Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Nalle: Kielo Knitted Cardigan
As low as €5.95
The Kielo cardigan (Finnish for lily of the valley) is full of delicate details that signify early summer. The shoulder seams, and the button bands with the wave pattern, give the cardigan a neat look. The delicate Kielo cardigan is knitted from Novita Nalle yarn, in the color Flax.
Novita Kesä 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
20
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N022220
Novita Nalle
As low as
€5.95
Size
XS(S/M)L/XL(XXL)Yarn demand
Novita Nalle
(061) Flax 400(450)500(600) g
Needles and other supplies
Needles: Novita circular needle (80 cm) and dpns in size 3.5 mm (US 4/UK 10 or 9) and 4 mm (US 6/UK 8) or size needed to fit gauge, a crochet hook: Novita 3.5 mm (US 8/UK 6)
Notions: 6 buttons
Designer
Essi KyllönenFront and back, lower part
The cardigan is worked in one piece, from the bottom up to the armholes, with opening mid front.
Loosely CO 170(183)209(235) sts using the smaller size circ. ndls. Work 6 cm/2.4” ribbing back and forth, end with a WS row. Change to larger size ndls and work 2 rows in st st.
Continue working lace pattern acc to chart I, row 1, as follows: k1, then work patt rep of 13 sts 13(14)16(18) times. Work rows 2-28 of the chart, then rep rows 1-28.
When work measures 31(30)29(32) cm/12.2(11.8)11.4(12.6)”, place removable markers on both sides (or use a contrast colored piece of yarn), as follows: place first M around the 47th(47th)53rd(60th) stitch from the right, place second M around 47th(47th)53rd(60th) stitch from the left. Now divide work into 3 parts: work the next RS row in pattern to first M, BO marked st for armhole, work in pattern to second armhole, BO marked st for second armhole and work in pattern to end of row. Both front parts now have 46(46)52(59) sts and back part has 76(89)103(115) sts.
Place sts of right front and back on hold and finish left front first. Make a note of the last worked row of the chart.
Left front, upper part
46(46)52(59) sts of left front.
Note: In the lace pattern, every decrease is accompanied by a yarn over, so the number of stitches always remains the same. When one of the two is decreased, this decrease pair is no longer worked and the stitch is worked as k1.
When armhole depth measures 10(12)15(15) cm/4(4.7)6(6)”, BO 10(8)8(8) sts at the left side of the work, for the neck opening, and at the neck opening of every following 2nd row, BO 5(4)4(4) sts once, 3 sts once, 2 sts 2(1)1(1) time(s) and 1 st 3(2)1(2) time(s).
When armhole depth measures 18(21)24(24) cm/7.1(8.3) 9.5(9.5)”, BO the rem 21(27)34(40) shoulder-sts, or place them on hold, to graft the shoulders-sts of front and back together later.
Right front, upper part
Continue working lace pattern across the 46(46)52(59) sts of right front, starting with the same row of lace pattern chart as for left front.
When armhole depth measures 10(12)15(15) cm/4(4.7)6(6)”, BO 10(8)8(8) sts at the right side of the work, for the neck opening, and at the neck opening of every following 2nd row, BO 5(4)4(4) sts once, 3 sts once, 2 sts 2(1)1(1) time(s) and 1 st 3(2)1(2) time(s).
When armhole depth measures 18(21)24(24) cm/7.1(8.3) 9.5(9.5)”, BO the rem 21(27)34(40) shoulder-sts, or place them on hold, to graft the shoulders-sts of front and back together later.
Back, upper part
Continue working lace pattern across the 76(89)103(115) back-sts, starting with the same row of lace pattern chart as for front parts.
When armhole depth measures 16(19)22(22) cm/6.3(7.5)8.7(8.7)”, BO the middle 26(27)27(27) sts and work each shoulder separately. In every 2nd row, BO 2 sts twice, for the neck opening.
