Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Nalle: Saimi-Knitted dress
As low as €3.83
The feminine knitted dress Saimi (Saimi = Finnish woman’s name), is worked in the round, from the bottom up to the armholes, then the upper parts of the front and back are worked separately, back and forth. Knitted from Novita Nalle yarn, the knitted dress can be worn anywhere: at home, in the city and at winter festivals. Versatile knits are the best!
Novita Kevät 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
16
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N012216
Size
XS(S/M)L(XL/2XL)3XLYarn demand
Novita Nalle
(061) Flax 650(700)750(850)900 g
Needles and other supplies
Needles: Novita circular needles (80/100 cm - 32/40”) size 3 mm ((US 2 or 3 / UK 11) and 3.5 mm (US 4 / UK 10 or 9) or needle size necessary to fit gauge and for the neckline a short (40 cm / 16”) circular needle size 3 mm (US 2 or 3/ UK 11).
Designer
Lea PetäjäBack and front, lower part
The dress is worked in the round, up to the armholes. CO 280(320)360(400)440 sts using the smaller size ndls (80/100 cm - 32/40”) and join for working in the round. Continue working in seed st pattern in the round, acc to chart I, rnd 1 and work patt rep of 20 sts 14(16)18(20)22 times. Work rnd 2 of chart. Change to the larger size ndls and work rnd 3 of chart.
In the next rnd, continue working lace pattern, work rnds 4-15 and rep these rnds.
When work measures approx. 48(49)49,5(50)51 cm / 18.9(19.3)19.5(19.7)20.1” and ending on rnd 5 or 11, continue working row 16 of chart. In this rnd, 4 sts are decreased in each pattern repeat and there are now 224(256)288(320)352 sts on the needle.
Work rnds 17-39 and then rep rnds 40-83.
Tip: when work, after decrease-rnd, measures 22(22)23(23)24 cm / 8.7(8.7)9.1(9.1)9.5”, and an even number of rnds has been worked, pM on each side, using pieces of scrap yarn for example, as follows: pM1 around the first st of the rnd and pM2 around the 113th(129th)145th(161st)177th st of the rnd.
In the next, odd rnd, divide work, as follows: work in pattern to 2(4)6(6)10 sts before M2 (second marker), BO the next 5(9)13(13)21 sts, for the armhole, work in pattern to the last 2(4)6(6)10 sts of the rnd, BO the last 2(4)6(6)10 sts, for the second armhole and at the beg of the next rnd/row, BO another 3(5)7(7)11 sts. Back- and front part now each have 107(119)131(147)155 sts. Place front-sts on hold, using a spare ndl or piece of scrap yarn, and continue working back part first.
Back, upper part
Continue working the back-sts acc to lace pattern, work back and forth, in RS- and WS rows. BO for armhole shaping at the beg and end of every 2nd row, as follows: 3 sts 0(1)1(1)1 time, 2 sts 1(0)1(2)3 times and 1 st 2(3)2(3)2 times = 99(107)117(127)133 sts. Tip: in each pattern repeat of the lace pattern, for every pair of sts that is knitted together, a yarn over is also worked, so the number of sts remains the same. When 1 of the 2 sts to be worked together, has been bound off, do not make the decrease and work the rem st as k1.
Continue working in lace pattern and at the beg and end of each row, work 1(4)1(1)2 sts in st st.
When armhole measures 16(17)18,5(20)21 cm / 6.3(6.7)7.3(7.9)8.3”, BO the 41(41)45(45)47 center sts, for the neckline, and work each shoulder separately. After 2 rows, BO another 2 sts at neckline edge.
When armhole measures 18(19)20,5(22)23 cm / 7.1(7.5)8.1(8.7)9.1”, BO the rem 27(31)34(39)41 shoulder-sts. Work the second shoulder in the same way.
