Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Woolly Wood: Lumous-cable knit dress
As low as €6.96
The long-sleeved Lumous (Finnish for magic, fascination) cable-knit dress is knitted in delicately shimmering Novita Woolly Wood yarn. The wonderfully soft and beautifully draping yarn consists of 70% modal fiber and 30% merino wool. Designed by Sigrid Blom, the dress features a flattering shoulder construction. The dress is not only beautiful, it is also interesting to knit.
Novita Kesä 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
1
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N02221
Related Products
Size
S/M(L/XL)XXLYarn demand
Woolly Wood
Three-colored: (384) Pine 350(400)450 g
(169) Storm 350(350)400 g
(043) Stone 50(50)50 g
Single-colored: (043) Stone 650(700)750 g
Needles and other supplies
Needles: Novita 40 cm / 16” and 60-80 cm / 24-32” circular needles size 4 mm (US 6/UK 8), a short (40 cm / 16”) circular needle size 3.5 mm ((US 4/UK 10 or 9) for neckline and a set of Novita dpns size 4 mm (US 6/UK 8) or size needed to fit gauge.
Designer
Sigrid BlomThe upper part of the back is worked flat, using the larger size ndls.
CO 52(52)52 sts, using color Storm for the 3-colored dress and using color Stone for the single-colored dress. Work first WS row, as follows: 1 selvedge stitch (ES), *p2, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, 1 ES.
In the next 4 rows, increase for shoulder shaping and work increased sts into rib stitch pattern, as follows:
A (RS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1L - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1R - knitwise, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, 1 ES.
B (WS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1R - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1L - purlwise, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, 1 ES.
C (RS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1L - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1R - purlwise, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, 1 ES.
D (WS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1R - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1L - knitwise, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, 1 ES.
Rep these 4 rows a total of 6(7)8 times. There is now a total of 100(108)116 sts on the ndl. Continue working back and forth in 2/2 ribbing, without increases (1 ES at the beg and end of each row).
When work, measured from the center of the back, measures approx. 20(21,5)23 cm / 7.9(8.5)9.1”, work 1 more WS row, then place all sts on hold.
The left shoulder of front part is worked flat, using the larger size ndls.
PUK 28(32)36 sts along left shoulder edge of back part (1 st out of 1 st ratio), using the yarn tail. Then work the first RS row, using the working yarn, as follows: 1 ES, *k2, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, 1 ES.
Continue working 2/2 ribbing back and forth (1 ES at the beg and end of each row), until work measures 5 cm / 2”, ending with a WS row. Then work increases for neckline shaping acc to following 4 rows, working the increased sts into 2/2 rib stitch pattern, as follows:
A (RS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1L - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
B (WS row): 1 ES, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1L - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
C (RS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1L - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
D (WS row): 1 ES, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1L - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
Rep these 4 rows a total of 3 times. There is now a total of 40(44)48 sts on the ndl. Place sts on hold and work right shoulder.
The right shoulder of front part is worked flat, using the larger size ndls.
PUK 28(32)36 sts along right shoulder edge of back part (1 st out of 1 st ratio), using the yarn tail. Then work the first RS row, using the working yarn, as follows: 1 ES, *k2, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, 1 ES.
Continue working 2/2 ribbing back and forth (1 ES at the beg and end of each row), until work measures 5 cm / 2”, ending with a WS row. Then work increases for neckline shaping acc to following 4 rows, working the increased sts into 2/2 rib stitch pattern, as follows:
A (RS row): 1 ES, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1R - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
B (WS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1R - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
C (RS row): 1 ES, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1R - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
D (WS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1R - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
Rep these 4 rows a total of 3 times. There is now a total of 40(44)48 sts on the ndl.
Front, upper part
Join shoulders of front part, as follows: work the 40(44)48 sts of right shoulder in 2/2 ribbing, CO 20 new sts for neckline mid front and work the 40(44)48 sts of left shoulder in 2/2 ribbing = 100(108)116 sts.
Continue working in 2/2 ribbing back and forth (1 ES at the beg and end of each row), until front part, measured downwards from center of neckline, measures 9(10,5)12 cm / 3.5(4.1)4.7”. End with a WS row.
Front and back, lower part
Join together front and back, as follows: work the 100(108)116 front-sts in 2/2 ribbing, CO 4(8)12 new sts for left armhole, work 100(108)116 back-sts in 2/2 ribbing, CO 4(8)12 new sts for left armhole = 208(232)256 sts. Continue working in 2/2 ribbing in the round. Purl the ES, work the new underarm sts as follows: size S/M: p1, k2, p1, size L/XL: p1, k2, p2, k2, p1 and size XXL: p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1. Beginning of round is at the center of right underarm.
