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Novita Woolly Wood: Kesän lapsi (Summer Child) knitted top

As low as €6.90

The sleeveless summer top is knitted in one piece from the hem to the armholes using the soft Novita Woolly Wood yarn.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 51
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Woolly Wood: Kesän lapsi (Summer Child) knitted top
Novita Woolly Wood-501 petal
€7.90
Novita Woolly Wood-501 petal
€7.90
Novita Woolly Wood-501 petal
€7.90
Novita Woolly Wood-501 petal
€7.90
Novita Woolly Wood-501 petal
€7.90
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.0 mm
€6.90
Novita circular needles 60 cm birch-3.0 mm
€6.90
Novita circular needles 60 cm birch-3.5 mm
€6.90

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Novita Woolly Wood: Kesän lapsi (Summer Child) knitted top
Novita Woolly Wood: Kesän lapsi (Summer Child) knitted top

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022151
    Pattern details
    Size
    98/104(110/116)122/128(134/140)146/152 cm

    Yarn demand

    Novita Woolly Wood

    (501) Petal 150(<200)200(250)250 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (40/60 cm / 16/24 in) Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3½ mm (US 4) or sizes needed; 3 mm double-pointed needles for the armhole borders.

    Other supplies 2 buttons



    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Body

    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller needles, cast on 128(136)148(156)164 sts and work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm. Picot round: *k2tog, yarn over*, repeat *–* to end of round.

    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round. When the piece measures 23(24)26(29)30 cm from the picot round,separate the front and back for thearmholes: on the next round, work to last 3 sts, bind off next 6 sts for an armhole, 1 st on right-hand needle, work 57(61)67(71)75 front sts, bind off next 6 sts for the other armhole , work to end. 58(62)68(72)76 sts in the front and back. Leave the front sts on hold.

    Top back

    With the 58(62)68(72)76 back sts, work stockinette st flat. On every other row, bind off 1(2)2(3)3x2 sts and 2x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 50(50)56(56)60 sts.

    When the armhole measures 10(11)12(12)13 cm, bind off the middle 24(24)26(26)28 for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row, bind off 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(14)15 cm, leave the remaining 11(11)13(13)14 shoulder sts on hold.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Top front

    With the 58(62)68(72)76 front sts, work stockinette st flat starting with the WS row. On every other row, bind off 1(2)2(3)3x2 sts and 2x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 50(50)56(56)60 sts.

    When the armhole measures 3(3)4(4)5 cm, divide the sts into two groups for the slit: On the next RS row, work 23(23)26(26)28 sts and leave them on hold. Work to end of row and continue with the 27(27)30(30)32 sts on the left side of the slit.

    With 4 sts at the neckline edge, work garter st for the buttonband; with the other sts, work stockinette st.

    When the slit measures 1(2)2(2)2 cm, make a buttonhole: (RS) k1, k2tog, yarn over, work to end. Make another buttonhole after 2 cm.

    When the armhole measures 7(8)9(9)10 cm, on the next RS row knit the first 10(10)11(11)12 sts and leave them on hold for the neckline , work to end of row. On every other row, bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(14)15 cm, leave the remaining 11(11)13(13)14 shoulder sts on hold.

    Place the 23(23)26(26)28 sts on the other side of the neckline back onto the needles and pick up 4 additional sts from the left side of the slit, from behind the buttonband = 27(27)30(30)32 sts. Work garter st with the 4 buttonband sts and stockinette st with the other sts.

    When the armhole measures 7(8)9(9)10 cm, on a WS row knit the first 4 sts, p6(6)7(7)8, leave these 10(10)11(11)12 sts on hold for theneckline, work to end of row. On every other row, bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(14)15 cm, join the shoulders: Turn the work inside out. Place the left back shoulder sts back onto the needles and align the shoulders. Work the sts together as follows: Purl together the first st of both needles, then drop them off the needles. Work the second pair of sts in the same manner. Now pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Keep binding off as established. Alternatively, you can bind off all sts and sew the shoulder seam. Work the right shoulder in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Neckline: Place the neckline sts onto the smaller circular needle and with RS facing pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 85(85)87(89)91 sts. Work stockinette st flat for 2 rows. Picot row: (WS) p1, *p2tog, yarn over*, repeat *–* to end of row. Knit 1 row, then loosely bind off in purl.

