Novita Natura: Margot vest

As low as €6.96

This elegant brioche vest is knitted seamlessly using Novita Natura yarn.
Novita Syksy 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
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    Availability: In stock

    N03205
    Size
    S(M)L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Natura
    (010) Off White 450(500)550(550)600 g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) and double-pointed needles Novita 5 mm (UK 6 / US 8) or size needed


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Body
    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes.
    Using the circular needle cast on 156(168)180(192)204 sts. Begin ribbing in the round with k1. On the first round place 2 markers as follows: the 1st marker at the beginning of round and the 2nd marker at the other side after 78(84)90(96)102 sts.
    When the ribbing measures 4 cm, begin brioche in the round.
    When the piece measures approx. 5 cm and you have last worked round 2 in the pattern, increase 2 sts on both sides of the markers: *brk, sl1yo, increase 2 sts (brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yarn over, work same st again), work brioche to last 4 sts before marker, increase 2 sts, work brioche to marker*, repeat *-* once more. 8 sts increased, 164(176)188(200)212 sts now on the needles: 82(88)94(100)106 sts each in the front and back.
    Repeat the increases every 8 cm 2 more times. 180(192)204(216)228 sts now on the needles, 90(96)102(108)114 sts per piece.
    When the piece measures approx. 24,5(25)25,5(27,5)28 cm and you have last worked round 2 in the pattern, bind off 1 st for the armholes at both side markers as follows: bind off the 1st st (slip the yo and knit st knitwise, p1, pass the slipped st and yo over), work brioche to marker, slip marker, bind off 1 st, work brioche to last st, k1. 89(95)101(107)113 sts in the front and back.
    Leave the front sts on hold and continue with the back sts.
     
    Top back
    Turn work. Work brioche flat starting with the WS row. Work 1 st at both ends in garter st.
    When the armhole measures 18(19)20(20)21 cm, finish on a WS row. Break yarn and leave the back sts on hold.
     
    Top front
    Work like top back. Turn work.
     
    Top
    Work in the round for the rest of the piece.
    With the front sts work brioche in the round starting with round 3: sl1yo, *brk, sl1yo*, repeat *-* to end of round, place marker at the right shoulder, cast on 1 st at the end of round. Work the back sts in brioche as with the front sts. At the end of round place marker for left shoulder and cast on 1 st. 180(192)204(216)228 sts now on the needles, 90(96)102(108)114 sts in the front and back.
    With all sts work brioche in the round for 3 rounds.
    On the next round begin shoulder decreases on both sides of the markers as follows: *brk, sl1yo, k3tog (= knit together the next 3 sts and their yos = 2 sts decreased), work to last 6 sts before next marker, s2kp (= slip the yo and knit st knitwise to right-hand needle, slip next st knitwise to right-hand needle, knit the next st and yo, pass the slipped sts over = 2 sts decreased), work the last 3 sts in brioche*, repeat *-* once more. 8 sts decreased, 172(184)196(208)220 sts now on the needles: 86(92)98(104)110 sts in the front and back.
    Work brioche as established. Repeat the decreases 2(2)1(0)0 more time(s) every 4th round and then 4(5)8(10)11 times every 2nd round. 124(128)124(128)132 sts now on the needles: 62(64)62(64)66 sts in the front and back. Break yarn. Work round 2 of the pattern once more. Break yarn.
    At the beginning of the next round slip the 25 right neckline sts from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle and pick up 1 additional st to the right-hand needle from the next purl st in the row below. Leave the next 11(13)11(13)15 neckline sts on hold. Pick up 1 st to the left-hand needle from the purl st nearest to the neckline in the row below.
    Continue the shoulder decreases and start neckline decreases: (RS) k1 (the seaming st you picked up), brk, sl1yo, s2kp. Work brioche and decrease at the shoulder as established. When 6 sts remain at the other edge of the neckline, k3tog, sl1yo, brk, k1 (the seaming st). 1+22 sts on the left side of the neckline, 58(60)58(60)62 sts in the back, 21+1 sts on the right side of the neckline. Turn work.
    Work brioche flat starting with the WS row. Decrease on RS rows as follows: 7 more times every 2nd row at the front shoulder, 6 more times every 2nd row in the back and 2 more times every 4th row at the neckline edge.
    After the decreases there are 1+4 sts on the left side of the neckline, 34(36)34(36)38 sts in the back and 3+1 sts on the right side of the neckline.
    Do not turn work. Pick up and knit an additional 6 sts from the right edge of the neckline, work the neckline sts you left on hold in brioche, pick up and knit 6 sts from the left edge of the neckline. With all sts work brioche in the round. On the 1st round work the seaming sts together with the sts following them.
    With all sts work brioche in the round until the collar measures 20 cm. Loosely bind off in ribbing.
     