Front, upper part
Place the held front-sts back onto the larger size ndls and work in the same way as described for back part, until the armholes measure 10(11)12,5(14)15 cm / 4(4.3)4.9(5.5)5.9”.
Place the 27(27)31(31)33 center sts on hold, for neckline shaping and work each shoulder separately. In every 2nd row, BO at neckline edge, as follows: 3 sts twice, 2 sts once and 1 st once.
When armhole measures 7.1(7.5)8.1(8.7)9.1”, BO the rem 27(31)34(39)41 shoulder-sts. Work the second shoulder in the same way.
Sleeves
CO 61(65)65(67)69 sts using the smaller size ndls and work 1/1 ribbing, back and forth, first row is a WS row. Start the rib stitch pattern with k1(k1)k1(p1)k1. Work 1/1 ribbing back and forth for 2,5 cm / 1”.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working lace pattern acc to chart II, row 1. At the bottom of the chart, the center of the sleeve is marked with an arrow, from here you count back to where the pattern should start, work patt rep of 16 sts to end of row.
At the same time: When work measures 10(12)9(8)7 cm / 4(4.7)3.5(3.2)2.8”, inc 1 st at the beg and end of the row. Rep these inc’s every 4(3,5)3(2,5)2,5 cm / 1.6(1.4)1.2(1)1” another 8(9)12(15)16 more times = 79(85)91(99)103 sts. Work the increased sts acc to lace pattern.
Note: After finishing row 56 of lace pattern chart II, continue working lace pattern acc to chart II, row 57. At the bottom of the chart, the center of the sleeve is marked with an arrow, from here you count back to where the pattern should start, work patt rep of 20 sts to end of row. Work rows 58-68 and then rep rows 57-68.
When work measures 46(47)48(48)49 cm / 18(18.5)19(19)19.3”, BO for sleeve cap, as follows: at the beg and end of every 2nd row, BO 5(5)7(7)10 sts once, 3 sts once, 2 sts 1(2)2(3)3 times, 1 st 14(15)16(17)18 times, 2 sts once and 3 sts once. BO the rem sts.
Work the second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place work inside out onto a flat surface, dampen and let dry. Close shoulder seams.
Neckline border: place held neckline sts back onto a short circular needle, PUK additional sts along neckline, up to a total of 120(120)124(124)124 sts. Work in 1/1 ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm / 1”. BO all sts in pattern.
Close sleeve seams and sew sleeves in armholes.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
cdd = centered double decrease
CO = cast on
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
foll = following
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
k3tog = knit 3 sts together
M1 = stitch marker 1
M2 = stitch marker 2
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
patt = pattern
pM = place marker
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
sl = slip
sl1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise
skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
sssk = slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto left ndl, knit together through back loops
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
WS = wrong side
yo(‘s) = yarn over(s)
Translations for charts and legend:
Diagramm = Chart
x M Musterrapport wiederholt sich = x sts pattern repeat
Mitte des Ärmels = center of sleeve
1 M re, in Rückrunde 1 M li = k1, p on WS
1 M li, in Rückrunde 1 M re = p1, k on WS
3 M re zusammen stricken = k3tog
1 M von linker Nadel ungestrickt re abheben. 2. M ungestrickt re abheben. 3. M ungestrickt re abheben.Alle M zurück auf die linke Nadel schieben und verschränkt durch das hintere Maschenglied
zusammenstricken = sssk
1 M wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, 1 M re und die abgehobene M über die gestrickte M heben = skp
2 M re zusammenstricken = k2tog
1 Umschlag auf die Nadel machen = yo
2 M wie zum rechts Zusammenstricken ungestrickt abheben,1 M re und die abgehobenen M über die gestrickte M heben = cdd
die letzte M der vorherigen Reihe auf die linke Nadel schieben (die M wird mit den nächsten 2 M zusammen gestrickt) = slip the last st of previous row onto left ndl (this st will be knitted together with the next 2 sts)
Finished dimensions
Finished measurements
Bust circumference: 82(94)106(118)130 cm / 32(37)42(46)51”
Total length: 88(90)93(95)98 cm / 34.6(35.4)36.6(37.4)38.6”
Underarm length: 46(47)48(48)49 cm / 18(18.5)19(19)19.3”
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns: Seed stitch- and lace pattern: work according to chart and instructions. Reverse stockinette stitch worked flat: purl the RS rows and knit the WS rows. 1/1 ribbing worked flat: *k1, p1, rep from *, in the foll rows, work the sts as they appear. Stockinette stitch worked flat: knit the RS rows and purl the WS rows. 1/1 ribbing in the round: *k1, p1, rep from *.