When work, measured from center front, measures 17(18,5)20 cm /6.7(7.3)7.9”, change to color Stone when working the 3-colored dress, continue working in st st and at the same time, inc 0(2)4 sts in the first rnd, evenly spaced = 208(234)260 sts. There are 104(117)130 sts each for front and back.
Work in st st for 4 cm / 1.6”, change to color Pine when working the 3-colored dress, then continue working acc to cable pattern, starting with row 1 of chart, at the spot marked with the arrow, and work pattern rep of 28 sts to end of rnd. In this rnd, 2 sts are increased in every pattern rep, resulting in a total of 224(252)280 sts. There are 112(126)140 sts each for back and front.
Rep rnds 2-41 until work from start of cable pattern measures approx. 60(61,5)63 cm / 23.6(24.2)24.8”, or work until desired length, ending with rnd 6 or 26 of chart. Work next rnd of chart and at the same time, dec 2 sts in every pattern rep, at the same spots the increases were worked in the first rnd, at the beg of the cable pattern. In this rnd, 16(18)20 sts are decreased and 208(234)260 sts rem on the ndl.
Work in g st in the round for 6 rnds (alternately knit 1 rnd and purl 1 rnd) and at the same time, dec 0(2)4 sts, evenly spaced, in the first rnd = 208(232)256 sts. Loosely BO all sts.
Sleeves
Using the larger size ndls and starting at the center of right underarm CO edge, PUK 2(4)8 sts then PUK 29(31)33 sts along edge of back part, PUK 51(53)55 sts along edge of front part and PUK another 2(4)8 sts from underarm CO edge = 84(92)104 sts. Place marker at center of underarm, join for working in the round and continue working 2/2 ribbing in the rnd, as follows: k1, *p2, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Work straight for 5 cm / 2”, then start decreasing for sleeve shaping at the beg and end of the rnd, as follows:
Rnd 1: k1, p2, k1, ssk, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 6 sts, k2tog, k1, p2, k1.
Rnd 2: work in 2/2 ribbing.
Work rnds 1-2 a total of 4 times. There are now 76(84)96 sts on the ndl.
Tip: Change to dpns, if necessary.
* Work straight for 5 cm / 2”, then work rnds 1-2 a total of 4 times, rep from * until only 36(44)52 sts rem.
When last decrease rnd is worked, continue working in 2/2 ribbing, until sleeve measures 52(53)54 cm / 20.5(20.9)21.3” (or work until sleeve has reached desired length). Loosely BO all sts.
Work second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Neckline border: using circ. ndl size 3.5 mm (US 4/UK 10 or 9), PUK approx. 130 sts along neckline edge (using color Storm for 3-colored dress), join for working in the rnd and work in 1/1 ribbing (k1, p1) for 5 cm / 2”. Loosely BO all sts in pattern. Fold in half and secure border on the inside.
Weave in all ends. Place work inside out onto a flat surface acc to measurements, dampen and leave to dry.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
circ. = circular
CN = cable needle
CO = cast on
dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
ES = edge stitch
foll = following
g st = garter stitch
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
LH = left hand
M1 (knitwise/purlwise) = increase 1 st by working the bar between 2 sts as a twisted knit/purl stitch
M1L = make 1 left leaning increase
M1R = make 1 right leaning increase
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
RH = right hand
rnd(s) = round(s)
sl = slip
ssk = slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto left ndl, knit together through back loops
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
WS = wrong side
Translations charts and legend:
Diagramm = Chart
Mitte des Vorderteils = Midfront
28 M Musterrapport wiederholt sich = 28 st pattern repeat
Rückenteil = Back
Vorderteil = Front
Strickrichtung = Knitting direction
1 M re, in Rückreihe 1 M li = k1, p1 on WS
1 M li, in Rückreihe 1 M re = p1, k1 on WS
1 M auf Hilfsnadel vor...1 M re = C1/1L: slip 1 st onto CN and hold in front of work, k1, k1 from CN
1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter...1 M re = C1/1R: slip 1 st onto CN and hold in back of work, k1, k1 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor...2 M re = C2/2L: slip 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of work, k2, k2 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter...2 M re = C2/2R: slip 2 sts onto CN and hold in back of work, k2, k2 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 2 ? 1 ! M li ...2 M re = T2/1L: slip 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of work, p1, k2 from CN (the symbol only covers 3 boxes, with 1 purl st and 2 knit sts, so I asume it’s supposed to be only 1 purl st!)
1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter...1 M li = T2/1L: slip 1 st onto CN and hold in back of work, k2, p1 from CN
Finished dimensions
Finished measurements:
Chest circumference: 98(110)122 cm / 38.6(43.3)48”
Length of sweater from lowest part of neckline to bottom edge: 92(95)98 cm / 36.2(37.4)38.6”
Underarm length: 52(53)54 cm / 20.5(20.9)21.3”
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns: 2/2 Ribbing worked flat and in the round: *k2, p2, rep from * across; in all foll rows/rnds, work sts as they appear. Stockinette st in the round: knit all sts. Cable pattern: work acc to written instructions and chart.