When armhole depth measures 19(22)24(24) cm/7.5(8.7) 9.5(9.5)”, BO the rem 21(27)34(40) shoulder-sts, or place them on hold, to graft the shoulders-sts of front and back together later
Work the second shoulder in the same way, but reverse shaping.
Sleeves
Sew or graft the shoulder seams.
With RS facing and using the larger size dpns, PUK 78(91)104(104) sts along armhole edge and place marker to mark beg of rnd.
Knit 1 rnd.
Work lace pattern in the rnd acc to chart II, row 1 and work patt rep of 13 sts 6(7)8(8) times. Work rows 2-28 of the chart, then rep rows 1-28.
When sleeve measures 35(36)37(37) cm/13.8(14.2)14.6(14.6)”, BO 39(45)52(52) sts in the next rnd, as follows: k0(1)0(0), *k2tog, rep from * to end of rnd = 39(46)52(52) sts.
Change to smaller size dpns and continue working ribbing in the round. For size XS: dec 1 more st in the first rnd = 38(46)52(52) sts.
When sleeve measures 52(53)54(54) cm/20.5(20.9)21.3(21.3)”, loosely BO all sts.
Work second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Collar at neckline: with RS facing and using the smaller size circ. ndl, PUK 96 sts, as follows: 30 sts from neckline at front part, 36 sts from back neckline and another 30 sts from neckline at second front part. Turn work and in the next WS row, knit all sts. Work 7 more rows in reverse st st. In the next WS row, purl all sts (= folding ridge) and work 8 more rows in reverse st st. In the next RS row, BO all sts purlwise. Fold the collar in half and sew on the RS of the work, so that the chain of stitches, formed by the BO, remains visible on the RS. You can also choose not to bind off the stitches, but instead secure the live collar sts by crocheting single crochets.
Left front button band: with RS facing and using the smaller size circ. ndl, PUK 21 sts per 10 cm/4” from left front edge and from the collar at the neckline. PUK 1 extra st on each side, for the seam. The total number of sts should be divisible by 4 + 3 sts. Work 7 rows in st st, end with a WS row. Knit a picot edge, which will serve as folding edge, as follows: in the next RS row * k2, k2tog, yo, rep from * to the last 3 sts, k3. Work 7 rows in st st and BO all sts. Fold the button band in half and secure at the inside.
Mark the places for the buttonholes on the button band, with the top and bottom button at a distance of 3 sts from the edge and the remaining 4 buttonholes evenly spaced in between. One buttonhole will be 4 sts wide.
Button band at right front: work in the same way as described for left button band, but work buttonholes at the spots corresponding to the marked spots on the left front piece, when 1 WS row has been worked.
How to work a buttonhole: *knit the RS row to 1 st before first buttonhole, drop working yarn and take a piece of scrap yarn to knit the next 4 sts for the buttonhole, move these sts back onto the left ndl and knit the sts again, using the working yarn, rep from * to end of row.
Now you have 6 small stripes, knitted with a piece of scrap yarn, over 4 sts in the button band. There are no buttonholes yet.
Work in st st for 5 rows, ending with a WS row, work picot edge as described for left front, work another 5 rows in st st and work another set of buttonholes at the same spots as before, as described above. Fold the button band in half and secure at the inside.
Finish the buttonholes by grafting the sts together, as follows: remove the scrap yarn and place the live sts back onto a ndl. Graft the live sts of the outside of the button band and the corresponding sts on the inside (the button band-facing) together.
Weave in all ends and sew buttons on left button band.
