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Novita Nalle: Marita cardigan

Novita Nalle: Marita cardigan

As low as €6.90

Designed by Sisko Sälpäkivi and knitted in Novita Nalle, the Marita cardigan features alternating off-white and graphite grey stripes.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 8
Skill level Expert
Novita Nalle: Marita cardigan
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
€5.90
Novita double ended 20 cm birch -3.5 mm
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Novita Nalle: Marita cardigan
Novita Nalle: Marita cardigan

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N03208
    Pattern details
    Size
    S(M)L/XL(XXL)3XL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Nalle
    (044) Graphite 400(400)450(450)500 g and
    (010) Off White 350(350)400(400)450 g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3½–4 mm (UK 8–9 / US 4–6) or size needed; a 3–3½ mm (UK 10–11 / US 2½–4) circular needle (80 cm / 32 in) for the borders; 3–3½ mm double-pointed needles for the cuffs
    Other supplies 9 buttons


    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Details
    Back
    Using Off White cast on 143(153)163(173)183 sts and purl the WS row.
    Begin the chevron pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right edge of the chart, repeat the 28(30)32(34)36 st pattern [= increase 1, k12(13)14(15)16, work 3 sts together, k12(13)14(15)16, increase 1, k1] 5 times, work the 1 st at left. Work row 2 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–2 for the rest of the piece. Keep alternating 24(24)26(26)26 Off White rows and 24(24)26(26)26 Graphite rows.
    Note: Twist the yarns around each other at the side to avoid long floats, or break the non-working yarn.
    After 8 stripes (4 Off White ones and 4 Graphite ones), decrease 14(15)16(17)18x1 st on every row at both ends for the armholes = 115(123)131(139)147 sts. Note: Now decrease 1 st instead of 2 sts at both ends (at the right end, skp, and at the left end, k2tog).
    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24 cm, bind off as follows:
    Bind off half a pattern repeat: (RS) k1, skp, work 10(11)12(13)14 sts (2 sts remain before the middle st), k2tog, turn work. WS: p2tog, work to end. RS: k1, skp, work 8(9)10(11)12 sts, k2tog. Turn work. WS: p2tog, work to end. Keep decreasing as established until all sts of the half repeat have been decreased. Break yarn.
    Next full pattern repeat: (RS) k2tog, work 11(12)13(14)15 sts, s2kp (= slip 2 sts knitwise, k1, pass the slipped sts over), work 10(11)12(13)14 sts. Turn work. P2tog, work to last 2 sts, p2tog through the back loop. RS: k2tog, work 9(10)11(12)13 sts, s2kp, work 8(9)10(11912 sts, k2tog. Turn work. P2tog, work to last 2 sts, p2tog through the back loop. Keep decreasing as established until all sts have been decreased, then break yarn. Keep working as established until all back sts have been decreased.
     
    Left front
    Using Off White cast on 73(78)83(88)93 sts and purl the WS row. Begin the chevron pattern on row 1 of chart II: work the 2 sts at the right end of the chart, repeat the 28(30)32(34)36 st pattern 2 times, work the 15(16)17(18)19 sts at left. Work row 2 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–2 for the rest of the piece. Keep alternating 24(24)26(26)26 Off White rows and 24(24)26(26)26 Graphite rows.
    Note: Twist the yarns around each other at the side to avoid long floats, or break the non-working yarn.
    After 8 stripes in total (4 Off White, 4 Graphite), on every row decrease 14(15)16(17)18x1 st for the armhole at the right end. Note: Decrease 1 st instead of 2 sts at the right end (decrease by skp) and at the same time begin the neckline slanting: *at the left end decrease 5x1 st, work 1 row even*, repeat *–* until you have decreased half a pattern repeat. Continue the neckline decreases at the other half: increase 1 st every 6th row (2 fewer increases per 6 rows). When you reach a 2 st decrease, finish slanting the neckline. Now decrease by k2tog.
    When the armhole is the same height as on the back, bind off as established.
     
    Right front
    Mirror left front.
     
