Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Nalle: Ohto – Sweater
As low as €6.96
This youthful sweater uses neutral shades, but for a more colourful version you can easily replace one or more shades! The sweater is knitted as a closed knit from the neckline to the hem.
Novita Syksy 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
16
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N032116
Related Products
Check items to add to the cart or
Size
S(M)L(XL)XXL(3XL)Yarn demand
Novita Nalle
(061) linen 350(400)450(500)550(600) g,
(099) black 150(150)200(200)200(250) g and
(043) stone 50(50)50(50)50(50) g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in and 80 cm / 32 in) sizes 3 mm (US 2 or 3/UK 11) and 3.5 mm (US 4/UK 10) or 9) or the sizes needed to obtain the correct gauge, dpns sizes 3 mm (US 2 or 3/UK 11) and 3.5 mm (US 4/UK 10) for the sleeves, if not working with the Magic Loop technique.
Designer
Ronja HakalehtoYoke
Using the smaller circ. ndl and the black yarn, loosely CO 110(110)116(116)118(120) sts. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round and work ribbing in the round for 7 cm / 2¾ in.
Change to larger circ. ndl, knit 2 rnds and at the same time, increase 55(55)58(58)59(60) sts in the first rnd, as follows: *k2, increase 1 st by working the strand between 2 sts as a twisted knit st*, rep *–* to end of rnd = 165(165)174(174)177(180) sts.
Knit 1 more rnd and at the same time, increase 3(11)10(18)15(20) sts evenly spaced = 168(176)184(192)192(200) sts.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I and work the 4 st pattern repeat a total of 42(44)46(48)48(50) times. Then work rnds 2–10 of the chart.
Work rnd 11 of the chart. In this rnd 42(44)46(48)48(50) sts are increased and there are 210(220)230(240)240(250) sts on the ndl. Work rnds 12–20. Work the 5 st pattern repeat to end of rnd.
Note: Change to the longer circular needle if necessary, when there are too many sts on the needle for the short circular needle.
Work rnd 21 of the chart. In this rnd 42(44)46(48)48(50) sts are increased and there are 252(264)276(288)288(300) sts on the ndl. Work rnd 22–28. Work the 6 st pattern repeat to end of rnd.
Work rnd 29 of the chart. In this rnd 42(44)46(48)48(50) sts are increased and there are 294(308)322(336)336(350) sts on the ndl. Work rnd 30–39. Work the 7 st pattern repeat to end of rnd.
Work rnd 40 of the chart. In this rnd 42(44)46(48)48(50) sts are increased and there are 336(352)368(384)384(400) sts on the ndl. Work rnd 41–59. Work the 8 st pattern repeat to end of rnd.
Continue working in stockinette st using Linen and decrease 0(2)0(2)0(0) sts in the second rnd = 336(350)368(382)384(400) sts.
When yoke measures 19(20)21(22)21(22) cm / 7½(7¾)8¼(8¾)8¼(8¾) in, work is divided into 4 parts: 101(107)114(119)121(128) back-sts, 67(68)70(72)71(72) sleeve-sts, 101(107)114(119)121(128) front-sts and 67(68)70(72)71(72) sleeve-sts.
Continue working the 101(107)114(119)121(128) back-sts flat (in RS- and WS rows) and at the same time CO sts on both sides of the work (always at the end of the row) in every second row, as follows: 2x1 st, 1(1)1(1)2(2)x2 sts and 1x3(3)3(3)4(4) sts = 115(121)128(133)141(148) sts. Place sts on hold and work the front part in the same way = 115(121)128(133)141(148) sts.
Lower part of front- and back
Continue working in stockinette st in the round, as follows: work the 115(121)128(133)141(148) sts of the back, CO 5(11)12(15)19(20) new underarm sts, work the 115(121)128(133)141(148) sts of the front, CO 5(11)12(15)19(20) new underarm sts = 240(264)280(296)320(336) sts. Join for working in the round and continue working in stockinette st in the round.
Work 34(35)36(38)39(41) cm / 13½(13¾)14¼(15)15¼(16¼) in, measured from underarm CO edge, in stockinette st, then begin colourwork acc to chart II, start at row 1 of the chart and work the 8 st pattern repeat 8 a total of 30(33)35(37)40(42) times. Work rnds 2–12 of the chart and then work 3 rnds in stockinette st using the black yarn.
