Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
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Novita Suomivilla
(010) Off White 600(650)700(750)800(850) g
Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3½ mm (US 4) and 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or sizes needed for gauge; 3½ mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the neckline; 3½ mm and 4 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves, if you won't use the Magic Loop technique.
Body
The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and scrap yarn, cast on 132(140)148(154)162(170) sts. Join for working in the round. Join Off White.
Round 1: *k1, yarn over*, repeat *-* to end of round = 264(280)296(308)324(340) sts.
Round 2: *slip 1 with yarn in back, purl the yo of the previous round*, repeat *-* to end of round.
Round 3: *k1, slip 1 with yarn in front*, repeat *-* to end of round.
Unravel the provisional cast-on.
Work ribbing in the round until the piece measures 6 cm.
Switch to the larger circular needle (80 cm) and begin working double seed st and cables following row 1 of chart I: *work 32 sts at the right end of the chart, repeat 6 st pattern 7 times, work 32 sts at the left end, work 26(34)42(48)56(64) sts in double seed st*. Repeat *-* once more. At the cable sections, work rows 2-24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-24. At the double seed st sections, work rows 2-4 and then keep repeating rows 1-4.
When the piece measures 45(45)46(47)50(52) cm and you have last worked an odd-numbered row of the cable chart, *work 106 sts following next row of the cable chart, work 8(12)15(18)22(25) sts in double seed st, bind off next 10(10)12(12)12(14) sts for an armhole, work next 8(12)15(18)22(25) in double seed st (including 1 st left from the bind-off)*, repeat *-* once more. Leave the 122(130)136(142)150(156) front sts on hold.
Top back
With the next 122(130)136(142)150(156) sts (back), work back and forth. Keep working the middle 106 sts following the cable pattern and work double seed st at both ends. On every other row bind off 2(3)3(3)4(4)x2 sts and 3(3)3(4)3(4)x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 108(112)118(122)128(132) sts.
When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)23(24) cm, bind off the middle 44(44)44(46)46(46) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 1x2 sts and 1x1 st at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 22(23)24(25)25(26) cm, bind off the 29(31)34(35)38(40) shoulder sts.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Top front
Work like back until the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)16(17) cm, then leave the middle 38(38)38(40)40(40) sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 22(23)24(25)25(26) cm, bind off the 29(31)34(35)38(40) shoulder sts.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Sleeves
Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
Using the smaller needles and scrap yarn, cast on 31(31)32(32)33(33) sts. Join for working in the round. Join Off White.
Round 1: *k1, yarn over*, repeat *-* to end of round = 62(62)64(64)66(66) sts.
Round 2: *slip 1 with yarn in back, purl the yo of the previous round*, repeat *-* to end of round.
Round 3: *k1, slip 1 with yarn in front*, repeat *-* to end of round.
Unravel the provisional cast-on.
Work ribbing in the round until the piece measures 6 cm.
Switch to the larger needles and begin working seed st and cables following row 1 of chart II: work 15 sts at the right end of the chart, repeat 6 st pattern 4 times, work 15 sts at the left end, work 8(8)10(10)12(12) sts in double seed st. At the cable sections, work rows 2-24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-24. At the double seed st sections, work rows 2-4 and then keep repeating rows 1-4.
When the piece measures 7(9)7(12)9(8) cm, increase 1 st at both ends of the double seed st section: knit or purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop as required to maintain the seed st pattern. Repeat the increases every 3(2,5)2,5(2)2(2) cm 14(16)17(19)20(22) more times. Work the increased sts following the seed st pattern = 92(96)100(104)108(112) sts.
When the piece measures approx. 50(51)52(53)53(54) cm and you have last worked an odd-numbered row of the cable chart, work 54 sts following next row of the cable chart, work 14(16)18(19)21(23) sts in double seed st, bind off next 10(10)10(12)12(12) sts.
Work back and forth. On every other row bind off at both ends: 1x3 sts, 3(4)4(4)5(5)x2 sts, 11(11)12(12)12(13)x1 st, 2(2)2(3)3(3)x2 sts, 1x3 sts and 1x4 sts. Bind off the remaining sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams.
Neckline: Using the circular needle (40 cm) pick up and knit the sts you left on hold as well as additional sts from the neckline edge for 120(122)122(124)124(126) sts in total. Start at one of the shoulder seams. Work stockinette st in the round for 2 rounds, purl 1 round and then work ribbing in the round. When the border measures 6 cm, loosely bind off. Fold the neckline and sew the edge to the inside.
Attach the sleeves.