Gauge/Tension: 24 sts and 32 rows, using the larger size ndls (rows 4-15 of chart) = 10 x 10 cm / 4” square.
27 sts worked in lace pattern, for the upper part of the dress, using the larger size ndls (rows 40-83) = 10 x 10 cm / 4” square
Back and front, lower part
The dress is worked in the round, up to the armholes. CO 280(320)360(400)440 sts using the smaller size ndls (80/100 cm - 32/40”) and join for working in the round. Continue working in seed st pattern in the round, acc to chart I, rnd 1 and work patt rep of 20 sts 14(16)18(20)22 times. Work rnd 2 of chart. Change to the larger size ndls and work rnd 3 of chart.
In the next rnd, continue working lace pattern, work rnds 4-15 and rep these rnds.
When work measures approx. 48(49)49,5(50)51 cm / 18.9(19.3)19.5(19.7)20.1” and ending on rnd 5 or 11, continue working row 16 of chart. In this rnd, 4 sts are decreased in each pattern repeat and there are now 224(256)288(320)352 sts on the needle.
Work rnds 17-39 and then rep rnds 40-83.
Tip: when work, after decrease-rnd, measures 22(22)23(23)24 cm / 8.7(8.7)9.1(9.1)9.5”, and an even number of rnds has been worked, pM on each side, using pieces of scrap yarn for example, as follows: pM1 around the first st of the rnd and pM2 around the 113th(129th)145th(161st)177th st of the rnd.
In the next, odd rnd, divide work, as follows: work in pattern to 2(4)6(6)10 sts before M2 (second marker), BO the next 5(9)13(13)21 sts, for the armhole, work in pattern to the last 2(4)6(6)10 sts of the rnd, BO the last 2(4)6(6)10 sts, for the second armhole and at the beg of the next rnd/row, BO another 3(5)7(7)11 sts. Back- and front part now each have 107(119)131(147)155 sts. Place front-sts on hold, using a spare ndl or piece of scrap yarn, and continue working back part first.
Back, upper part
Continue working the back-sts acc to lace pattern, work back and forth, in RS- and WS rows. BO for armhole shaping at the beg and end of every 2nd row, as follows: 3 sts 0(1)1(1)1 time, 2 sts 1(0)1(2)3 times and 1 st 2(3)2(3)2 times = 99(107)117(127)133 sts. Tip: in each pattern repeat of the lace pattern, for every pair of sts that is knitted together, a yarn over is also worked, so the number of sts remains the same. When 1 of the 2 sts to be worked together, has been bound off, do not make the decrease and work the rem st as k1.
Continue working in lace pattern and at the beg and end of each row, work 1(4)1(1)2 sts in st st.
When armhole measures 16(17)18,5(20)21 cm / 6.3(6.7)7.3(7.9)8.3”, BO the 41(41)45(45)47 center sts, for the neckline, and work each shoulder separately. After 2 rows, BO another 2 sts at neckline edge.
When armhole measures 18(19)20,5(22)23 cm / 7.1(7.5)8.1(8.7)9.1”, BO the rem 27(31)34(39)41 shoulder-sts. Work the second shoulder in the same way.
Front, upper part
Place the held front-sts back onto the larger size ndls and work in the same way as described for back part, until the armholes measure 10(11)12,5(14)15 cm / 4(4.3)4.9(5.5)5.9”.
