Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Woolly Wood: Moona, crocheted cardigan
As low as €6.96
The crocheted loop stitch Moona jacket is a stylish ruffle dream. The loops are crocheted by looping the yarn around a strip of cardboard. The Novita Woolly Wood yarn is summery light and has a beautiful drape.
Novita Kesä 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
27
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N022227
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Size
98/104(110/116)122/128 cmYarn demand
Novita Woolly Wood
(281) Autumn Leaves 500(600)650 g
Needles and other supplies
Crochet hook: Novita 3,5 mm (US 8/UK 6) or size needed to fit gauge
Notions: strip of cardboard, height approx. 16 mm/0.6“ and length for example 5 cm/2“. The cardboard strip can always be pushed a little further up the row, while crocheting the row.
Designer
Minttu WikbergNote 1: this pattern is written in US crochet terms. Sometimes, they differ from UK terms. At the end of the pattern, you can find a list of Abbreviation & Term Differences between the U.S./Canada and United Kingdom (U.K.). Please check this list if you are used to the UK terms!
Note 2: The cardigan is crocheted from the bottom up.
Sleeves
Crochet a chain of 46(48)48 ch sts.
Row 1: (RS) 1 sc into 2nd ch st from crochet hook and 1 sc into each st of chain = 45(47)47 sc. Turn work.
Rows 2-3: ch 1 at the beg of the row and then 1 sc into each sc of previous row = 45(47)47 sc.
Row 4, loop row: (WS) ch 1 at the beg of the row, 2 sc, place cardboard strip at the back of the work, *yarn over hook, insert crochet hook into next st, pass the yarn underneath the cardboard strip, up around the strip, yarn over hook, pull yarn through st, yarn over hook, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook at once, rep from * to the last 2 sts of the row, 2 sc = 45(47)47 sts.
Rows 5-7: ch 1 at the beg of the row and then 1 sc into each sc of previous row = 45(47)47 sc.
Rep rows 4-7.
When work measures approx. 5(3,5)4 cm/2(1.4)1.6”, inc 1 st at the beg and end of next row (crochet 2 sc into 1 st). rep these inc’s 5(6)8 more times approx. every 3,5(3,5)3 cm/1.4(1.4)1.2” = 57(61)65 sts.
When work measures approx. 26(28)31 cm/10.2(11)12.2”
and after having worked 2 rows after a loop row, put sleeve aside.
Crochet the second sleeve in the same way
Front- and back, lower part
The body is worked in one piece up to the armholes, with opening mid front.
Crochet a chain of 155(163)171 chain sts.
Row 1: (RS) 1 sc into 2nd ch st from crochet hook and 1 sc into each st of chain = 154(162)172 sc. Turn work.
Rows 2-3: ch 1 at the beg of the row and then 1 sc into each sc of previous row = 154(162)172 sc.
Row 4, loop row: (WS) ch 1 at the beg of the row, 2 sc, place cardboard strip at the back of the work, *yarn over hook, insert crochet hook into next st, pass the yarn underneath the cardboard strip, up around the strip, yarn over hook, pull yarn through st, yarn over hook, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook at once, rep from * to the last 2 sts of the row, 2 sc = 154(162)172 sts.
Rows 5-7: ch 1 at the beg of the row and then 1 sc into each sc of previous row = 154(162)172 sc.
Rep rows 4-7, until work measures approx. 20(22)24 cm/7.9(8.7)9.5” and after having worked 2 rows after a loop row, as described for the sleeves.
Upper part
At the beg of the upper part, crochet 35(36)37 sc of front, take one sleeve and crochet 49(51)53 sc, starting from the 5th(6th)7th sleeve-st [at the sleeve, 8(10)12 sc remain unworked, for the bottom edge of the armhole]. Skip 8(10)12 sc at the body, for the bottom edge of the armhole and crochet 68(70)74 sc at the back. Take the second sleeve and crochet 49(51)53 sc of second sleeve, starting from the 5th(6th)7th sleeve-st [at the sleeve, 8(10)12 sc remain unworked, for the bottom edge of the armhole]. Skip 8(10)12 sc at the body, for the bottom edge of the armhole and crochet 35(36)37 sc of front. There are now 236(244)254 sc. Place stitch markers between the different parts.
Crochet 1 row acc to pattern and in the next row, start the raglan-decreases. Always dec 1 st on both sides of each M, as follows: *crochet to 2 sts before M, skip 1 st of previous row, crochet 1 sc into next st, remove M, 1 sc, skip next st of previous row, place M between 2 sc last worked, rep from * 3 more times and crochet to end of row. In this row, 8 sts are decreased. Rep these dec’s as described, in every 2nd row 14(15)17 more times and then in every row 2(2)0 times. There are now 100(100)110 sts and the raglan-seam measures approx. 15(16)17 cm/5.9(6.3)6.7”. Cut yarn.
Finishing
Button bands: With WS facing, join yarn at the bottom left corner of front part. Crochet 1 row sc up along left front button band, then around the neck opening and down along right front button band. At the corners of the neck opening, crochet 3 sc into 1 st and dec 8(8)14 sts evenly spaced at the neckline. Turn work and crochet one more row of single crochets. Cut yarn.
Weave in all ends.
Sew the sleeve seams together using the mattrass stitch (= place the parts very close together without overlapping. With RS facing, sew the parts together with the mattrass stitch, sewing through both loops of both stitches.) Close the smell openings at the underarms.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
ch = chain stitch
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
M = marker
rep = repeat
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Finished dimensions
Finished measurements of cardigan:
Chest circumference: 70(74)78 cm/27.6(29.1)30.7”
Length mid back: 35(38)41 cm/13.8(15)16.1”
Underarm length: 26(28)31 cm/10.2(11)12.2”
Stitch patterns & gauge
Crochet stitch patterns: chain stitch (ch), single crochet (sc) and loop stitch, crochet acc to written instructions.
