Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Nordic Wool: Juurakko cardigan
As low as €6.96
The criss-crossing cables of the Juurakko cardigan are reminiscent of tree roots. Knitted from Novita Nordic Wool.
Novita Syksy 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
14
Expert
Availability: In stock
N032014
Size
XS/S(M)L(XL)XXLYarn demand
Novita Nordic Wool
(649) Squirrel 950(1000)1050(1150)1200 g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 4½ mm (UK 7 / US 7) and 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or sizes needed; a second 4½ mm circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) for the border; cable needle
Designer
Sari NordlundBack
Using the smaller needles cast on 142(150)158(166)174 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 12 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Starting on row 1 of chart I work in double seed st and cable pattern as follows: repeat section A 6(8)10(12)14 times [= 12(16)20(24)28 sts], work section B (= 35 sts), section C (= 48 sts), section D (= 35 sts), repeat section E 6(8)10(12)14 times [= 12(16)20(24)28 sts]. At sections A, B, D and E work rows 2-16 and then keep repeating rows 1-16. At section C work rows 2-48 and then keep repeating rows 1-48.
When the piece measures 20(21)21(22)22 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: k2tog or p2tog as needed to maintain double seed st pattern. Repeat the decreases every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 126(134)142(150)158 sts.
When the piece measures 75(76)77(79)80 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(6)6(7)7 sts, 1x3 sts, 2(2)3(3)3x2 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 96(102)106(112)118 sts.
When the armhole measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm, on every other row bind off 3x9(10)10(11)12 sts at both ends. Securely bind off the remaining 42(42)46(46)46 sts.
Left front
Using the smaller needles cast on 73(77)81(85)89 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 12 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Starting on row 1 of chart II work in double seed st and cable pattern as follows: work the 1 st at the right end of the chart, repeat section A 6(8)10(12)14 times [= 12(16)20(24)28 sts], work section B (= 34 sts) and section C (= 26 sts). At sections A and B work rows 2-16 and then keep repeating rows 1-16. At section C work rows 2-48 and then keep repeating rows 1-48.
When the piece measures 20(21)21(22)22 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end: k2tog or p2tog as needed to maintain double seed st pattern. Repeat the decrease every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 65(69)73(77)81 sts.
When the piece measures 70(71)72(74)75 cm, begin neckline decreases on the next RS row: work to last 3 sts, k2tog, p1. Repeat the decrease 16(14)17(17)16 more times on every other row and 6(8)7(7)8 times every 4th row.
Note: When the piece measures 75(76)77(79)80 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(6)6(7)7 sts, 1x3 sts, 2(2)3(3)3x2 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x1 st at the right end for the armhole.
When the armhole measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm, on every other row bind off 3x9(10)10(11)12 sts at the right end.
Right front
Using the smaller needles cast on 73(77)81(85)89 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 12 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Starting on row 1 of chart II work in double seed st and cable pattern as follows: work section C (= 26 sts), section D (= 34 sts), repeat section E 6(8)10(12)14 times [= 12(16)20(24)28 sts], work the 1 st at the left end of the chart. At section C work rows 2-48 and then keep repeating rows 1-48. At sections D and E work rows 2-16 and then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 20(21)21(22)22 cm, decrease 1 st at the left end: k2tog or p2tog as needed to maintain double seed st pattern. Repeat the decrease every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 65(69)73(77)81 sts.
When the piece measures 70(71)72(74)75 cm, begin neckline decreases on the next RS row: p1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to end. Repeat the decrease 16(14)17(17)16 more times on every other row and then 6(8)7(7)8 times every 4th row.
Note: When the piece measures 75(76)77(79)80 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(6)6(7)7 sts, 1x3 sts, 2(2)3(3)3x2 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x1 st at the left end for the armhole.
When the armhole measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm, on every other row bind off 3x9(10)10(11)12 sts at the left end for the shoulder.
Sleeves
Using the smaller needles cast on 71(73)73(75)75 sts and work ribbing for 12 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Starting on row 1 of chart I work in double seed st and cable pattern as follows: work 0(1)1(0)0 st at the right end of the chart, repeat section A 9(9)9(10)10 times [= 18(18)18(20)20 sts], work section B (= 35 sts), repeat section E 9(9)9(10)10 times [= 18(18)18(20)20 sts], work the 0(1)1(0)0 at the left end. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 17(16)15(16)17 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 5,5(5)4(4,5)3,5 cm 5(6)8(7)9 more times = 83(87)91(91)95 sts. Work the increased sts in double seed st.