    Finishing
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam and shape.
    Finished dimensions
    hem circumference 104(112)120(128)136 cm / 41(44)47¼(50½)53½ in
    body circumference at widest point 112(120)128(136)144 cm / 44(47¼)50½(53½)56¾ in
    length 51(53)55(57)59 cm / 20(20¾)21¾(22½)23¼ in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Body
    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes.
    Using the circular needle cast on 156(168)180(192)204 sts. Begin ribbing in the round with k1. On the first round place 2 markers as follows: the 1st marker at the beginning of round and the 2nd marker at the other side after 78(84)90(96)102 sts.
    When the ribbing measures 4 cm, begin brioche in the round.
    When the piece measures approx. 5 cm and you have last worked round 2 in the pattern, increase 2 sts on both sides of the markers: *brk, sl1yo, increase 2 sts (brk, do not drop st off left-hand needle, yarn over, work same st again), work brioche to last 4 sts before marker, increase 2 sts, work brioche to marker*, repeat *-* once more. 8 sts increased, 164(176)188(200)212 sts now on the needles: 82(88)94(100)106 sts each in the front and back.
    Repeat the increases every 8 cm 2 more times. 180(192)204(216)228 sts now on the needles, 90(96)102(108)114 sts per piece.
    When the piece measures approx. 24,5(25)25,5(27,5)28 cm and you have last worked round 2 in the pattern, bind off 1 st for the armholes at both side markers as follows: bind off the 1st st (slip the yo and knit st knitwise, p1, pass the slipped st and yo over), work brioche to marker, slip marker, bind off 1 st, work brioche to last st, k1. 89(95)101(107)113 sts in the front and back.
    Leave the front sts on hold and continue with the back sts.
     
    Top back
    Turn work. Work brioche flat starting with the WS row. Work 1 st at both ends in garter st.
    When the armhole measures 18(19)20(20)21 cm, finish on a WS row. Break yarn and leave the back sts on hold.
     
    Top front
    Work like top back. Turn work.
     
    Top
    Work in the round for the rest of the piece.
    With the front sts work brioche in the round starting with round 3: sl1yo, *brk, sl1yo*, repeat *-* to end of round, place marker at the right shoulder, cast on 1 st at the end of round. Work the back sts in brioche as with the front sts. At the end of round place marker for left shoulder and cast on 1 st. 180(192)204(216)228 sts now on the needles, 90(96)102(108)114 sts in the front and back.
    With all sts work brioche in the round for 3 rounds.
    On the next round begin shoulder decreases on both sides of the markers as follows: *brk, sl1yo, k3tog (= knit together the next 3 sts and their yos = 2 sts decreased), work to last 6 sts before next marker, s2kp (= slip the yo and knit st knitwise to right-hand needle, slip next st knitwise to right-hand needle, knit the next st and yo, pass the slipped sts over = 2 sts decreased), work the last 3 sts in brioche*, repeat *-* once more. 8 sts decreased, 172(184)196(208)220 sts now on the needles: 86(92)98(104)110 sts in the front and back.
    Work brioche as established. Repeat the decreases 2(2)1(0)0 more time(s) every 4th round and then 4(5)8(10)11 times every 2nd round. 124(128)124(128)132 sts now on the needles: 62(64)62(64)66 sts in the front and back. Break yarn. Work round 2 of the pattern once more. Break yarn.
    At the beginning of the next round slip the 25 right neckline sts from the left-hand needle to the right-hand needle and pick up 1 additional st to the right-hand needle from the next purl st in the row below. Leave the next 11(13)11(13)15 neckline sts on hold. Pick up 1 st to the left-hand needle from the purl st nearest to the neckline in the row below.
    Continue the shoulder decreases and start neckline decreases: (RS) k1 (the seaming st you picked up), brk, sl1yo, s2kp. Work brioche and decrease at the shoulder as established. When 6 sts remain at the other edge of the neckline, k3tog, sl1yo, brk, k1 (the seaming st). 1+22 sts on the left side of the neckline, 58(60)58(60)62 sts in the back, 21+1 sts on the right side of the neckline. Turn work.
    Work brioche flat starting with the WS row. Decrease on RS rows as follows: 7 more times every 2nd row at the front shoulder, 6 more times every 2nd row in the back and 2 more times every 4th row at the neckline edge.
    After the decreases there are 1+4 sts on the left side of the neckline, 34(36)34(36)38 sts in the back and 3+1 sts on the right side of the neckline.
    Do not turn work. Pick up and knit an additional 6 sts from the right edge of the neckline, work the neckline sts you left on hold in brioche, pick up and knit 6 sts from the left edge of the neckline. With all sts work brioche in the round. On the 1st round work the seaming sts together with the sts following them.
    With all sts work brioche in the round until the collar measures 20 cm. Loosely bind off in ribbing.
     
    Finishing
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam and shape.

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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