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Novita Venla: Aattoyö (Christmas Night) colourwork socks

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Designed by Kati Rahikainen, the Aattoyö socks are full of delightful details depicting a starry Christmas night and a mountain hare that sees Santa and his sleigh rise above the fells. The cuffs of the socks are adorned by a texture inspired by Christmas trees, the legs feature Santa himself travelling through the snow with his reindeer, and in the toes, there are animals in their winter coats, looking on in wonder. The red details of Santa’s suit, along with Rudolph’s nose, are embroidered on the finished sock. The socks are knitted using Novita Venla.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 33
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Venla: Aattoyö (Christmas Night) colourwork socks

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Novita Venla: Aattoyö (Christmas Night) colourwork socks
Novita Venla: Aattoyö (Christmas Night) colourwork socks

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€0.00

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N042133
    Pattern details
    Size
    Yksi koko

    Yarn demand

    Novita Venla

    (010) Off White 100 g

    (170) Navy 100 g  

    some red Venla-weight yarn for embroidering



    Needles and other supplies

    Double-pointed needles Novita 2–2.5 mm (UK 13–14 / US 0–1½) and 2.5–3 mm (UK 11–12 / US 1½–2½) or sizes needed



    Designer
    Kati Rahikainen

    Details

    Using the smaller needles and Navy, cast on 90 sts and divide them onto four needles. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV, at the back midpoint.

    Begin the textured rib pattern on row 1 of chart I. Repeat the 18 st pattern 5 times. Work rows 2–40 of the chart.

    Knit 1 round with Navy and evenly increase 2 sts = 92 sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II. Work the 92 st pattern. Work rows 2–52 of the chart. Work the calf decreases following the chart. 86 sts on the needles.

    Now work rows 53–112 of chart III. Work the calf decreases following the chart. 68 sts on the needles. Redistribute the sts so that there are 17 sts on all needles.

    Begin the hourglass heel using Navy.

    Row 1: (RS) using Navy knit the sts of needle I, then turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) Slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch on the right-hand needle. Purl the remaining sts on needles I and IV, then turn work.

    Row 3: (RS) Slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch. Knit to double st, turn work.

    Row 4: (WS) Slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch. Purl to double st, turn work.

    Keep working short rows as established until there are 12 sts in the centre and you are between needles IV and I, at the beginning of round. The heel is now shaped like a triangle.

    With all sts, work one round following row 113 of chart IV. Work the loops of the double sts together. You are again at the beginning of round, between needles IV and I. Proceed with Navy.

    Hourglass heel increases:

    Row 1: (RS) k7 on needle I, turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) Slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch, purl needle I, p7 on needle IV, turn work.

    Row 3: (RS) slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch, knit needle IV, k8 on needle I (knit the loops of the double st together), turn work.

    Row 4: (WS) slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch, purl needle I, p8 on needle IV (purl the loops of the double st together), turn work.

    Keep working long rows as established: on each row, make a double st at the beginning and at the end work 1 st more (work the loops of the double st together). Work until all sts are back on the needles and you’ve just worked needle IV on a RS row. You are now at the beginning of round, between needles IV and I.

    With all sts, resume the colourwork pattern on row 114 of row IV. Work rows 115–161 of the chart.

    After completing the pattern, work stockinette st in the round using Off White for 2 rounds or until the sock covers the fifth toe.

    Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over). Work the decreases on every other round 9 times in total. Then repeat the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain. Break yarn, pull it through the sts and tighten. Weave in ends.

     

    Finishing

    Embroider the red details (Santa, Rudolph’s nose) using duplicate sts. Weave in. Steam the socks lightly.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    ""

    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Textured ribbing in the round: work following the chart and instructions. Colourwork in the round: work following the chart and instructions.

    Gauge 30 sts and 38 rows in colourwork with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Using the smaller needles and Navy, cast on 90 sts and divide them onto four needles. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV, at the back midpoint.

    Begin the textured rib pattern on row 1 of chart I. Repeat the 18 st pattern 5 times. Work rows 2–40 of the chart.

    Knit 1 round with Navy and evenly increase 2 sts = 92 sts.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II. Work the 92 st pattern. Work rows 2–52 of the chart. Work the calf decreases following the chart. 86 sts on the needles.

    Now work rows 53–112 of chart III. Work the calf decreases following the chart. 68 sts on the needles. Redistribute the sts so that there are 17 sts on all needles.

    Begin the hourglass heel using Navy.

    Row 1: (RS) using Navy knit the sts of needle I, then turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) Slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch on the right-hand needle. Purl the remaining sts on needles I and IV, then turn work.

    Row 3: (RS) Slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch. Knit to double st, turn work.

    Row 4: (WS) Slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch. Purl to double st, turn work.

    Keep working short rows as established until there are 12 sts in the centre and you are between needles IV and I, at the beginning of round. The heel is now shaped like a triangle.

    With all sts, work one round following row 113 of chart IV. Work the loops of the double sts together. You are again at the beginning of round, between needles IV and I. Proceed with Navy.

    Hourglass heel increases:

    Row 1: (RS) k7 on needle I, turn work.

    Row 2: (WS) Slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch, purl needle I, p7 on needle IV, turn work.

    Row 3: (RS) slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch, knit needle IV, k8 on needle I (knit the loops of the double st together), turn work.

    Row 4: (WS) slip 1 purlwise and tighten the yarn so that the loops form a double stitch, purl needle I, p8 on needle IV (purl the loops of the double st together), turn work.

    Keep working long rows as established: on each row, make a double st at the beginning and at the end work 1 st more (work the loops of the double st together). Work until all sts are back on the needles and you’ve just worked needle IV on a RS row. You are now at the beginning of round, between needles IV and I.

    With all sts, resume the colourwork pattern on row 114 of row IV. Work rows 115–161 of the chart.

    After completing the pattern, work stockinette st in the round using Off White for 2 rounds or until the sock covers the fifth toe.

    Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over). Work the decreases on every other round 9 times in total. Then repeat the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain. Break yarn, pull it through the sts and tighten. Weave in ends.

     

    Finishing

    Embroider the red details (Santa, Rudolph’s nose) using duplicate sts. Weave in. Steam the socks lightly.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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