When the piece measures 50(51)51(52)52 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(6)6(7)7 sts, 0(1)1(1)1x4 sts, 2(1)1(1)1x3 sts, 2x2 sts, 12(12)13(13)14x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x4 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner, but instead of section B work section D of chart I.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams.
Border: Using the smaller needles pick up and knit sts from the RS of the work. Starting at the bottom edge of the right front pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows, place marker at the starting point of the neckline slanting, continue up to the shoulder seam, pick up 41(41)43(43)43 sts from the back neckline, continue to the starting point of the neckline slanting, place marker, continue along the left front edge. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st.
Begin ribbing: (WS) p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-*, p2.
After 2 rows in ribbing, begin short rows: (WS) work ribbing to last st before second marker. Turn work, yarn over. Work to last st before first marker. Turn work, yarn over. *Work to last 6 sts before next yo, turn work and yarn over*, repeat *-* until there are 9 yarn overs on both sides.
On the next row work ribbing to end. At the same time knit or purl the yarn overs together with the sts after them: k2tog if the next st is a knit st and p2tog if a purl st.
Work ribbing for 3 rows. On the first row work the remaining yarn overs together with the sts after them: skp if the next st is a knit st and ssp if it is a purl st (= slip 2 sts knitwise one by one from left-hand needle to right-hand needle, move both sts back to left-hand needle and purl them together through the back loop).
Repeat the short rows. After that, work ribbing, working the yarn overs together with the sts before them on the first two rows as established.
When the border measures 7 cm from the bottom, bind off in pattern.
Attach the sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Belt: Using the smaller needles cast on 12 sts and work garter stitch for 160(160)170(170)170 cm. Bind off.
Finished dimensions
body circumference 94(102)110(118)126 cm / 37(40¼)43¼(46½)49½ in
length 98(100)102(104)106 cm / 38½(39¼)40¼(41)41¾ in
inner sleeve length 50(51)51(52)52 cm / 19¾(20)20(20½)20½ in
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Double seed stitch and cable pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Garter stitch: knit all rows.
Gauge 20 sts and 25 rows in double seed st with larger needles or approx. 27 sts in cable pattern with larger needles (steamed) = 10 cm / 4 in
Back
Using the smaller needles cast on 142(150)158(166)174 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 12 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Starting on row 1 of chart I work in double seed st and cable pattern as follows: repeat section A 6(8)10(12)14 times [= 12(16)20(24)28 sts], work section B (= 35 sts), section C (= 48 sts), section D (= 35 sts), repeat section E 6(8)10(12)14 times [= 12(16)20(24)28 sts]. At sections A, B, D and E work rows 2-16 and then keep repeating rows 1-16. At section C work rows 2-48 and then keep repeating rows 1-48.
When the piece measures 20(21)21(22)22 cm, decrease 1 st at both ends: k2tog or p2tog as needed to maintain double seed st pattern. Repeat the decreases every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 126(134)142(150)158 sts.
When the piece measures 75(76)77(79)80 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(6)6(7)7 sts, 1x3 sts, 2(2)3(3)3x2 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 96(102)106(112)118 sts.
When the armhole measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm, on every other row bind off 3x9(10)10(11)12 sts at both ends. Securely bind off the remaining 42(42)46(46)46 sts.
Left front
Using the smaller needles cast on 73(77)81(85)89 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 12 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Starting on row 1 of chart II work in double seed st and cable pattern as follows: work the 1 st at the right end of the chart, repeat section A 6(8)10(12)14 times [= 12(16)20(24)28 sts], work section B (= 34 sts) and section C (= 26 sts). At sections A and B work rows 2-16 and then keep repeating rows 1-16. At section C work rows 2-48 and then keep repeating rows 1-48.
When the piece measures 20(21)21(22)22 cm, decrease 1 st at the right end: k2tog or p2tog as needed to maintain double seed st pattern. Repeat the decrease every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 65(69)73(77)81 sts.