    Armhole border: Using the double-pointed needles and with RS facing pick up sts from around the armhole, approx. 22 sts per 10 cm. Pick up an even number of sts. Work stockinette st in the round for 2 rounds. Picot round: *k2tog, yarn over*, repeat *–* to end of round. Knit 1 round, then loosely bind off in knit.

    Fold the hem, neckline and armhole borders at the picot row and sew the edges to the inside.

    Steam the top lightly. Attach the buttons.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 56(60)64(68)72 cm

    length 35(37)40(43)45 cm



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. Garter stitch (flat): knit all rows.

    Gauge 23 sts and 30 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Body

    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller needles, cast on 128(136)148(156)164 sts and work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm. Picot round: *k2tog, yarn over*, repeat *–* to end of round.

    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round. When the piece measures 23(24)26(29)30 cm from the picot round,separate the front and back for thearmholes: on the next round, work to last 3 sts, bind off next 6 sts for an armhole, 1 st on right-hand needle, work 57(61)67(71)75 front sts, bind off next 6 sts for the other armhole , work to end. 58(62)68(72)76 sts in the front and back. Leave the front sts on hold.

    Top back

    With the 58(62)68(72)76 back sts, work stockinette st flat. On every other row, bind off 1(2)2(3)3x2 sts and 2x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 50(50)56(56)60 sts.

    When the armhole measures 10(11)12(12)13 cm, bind off the middle 24(24)26(26)28 for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row, bind off 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(14)15 cm, leave the remaining 11(11)13(13)14 shoulder sts on hold.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

    Top front

    With the 58(62)68(72)76 front sts, work stockinette st flat starting with the WS row. On every other row, bind off 1(2)2(3)3x2 sts and 2x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 50(50)56(56)60 sts.

    When the armhole measures 3(3)4(4)5 cm, divide the sts into two groups for the slit: On the next RS row, work 23(23)26(26)28 sts and leave them on hold. Work to end of row and continue with the 27(27)30(30)32 sts on the left side of the slit.

    With 4 sts at the neckline edge, work garter st for the buttonband; with the other sts, work stockinette st.

    When the slit measures 1(2)2(2)2 cm, make a buttonhole: (RS) k1, k2tog, yarn over, work to end. Make another buttonhole after 2 cm.

    When the armhole measures 7(8)9(9)10 cm, on the next RS row knit the first 10(10)11(11)12 sts and leave them on hold for the neckline , work to end of row. On every other row, bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(14)15 cm, leave the remaining 11(11)13(13)14 shoulder sts on hold.

    Place the 23(23)26(26)28 sts on the other side of the neckline back onto the needles and pick up 4 additional sts from the left side of the slit, from behind the buttonband = 27(27)30(30)32 sts. Work garter st with the 4 buttonband sts and stockinette st with the other sts.

    When the armhole measures 7(8)9(9)10 cm, on a WS row knit the first 4 sts, p6(6)7(7)8, leave these 10(10)11(11)12 sts on hold for theneckline, work to end of row. On every other row, bind off 1x3 sts, 1x2 sts and 1x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(14)15 cm, join the shoulders: Turn the work inside out. Place the left back shoulder sts back onto the needles and align the shoulders. Work the sts together as follows: Purl together the first st of both needles, then drop them off the needles. Work the second pair of sts in the same manner. Now pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Keep binding off as established. Alternatively, you can bind off all sts and sew the shoulder seam. Work the right shoulder in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Neckline: Place the neckline sts onto the smaller circular needle and with RS facing pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 85(85)87(89)91 sts. Work stockinette st flat for 2 rows. Picot row: (WS) p1, *p2tog, yarn over*, repeat *–* to end of row. Knit 1 row, then loosely bind off in purl.

    Armhole border: Using the double-pointed needles and with RS facing pick up sts from around the armhole, approx. 22 sts per 10 cm. Pick up an even number of sts. Work stockinette st in the round for 2 rounds. Picot round: *k2tog, yarn over*, repeat *–* to end of round. Knit 1 round, then loosely bind off in knit.

    Fold the hem, neckline and armhole borders at the picot row and sew the edges to the inside.

    Steam the top lightly. Attach the buttons.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

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