Size S(M)L(XL)XXL(3XL)
Dimensions when completed
body circumference 108(116)124(132)140(148) cm / 42½(45¾)48¾(52)55(58¼) in
length 67(68)70(72)75(78) cm / 26½(26¾)27½(28¼)29½(30¾) in
inner sleeve length 50(51)52(53)53(54) cm / 19¾(20)20½(20¾)20¾(21¼) in
Stitch patterns
Ribbing in the round:
*k1, p1*, repeat *-*. Double seed stitch: Row 1:
*k1, p1*, repeat *-* to end of row. Rows 2 and 4: knit the knit
sts and purl the purl sts. Row 3: *p1, k1*
Body
The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the smaller circular needle (80 cm) and scrap yarn, cast on 132(140)148(154)162(170) sts. Join for working in the round. Join Off White.
Round 1: *k1, yarn over*, repeat *-* to end of round = 264(280)296(308)324(340) sts.
Round 2: *slip 1 with yarn in back, purl the yo of the previous round*, repeat *-* to end of round.
Round 3: *k1, slip 1 with yarn in front*, repeat *-* to end of round.
Unravel the provisional cast-on.
Work ribbing in the round until the piece measures 6 cm.
Switch to the larger circular needle (80 cm) and begin working double seed st and cables following row 1 of chart I: *work 32 sts at the right end of the chart, repeat 6 st pattern 7 times, work 32 sts at the left end, work 26(34)42(48)56(64) sts in double seed st*. Repeat *-* once more. At the cable sections, work rows 2-24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-24. At the double seed st sections, work rows 2-4 and then keep repeating rows 1-4.
When the piece measures 45(45)46(47)50(52) cm and you have last worked an odd-numbered row of the cable chart, *work 106 sts following next row of the cable chart, work 8(12)15(18)22(25) sts in double seed st, bind off next 10(10)12(12)12(14) sts for an armhole, work next 8(12)15(18)22(25) in double seed st (including 1 st left from the bind-off)*, repeat *-* once more. Leave the 122(130)136(142)150(156) front sts on hold.
Top back
With the next 122(130)136(142)150(156) sts (back), work back and forth. Keep working the middle 106 sts following the cable pattern and work double seed st at both ends. On every other row bind off 2(3)3(3)4(4)x2 sts and 3(3)3(4)3(4)x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 108(112)118(122)128(132) sts.
When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)23(24) cm, bind off the middle 44(44)44(46)46(46) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 1x2 sts and 1x1 st at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 22(23)24(25)25(26) cm, bind off the 29(31)34(35)38(40) shoulder sts.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Top front
Work like back until the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)16(17) cm, then leave the middle 38(38)38(40)40(40) sts on hold for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 22(23)24(25)25(26) cm, bind off the 29(31)34(35)38(40) shoulder sts.
Knit the other side in the same manner.
Sleeves
Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
Using the smaller needles and scrap yarn, cast on 31(31)32(32)33(33) sts. Join for working in the round. Join Off White.
Round 1: *k1, yarn over*, repeat *-* to end of round = 62(62)64(64)66(66) sts.
Round 2: *slip 1 with yarn in back, purl the yo of the previous round*, repeat *-* to end of round.
Round 3: *k1, slip 1 with yarn in front*, repeat *-* to end of round.
Unravel the provisional cast-on.
Work ribbing in the round until the piece measures 6 cm.
Switch to the larger needles and begin working seed st and cables following row 1 of chart II: work 15 sts at the right end of the chart, repeat 6 st pattern 4 times, work 15 sts at the left end, work 8(8)10(10)12(12) sts in double seed st. At the cable sections, work rows 2-24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-24. At the double seed st sections, work rows 2-4 and then keep repeating rows 1-4.
When the piece measures 7(9)7(12)9(8) cm, increase 1 st at both ends of the double seed st section: knit or purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop as required to maintain the seed st pattern. Repeat the increases every 3(2,5)2,5(2)2(2) cm 14(16)17(19)20(22) more times. Work the increased sts following the seed st pattern = 92(96)100(104)108(112) sts.
When the piece measures approx. 50(51)52(53)53(54) cm and you have last worked an odd-numbered row of the cable chart, work 54 sts following next row of the cable chart, work 14(16)18(19)21(23) sts in double seed st, bind off next 10(10)10(12)12(12) sts.
Work back and forth. On every other row bind off at both ends: 1x3 sts, 3(4)4(4)5(5)x2 sts, 11(11)12(12)12(13)x1 st, 2(2)2(3)3(3)x2 sts, 1x3 sts and 1x4 sts. Bind off the remaining sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams.
Neckline: Using the circular needle (40 cm) pick up and knit the sts you left on hold as well as additional sts from the neckline edge for 120(122)122(124)124(126) sts in total. Start at one of the shoulder seams. Work stockinette st in the round for 2 rounds, purl 1 round and then work ribbing in the round. When the border measures 6 cm, loosely bind off. Fold the neckline and sew the edge to the inside.
Attach the sleeves.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.