    Sleeves
    Determine where to start striping by the front piece. Begin striping on the sleeves 44(45)46(47)47(48) cm below the starting point of the armhole decreases.
    Cast on 59(63)67(71)75 sts and purl the WS row. Begin the chevron pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end of the chart, repeat the 28(30)32(34)36 st pattern 2 times, work the 1 st at left. Work row 2, increasing 1(0)0(0)0 st at both ends = 61(63)67(71)75 sts. Now keep repeating rows 1–2 and work stripes as established. Size S: increase 1 st at both ends on the next row = 63(63)67(71)75 sts. Work the increased sts in stockinette st.
    When the piece measures 5(7)7(8)8 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 2,5(2)2(2)2 cm 13(15)15(15)15 more times = 91(95)99(103)107 sts. Work the increased sts in stockinette st.
    When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)47(48) cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(7)7(7)7 sts, 1x3 sts and 3x2 sts at both ends (the increased sts are decreased). Keep working the chevron pattern. Keep decreasing at both ends by omitting the increases in the chevron pattern.
    When there is a 2 st decrease at both edges, bind off.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Finishing
    Sew the side seams and shoulder seams.
    Hem triangles
    There are a total of 10 empty triangles at the hem. You will fill out the triangles using Graphite. Pick up and knit sts from the RS of the work: 12(13)14(15)16 sts from one edge of the triangle, 1 st from the midpoint, 12(13)14(15)16 sts from the other edge = 25(27)29(31)33 sts. Turn work. WS: p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog through the back loop. RS: skp, k8(9)10(11)12, s2kp (= slip 2 sts knitwise, k1, pass the slipped sts over), k8(9)10(11)12, k2tog. Turn work. WS: p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog through the back loop. Keep decreasing as established until all sts have been decreased, then break yarn.
    Fill all empty triangles in the hem in this manner.
    Hem
    Using the smaller circular needle and Graphite pick up and knit sts from the RS of the work: 17(19)21(23)25 sts from each triangle + 1 st at the end of row = 171(191)211(231)251 sts. Work ribbing for 5 cm, then work a stretchy bind-off in pattern.
    Sleeve cuffs
    Sew the sleeve seams. Make the triangles as established. Using the double-pointed needles and Graphite pick up and knit sts from the RS of the work: 17(19)21(23)25 sts from both triangles and 1 st from the end of round = 35(39)43(47)51 sts. Work ribbing in the round for 5 cm, then work a stretchy bind-off in pattern. Work the other cuff in the same manner.
    Borders
    Using the smaller needles and Graphite pick up and knit sts from the RS of the left front edge. Cast on 1 st at the beginning of row and start picking at the midpoint of the back neckline. Pick up 15(15)16(16)18 sts from the neckline (the neckline is narrowed) and continue to the front neckline and front edge, picking up 3 sts for every 4 rows. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st. WS: p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 3 cm, then work a stretchy bind-off in pattern.
    Place markers for buttons. The topmost button should be at the starting point of the slanted neckline, the lowest one 1,5 cm from the hem and the other 7 evenly in between.
    Work the right border in the same manner. When the border measures 1,5 cm, make buttonholes at the spots you marked. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over. When the border measures 3 cm, work a stretchy bind-off in pattern.
    Attach the sleeves and sew on the buttons.
    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 94(104)114(124)134 cm / 37(41)45(48¾)52¾ in
    length 99(100)107(107)108 cm / 39(39¼)42¼(42¼)42½ in
    inner sleeve length 45(46)47(48)48 cm / 17¾(18)18½(19)19 in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Chevron pattern: work following the chart and instructions. Stockinette stitch: knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.
    Gauge One 28(30)32(34)36 st pattern repeat in chevron pattern = 9,5(10,5)11,5(12,5)13,5 cm / 3¾(4¼)4½(5)5¼ in; 26 rows = 10 cm / 4 in
    Note The hem will initially have a zigzag edge which is filled with triangles (see pattern for direction of knitting). The hem is then finished with ribbing.   


    Back
    Using Off White cast on 143(153)163(173)183 sts and purl the WS row.
    Begin the chevron pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right edge of the chart, repeat the 28(30)32(34)36 st pattern [= increase 1, k12(13)14(15)16, work 3 sts together, k12(13)14(15)16, increase 1, k1] 5 times, work the 1 st at left. Work row 2 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–2 for the rest of the piece. Keep alternating 24(24)26(26)26 Off White rows and 24(24)26(26)26 Graphite rows.
    Note: Twist the yarns around each other at the side to avoid long floats, or break the non-working yarn.
    After 8 stripes (4 Off White ones and 4 Graphite ones), decrease 14(15)16(17)18x1 st on every row at both ends for the armholes = 115(123)131(139)147 sts. Note: Now decrease 1 st instead of 2 sts at both ends (at the right end, skp, and at the left end, k2tog).
    When the armhole measures 21(22)23(23)24 cm, bind off as follows:
    Bind off half a pattern repeat: (RS) k1, skp, work 10(11)12(13)14 sts (2 sts remain before the middle st), k2tog, turn work. WS: p2tog, work to end. RS: k1, skp, work 8(9)10(11)12 sts, k2tog. Turn work. WS: p2tog, work to end. Keep decreasing as established until all sts of the half repeat have been decreased. Break yarn.
    Next full pattern repeat: (RS) k2tog, work 11(12)13(14)15 sts, s2kp (= slip 2 sts knitwise, k1, pass the slipped sts over), work 10(11)12(13)14 sts. Turn work. P2tog, work to last 2 sts, p2tog through the back loop. RS: k2tog, work 9(10)11(12)13 sts, s2kp, work 8(9)10(11912 sts, k2tog. Turn work. P2tog, work to last 2 sts, p2tog through the back loop. Keep decreasing as established until all sts have been decreased, then break yarn. Keep working as established until all back sts have been decreased.
     
