Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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Novita Venla
(285) Saffron <100 g
Cast on 50 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles: 12+13+12+13 sts. Work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm.
Work ribbing and begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart: on needles I and II, work the 25 st lace pattern; on needles III and IV (25 sts), work ribbing as established. Work rows 2–20 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–20.
When the leg measures 13 cm, turn work, purl the sts on needles IV and III onto the same needle and at the same time decrease 1 st: purl together the last 2 sts of the round = 24 sts. Leave the other sts on hold.
Turn work and begin the reinforced stitch pattern for the heel flap:
Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *–* to end.
Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.
Work rows 1–2 a total of 12 times (= 24 rows).
Begin French heel turn:
Row 1: (RS) slip 1 with yarn in back, k13, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in front, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Row 3: slip 1 with yarn in back, knit to last st before gap, skp, k1. Turn work.
Row 4: slip 1 with yarn in front, purl to last st before gap, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 3–4 until there are 14 sts on the needles. Finish with a WS row. Knit the sts and divide them onto two needles, 7 sts each.
Using a free needle, pick up 12 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle I. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle IV which has 7 sts. On needles I and II, work the lace pattern. Using needle III (7 sts), pick up 12 sts from the right end of the flap + 1 st from between needle II and the flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and k7. The beginning of round is still at the side of the sock.
Work stockinette st in the sole and lace pattern in the instep and begin gusset decreases: at the beginning of needle III, skp; at the end of needle IV, k2tog. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 51 sts remain and then decrease once more at the beginning of needle III as established = 50 sts.
Work as established until the sole measures approx. 15 cm or until the sock covers the fifth toe. Finish with an odd-numbered row of the chart.
With all sts, work stockinette st and begin toe decreases: at the beginning of needle I, k1, skp; at the end of needle II, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needle III, p1, skp; at the end of needle IV, k2tog, p1. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 22 sts remain. Redistribute the sts onto two needles, 11 sts each on instep and sole. Graft the sts together.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Steam the socks lightly.
Stitch patterns
Ribbing in the round:
*k1, p1*
Cast on 50 sts and divide them onto four double-pointed needles: 12+13+12+13 sts. Work ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm.
Work ribbing and begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart: on needles I and II, work the 25 st lace pattern; on needles III and IV (25 sts), work ribbing as established. Work rows 2–20 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–20.
When the leg measures 13 cm, turn work, purl the sts on needles IV and III onto the same needle and at the same time decrease 1 st: purl together the last 2 sts of the round = 24 sts. Leave the other sts on hold.
Turn work and begin the reinforced stitch pattern for the heel flap:
Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *–* to end.
Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.
Work rows 1–2 a total of 12 times (= 24 rows).
Begin French heel turn:
Row 1: (RS) slip 1 with yarn in back, k13, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Turn work.
Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in front, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Row 3: slip 1 with yarn in back, knit to last st before gap, skp, k1. Turn work.
Row 4: slip 1 with yarn in front, purl to last st before gap, p2tog, p1. Turn work.
Keep repeating rows 3–4 until there are 14 sts on the needles. Finish with a WS row. Knit the sts and divide them onto two needles, 7 sts each.
Using a free needle, pick up 12 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle I. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle IV which has 7 sts. On needles I and II, work the lace pattern. Using needle III (7 sts), pick up 12 sts from the right end of the flap + 1 st from between needle II and the flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and k7. The beginning of round is still at the side of the sock.
Work stockinette st in the sole and lace pattern in the instep and begin gusset decreases: at the beginning of needle III, skp; at the end of needle IV, k2tog. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 51 sts remain and then decrease once more at the beginning of needle III as established = 50 sts.
Work as established until the sole measures approx. 15 cm or until the sock covers the fifth toe. Finish with an odd-numbered row of the chart.
With all sts, work stockinette st and begin toe decreases: at the beginning of needle I, k1, skp; at the end of needle II, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needle III, p1, skp; at the end of needle IV, k2tog, p1. Repeat the decreases on every other round until 22 sts remain. Redistribute the sts onto two needles, 11 sts each on instep and sole. Graft the sts together.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Steam the socks lightly.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.