them to the left needle keeping them twisted. Purl the sts together through the back loop.], turn work and yo (two yarn overs next to each other).
RS: work to next yo, knit together both yos and the st next to them, turn work and yo (two yarn overs next to each other). WS: work to next yo, purl together both yos and the st next to them using sssp (= work like ssp, slip all three sts and purl them together through the back loop), turn work and yo (two yarn overs next to each other).* Repeat *-* until 1 st and 2 yarn overs remain on both sides of the heel.
RS: work to next yo, knit together both yos and the st next to them. Join Tomato and resume the colourwork pattern on needles I and II. Note: To avoid a gap, you can pick up an extra st from between needles IV and I and knit it together with the first st on needle I. Also pick up a st from between needles II and III and knit it together with the last st on needle II. On needle III, knit the first st together with the two yarn overs following the chart. Follow the chart on needles III and IV.
Now follow the chart with all sts until the foot measures approx. 20 cm or the sock covers your fifth toe. Break off Tomato. Work stockinette st using Charcoal for the rest of the piece.
Knit 1 round and then begin toe decreases: at the beginning of needles I and III, k1, k2tog; at the end of needles II and IV, skp, k1. Decrease as established on every 2nd round 9 more times until 6 sts remain on each needle. Redistribute the sts onto two needles, 12 sts each on instep and sole. Graft the sts together.
Knit the other sock in the same manner. If you want to avoid a symmetrical pair of socks, work the heel on needles I and II.
Finishing
If you want, use Sandy Beach to embroider duplicate stitches following the chart. Securely weave in.
Lightly steam the socks.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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