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Novita Nalle: Meri shawl

Novita Nalle: Meri shawl

As low as €3.00

Kaunis kolmionmuotoinen huivi syntyy Novita Nalle -langasta ainaoikeinneuleena ja pitsinä.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 6
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Nalle: Meri shawl
€5.90
Novita knitting pins 35 cm-4.0 mm
€3.00

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Novita Nalle: Meri shawl
Novita Nalle: Meri shawl

In stock

€3.00

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N03206
    Like
    Pattern details
    Size
    One size

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nalle
    (043) Stone 400 g


    Needles and other supplies
    Needles Novita 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) or size needed to obtain gauge


    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details
    Cast on 3 sts and knit the WS row.
    Row 1: (RS) kfb (= knit front and back), kfb, k1 = 5 sts.
    Row 2: (WS) knit all sts.
    Row 3: kfb, k2, kfb, k1 = 7 sts.
    Row 4: k3, place marker, k1, place marker, k3.
    Row 5: work 3 sts in garter st, slip marker, increase 1 (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), p1, slip marker, work 3 sts in garter st = 8 sts.
    Row 6: work garter st to marker, slip marker, k2, slip marker, work garter st to end of row.
    Row 7: work garter st to marker, slip marker, work row 1 of chart I (= 2 sts + 1 st), slip marker, work garter st to end = 9 sts.
    Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st. Between the markers work rows 2–48 of chart I. 32 sts now on the needles.
    Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st. Work 2 sts at the right end of the lace section following row 1 of chart I (= 2 sts + 1 st) and the other 24 lace sts following row 1 of chart II (repeat the 12 st pattern 2 times). Work rows 2–48 of chart I. Work rows 2–24 of chart II and rows 1–24 once more. 2 vertical repeats of chart II for each repeat of chart I. 56 sts on the needles.
    Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st. Work 2 sts at the right end of the lace section following row 1 of chart I (= 2 sts + 1 st) and the other 48 sts following row 1 of chart II (repeat the 12 st pattern 4 times). 57 sts on the needles. Work the WS row following row 2 of each chart.
     
     
    Now work 3 sts at both ends in garter st, place marker, increase 1 (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), at the beginning of the lace section p1, k1, p1 and then work the lace section following row 3 of chart II. 58 sts on the needles.
    On the next row (WS) work 3 sts at both ends in garter st, work the lace section following row 4 of chart II, k1, p1, k1, slip marker, work 1 st in garter st.
    At both ends keep working 3 sts in garter st, increase 1, work garter st to marker, at the beginning of the lace section work 3 sts in ribbing, then work rows 4–24 of chart II and keep repeating rows 1–24. Repeat the 1 st increase on each RS row next to the 3 garter sts.
    When the piece measures 150 cm, work garter st for 6 rows with all sts, then loosely bind off.
     
    Finishing
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Height approx. 150 cm / 59 in; width at top edge approx. 120 cm / 47 in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns Garter stitch: knit all rows. Lace pattern: follow the chart and instructions.
    Gauge 19 sts and 32 rows in garter st = 10 cm


    Cast on 3 sts and knit the WS row.
    Row 1: (RS) kfb (= knit front and back), kfb, k1 = 5 sts.
    Row 2: (WS) knit all sts.
    Row 3: kfb, k2, kfb, k1 = 7 sts.
    Row 4: k3, place marker, k1, place marker, k3.
    Row 5: work 3 sts in garter st, slip marker, increase 1 (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), p1, slip marker, work 3 sts in garter st = 8 sts.
    Row 6: work garter st to marker, slip marker, k2, slip marker, work garter st to end of row.
    Row 7: work garter st to marker, slip marker, work row 1 of chart I (= 2 sts + 1 st), slip marker, work garter st to end = 9 sts.
    Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st. Between the markers work rows 2–48 of chart I. 32 sts now on the needles.
    Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st. Work 2 sts at the right end of the lace section following row 1 of chart I (= 2 sts + 1 st) and the other 24 lace sts following row 1 of chart II (repeat the 12 st pattern 2 times). Work rows 2–48 of chart I. Work rows 2–24 of chart II and rows 1–24 once more. 2 vertical repeats of chart II for each repeat of chart I. 56 sts on the needles.
    Keep working 3 sts at both ends in garter st. Work 2 sts at the right end of the lace section following row 1 of chart I (= 2 sts + 1 st) and the other 48 sts following row 1 of chart II (repeat the 12 st pattern 4 times). 57 sts on the needles. Work the WS row following row 2 of each chart.
     
     
    Now work 3 sts at both ends in garter st, place marker, increase 1 (= knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), at the beginning of the lace section p1, k1, p1 and then work the lace section following row 3 of chart II. 58 sts on the needles.
    On the next row (WS) work 3 sts at both ends in garter st, work the lace section following row 4 of chart II, k1, p1, k1, slip marker, work 1 st in garter st.
    At both ends keep working 3 sts in garter st, increase 1, work garter st to marker, at the beginning of the lace section work 3 sts in ribbing, then work rows 4–24 of chart II and keep repeating rows 1–24. Repeat the 1 st increase on each RS row next to the 3 garter sts.
    When the piece measures 150 cm, work garter st for 6 rows with all sts, then loosely bind off.
     
    Finishing
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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