Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Woolly Wood: Pizzicato arm warmers
As low as €6.96
The fingerless Pizzicato arm warmers are knitted using Novita Woolly Wood.
Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
16
Expert
Availability: In stock
N012116
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Size
Yksi kokoYarn demand
Novita Woolly Wood(730) Blueberry Milk 200 g
Needles and other supplies
Double-pointed needles Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or size needed
Designer
Sari NordlundRight arm warmer
Cast on 78 sts and divide them onto four needles: 19 sts on needles I and III, 20 sts on needles II and IV. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Begin k1, p2 twisted ribbing: *p1, k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-*.
When the piece measures 12 cm, begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: work 12 sts in twisted ribbing, work cable pattern A (18 sts), work twisted ribbing to end. Work rows 2-28 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-28.
When the piece measures 18 cm, on the next round decrease 10 sts at the purl stripes: *p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog, k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-* once more, work next 18 sts in cable pattern, repeat *-* 8 times = 68 sts.
When the piece measures 28 cm, on the next round decrease 9 sts at the purl stripes: p1, k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog, *k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-* once more. Work next 18 sts in cable pattern. P1, *k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog*, repeat *-* 6 more times, k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, purl together the last st and the first st of the next round = 59 sts. The beginning of round is now here.
After you have completed rows 1-28 twice and then worked rows 1-19 once more, on the next round begin increases for the thumb gusset:
Increase round 1: work 8 sts in twisted ribbing, 18 sts in cable pattern, 7 sts in twisted ribbing, increase 1 purl st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1 through back loop, increase 1 purl st and work twisted ribbing to end of round. 2 sts increased, 3 sts in the thumb gusset. Work 1 round even, purling the increased sts.
Increase round 2: work 8 sts in twisted ribbing, 18 sts in cable pattern, 7 sts in twisted ribbing, increase 1 knit st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), p1, k1 through back loop, p1, increase 1 knit st and work twisted ribbing to end of round. 2 sts increased, 5 sts in the thumb gusset. Work 1 round even, knitting the increased sts through the back loop.
There are 2 more sts in the thumb gusset after each increase round. Work the increased sts in twisted ribbing. Repeat the increases 7 more times. 19 sts in the thumb gusset.
On the next round leave the 19 thumb gusset sts on hold and cast on 1 st in their place = 59 sts.
Note: After you have completed rows 1-28 three times in total and then worked rows 1-19 once more, on the next round decrease 1 st at each 2 st purl stripe in the cable pattern by p2tog. 7 sts decreased, 52 sts on the needles.
Work k1 p1 twisted ribbing until you have knitted for 8 cm after the thumb gusset.
Bind off in pattern.
Left arm warmer
Cast on 78 sts and divide them onto four needles: 20 sts on needles I and III, 19 sts on needles II and IV. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Begin k1, p2 twisted ribbing: *p1, k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-*.
When the piece measures 12 cm, begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: work 48 sts in twisted ribbing, work cable pattern B (18 sts), work twisted ribbing to end. Work rows 2-28 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-28.
When the piece measures 18 cm, on the next round decrease 10 sts at the purl stripes: *p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog, k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-* 7 more times, work next 18 sts in cable pattern, repeat *-* 2 times = 68 sts.
When the piece measures 28 cm, on the next round decrease 9 sts at the purl stripes: p1, *k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog*, repeat *-* 6 more times, k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, p1. Work next 18 sts in cable pattern. P1, k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog, p1, k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, purl together the last st and the first st of the next round = 59 sts. The beginning of round is now here.
After you have completed rows 1-28 twice and then worked rows 1-19 once more, on the next round begin increases for the thumb gusset:
Increase round 1: work 24 sts in twisted ribbing, increase 1 purl st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1 through back loop, increase 1 purl st, work 7 sts in twisted ribbing, work 18 sts in cable pattern, work twisted ribbing to end of round. 2 sts increased, 3 sts in the thumb gusset. Work 1 round even, purling the increased sts.
Increase round 2: work 24 sts in twisted ribbing, increase 1 knit st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), p1, k1 through back loop, p1, increase 1 knit st, work 7 sts in twisted ribbing, work 18 sts in cable pattern, work twisted ribbing to end of round. 2 sts increased, 5 sts in the thumb gusset. Work 1 round even, knitting the increased sts through the back loop.
There are 2 more sts in the thumb gusset after each increase round. Work the increased sts in twisted ribbing. Repeat the increases 7 more times. 19 sts in the thumb gusset.
On the next round leave the 19 thumb gusset sts on hold and cast on 1 st in their place = 59 sts.
Note: After you have completed rows 1-28 three times in total and then worked rows 1-19 once more, on the next round decrease 1 st at each 2 st purl stripe in the cable pattern by p2tog. 7 sts decreased, 52 sts on the needles.
Work k1 p1 twisted ribbing until you have knitted for 8 cm after the thumb gusset.
Bind off in pattern.
Thumb
Place the 19 thumb sts back on the needles and pick up 1 additional st from the edge. Divide the sts onto three needles: 7 sts on needles I and II, 6 sts on needle III. Work k1 p1 twisted ribbing in the round until the thumb measures 3 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Finishing
Steam and shape.