Loop stitch: ch 1 at the beg of the row, 2 sc, place cardboard strip at the back of the work, *yarn over hook, insert crochet hook into next st, pass the yarn underneath the cardboard strip, up around the strip, yarn over hook, pull yarn through st, yarn over hook, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook at once, rep from * to the last 2 sts of the row, 2 sc.
Gauge/Tension: 22 sts and 22 rows worked in crocheted loop stitch pattern (1 row of loop sts, 3 rows of single crochets) = 10 cm/4”
Note 1: this pattern is written in US crochet terms. Sometimes, they differ from UK terms. At the end of the pattern, you can find a list of Abbreviation & Term Differences between the U.S./Canada and United Kingdom (U.K.). Please check this list if you are used to the UK terms!
Note 2: The cardigan is crocheted from the bottom up.
Sleeves
Crochet a chain of 46(48)48 ch sts.
Row 1: (RS) 1 sc into 2nd ch st from crochet hook and 1 sc into each st of chain = 45(47)47 sc. Turn work.
Rows 2-3: ch 1 at the beg of the row and then 1 sc into each sc of previous row = 45(47)47 sc.
Row 4, loop row: (WS) ch 1 at the beg of the row, 2 sc, place cardboard strip at the back of the work, *yarn over hook, insert crochet hook into next st, pass the yarn underneath the cardboard strip, up around the strip, yarn over hook, pull yarn through st, yarn over hook, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook at once, rep from * to the last 2 sts of the row, 2 sc = 45(47)47 sts.
Rows 5-7: ch 1 at the beg of the row and then 1 sc into each sc of previous row = 45(47)47 sc.
Rep rows 4-7.
When work measures approx. 5(3,5)4 cm/2(1.4)1.6”, inc 1 st at the beg and end of next row (crochet 2 sc into 1 st). rep these inc’s 5(6)8 more times approx. every 3,5(3,5)3 cm/1.4(1.4)1.2” = 57(61)65 sts.
When work measures approx. 26(28)31 cm/10.2(11)12.2”
and after having worked 2 rows after a loop row, put sleeve aside.
Crochet the second sleeve in the same way
Front- and back, lower part
The body is worked in one piece up to the armholes, with opening mid front.
Crochet a chain of 155(163)171 chain sts.
Row 1: (RS) 1 sc into 2nd ch st from crochet hook and 1 sc into each st of chain = 154(162)172 sc. Turn work.
Rows 2-3: ch 1 at the beg of the row and then 1 sc into each sc of previous row = 154(162)172 sc.
Row 4, loop row: (WS) ch 1 at the beg of the row, 2 sc, place cardboard strip at the back of the work, *yarn over hook, insert crochet hook into next st, pass the yarn underneath the cardboard strip, up around the strip, yarn over hook, pull yarn through st, yarn over hook, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook at once, rep from * to the last 2 sts of the row, 2 sc = 154(162)172 sts.
Rows 5-7: ch 1 at the beg of the row and then 1 sc into each sc of previous row = 154(162)172 sc.
Rep rows 4-7, until work measures approx. 20(22)24 cm/7.9(8.7)9.5” and after having worked 2 rows after a loop row, as described for the sleeves.
Upper part
At the beg of the upper part, crochet 35(36)37 sc of front, take one sleeve and crochet 49(51)53 sc, starting from the 5th(6th)7th sleeve-st [at the sleeve, 8(10)12 sc remain unworked, for the bottom edge of the armhole]. Skip 8(10)12 sc at the body, for the bottom edge of the armhole and crochet 68(70)74 sc at the back. Take the second sleeve and crochet 49(51)53 sc of second sleeve, starting from the 5th(6th)7th sleeve-st [at the sleeve, 8(10)12 sc remain unworked, for the bottom edge of the armhole]. Skip 8(10)12 sc at the body, for the bottom edge of the armhole and crochet 35(36)37 sc of front. There are now 236(244)254 sc. Place stitch markers between the different parts.
Crochet 1 row acc to pattern and in the next row, start the raglan-decreases. Always dec 1 st on both sides of each M, as follows: *crochet to 2 sts before M, skip 1 st of previous row, crochet 1 sc into next st, remove M, 1 sc, skip next st of previous row, place M between 2 sc last worked, rep from * 3 more times and crochet to end of row. In this row, 8 sts are decreased. Rep these dec’s as described, in every 2nd row 14(15)17 more times and then in every row 2(2)0 times. There are now 100(100)110 sts and the raglan-seam measures approx. 15(16)17 cm/5.9(6.3)6.7”. Cut yarn.
Finishing
Button bands: With WS facing, join yarn at the bottom left corner of front part. Crochet 1 row sc up along left front button band, then around the neck opening and down along right front button band. At the corners of the neck opening, crochet 3 sc into 1 st and dec 8(8)14 sts evenly spaced at the neckline. Turn work and crochet one more row of single crochets. Cut yarn.
Weave in all ends.
Sew the sleeve seams together using the mattrass stitch (= place the parts very close together without overlapping. With RS facing, sew the parts together with the mattrass stitch, sewing through both loops of both stitches.) Close the smell openings at the underarms.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
ch = chain stitch
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
M = marker
rep = repeat
RS = right side
sc = single crochet
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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