Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Natura: Venny cabled tunic
As low as €5.95
Venny is a true tour de force for the experienced knitter. Sari Nordlund designed this tunic, using crossing cables and bobbles to create a classic, beautiful garment. The ¾ sleeves give the heavy tunic a slightly lighter look.
Novita Talvi 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
38
Expert
Availability: In stock
N042038
Size
S(M)L/XL(XXL)3XLYarn demand
Novita Natura
(010) Off White 800(850)900(950)1000(1050) g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8); 2 circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 6 mm (UK 4 / US 10), or sizes needed; 5 mm circular needle (40 cm / 16 in) for the neckline; 5 mm and 6 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves, if you don't use the Magic Loop technique https://www.novitaknits.com/fi/neulekoulu/kahdet-sukat-kerralla-magic-loop-tekniikalla
Designer
Sari NordlundBack hem
Using the smaller needles cast on 115(121)127(133)137(143) sts. Begin ribbing on the WS with k1(p1)k1(p1)p1(k1). Work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in total in ribbing, then k1, p6, k1, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* 20 more times, k1, p6, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Work ribbing and begin the cable pattern on row 2 of the chart as follows: work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in ribbing, work section B (= 8 sts) of the chart, work 43 sts in ribbing, work section D (= 8 sts), work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in ribbing. Work rows 2-24 of the chart, then work rows 1-5. Leave the back sts on hold.
Front hem
Using the smaller needles cast on 115(121)127(133)137(143) sts. Begin ribbing on the WS with k1(p1)k1(p1)p1(k1). Work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in total in ribbing, then k1, p6, k1, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* 20 more times, k1, p6, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Work ribbing and begin the cable pattern on row 14 of the chart as follows: work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in ribbing, work section B (= 8 sts), work 43 sts in ribbing, work section D (= 8 sts), work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in ribbing. Work rows 15-24 of the chart, then work rows 1-5. Do not break yarn.
Body
The body is knitted in the round up to the armholes. Front: work 2(5)8(11)13(16) sts in ribbing, work row 1 of section A (= 26 sts), work row 6 of section B (= 8 sts), work row 1 of section C (= 43-1 sts), work row 6 of section D (= 8 sts), work row 1 of section E (= 26 sts), work 1(4)7(10)12(15) sts in seed st. Knit or purl the last front st and first back st together as required to maintain pattern. Back: work 1(4)7(10)12(15) sts in seed st, work row 1 of section A (= 26 sts), work row 6 of section B (= 8 sts), work row 1 of section C (= 43-1 sts), work row 6 of section D (= 8 sts), work row 1 of section E (= 26 sts), work 1(4)7(10)12(15) sts in seed st. Knit or purl the last back st and first front st together as required to maintain pattern. Place marker for beginning of round. 226(238)250(262)270(282) sts on the needles.
Switch to the larger needles. Keep working 3(9)15(21)25(31) sts at both ends in seed st. At sections A and E, work rows 2-30, then keep repeating rows 1-30. At sections B and D, work rows 7-24, then keep repeating rows 1-24. At section C, keep repeating rows 2-43.
When the back measures 53(54)55(57)58(60) cm and you have last worked an even-numbered row of the charts, separate the pieces: on the next round, work to last front st, bind off 1 st, work to last st, bind off 1 st. Leave the 112(118)124(130)134(140) back sts on hold and continue with the 112(118)124(130)134(140) front sts.
Top front
At both ends keep working 1(4)7(10)12(15) sts in seed st. With the other sts, work the cable pattern as established.
When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24(24) cm, bind off the middle 32(32)34(34)36(36) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 3x2 sts at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 25(26)27(27)28(28) cm, bind off the remaining 30(33)35(38)39(42) shoulder sts. Work the other side in the same manner.
Top back
Work like front until the armhole measures 23(24)25(25)26(26) cm.Bind off the middle 44(44)46(46)48(48) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge. When the armhole measures 25(26)27(27)28(28) cm, bind off the remaining 30(33)35(38)39(42) shoulder sts. Work the other side in the same manner.
Sleeves
Using the smaller needles cast on 66(70)72(72)76(76) sts and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
Work next 4(6)7(7)9(9) sts in ribbing and place marker for beginning of round.
Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: work section B twice (= 16 sts), work section A (= 26 sts), work section D twice (= 16 sts), work 8(12)14(14)18(18) sts in seed st. At sections B and D, work rows 2-24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-24. At section A, work rows 2-30 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-30.
Note: When the piece measures 8(8)6(6)6(6) cm, increase 1 st at both ends of the seed st section. Repeat the increases every 2,5(3)3(3)3,5(3,5) cm 8(7)8(8)7(7) more times = 84(86)90(90)92(92) sts. Work the increased sts in seed st.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams. Attach the sleeves. Leave 8 cm slits at the hem.
Neckline: Using the smaller circular needle (40 cm), pick up and knit 114(114)118(118)122(122) sts from the neckline edge. Work ribbing in the round for 10 cm, then work a stretchy bind-off in pattern. Fold the collar and sew the edge to the WS.