    Left front
    Using Off White cast on 73(78)83(88)93 sts and purl the WS row. Begin the chevron pattern on row 1 of chart II: work the 2 sts at the right end of the chart, repeat the 28(30)32(34)36 st pattern 2 times, work the 15(16)17(18)19 sts at left. Work row 2 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1–2 for the rest of the piece. Keep alternating 24(24)26(26)26 Off White rows and 24(24)26(26)26 Graphite rows.
    Note: Twist the yarns around each other at the side to avoid long floats, or break the non-working yarn.
    After 8 stripes in total (4 Off White, 4 Graphite), on every row decrease 14(15)16(17)18x1 st for the armhole at the right end. Note: Decrease 1 st instead of 2 sts at the right end (decrease by skp) and at the same time begin the neckline slanting: *at the left end decrease 5x1 st, work 1 row even*, repeat *–* until you have decreased half a pattern repeat. Continue the neckline decreases at the other half: increase 1 st every 6th row (2 fewer increases per 6 rows). When you reach a 2 st decrease, finish slanting the neckline. Now decrease by k2tog.
    When the armhole is the same height as on the back, bind off as established.
     
    Right front
    Mirror left front.
     
    Sleeves
    Determine where to start striping by the front piece. Begin striping on the sleeves 44(45)46(47)47(48) cm below the starting point of the armhole decreases.
    Cast on 59(63)67(71)75 sts and purl the WS row. Begin the chevron pattern on row 1 of chart I: work the 2 sts at the right end of the chart, repeat the 28(30)32(34)36 st pattern 2 times, work the 1 st at left. Work row 2, increasing 1(0)0(0)0 st at both ends = 61(63)67(71)75 sts. Now keep repeating rows 1–2 and work stripes as established. Size S: increase 1 st at both ends on the next row = 63(63)67(71)75 sts. Work the increased sts in stockinette st.
    When the piece measures 5(7)7(8)8 cm, increase 1 st at both ends. Repeat the increases every 2,5(2)2(2)2 cm 13(15)15(15)15 more times = 91(95)99(103)107 sts. Work the increased sts in stockinette st.
    When the piece measures 44(45)46(47)47(48) cm, on every other row bind off 1x5(7)7(7)7 sts, 1x3 sts and 3x2 sts at both ends (the increased sts are decreased). Keep working the chevron pattern. Keep decreasing at both ends by omitting the increases in the chevron pattern.
    When there is a 2 st decrease at both edges, bind off.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Finishing
    Sew the side seams and shoulder seams.
    Hem triangles
    There are a total of 10 empty triangles at the hem. You will fill out the triangles using Graphite. Pick up and knit sts from the RS of the work: 12(13)14(15)16 sts from one edge of the triangle, 1 st from the midpoint, 12(13)14(15)16 sts from the other edge = 25(27)29(31)33 sts. Turn work. WS: p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog through the back loop. RS: skp, k8(9)10(11)12, s2kp (= slip 2 sts knitwise, k1, pass the slipped sts over), k8(9)10(11)12, k2tog. Turn work. WS: p2tog, purl to last 2 sts, p2tog through the back loop. Keep decreasing as established until all sts have been decreased, then break yarn.
    Fill all empty triangles in the hem in this manner.
    Hem
    Using the smaller circular needle and Graphite pick up and knit sts from the RS of the work: 17(19)21(23)25 sts from each triangle + 1 st at the end of row = 171(191)211(231)251 sts. Work ribbing for 5 cm, then work a stretchy bind-off in pattern.
    Sleeve cuffs
    Sew the sleeve seams. Make the triangles as established. Using the double-pointed needles and Graphite pick up and knit sts from the RS of the work: 17(19)21(23)25 sts from both triangles and 1 st from the end of round = 35(39)43(47)51 sts. Work ribbing in the round for 5 cm, then work a stretchy bind-off in pattern. Work the other cuff in the same manner.
    Borders
    Using the smaller needles and Graphite pick up and knit sts from the RS of the left front edge. Cast on 1 st at the beginning of row and start picking at the midpoint of the back neckline. Pick up 15(15)16(16)18 sts from the neckline (the neckline is narrowed) and continue to the front neckline and front edge, picking up 3 sts for every 4 rows. Make sure the number of sts is divisible by 2 + 1 st. WS: p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Work ribbing for 3 cm, then work a stretchy bind-off in pattern.
    Place markers for buttons. The topmost button should be at the starting point of the slanted neckline, the lowest one 1,5 cm from the hem and the other 7 evenly in between.
    Work the right border in the same manner. When the border measures 1,5 cm, make buttonholes at the spots you marked. Buttonhole: work 2 sts together, yarn over. When the border measures 3 cm, work a stretchy bind-off in pattern.
    Attach the sleeves and sew on the buttons.

    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Here you find size guides for your knitting projects!




     
     




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