Place work inside out onto a flat surface, dampen and leave to dry or lightly steam the cardigan, which will open up the lace pattern nicely.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
circ. = circular
CO = cast on
dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
LH = left hand
M = marker
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
RH = right hand
skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
WS = wrong side
yo(‘s) = yarn over(s)
Finished dimensions
Finished measurements:
Chest circumference: 82(88)100(112) cm/32.3(34.7)39.4(44.1)”
Total length: 49(51)53(56) cm/19.3(20.1)20.9(22.1)”
Underarm length: 52(53)54(54) cm/20.5(20.9)21.3(21.3)”
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns: Ribbing: *k1, p1, rep from *. In the following rows, work the sts as they appear. Garter st: knit all sts on RS and WS rows. Lace pattern: Work acc to chart and written instructions. Stockinette stitch: knit the RS rows, purl the WS rows. Reverse stockinette stitch: purl the RS rows, knit the WS rows.
Crochet stitches: single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), to form the bobbles in the lace pattern.
Note: In the legend, US crochet terms are used for the instructions on how to crochet the bobble. Sometimes, they differ from UK terms. At the end of the pattern, you can find a list of Abbreviation & Term Differences between the U.S./Canada and United Kingdom (U.K.). Please check this list if you are used to the UK terms!
Gauge/Tension: 22 sts in lace pattern, using the larger size ndls = 10 cm/4”
Front and back, lower part
The cardigan is worked in one piece, from the bottom up to the armholes, with opening mid front.
Loosely CO 170(183)209(235) sts using the smaller size circ. ndls. Work 6 cm/2.4” ribbing back and forth, end with a WS row. Change to larger size ndls and work 2 rows in st st.
Continue working lace pattern acc to chart I, row 1, as follows: k1, then work patt rep of 13 sts 13(14)16(18) times. Work rows 2-28 of the chart, then rep rows 1-28.
When work measures 31(30)29(32) cm/12.2(11.8)11.4(12.6)”, place removable markers on both sides (or use a contrast colored piece of yarn), as follows: place first M around the 47th(47th)53rd(60th) stitch from the right, place second M around 47th(47th)53rd(60th) stitch from the left. Now divide work into 3 parts: work the next RS row in pattern to first M, BO marked st for armhole, work in pattern to second armhole, BO marked st for second armhole and work in pattern to end of row. Both front parts now have 46(46)52(59) sts and back part has 76(89)103(115) sts.
Place sts of right front and back on hold and finish left front first. Make a note of the last worked row of the chart.
Left front, upper part
46(46)52(59) sts of left front.
Note: In the lace pattern, every decrease is accompanied by a yarn over, so the number of stitches always remains the same. When one of the two is decreased, this decrease pair is no longer worked and the stitch is worked as k1.
When armhole depth measures 10(12)15(15) cm/4(4.7)6(6)”, BO 10(8)8(8) sts at the left side of the work, for the neck opening, and at the neck opening of every following 2nd row, BO 5(4)4(4) sts once, 3 sts once, 2 sts 2(1)1(1) time(s) and 1 st 3(2)1(2) time(s).
When armhole depth measures 18(21)24(24) cm/7.1(8.3) 9.5(9.5)”, BO the rem 21(27)34(40) shoulder-sts, or place them on hold, to graft the shoulders-sts of front and back together later.
Right front, upper part
Continue working lace pattern across the 46(46)52(59) sts of right front, starting with the same row of lace pattern chart as for left front.
When armhole depth measures 10(12)15(15) cm/4(4.7)6(6)”, BO 10(8)8(8) sts at the right side of the work, for the neck opening, and at the neck opening of every following 2nd row, BO 5(4)4(4) sts once, 3 sts once, 2 sts 2(1)1(1) time(s) and 1 st 3(2)1(2) time(s).
When armhole depth measures 18(21)24(24) cm/7.1(8.3) 9.5(9.5)”, BO the rem 21(27)34(40) shoulder-sts, or place them on hold, to graft the shoulders-sts of front and back together later.
Back, upper part
Continue working lace pattern across the 76(89)103(115) back-sts, starting with the same row of lace pattern chart as for front parts.
When armhole depth measures 16(19)22(22) cm/6.3(7.5)8.7(8.7)”, BO the middle 26(27)27(27) sts and work each shoulder separately. In every 2nd row, BO 2 sts twice, for the neck opening.