Finished dimensions
body circumference 104(112)120(128)136(144) cm / 41(44)47¼(50½)53½(56¾) in
back length 78(80)82(84)86(88) cm / 30¾(31½)32¼(33)33¾(34¾) in
front shorter by 7 cm / 2¾ in
inner sleeve length 31(32)33(33)34(34) cm / 12¼(12½)13(13)13½(13½) in
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns
Ribbing (flat):
Row 1:
(WS) *p1, k1*, repeat *-* until 1 st remains, p1. Row 2: (RS) *k1,
p1*, repeat *-* until 1 st remains, k1. Keep repeating rows 1-2.Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *-*.Cable pattern: follow the chart and instructions.Seed stitch: Row 1: *k1, p1*
Back hem
Using the smaller needles cast on 115(121)127(133)137(143) sts. Begin ribbing on the WS with k1(p1)k1(p1)p1(k1). Work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in total in ribbing, then k1, p6, k1, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* 20 more times, k1, p6, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Work ribbing and begin the cable pattern on row 2 of the chart as follows: work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in ribbing, work section B (= 8 sts) of the chart, work 43 sts in ribbing, work section D (= 8 sts), work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in ribbing. Work rows 2-24 of the chart, then work rows 1-5. Leave the back sts on hold.
Front hem
Using the smaller needles cast on 115(121)127(133)137(143) sts. Begin ribbing on the WS with k1(p1)k1(p1)p1(k1). Work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in total in ribbing, then k1, p6, k1, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *-* 20 more times, k1, p6, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Work ribbing and begin the cable pattern on row 14 of the chart as follows: work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in ribbing, work section B (= 8 sts), work 43 sts in ribbing, work section D (= 8 sts), work 28(31)34(37)39(42) sts in ribbing. Work rows 15-24 of the chart, then work rows 1-5. Do not break yarn.
Body
The body is knitted in the round up to the armholes. Front: work 2(5)8(11)13(16) sts in ribbing, work row 1 of section A (= 26 sts), work row 6 of section B (= 8 sts), work row 1 of section C (= 43-1 sts), work row 6 of section D (= 8 sts), work row 1 of section E (= 26 sts), work 1(4)7(10)12(15) sts in seed st. Knit or purl the last front st and first back st together as required to maintain pattern. Back: work 1(4)7(10)12(15) sts in seed st, work row 1 of section A (= 26 sts), work row 6 of section B (= 8 sts), work row 1 of section C (= 43-1 sts), work row 6 of section D (= 8 sts), work row 1 of section E (= 26 sts), work 1(4)7(10)12(15) sts in seed st. Knit or purl the last back st and first front st together as required to maintain pattern. Place marker for beginning of round. 226(238)250(262)270(282) sts on the needles.
Switch to the larger needles. Keep working 3(9)15(21)25(31) sts at both ends in seed st. At sections A and E, work rows 2-30, then keep repeating rows 1-30. At sections B and D, work rows 7-24, then keep repeating rows 1-24. At section C, keep repeating rows 2-43.
When the back measures 53(54)55(57)58(60) cm and you have last worked an even-numbered row of the charts, separate the pieces: on the next round, work to last front st, bind off 1 st, work to last st, bind off 1 st. Leave the 112(118)124(130)134(140) back sts on hold and continue with the 112(118)124(130)134(140) front sts.
Top front
At both ends keep working 1(4)7(10)12(15) sts in seed st. With the other sts, work the cable pattern as established.
When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24(24) cm, bind off the middle 32(32)34(34)36(36) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 1x4 sts and 3x2 sts at the neckline edge.
When the armhole measures 25(26)27(27)28(28) cm, bind off the remaining 30(33)35(38)39(42) shoulder sts. Work the other side in the same manner.
Top back
Work like front until the armhole measures 23(24)25(25)26(26) cm.Bind off the middle 44(44)46(46)48(48) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row bind off 2x2 sts at the neckline edge. When the armhole measures 25(26)27(27)28(28) cm, bind off the remaining 30(33)35(38)39(42) shoulder sts. Work the other side in the same manner.
Sleeves
Using the smaller needles cast on 66(70)72(72)76(76) sts and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
Work next 4(6)7(7)9(9) sts in ribbing and place marker for beginning of round.
Switch to the larger needles and begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: work section B twice (= 16 sts), work section A (= 26 sts), work section D twice (= 16 sts), work 8(12)14(14)18(18) sts in seed st. At sections B and D, work rows 2-24 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-24. At section A, work rows 2-30 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-30.
Note: When the piece measures 8(8)6(6)6(6) cm, increase 1 st at both ends of the seed st section. Repeat the increases every 2,5(3)3(3)3,5(3,5) cm 8(7)8(8)7(7) more times = 84(86)90(90)92(92) sts. Work the increased sts in seed st.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Sew the shoulder seams. Attach the sleeves. Leave 8 cm slits at the hem.
Neckline: Using the smaller circular needle (40 cm), pick up and knit 114(114)118(118)122(122) sts from the neckline edge. Work ribbing in the round for 10 cm, then work a stretchy bind-off in pattern. Fold the collar and sew the edge to the WS.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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