Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
As low as €6.96
Availability: In stock
Using the longer circular needle cast on 148(160)172(184)200 sts and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Then work stockinette st in the round.
When the piece measures 37(38)39(40)41 cm, divide the sts into two groups: knit the first 74(80)86(92)100 sts (back) and leave the remaining 74(80)86(92)100 sts on hold for the front piece. The top is knitted in two pieces.
Work stockinette st flat with the 74(80)86(92)100 back sts.
When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)21 cm, on the next RS row k27(30)33(36)40, bind off the next 20 sts (= middle sts), knit remaining sts. Bind off as follows: knit 2 sts, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Knit another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Continue in this manner until you have bound off 20 sts.
Work the left side of the neckline first:
Row 1: (WS) purl 27(30)33(36)40.
Row 2: (RS) bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge (knit 2 sts, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, knit another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again), knit the remaining sts.
Work stockinette st until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and bind off the 25(28)31(34)38 shoulder sts.
Right side of the neckline: begin at the neckline edge.
Row 1: (WS) bind off 2 sts, purl remaining sts.
Row 2: (RS) knit 25(28)31(34)38.
Work stockinette st until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and bind off the 25(28)31(34)38 shoulder sts.
Place the 74(80)86(92)100 front sts back onto the needles and work stockinette st flat.
When the armhole measures 10(11)12(13)14 cm, on the next RS row knit 45(48)51(54)58, leave the next 16 sts on hold for the neckline, knit remaining sts.
Work the left side of the neckline first:
Row 1: (WS) purl 29(32)35(38)42.
Row 2: (RS) bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge, knit remaining sts.
Row 3: (WS) purl 27(30)33(36)40.
Row 4: (RS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit remaining sts.
Row 5: (WS) purl 26(29)32(35)39.
Row 6: (RS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit remaining sts.
Work stockinette st until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and bind off the 25(28)31(34)38 shoulder sts.
Right side of the neckline: begin at the neckline edge.
Row 1: (WS) bind off 2 sts at the neckline (purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, purl 1 st, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one), purl remaining sts.
Row 2: (RS) knit 27(30)33(36)40.
Row 3: (WS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, purl remaining sts.
Row 4: (RS) knit 26(29)32(35)39.
Row 5: (WS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, purl remaining sts.
Row 6: (RS) knit 25(28)31(34)38.
Work stockinette st until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and bind off the 25(28)31(34)38 shoulder sts.
Cast on 36(36)38(38)40 sts and divide them across four double-pointed needles. Work ribbing in the round for 7 cm.
On the next round increase 22(24)26(30)30 sts:
Size XS/S: knit 1, *increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), knit 2, increase 1 st, knit 1*, repeat *-* 10 more times, knit 2.
Size M: knit 1, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), *knit 1, increase 1 st, knit 2, increase 1 st*, repeat *-* 10 more times, knit 1, increase 1 st, knit 1.
Size L: knit 1, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), knit 1, increase 1 st, *knit 1, increase 1 st, knit 2, increase 1 st*, repeat *-* 10 more times, knit 1, increase 1 st, knit 1, increase 1 st, knit 1.
Size XL: knit 4, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), *knit 1, increase 1 st*, repeat *-* 27 more times, knit 2, increase 1 st, knit 4.
Size XXL: knit 4, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), knit 2, increase 1 st, *knit 1, increase 1 st*, repeat *-* 25 more times, knit 2, increase 1 st, knit 2, increase 1 st, knit 4.
58(60)64(68)70 sts now on the needles.
Work double seed st in the round. Rounds 1-2: *knit 1, purl 1*, repeat *-* to end of round. Rounds 3-4: *purl 1, knit 1*, repeat *-* to end of round.
When the piece measures 45(46)47(48)48(49) cm, bind off in double seed st: work 2 sts onto the right-hand needle and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand st. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Repeat until 1 st remains. Break the yarn and pull it through the st.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams using a tapestry needle.
Collar: place the 16 sts onto the shorter circular needle and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for 76(76)78(78)80 sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 16 cm, then bind off in pattern.
Fold the collar once and sew the edge to the WS.
Attach the sleeves.
Embroider some flowers onto the sweater using French knots and detached chain stitches (https://www.novitaknits.com/fi/fi/kirjonta).
Stitch patterns
- Ribbing in the round: *knit 1, purl 1*, keep repeating *-*. On the next rounds knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
- Stockinette stitch flat: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.
- Double seed stitch in the round:
Rounds 1-2: *knit 1, purl 1*, repeat *-* to end of round.