When armhole depth measures 19(22)24(24) cm/7.5(8.7) 9.5(9.5)”, BO the rem 21(27)34(40) shoulder-sts, or place them on hold, to graft the shoulders-sts of front and back together later
Work the second shoulder in the same way, but reverse shaping.
Sleeves
Sew or graft the shoulder seams.
With RS facing and using the larger size dpns, PUK 78(91)104(104) sts along armhole edge and place marker to mark beg of rnd.
Knit 1 rnd.
Work lace pattern in the rnd acc to chart II, row 1 and work patt rep of 13 sts 6(7)8(8) times. Work rows 2-28 of the chart, then rep rows 1-28.
When sleeve measures 35(36)37(37) cm/13.8(14.2)14.6(14.6)”, BO 39(45)52(52) sts in the next rnd, as follows: k0(1)0(0), *k2tog, rep from * to end of rnd = 39(46)52(52) sts.
Change to smaller size dpns and continue working ribbing in the round. For size XS: dec 1 more st in the first rnd = 38(46)52(52) sts.
When sleeve measures 52(53)54(54) cm/20.5(20.9)21.3(21.3)”, loosely BO all sts.
Work second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Collar at neckline: with RS facing and using the smaller size circ. ndl, PUK 96 sts, as follows: 30 sts from neckline at front part, 36 sts from back neckline and another 30 sts from neckline at second front part. Turn work and in the next WS row, knit all sts. Work 7 more rows in reverse st st. In the next WS row, purl all sts (= folding ridge) and work 8 more rows in reverse st st. In the next RS row, BO all sts purlwise. Fold the collar in half and sew on the RS of the work, so that the chain of stitches, formed by the BO, remains visible on the RS. You can also choose not to bind off the stitches, but instead secure the live collar sts by crocheting single crochets.
Left front button band: with RS facing and using the smaller size circ. ndl, PUK 21 sts per 10 cm/4” from left front edge and from the collar at the neckline. PUK 1 extra st on each side, for the seam. The total number of sts should be divisible by 4 + 3 sts. Work 7 rows in st st, end with a WS row. Knit a picot edge, which will serve as folding edge, as follows: in the next RS row * k2, k2tog, yo, rep from * to the last 3 sts, k3. Work 7 rows in st st and BO all sts. Fold the button band in half and secure at the inside.
Mark the places for the buttonholes on the button band, with the top and bottom button at a distance of 3 sts from the edge and the remaining 4 buttonholes evenly spaced in between. One buttonhole will be 4 sts wide.
Button band at right front: work in the same way as described for left button band, but work buttonholes at the spots corresponding to the marked spots on the left front piece, when 1 WS row has been worked.
How to work a buttonhole: *knit the RS row to 1 st before first buttonhole, drop working yarn and take a piece of scrap yarn to knit the next 4 sts for the buttonhole, move these sts back onto the left ndl and knit the sts again, using the working yarn, rep from * to end of row.
Now you have 6 small stripes, knitted with a piece of scrap yarn, over 4 sts in the button band. There are no buttonholes yet.
Work in st st for 5 rows, ending with a WS row, work picot edge as described for left front, work another 5 rows in st st and work another set of buttonholes at the same spots as before, as described above. Fold the button band in half and secure at the inside.
Finish the buttonholes by grafting the sts together, as follows: remove the scrap yarn and place the live sts back onto a ndl. Graft the live sts of the outside of the button band and the corresponding sts on the inside (the button band-facing) together.
Weave in all ends and sew buttons on left button band.
Place work inside out onto a flat surface, dampen and leave to dry or lightly steam the cardigan, which will open up the lace pattern nicely.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
circ. = circular
CO = cast on
dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)
dec(‘s) = decrease(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
LH = left hand
M = marker
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
RH = right hand
skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
WS = wrong side
yo(‘s) = yarn over(s)
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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