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Novita Woolly Wood: Prinsessaleikki (Playing Princess) knitted T-shirt

As low as €6.96

The summer’s nicest T-shirt is knitted from the hem up to the armholes in one piece. Knitted from Novita Woolly Wood, the beautiful shirt features a lace pattern that any little princess will adore.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 47
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Woolly Wood: Prinsessaleikki (Playing Princess) knitted T-shirt
Novita Woolly Wood-313 sage
€7.96
Novita Woolly Wood-313 sage
€7.96
Novita Woolly Wood-313 sage
€7.96
Novita Woolly Wood-313 sage
€7.96
Novita Woolly Wood-313 sage
€7.96
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.0 mm
€6.96
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.5 mm
€6.96
Novita circular needles 60 cm birch-3.0 mm
€6.96
Novita circular needles 60 cm birch-3.5 mm
€6.96

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Novita Woolly Wood: Prinsessaleikki (Playing Princess) knitted T-shirt
Novita Woolly Wood: Prinsessaleikki (Playing Princess) knitted T-shirt

In stock

€6.96

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022147
    Pattern details
    Size
    98/104(110/116)122/128(134/140)146/152 cm

    Yarn demand

    Novita Woolly Wood

    (313) Sage 150(200)250(250)300 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (60 cm / 24 in) and double-pointed needles Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3½ mm (US 4) or sizes needed for gauge



    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Body

    The body is knitted in the round up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle, cast on 150(158)170(178)186 sts and place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle. Work stockinette st and begin the lace pattern in the front on row 1 of the chart: k19(21)24(26)28, work 37 st lace pattern, k19(21)24(26)28, place marker (side), knit to end of round. Work stockinette st and rows 2–28 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–28.

    When the piece measures approx. 25(26)28(31)32 cm, finish with an odd-numbered row of the chart and separate the front and back.

    Top front

    Work next row to side marker. Leave next 75(79)85(89)93 sts (the back) on hold. With the 75(79)85(89)93 front sts, work back and forth.

    When the armhole measures 8(9)10(10)11 cm, leave the middle 25(25)25(27)27 on hold for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row, bind off 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures approx. 13(14)15(15)16 cm, break yarn and leave the remaining 19(21)24(25)27 sts on hold.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Top back

    Place the 75(79)85(89)93 back sts back on the needles and work stockinette st back and forth.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(13)14 cm, bind off the middle 33(33)33(35)35 for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row, decrease 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures approx. 13(14)15(15)16 cm, break yarn and leave the remaining 19(21)24(25)27 sts on hold.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Shoulder seams: Turn the work inside out. Place the right shoulder sts back onto the needles and align the shoulders. Work the sts together as follows: Purl together the first sts of both needles, then drop them off the needles. Work the second pair of sts in the same manner. Now pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Keep binding off as established. Alternatively, you can bind off all sts and sew the shoulder seam. Work the left shoulder in the same manner.

    Sleeves

    Using the larger double-pointed needles, pick up 56(60)64(64)68 sts from around the armhole [= 28(30)32(32)34 sts from both sides] and work stockinette st in the round for 2(2)3(3)4 cm.

    Switch to the smaller double-pointed needles and work ribbing in the round until the sleeve measures 5(5)6(6)7 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Neckline: Place the neckline sts onto the smaller double-pointed needles and with RS facing pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 90(90)92(92)94 sts. Work ribbing in the round for 2 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 64(68)72(76)80 cm / 25¼(26¾)28¼(30)31½ in

    length 38(40)43(46)48 cm / 15(15¾)17(18)19 in

    inner sleeve length 5(5)6(6)7 cm



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Lace pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.

    Gauge 23 sts and 30 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Body

    The body is knitted in the round up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle, cast on 150(158)170(178)186 sts and place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle. Work stockinette st and begin the lace pattern in the front on row 1 of the chart: k19(21)24(26)28, work 37 st lace pattern, k19(21)24(26)28, place marker (side), knit to end of round. Work stockinette st and rows 2–28 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–28.

    When the piece measures approx. 25(26)28(31)32 cm, finish with an odd-numbered row of the chart and separate the front and back.

    Top front

    Work next row to side marker. Leave next 75(79)85(89)93 sts (the back) on hold. With the 75(79)85(89)93 front sts, work back and forth.

    When the armhole measures 8(9)10(10)11 cm, leave the middle 25(25)25(27)27 on hold for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row, bind off 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures approx. 13(14)15(15)16 cm, break yarn and leave the remaining 19(21)24(25)27 sts on hold.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Top back

    Place the 75(79)85(89)93 back sts back on the needles and work stockinette st back and forth.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(13)14 cm, bind off the middle 33(33)33(35)35 for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row, decrease 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures approx. 13(14)15(15)16 cm, break yarn and leave the remaining 19(21)24(25)27 sts on hold.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Shoulder seams: Turn the work inside out. Place the right shoulder sts back onto the needles and align the shoulders. Work the sts together as follows: Purl together the first sts of both needles, then drop them off the needles. Work the second pair of sts in the same manner. Now pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Keep binding off as established. Alternatively, you can bind off all sts and sew the shoulder seam. Work the left shoulder in the same manner.

    Sleeves

    Using the larger double-pointed needles, pick up 56(60)64(64)68 sts from around the armhole [= 28(30)32(32)34 sts from both sides] and work stockinette st in the round for 2(2)3(3)4 cm.

    Switch to the smaller double-pointed needles and work ribbing in the round until the sleeve measures 5(5)6(6)7 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Neckline: Place the neckline sts onto the smaller double-pointed needles and with RS facing pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 90(90)92(92)94 sts. Work ribbing in the round for 2 cm. Bind off in pattern.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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