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Oodi socks Novita Venla

Oodi socks Novita Venla

As low as €3.30

These socks are part of a capsule wardrobe designed by Sari Nordlund, comprising nine designs perfectly compatible with each other. Socks have a French heel.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2019 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 7
Skill level Intermediate
Oodi socks Novita Venla
€6.90
Novita double ended pins 20 cm-2.5 mm
€3.30

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Oodi socks Novita Venla
Oodi socks Novita Venla

In stock

€3.30

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N04197
    Pattern details
    Size
    one size, adult

    Yarn demand
    Novita Venla
    (010) Off White 100 g

    Needles and other supplies
    Double-pointed needles Novita 2½ mm (UK 12½ / US 1½) or size needed for gauge;
    cable needle

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Cast on 64 sts and divide them across four needles, 16 sts each. Work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart I. Work the 16 st pattern four times. Work rows 2–16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–16 until the leg measures 18 cm.

    Begin heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 32 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work. WS: slip 1 with yarn in back, p31. Turn work.

    Begin reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *–* to end. Turn work.

    Row 2: slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

    Work rows 1–2 a total of 16 times (= 32 rows).

    Begin French heel:

    Row 1: (RS) slip 1, k17, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Row 3: slip 1 knitwise, k6, skp, k1, turn work.

    Row 4: slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Row 5: slip 1 knitwise, k8, skp, k1, turn work.

    Continue in this manner until all sts have been worked. Turn work. RS: knit the sts. Distribute the remaining sts across two needles.

    Using a free needle pick up 16 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Using the left-hand sole needle knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III follow the cable pattern as established. Using the right-hand sole needle pick up 16 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the heel flap sts. Keep working stockinette st on needles I and IV and the cable pattern on the instep.

    At the same time begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round until 16 sts remain on needles I and IV. Work until the foot measures approx. 20 cm or until the sock covers your fifth toe.

    Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round until 24 sts remain.

    Knit the sts on needle I. Divide the sts onto two needles, 12 sts sole + 12 sts instep.

    Graft the sts together: align the needles, with the right sides facing each other and the working yarn coming from the sole. Insert the needle and yarn purlwise in the st on the front needle and then knitwise in the st on the back needle. Pull tightly.

    1. Insert the needle knitwise through the st on the front needle (same st as before), slip the st.

    2. Insert the needle purlwise through the next st on the front needle. Draw the yarn through, leaving the st on the needle.

    3. Insert the needle purlwise through the st on the back needle (same st as before), slip the st.

    4. Insert the needle knitwise through the next st on the back needle. Draw the yarn through, leaving the st on the needle.

    Keep repeating 1–4 until 1 st remains. Insert the needle and yarn through the st to the WS and weave in the end.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner. Work the cable pattern following chart II.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Shoe size 38/39 (EUR)

    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns
    - Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2*, repeat *–*.
    - Cable pattern in the round: follow the chart and instructions.
    - Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.

    Gauge
    32 sts and 38 rows in stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in



    Cast on 64 sts and divide them across four needles, 16 sts each. Work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm.

    Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of chart I. Work the 16 st pattern four times. Work rows 2–16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–16 until the leg measures 18 cm.

    Begin heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 32 sts. Leave the other sts on hold. Turn work. WS: slip 1 with yarn in back, p31. Turn work.

    Begin reinforced stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *–* to end. Turn work.

    Row 2: slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

    Work rows 1–2 a total of 16 times (= 32 rows).

    Begin French heel:

    Row 1: (RS) slip 1, k17, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Row 3: slip 1 knitwise, k6, skp, k1, turn work.

    Row 4: slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Row 5: slip 1 knitwise, k8, skp, k1, turn work.

    Continue in this manner until all sts have been worked. Turn work. RS: knit the sts. Distribute the remaining sts across two needles.

    Using a free needle pick up 16 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Using the left-hand sole needle knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III follow the cable pattern as established. Using the right-hand sole needle pick up 16 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the heel flap sts. Keep working stockinette st on needles I and IV and the cable pattern on the instep.

    At the same time begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round until 16 sts remain on needles I and IV. Work until the foot measures approx. 20 cm or until the sock covers your fifth toe.

    Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round until 24 sts remain.

    Knit the sts on needle I. Divide the sts onto two needles, 12 sts sole + 12 sts instep.

    Graft the sts together: align the needles, with the right sides facing each other and the working yarn coming from the sole. Insert the needle and yarn purlwise in the st on the front needle and then knitwise in the st on the back needle. Pull tightly.

    1. Insert the needle knitwise through the st on the front needle (same st as before), slip the st.

    2. Insert the needle purlwise through the next st on the front needle. Draw the yarn through, leaving the st on the needle.

    3. Insert the needle purlwise through the st on the back needle (same st as before), slip the st.

    4. Insert the needle knitwise through the next st on the back needle. Draw the yarn through, leaving the st on the needle.

    Keep repeating 1–4 until 1 st remains. Insert the needle and yarn through the st to the WS and weave in the end.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner. Work the cable pattern following chart II.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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