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Novita Woolly Wood: Celesta wrap shirt

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There’s at least one wrap shirt in the wardrobe of every ballet dancer, as they’re a handy way to stay warm during ballet class. Knitted in pieces from Novita Woolly Wood, the sweater has beautiful, slightly baggy sleeves.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 14
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Woolly Wood: Celesta wrap shirt

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Novita Woolly Wood: Celesta wrap shirt
Novita Woolly Wood: Celesta wrap shirt

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N042114
    Pattern details
    Size
    S(M)L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand

    Novita Woolly Wood

    (043) Stone 450(500)550(600)650 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Needles Novita 3–3.5 mm (UK 10–11 / US 2½–4) and 3.5–4 mm (UK 8–9 / US 4–6) or sizes needed for gauge



    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Back

    Using the larger needles, cast on 91(99)109(119)129 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Work stockinette st. On the first row, evenly decrease 11(11)13(14)16 sts = 80(88)96(105)113 sts.

    When the piece measures 8 cm, increase 1 st at both ends: (RS) k2, m1L (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop), work to last 2 sts, m1R (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop), k2. Repeat the increases every 2(2)2.5(2.5)2.5 cm 8 more times = 98(106)114(123)131 sts.

    When the piece measures 27(28)29(39)31 cm, on every other row bind off for armholes at both ends: 1x5(5)7(7)9 sts, 0(1)1(1)1x3 sts, 2(1)1(2)2x2 sts and 2(3)3(3)3x1 st = 76(80)84(89)93 sts.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm, on the next WS row bind off 17(19)21(23)25 sts for shoulder, (note: there is already 1 st on the right-hand needle) knit the middle 42(42)42(43)43 neckline sts (= fold) and at the same time evenly decrease 6 sts (note: 1 st on the right-hand needle after the decreases), bind off 17(19)21(23)25 shoulder sts. Leave the remaining neckline sts on hold.

     

    Left front

    Using the larger needles, cast on 80(86)96(102)112 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p2, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Begin stockinette st: (RS) work 77(83)93(99)109 sts and at the same time evenly decrease 10(10)12(12)14 sts, p1, k2. 70(76)84(90)98 sts now on the needles. Work stockinette st while working 3 sts at the left end in ribbing. On the next RS row begin decreases at the front edge (left end): work to last 5 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), p1, k2. Repeat the decrease on every other row 50(52)56(58)62 more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 8 cm, begin increases at the right end. Work the increases as established in the back piece.

    Note: When the piece measures 27(28)29(39)31 cm, on every other row bind off for armhole at the right end: 1x5(5)7(7)9 sts, 0(1)1(1)1x3 sts, 2(1)1(2)2x2 sts and 2(3)3(3)3x1 st.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm, bind off the 17(19)21(23)25 shoulder sts.

     

    Right front

    Using the larger needles, cast on 80(86)96(102)112 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to last 2 sts, p2. Work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Begin stockinette st: (RS) k2, p1, work 77(83)93(99)109 sts and at the same time evenly decrease 10(10)12(12)14 sts. 70(76)84(90)98 sts now on the needles. Work stockinette st while working 3 sts at the right end in ribbing. On the next RS row begin decreases at the front edge (right end): k2, p1, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decrease on every other row 50(52)56(58)62 more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 8 cm, begin increases at the right end. Work the increases as established in the back piece.

    Note: When the piece measures 27(28)29(39)31 cm, on every other row bind off for armhole at the left end: 1x5(5)7(7)9 sts, 0(1)1(1)1x3 sts, 2(1)1(2)2x2 sts and 2(3)3(3)3x1 st.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm, bind off the 17(19)21(23)25 shoulder sts.

     

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 48(50)50(52)52 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1(p1)p1(k1)k1. Work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles. Work stockinette st and on the first row increase 20(20)20(20)22 sts: (RS) work 4(5)5(6)4 sts, *knit into the st below and k1 (same st), k1*, repeat *–* 19(19)19(19)21 more times, k4(5)5(6)4 = 68(70)70(72)74 sts.

    When the piece measures 27(21)18(15)15 cm, increase 1 st at both ends: (RS) k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1, k1. Repeat the increases every 0(14)8(7)6 cm 0(1)3(4)5 more times = 70(74)78(82)86 sts.

    When the piece measures 48(49)50(50)51 cm, on every other row bind off at both ends: 1x5(5)6(7)7 sts, 1x4 sts, 1x3 sts, 1(2)2(2)2x2 sts, 9(10)11(12)13x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x3 sts. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams. Place the back sts onto the smaller needles and pick up 1 st from the shoulder seams at both ends. Work stockinette st for 1.5 cm. Bind off. Fold the border at the purl row and sew the edge to the inside, tightening the neckline as you go.

    Sew the side seams, leaving a hole of approx. 2 cm for the drawstring above the hem ribbing at the right end.

    Sew the sleeve seams and attach the sleeves.

    With RS facing, pick up and knit sts from the front edge of the left front piece. Pick up 6 sts from the top edge of the ribbing and 2 sts from the stockinette section. With these 8 sts, work ribbing for 90 cm. Bind off in pattern. Knit a 60 cm long drawstring for the right front in the same manner.