Change to the smaller ndls and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm / 1½ in. Then loosely BO all sts in pattern.
Lower part of the sleeves
Work the 67(68)70(72)71(72) sts of the first sleeve flat (in RS- and WS rows) and in every second row (always at the end of the row), on both sides of the work, CO 2(2)2(2)3(3)x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x3(3)3(3)4(4) sts = 81(82)84(86)89(90) sts. At the end of the next RS row, CO another 7(10)12(14)17(20) sts (underarm sts) = 88(92)96(100)106(110) sts.
Continue working in the round in stockinette st. The beg of the rnd lies in the center of the CO sts for the underarm. Work the sleeve using a circ. ndl and the Magic Loop-technique or use a set of dpns to work the sleeve.
Work 1 cm / ½ in, in stockinette st, then start decreasing: k1 at the beg of the rnd, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before the end of rnd, skp (= sl 1 st knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over) and knit the last st of the rnd. Rep these decreases every 2(2)2(2)1(1) cm / ¾(¾)¾(¾)½(½) in 7(12)18(11)1(3) more times, then every 3(3)3(3)2(2) cm / 1¼(1¼)1¼(1¼)¾(¾) in 8(5)1(6)19(19) more times = 56(56)56(64)64(64) sts.
When sleeve, measured from CO underarm edge, measures 40(41)41(42)42(43) cm / 15¾(16¼)16¼(16½)16½(17) in, beg the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II and work the 8 st pattern repeat a total of 7(7)7(8)8(8) times. Work rnds 2–12 of the chart, then work 3 rnds in stockinette st using the black yarn and in the last rnd, decrease (2)0(8)6(4) sts evenly spaced = 52(54)56(56)58(60) sts.
Change to the smaller nlds and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm / 1½ in. Loosely BO all sts in pattern.
Work the lower part of the second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place the sweater onto a flat surface, wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly. Close the small gaps at the underarms.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
circ. = circular
CO = cast on
dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
rnd(s) = round(s)
sl = slip
skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
Finished dimensions
Body circumference 106(114)122(130)138(146) cm / 41¾(44¾)48(51¼)54¼(57½) in
Length mid front/mid back 65(67)69(72)73(76) cm / 25½(26½)27¼(28¼)28¾(30) in
Underarm length 49(50)50(51)51(52) cm / 19¼(19¾)19¾(20)20(20½) in
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, rep *–*. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rounds. Stockinette stitch worked flat: knit the RS rows and purl the WS rows. Colourwork in the round: work in stockinette st following the chart.
Gauge: 23 sts x 32 rnds in stockinette st using larger needles = 10 x 10 cm / 4 in square, 25 sts in stockinette st in colourwork using larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in.
Note: The sweater is worked seamlessly from the top down (see schematic drawing for direction of knitting) and the small gaps at the underarms are closed at the end.
Yoke
Using the smaller circ. ndl and the black yarn, loosely CO 110(110)116(116)118(120) sts. Place a stitch marker to indicate the beginning of the round and work ribbing in the round for 7 cm / 2¾ in.
Change to larger circ. ndl, knit 2 rnds and at the same time, increase 55(55)58(58)59(60) sts in the first rnd, as follows: *k2, increase 1 st by working the strand between 2 sts as a twisted knit st*, rep *–* to end of rnd = 165(165)174(174)177(180) sts.
Knit 1 more rnd and at the same time, increase 3(11)10(18)15(20) sts evenly spaced = 168(176)184(192)192(200) sts.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I and work the 4 st pattern repeat a total of 42(44)46(48)48(50) times. Then work rnds 2–10 of the chart.
Work rnd 11 of the chart. In this rnd 42(44)46(48)48(50) sts are increased and there are 210(220)230(240)240(250) sts on the ndl. Work rnds 12–20. Work the 5 st pattern repeat to end of rnd.
Note: Change to the longer circular needle if necessary, when there are too many sts on the needle for the short circular needle.
Work rnd 21 of the chart. In this rnd 42(44)46(48)48(50) sts are increased and there are 252(264)276(288)288(300) sts on the ndl. Work rnd 22–28. Work the 6 st pattern repeat to end of rnd.
