Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Pansy socks Novita Venla
As low as €6.96
Spring is just a few weeks away - it's time to cast on (toe up) for these lovely socks with their delicate pattern of pansies.
Novita Kevät 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
32
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N012032
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Size
one sizeYarn demand
Novita Venla(764) Lupine <100 g,
(010) Off White <50 g
and some (285) Saffron
Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles Novita 2½ mm (US 1½);Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US C-2 or D-3) crochet hook
Designer
Minna MetsänenThe sock is knitted from the toe up. Using Lupine chain 12 for a beginning chain. Using the hook pick up 12 sts from one edge of the chain onto a double-pointed needle and another 12 sts from the other edge onto another needle = 24 sts. Distribute the sts onto four double-pointed needles, 6 sts each. Work stockinette st in the round. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV, at the side of the sock.
Knit 1 round and begin increases. At the beginning of needles I and III and at the end of needles II and IV, increase 1 st inside the edge sts with a yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs through the back loop. Repeat the increases on every other round until there are 17 sts on each needle. Work 1 more increase round but work the increases on needles I and II only = 70 sts. Knit 1 round. Join Off White and knit 1 round.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 14 st pattern 5 times. Work rows 2-31 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 2-31.
When the sock measures 18 cm, begin the hourglass heel using Lupine. Make a note of where you are on the colourwork chart. Knit the sts on needles I and II. Turn work. Slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous row come over the needle = double stitch. Purl to end of needle IV, turn work, double stitch. Note: Slip 1 purlwise at the beginning of each row.
Keep working short rows, turning the work before the previous double stitch. When there are 14 regular sts in the middle and 11 double sts at both ends, begin long rows. Work the middle 14 sts and 1 double st (work the loops of the double st together to form one st). Turn work. *Slip 1. Work until you reach the double st at the other end. Work the loops of the double st together to form one st and turn work.* Repeat *-* until all sts have been worked.
Resume the colourwork pattern with all sts. If needed pick up additional sts from between the needles on both sides of the heel to prevent holes. Decrease the sts on the next round.
When you have repeated rows 2-31 a total of 3 times (with 3 whole rows of pansies at the leg), knit 1 round using Off White. Knit another round, evenly decreasing 6 sts = 64 sts. Redistribute the sts so that there are 16 sts on each needle.
Knit 1 round using Lupine, then work twisted ribbing for 8 rounds. Bind off.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Lightly steam the socks.
Finished dimensions
Shoe size 38 (EUR)Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns- Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
- Colourwork in the round: work stockinette st following the chart.
- Twisted ribbing: *k1 through back loop, p1*
The sock is knitted from the toe up. Using Lupine chain 12 for a beginning chain. Using the hook pick up 12 sts from one edge of the chain onto a double-pointed needle and another 12 sts from the other edge onto another needle = 24 sts. Distribute the sts onto four double-pointed needles, 6 sts each. Work stockinette st in the round. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV, at the side of the sock.
Knit 1 round and begin increases. At the beginning of needles I and III and at the end of needles II and IV, increase 1 st inside the edge sts with a yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs through the back loop. Repeat the increases on every other round until there are 17 sts on each needle. Work 1 more increase round but work the increases on needles I and II only = 70 sts. Knit 1 round. Join Off White and knit 1 round.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 14 st pattern 5 times. Work rows 2-31 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 2-31.
When the sock measures 18 cm, begin the hourglass heel using Lupine. Make a note of where you are on the colourwork chart. Knit the sts on needles I and II. Turn work. Slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous row come over the needle = double stitch. Purl to end of needle IV, turn work, double stitch. Note: Slip 1 purlwise at the beginning of each row.
Keep working short rows, turning the work before the previous double stitch. When there are 14 regular sts in the middle and 11 double sts at both ends, begin long rows. Work the middle 14 sts and 1 double st (work the loops of the double st together to form one st). Turn work. *Slip 1. Work until you reach the double st at the other end. Work the loops of the double st together to form one st and turn work.* Repeat *-* until all sts have been worked.
Resume the colourwork pattern with all sts. If needed pick up additional sts from between the needles on both sides of the heel to prevent holes. Decrease the sts on the next round.
When you have repeated rows 2-31 a total of 3 times (with 3 whole rows of pansies at the leg), knit 1 round using Off White. Knit another round, evenly decreasing 6 sts = 64 sts. Redistribute the sts so that there are 16 sts on each needle.
Knit 1 round using Lupine, then work twisted ribbing for 8 rounds. Bind off.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Lightly steam the socks.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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