Gauge/Tension: 21 sts, using needle size 4 mm (US 6/UK 8), worked in st st = 10 cm / 4”
Pattern note: The dress is worked top-down, using three different stitch patterns and can be worked either three-colored or single-colored. First, the sts for the neckline are cast on, the back is worked flat in 2/2 ribbing and at the same time, on each side of the work, increases are worked for shoulder shaping. To form the front, shoulder sts are picked up from back part and both front parts are worked flat, one after the other, while at the same time, increases are worked for neckline shaping. Front parts are joined together after casting on extra sts for neckline mid front. When armhole-depth is reached, back and front parts are joined together and work is continued in the round. The part at the waist is worked in st st and the lower part of the dress is worked in cable pattern. When body is finished, sts are picked up for the sleeves and sleeves are worked in 2/2 ribbing and decreases are worked for sleeve shaping, until indicated (or desired) length is reached.
The upper part of the back is worked flat, using the larger size ndls.
CO 52(52)52 sts, using color Storm for the 3-colored dress and using color Stone for the single-colored dress. Work first WS row, as follows: 1 selvedge stitch (ES), *p2, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, 1 ES.
In the next 4 rows, increase for shoulder shaping and work increased sts into rib stitch pattern, as follows:
A (RS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1L - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1R - knitwise, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, 1 ES.
B (WS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1R - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1L - purlwise, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, 1 ES.
C (RS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1L - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1R - purlwise, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, 1 ES.
D (WS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1R - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1L - knitwise, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, 1 ES.
Rep these 4 rows a total of 6(7)8 times. There is now a total of 100(108)116 sts on the ndl. Continue working back and forth in 2/2 ribbing, without increases (1 ES at the beg and end of each row).
When work, measured from the center of the back, measures approx. 20(21,5)23 cm / 7.9(8.5)9.1”, work 1 more WS row, then place all sts on hold.
The left shoulder of front part is worked flat, using the larger size ndls.
PUK 28(32)36 sts along left shoulder edge of back part (1 st out of 1 st ratio), using the yarn tail. Then work the first RS row, using the working yarn, as follows: 1 ES, *k2, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, 1 ES.
Continue working 2/2 ribbing back and forth (1 ES at the beg and end of each row), until work measures 5 cm / 2”, ending with a WS row. Then work increases for neckline shaping acc to following 4 rows, working the increased sts into 2/2 rib stitch pattern, as follows:
A (RS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1L - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
B (WS row): 1 ES, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1L - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
C (RS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1L - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
D (WS row): 1 ES, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1L - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
Rep these 4 rows a total of 3 times. There is now a total of 40(44)48 sts on the ndl. Place sts on hold and work right shoulder.
The right shoulder of front part is worked flat, using the larger size ndls.
PUK 28(32)36 sts along right shoulder edge of back part (1 st out of 1 st ratio), using the yarn tail. Then work the first RS row, using the working yarn, as follows: 1 ES, *k2, p2, rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, 1 ES.
Continue working 2/2 ribbing back and forth (1 ES at the beg and end of each row), until work measures 5 cm / 2”, ending with a WS row. Then work increases for neckline shaping acc to following 4 rows, working the increased sts into 2/2 rib stitch pattern, as follows:
A (RS row): 1 ES, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1R - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
B (WS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1R - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
C (RS row): 1 ES, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 11 sts, M1R - purlwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
D (WS row): 1 ES, work 10 sts in 2/2 ribbing, M1R - knitwise, work in 2/2 ribbing to last st, 1 ES.
Rep these 4 rows a total of 3 times. There is now a total of 40(44)48 sts on the ndl.
Front, upper part
Join shoulders of front part, as follows: work the 40(44)48 sts of right shoulder in 2/2 ribbing, CO 20 new sts for neckline mid front and work the 40(44)48 sts of left shoulder in 2/2 ribbing = 100(108)116 sts.
Continue working in 2/2 ribbing back and forth (1 ES at the beg and end of each row), until front part, measured downwards from center of neckline, measures 9(10,5)12 cm / 3.5(4.1)4.7”. End with a WS row.
Front and back, lower part
Join together front and back, as follows: work the 100(108)116 front-sts in 2/2 ribbing, CO 4(8)12 new sts for left armhole, work 100(108)116 back-sts in 2/2 ribbing, CO 4(8)12 new sts for left armhole = 208(232)256 sts. Continue working in 2/2 ribbing in the round. Purl the ES, work the new underarm sts as follows: size S/M: p1, k2, p1, size L/XL: p1, k2, p2, k2, p1 and size XXL: p1, k2, p2, k2, p2, k2, p1. Beginning of round is at the center of right underarm.