     

     

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 90(98)106(114)122 cm / 35½(38½)41¾(45)48 in

    hem circumference 74(82)90(98)106 cm / 29¼(32¼)35½(38½)41¾ in

    length 46(48)50(52)54 cm / 18(19)19¾(20½)21¼ in

    inner sleeve length 48(49)50(50)51 cm / 19(19¼)19¾(19¾)20 in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On further rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.

    Gauge 21 sts and 28 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Back

    Using the larger needles, cast on 91(99)109(119)129 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Work stockinette st. On the first row, evenly decrease 11(11)13(14)16 sts = 80(88)96(105)113 sts.

    When the piece measures 8 cm, increase 1 st at both ends: (RS) k2, m1L (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop), work to last 2 sts, m1R (using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop), k2. Repeat the increases every 2(2)2.5(2.5)2.5 cm 8 more times = 98(106)114(123)131 sts.

    When the piece measures 27(28)29(39)31 cm, on every other row bind off for armholes at both ends: 1x5(5)7(7)9 sts, 0(1)1(1)1x3 sts, 2(1)1(2)2x2 sts and 2(3)3(3)3x1 st = 76(80)84(89)93 sts.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm, on the next WS row bind off 17(19)21(23)25 sts for shoulder, (note: there is already 1 st on the right-hand needle) knit the middle 42(42)42(43)43 neckline sts (= fold) and at the same time evenly decrease 6 sts (note: 1 st on the right-hand needle after the decreases), bind off 17(19)21(23)25 shoulder sts. Leave the remaining neckline sts on hold.

     

    Left front

    Using the larger needles, cast on 80(86)96(102)112 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p2, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Begin stockinette st: (RS) work 77(83)93(99)109 sts and at the same time evenly decrease 10(10)12(12)14 sts, p1, k2. 70(76)84(90)98 sts now on the needles. Work stockinette st while working 3 sts at the left end in ribbing. On the next RS row begin decreases at the front edge (left end): work to last 5 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), p1, k2. Repeat the decrease on every other row 50(52)56(58)62 more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 8 cm, begin increases at the right end. Work the increases as established in the back piece.

    Note: When the piece measures 27(28)29(39)31 cm, on every other row bind off for armhole at the right end: 1x5(5)7(7)9 sts, 0(1)1(1)1x3 sts, 2(1)1(2)2x2 sts and 2(3)3(3)3x1 st.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm, bind off the 17(19)21(23)25 shoulder sts.

     

    Right front

    Using the larger needles, cast on 80(86)96(102)112 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to last 2 sts, p2. Work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Begin stockinette st: (RS) k2, p1, work 77(83)93(99)109 sts and at the same time evenly decrease 10(10)12(12)14 sts. 70(76)84(90)98 sts now on the needles. Work stockinette st while working 3 sts at the right end in ribbing. On the next RS row begin decreases at the front edge (right end): k2, p1, k2tog, work to end. Repeat the decrease on every other row 50(52)56(58)62 more times.

    Note: When the piece measures 8 cm, begin increases at the right end. Work the increases as established in the back piece.

    Note: When the piece measures 27(28)29(39)31 cm, on every other row bind off for armhole at the left end: 1x5(5)7(7)9 sts, 0(1)1(1)1x3 sts, 2(1)1(2)2x2 sts and 2(3)3(3)3x1 st.

    When the armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23 cm, bind off the 17(19)21(23)25 shoulder sts.

     

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 48(50)50(52)52 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1(p1)p1(k1)k1. Work ribbing for 6 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles. Work stockinette st and on the first row increase 20(20)20(20)22 sts: (RS) work 4(5)5(6)4 sts, *knit into the st below and k1 (same st), k1*, repeat *–* 19(19)19(19)21 more times, k4(5)5(6)4 = 68(70)70(72)74 sts.

    When the piece measures 27(21)18(15)15 cm, increase 1 st at both ends: (RS) k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1, k1. Repeat the increases every 0(14)8(7)6 cm 0(1)3(4)5 more times = 70(74)78(82)86 sts.

    When the piece measures 48(49)50(50)51 cm, on every other row bind off at both ends: 1x5(5)6(7)7 sts, 1x4 sts, 1x3 sts, 1(2)2(2)2x2 sts, 9(10)11(12)13x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x3 sts. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the shoulder seams. Place the back sts onto the smaller needles and pick up 1 st from the shoulder seams at both ends. Work stockinette st for 1.5 cm. Bind off. Fold the border at the purl row and sew the edge to the inside, tightening the neckline as you go.

    Sew the side seams, leaving a hole of approx. 2 cm for the drawstring above the hem ribbing at the right end.

    Sew the sleeve seams and attach the sleeves.

    With RS facing, pick up and knit sts from the front edge of the left front piece. Pick up 6 sts from the top edge of the ribbing and 2 sts from the stockinette section. With these 8 sts, work ribbing for 90 cm. Bind off in pattern. Knit a 60 cm long drawstring for the right front in the same manner.

     

     


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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