Rounds 3-4: *purl 1
Using the longer circular needle cast on 148(160)172(184)200 sts and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Then work stockinette st in the round.
When the piece measures 37(38)39(40)41 cm, divide the sts into two groups: knit the first 74(80)86(92)100 sts (back) and leave the remaining 74(80)86(92)100 sts on hold for the front piece. The top is knitted in two pieces.
Work stockinette st flat with the 74(80)86(92)100 back sts.
When the armhole measures 17(18)19(20)21 cm, on the next RS row k27(30)33(36)40, bind off the next 20 sts (= middle sts), knit remaining sts. Bind off as follows: knit 2 sts, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Knit another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Continue in this manner until you have bound off 20 sts.
Work the left side of the neckline first:
Row 1: (WS) purl 27(30)33(36)40.
Row 2: (RS) bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge (knit 2 sts, then pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, knit another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again), knit the remaining sts.
Work stockinette st until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and bind off the 25(28)31(34)38 shoulder sts.
Right side of the neckline: begin at the neckline edge.
Row 1: (WS) bind off 2 sts, purl remaining sts.
Row 2: (RS) knit 25(28)31(34)38.
Work stockinette st until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and bind off the 25(28)31(34)38 shoulder sts.
Place the 74(80)86(92)100 front sts back onto the needles and work stockinette st flat.
When the armhole measures 10(11)12(13)14 cm, on the next RS row knit 45(48)51(54)58, leave the next 16 sts on hold for the neckline, knit remaining sts.
Work the left side of the neckline first:
Row 1: (WS) purl 29(32)35(38)42.
Row 2: (RS) bind off 2 sts at the neckline edge, knit remaining sts.
Row 3: (WS) purl 27(30)33(36)40.
Row 4: (RS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit remaining sts.
Row 5: (WS) purl 26(29)32(35)39.
Row 6: (RS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, knit remaining sts.
Work stockinette st until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and bind off the 25(28)31(34)38 shoulder sts.
Right side of the neckline: begin at the neckline edge.
Row 1: (WS) bind off 2 sts at the neckline (purl 2 sts, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one, purl 1 st, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one), purl remaining sts.
Row 2: (RS) knit 27(30)33(36)40.
Row 3: (WS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, purl remaining sts.
Row 4: (RS) knit 26(29)32(35)39.
Row 5: (WS) bind off 1 st at the neckline edge, purl remaining sts.
Row 6: (RS) knit 25(28)31(34)38.
Work stockinette st until the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm and bind off the 25(28)31(34)38 shoulder sts.
Cast on 36(36)38(38)40 sts and divide them across four double-pointed needles. Work ribbing in the round for 7 cm.
On the next round increase 22(24)26(30)30 sts:
Size XS/S: knit 1, *increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), knit 2, increase 1 st, knit 1*, repeat *-* 10 more times, knit 2.
Size M: knit 1, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), *knit 1, increase 1 st, knit 2, increase 1 st*, repeat *-* 10 more times, knit 1, increase 1 st, knit 1.
Size L: knit 1, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), knit 1, increase 1 st, *knit 1, increase 1 st, knit 2, increase 1 st*, repeat *-* 10 more times, knit 1, increase 1 st, knit 1, increase 1 st, knit 1.
Size XL: knit 4, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), *knit 1, increase 1 st*, repeat *-* 27 more times, knit 2, increase 1 st, knit 4.
Size XXL: knit 4, increase 1 st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), knit 2, increase 1 st, *knit 1, increase 1 st*, repeat *-* 25 more times, knit 2, increase 1 st, knit 2, increase 1 st, knit 4.
58(60)64(68)70 sts now on the needles.
Work double seed st in the round. Rounds 1-2: *knit 1, purl 1*, repeat *-* to end of round. Rounds 3-4: *purl 1, knit 1*, repeat *-* to end of round.
When the piece measures 45(46)47(48)48(49) cm, bind off in double seed st: work 2 sts onto the right-hand needle and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand st. Work another st and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one again. Repeat until 1 st remains. Break the yarn and pull it through the st.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams using a tapestry needle.
Collar: place the 16 sts onto the shorter circular needle and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for 76(76)78(78)80 sts in total. Work ribbing in the round for 16 cm, then bind off in pattern.
Fold the collar once and sew the edge to the WS.
Attach the sleeves.
Embroider some flowers onto the sweater using French knots and detached chain stitches (https://www.novitaknits.com/fi/fi/kirjonta).
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.