When work, measured from center front, measures 17(18,5)20 cm /6.7(7.3)7.9”, change to color Stone when working the 3-colored dress, continue working in st st and at the same time, inc 0(2)4 sts in the first rnd, evenly spaced = 208(234)260 sts. There are 104(117)130 sts each for front and back.
Work in st st for 4 cm / 1.6”, change to color Pine when working the 3-colored dress, then continue working acc to cable pattern, starting with row 1 of chart, at the spot marked with the arrow, and work pattern rep of 28 sts to end of rnd. In this rnd, 2 sts are increased in every pattern rep, resulting in a total of 224(252)280 sts. There are 112(126)140 sts each for back and front.
Rep rnds 2-41 until work from start of cable pattern measures approx. 60(61,5)63 cm / 23.6(24.2)24.8”, or work until desired length, ending with rnd 6 or 26 of chart. Work next rnd of chart and at the same time, dec 2 sts in every pattern rep, at the same spots the increases were worked in the first rnd, at the beg of the cable pattern. In this rnd, 16(18)20 sts are decreased and 208(234)260 sts rem on the ndl.
Work in g st in the round for 6 rnds (alternately knit 1 rnd and purl 1 rnd) and at the same time, dec 0(2)4 sts, evenly spaced, in the first rnd = 208(232)256 sts. Loosely BO all sts.
Sleeves
Using the larger size ndls and starting at the center of right underarm CO edge, PUK 2(4)8 sts then PUK 29(31)33 sts along edge of back part, PUK 51(53)55 sts along edge of front part and PUK another 2(4)8 sts from underarm CO edge = 84(92)104 sts. Place marker at center of underarm, join for working in the round and continue working 2/2 ribbing in the rnd, as follows: k1, *p2, k2, rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
Work straight for 5 cm / 2”, then start decreasing for sleeve shaping at the beg and end of the rnd, as follows:
Rnd 1: k1, p2, k1, ssk, work in 2/2 ribbing to last 6 sts, k2tog, k1, p2, k1.
Rnd 2: work in 2/2 ribbing.
Work rnds 1-2 a total of 4 times. There are now 76(84)96 sts on the ndl.
Tip: Change to dpns, if necessary.
* Work straight for 5 cm / 2”, then work rnds 1-2 a total of 4 times, rep from * until only 36(44)52 sts rem.
When last decrease rnd is worked, continue working in 2/2 ribbing, until sleeve measures 52(53)54 cm / 20.5(20.9)21.3” (or work until sleeve has reached desired length). Loosely BO all sts.
Work second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Neckline border: using circ. ndl size 3.5 mm (US 4/UK 10 or 9), PUK approx. 130 sts along neckline edge (using color Storm for 3-colored dress), join for working in the rnd and work in 1/1 ribbing (k1, p1) for 5 cm / 2”. Loosely BO all sts in pattern. Fold in half and secure border on the inside.
Weave in all ends. Place work inside out onto a flat surface acc to measurements, dampen and leave to dry.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
circ. = circular
CN = cable needle
CO = cast on
dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
ES = edge stitch
foll = following
g st = garter stitch
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
LH = left hand
M1 (knitwise/purlwise) = increase 1 st by working the bar between 2 sts as a twisted knit/purl stitch
M1L = make 1 left leaning increase
M1R = make 1 right leaning increase
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
RH = right hand
rnd(s) = round(s)
sl = slip
ssk = slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto left ndl, knit together through back loops
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
WS = wrong side
Translations charts and legend:
Diagramm = Chart
Mitte des Vorderteils = Midfront
28 M Musterrapport wiederholt sich = 28 st pattern repeat
Rückenteil = Back
Vorderteil = Front
Strickrichtung = Knitting direction
1 M re, in Rückreihe 1 M li = k1, p1 on WS
1 M li, in Rückreihe 1 M re = p1, k1 on WS
1 M auf Hilfsnadel vor...1 M re = C1/1L: slip 1 st onto CN and hold in front of work, k1, k1 from CN
1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter...1 M re = C1/1R: slip 1 st onto CN and hold in back of work, k1, k1 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor...2 M re = C2/2L: slip 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of work, k2, k2 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter...2 M re = C2/2R: slip 2 sts onto CN and hold in back of work, k2, k2 from CN
2 M auf Hilfsnadel vor die Arbeit legen, 2 ? 1 ! M li ...2 M re = T2/1L: slip 2 sts onto CN and hold in front of work, p1, k2 from CN (the symbol only covers 3 boxes, with 1 purl st and 2 knit sts, so I asume it’s supposed to be only 1 purl st!)
1 M auf Hilfsnadel hinter...1 M li = T2/1L: slip 1 st onto CN and hold in back of work, k2, p1 from CN
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
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Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
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In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
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Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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