Work rnd 29 of the chart. In this rnd 42(44)46(48)48(50) sts are increased and there are 294(308)322(336)336(350) sts on the ndl. Work rnd 30–39. Work the 7 st pattern repeat to end of rnd.
Work rnd 40 of the chart. In this rnd 42(44)46(48)48(50) sts are increased and there are 336(352)368(384)384(400) sts on the ndl. Work rnd 41–59. Work the 8 st pattern repeat to end of rnd.
Continue working in stockinette st using Linen and decrease 0(2)0(2)0(0) sts in the second rnd = 336(350)368(382)384(400) sts.
When yoke measures 19(20)21(22)21(22) cm / 7½(7¾)8¼(8¾)8¼(8¾) in, work is divided into 4 parts: 101(107)114(119)121(128) back-sts, 67(68)70(72)71(72) sleeve-sts, 101(107)114(119)121(128) front-sts and 67(68)70(72)71(72) sleeve-sts.
Continue working the 101(107)114(119)121(128) back-sts flat (in RS- and WS rows) and at the same time CO sts on both sides of the work (always at the end of the row) in every second row, as follows: 2x1 st, 1(1)1(1)2(2)x2 sts and 1x3(3)3(3)4(4) sts = 115(121)128(133)141(148) sts. Place sts on hold and work the front part in the same way = 115(121)128(133)141(148) sts.
Lower part of front- and back
Continue working in stockinette st in the round, as follows: work the 115(121)128(133)141(148) sts of the back, CO 5(11)12(15)19(20) new underarm sts, work the 115(121)128(133)141(148) sts of the front, CO 5(11)12(15)19(20) new underarm sts = 240(264)280(296)320(336) sts. Join for working in the round and continue working in stockinette st in the round.
Work 34(35)36(38)39(41) cm / 13½(13¾)14¼(15)15¼(16¼) in, measured from underarm CO edge, in stockinette st, then begin colourwork acc to chart II, start at row 1 of the chart and work the 8 st pattern repeat 8 a total of 30(33)35(37)40(42) times. Work rnds 2–12 of the chart and then work 3 rnds in stockinette st using the black yarn.
Change to the smaller ndls and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm / 1½ in. Then loosely BO all sts in pattern.
Lower part of the sleeves
Work the 67(68)70(72)71(72) sts of the first sleeve flat (in RS- and WS rows) and in every second row (always at the end of the row), on both sides of the work, CO 2(2)2(2)3(3)x1 st, 1x2 sts and 1x3(3)3(3)4(4) sts = 81(82)84(86)89(90) sts. At the end of the next RS row, CO another 7(10)12(14)17(20) sts (underarm sts) = 88(92)96(100)106(110) sts.
Continue working in the round in stockinette st. The beg of the rnd lies in the center of the CO sts for the underarm. Work the sleeve using a circ. ndl and the Magic Loop-technique or use a set of dpns to work the sleeve.
Work 1 cm / ½ in, in stockinette st, then start decreasing: k1 at the beg of the rnd, k2tog, knit to 3 sts before the end of rnd, skp (= sl 1 st knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over) and knit the last st of the rnd. Rep these decreases every 2(2)2(2)1(1) cm / ¾(¾)¾(¾)½(½) in 7(12)18(11)1(3) more times, then every 3(3)3(3)2(2) cm / 1¼(1¼)1¼(1¼)¾(¾) in 8(5)1(6)19(19) more times = 56(56)56(64)64(64) sts.
When sleeve, measured from CO underarm edge, measures 40(41)41(42)42(43) cm / 15¾(16¼)16¼(16½)16½(17) in, beg the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart II and work the 8 st pattern repeat a total of 7(7)7(8)8(8) times. Work rnds 2–12 of the chart, then work 3 rnds in stockinette st using the black yarn and in the last rnd, decrease (2)0(8)6(4) sts evenly spaced = 52(54)56(56)58(60) sts.
Change to the smaller nlds and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm / 1½ in. Loosely BO all sts in pattern.
Work the lower part of the second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place the sweater onto a flat surface, wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly. Close the small gaps at the underarms.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
circ. = circular
CO = cast on
dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
rnd(s) = round(s)
sl = slip
skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
WS = wrong side
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
Write Your Own Review