Place the 27(27)31(31)33 center sts on hold, for neckline shaping and work each shoulder separately. In every 2nd row, BO at neckline edge, as follows: 3 sts twice, 2 sts once and 1 st once.
When armhole measures 7.1(7.5)8.1(8.7)9.1”, BO the rem 27(31)34(39)41 shoulder-sts. Work the second shoulder in the same way.
Sleeves
CO 61(65)65(67)69 sts using the smaller size ndls and work 1/1 ribbing, back and forth, first row is a WS row. Start the rib stitch pattern with k1(k1)k1(p1)k1. Work 1/1 ribbing back and forth for 2,5 cm / 1”.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working lace pattern acc to chart II, row 1. At the bottom of the chart, the center of the sleeve is marked with an arrow, from here you count back to where the pattern should start, work patt rep of 16 sts to end of row.
At the same time: When work measures 10(12)9(8)7 cm / 4(4.7)3.5(3.2)2.8”, inc 1 st at the beg and end of the row. Rep these inc’s every 4(3,5)3(2,5)2,5 cm / 1.6(1.4)1.2(1)1” another 8(9)12(15)16 more times = 79(85)91(99)103 sts. Work the increased sts acc to lace pattern.
Note: After finishing row 56 of lace pattern chart II, continue working lace pattern acc to chart II, row 57. At the bottom of the chart, the center of the sleeve is marked with an arrow, from here you count back to where the pattern should start, work patt rep of 20 sts to end of row. Work rows 58-68 and then rep rows 57-68.
When work measures 46(47)48(48)49 cm / 18(18.5)19(19)19.3”, BO for sleeve cap, as follows: at the beg and end of every 2nd row, BO 5(5)7(7)10 sts once, 3 sts once, 2 sts 1(2)2(3)3 times, 1 st 14(15)16(17)18 times, 2 sts once and 3 sts once. BO the rem sts.
Work the second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place work inside out onto a flat surface, dampen and let dry. Close shoulder seams.
Neckline border: place held neckline sts back onto a short circular needle, PUK additional sts along neckline, up to a total of 120(120)124(124)124 sts. Work in 1/1 ribbing in the round for 2,5 cm / 1”. BO all sts in pattern.
Close sleeve seams and sew sleeves in armholes.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
cdd = centered double decrease
CO = cast on
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
foll = following
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
k3tog = knit 3 sts together
M1 = stitch marker 1
M2 = stitch marker 2
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
patt = pattern
pM = place marker
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
sl = slip
sl1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise
skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
sssk = slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st knitwise, move sts back onto left ndl, knit together through back loops
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
WS = wrong side
yo(‘s) = yarn over(s)
Translations for charts and legend:
Diagramm = Chart
x M Musterrapport wiederholt sich = x sts pattern repeat
Mitte des Ärmels = center of sleeve
1 M re, in Rückrunde 1 M li = k1, p on WS
1 M li, in Rückrunde 1 M re = p1, k on WS
3 M re zusammen stricken = k3tog
1 M von linker Nadel ungestrickt re abheben. 2. M ungestrickt re abheben. 3. M ungestrickt re abheben.Alle M zurück auf die linke Nadel schieben und verschränkt durch das hintere Maschenglied
zusammenstricken = sssk
1 M wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, 1 M re und die abgehobene M über die gestrickte M heben = skp
2 M re zusammenstricken = k2tog
1 Umschlag auf die Nadel machen = yo
2 M wie zum rechts Zusammenstricken ungestrickt abheben,1 M re und die abgehobenen M über die gestrickte M heben = cdd
die letzte M der vorherigen Reihe auf die linke Nadel schieben (die M wird mit den nächsten 2 M zusammen gestrickt) = slip the last st of previous row onto left ndl (this st will be knitted together with the next 2 sts)
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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