Fold the top and bottom edge of the arm warmers.
Finished dimensions
top circumference, lightly stretched, approx. 30 cm / 12 inStitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns
K1 p2 twisted ribbing:
*p1, k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row. K1 p1 twisted ribbing: *k1 through back loop, p1*
Right arm warmer
Cast on 78 sts and divide them onto four needles: 19 sts on needles I and III, 20 sts on needles II and IV. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Begin k1, p2 twisted ribbing: *p1, k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-*.
When the piece measures 12 cm, begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: work 12 sts in twisted ribbing, work cable pattern A (18 sts), work twisted ribbing to end. Work rows 2-28 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-28.
When the piece measures 18 cm, on the next round decrease 10 sts at the purl stripes: *p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog, k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-* once more, work next 18 sts in cable pattern, repeat *-* 8 times = 68 sts.
When the piece measures 28 cm, on the next round decrease 9 sts at the purl stripes: p1, k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog, *k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-* once more. Work next 18 sts in cable pattern. P1, *k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog*, repeat *-* 6 more times, k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, purl together the last st and the first st of the next round = 59 sts. The beginning of round is now here.
After you have completed rows 1-28 twice and then worked rows 1-19 once more, on the next round begin increases for the thumb gusset:
Increase round 1: work 8 sts in twisted ribbing, 18 sts in cable pattern, 7 sts in twisted ribbing, increase 1 purl st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1 through back loop, increase 1 purl st and work twisted ribbing to end of round. 2 sts increased, 3 sts in the thumb gusset. Work 1 round even, purling the increased sts.
Increase round 2: work 8 sts in twisted ribbing, 18 sts in cable pattern, 7 sts in twisted ribbing, increase 1 knit st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), p1, k1 through back loop, p1, increase 1 knit st and work twisted ribbing to end of round. 2 sts increased, 5 sts in the thumb gusset. Work 1 round even, knitting the increased sts through the back loop.
There are 2 more sts in the thumb gusset after each increase round. Work the increased sts in twisted ribbing. Repeat the increases 7 more times. 19 sts in the thumb gusset.
On the next round leave the 19 thumb gusset sts on hold and cast on 1 st in their place = 59 sts.
Note: After you have completed rows 1-28 three times in total and then worked rows 1-19 once more, on the next round decrease 1 st at each 2 st purl stripe in the cable pattern by p2tog. 7 sts decreased, 52 sts on the needles.
Work k1 p1 twisted ribbing until you have knitted for 8 cm after the thumb gusset.
Bind off in pattern.
Left arm warmer
Cast on 78 sts and divide them onto four needles: 20 sts on needles I and III, 19 sts on needles II and IV. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Begin k1, p2 twisted ribbing: *p1, k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-*.
When the piece measures 12 cm, begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: work 48 sts in twisted ribbing, work cable pattern B (18 sts), work twisted ribbing to end. Work rows 2-28 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-28.
When the piece measures 18 cm, on the next round decrease 10 sts at the purl stripes: *p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog, k1 through back loop, p1*, repeat *-* 7 more times, work next 18 sts in cable pattern, repeat *-* 2 times = 68 sts.
When the piece measures 28 cm, on the next round decrease 9 sts at the purl stripes: p1, *k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog*, repeat *-* 6 more times, k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, p1. Work next 18 sts in cable pattern. P1, k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, p2tog, p1, k1 through back loop, p1, k1 through back loop, purl together the last st and the first st of the next round = 59 sts. The beginning of round is now here.
After you have completed rows 1-28 twice and then worked rows 1-19 once more, on the next round begin increases for the thumb gusset:
Increase round 1: work 24 sts in twisted ribbing, increase 1 purl st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1 through back loop, increase 1 purl st, work 7 sts in twisted ribbing, work 18 sts in cable pattern, work twisted ribbing to end of round. 2 sts increased, 3 sts in the thumb gusset. Work 1 round even, purling the increased sts.
Increase round 2: work 24 sts in twisted ribbing, increase 1 knit st (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), p1, k1 through back loop, p1, increase 1 knit st, work 7 sts in twisted ribbing, work 18 sts in cable pattern, work twisted ribbing to end of round. 2 sts increased, 5 sts in the thumb gusset. Work 1 round even, knitting the increased sts through the back loop.
There are 2 more sts in the thumb gusset after each increase round. Work the increased sts in twisted ribbing. Repeat the increases 7 more times. 19 sts in the thumb gusset.
On the next round leave the 19 thumb gusset sts on hold and cast on 1 st in their place = 59 sts.
Note: After you have completed rows 1-28 three times in total and then worked rows 1-19 once more, on the next round decrease 1 st at each 2 st purl stripe in the cable pattern by p2tog. 7 sts decreased, 52 sts on the needles.
Work k1 p1 twisted ribbing until you have knitted for 8 cm after the thumb gusset.
Bind off in pattern.
Thumb
Place the 19 thumb sts back on the needles and pick up 1 additional st from the edge. Divide the sts onto three needles: 7 sts on needles I and II, 6 sts on needle III. Work k1 p1 twisted ribbing in the round until the thumb measures 3 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Finishing
Steam and shape.
Fold the top and bottom edge of the arm warmers.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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