When the piece measures 70(71)72(74)75 cm, begin neckline decreases on the next RS row: work to last 3 sts, k2tog, p1. Repeat the decrease 16(14)17(17)16 more times on every other row and 6(8)7(7)8 times every 4th row.
Note: When the piece measures 75(76)77(79)80 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(6)6(7)7 sts, 1x3 sts, 2(2)3(3)3x2 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x1 st at the right end for the armhole.
When the armhole measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm, on every other row bind off 3x9(10)10(11)12 sts at the right end.
Right front
Using the smaller needles cast on 73(77)81(85)89 sts and begin ribbing on the WS with k1. Work ribbing for 12 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Starting on row 1 of chart II work in double seed st and cable pattern as follows: work section C (= 26 sts), section D (= 34 sts), repeat section E 6(8)10(12)14 times [= 12(16)20(24)28 sts], work the 1 st at the left end of the chart. At section C work rows 2-48 and then keep repeating rows 1-48. At sections D and E work rows 2-16 and then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 20(21)21(22)22 cm, decrease 1 st at the left end: k2tog or p2tog as needed to maintain double seed st pattern. Repeat the decrease every 7,5 cm 7 more times = 65(69)73(77)81 sts.
When the piece measures 70(71)72(74)75 cm, begin neckline decreases on the next RS row: p1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work to end. Repeat the decrease 16(14)17(17)16 more times on every other row and then 6(8)7(7)8 times every 4th row.
Note: When the piece measures 75(76)77(79)80 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(6)6(7)7 sts, 1x3 sts, 2(2)3(3)3x2 sts and 3(3)3(3)4x1 st at the left end for the armhole.
When the armhole measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm, on every other row bind off 3x9(10)10(11)12 sts at the left end for the shoulder.
Sleeves
Using the smaller needles cast on 71(73)73(75)75 sts and work ribbing for 12 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Starting on row 1 of chart I work in double seed st and cable pattern as follows: work 0(1)1(0)0 st at the right end of the chart, repeat section A 9(9)9(10)10 times [= 18(18)18(20)20 sts], work section B (= 35 sts), repeat section E 9(9)9(10)10 times [= 18(18)18(20)20 sts], work the 0(1)1(0)0 at the left end. Work rows 2-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-16.
When the piece measures 17(16)15(16)17 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 5,5(5)4(4,5)3,5 cm 5(6)8(7)9 more times = 83(87)91(91)95 sts. Work the increased sts in double seed st.
When the piece measures 50(51)51(52)52 cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(6)6(7)7 sts, 0(1)1(1)1x4 sts, 2(1)1(1)1x3 sts, 2x2 sts, 12(12)13(13)14x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x4 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner, but instead of section B work section D of chart I.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams.
Border: Using the smaller needles pick up and knit sts from the RS of the work. Starting at the bottom edge of the right front pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows, place marker at the starting point of the neckline slanting, continue up to the shoulder seam, pick up 41(41)43(43)43 sts from the back neckline, continue to the starting point of the neckline slanting, place marker, continue along the left front edge. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st.
Begin ribbing: (WS) p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-*, p2.
After 2 rows in ribbing, begin short rows: (WS) work ribbing to last st before second marker. Turn work, yarn over. Work to last st before first marker. Turn work, yarn over. *Work to last 6 sts before next yo, turn work and yarn over*, repeat *-* until there are 9 yarn overs on both sides.
On the next row work ribbing to end. At the same time knit or purl the yarn overs together with the sts after them: k2tog if the next st is a knit st and p2tog if a purl st.
Work ribbing for 3 rows. On the first row work the remaining yarn overs together with the sts after them: skp if the next st is a knit st and ssp if it is a purl st (= slip 2 sts knitwise one by one from left-hand needle to right-hand needle, move both sts back to left-hand needle and purl them together through the back loop).
Repeat the short rows. After that, work ribbing, working the yarn overs together with the sts before them on the first two rows as established.
When the border measures 7 cm from the bottom, bind off in pattern.
Attach the sleeves. Sew the sleeve seams.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Belt: Using the smaller needles cast on 12 sts and work garter stitch for 160(160)170(170)170 cm. Bind off.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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