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Novita Nalle: Hallavaara colourwork socks

As low as €3.30

These traditional embroidered socks and mittens is a lovely set of soft accessories. This is also a perfect hand made gift for the little ones.
Magazine Novita Talvi 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 12
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Nalle: Hallavaara colourwork socks
Novita Nalle-010 Off-white
€5.90
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-3.0 mm
€3.30
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-3.5 mm
€3.30

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Novita Nalle: Hallavaara colourwork socks
Novita Nalle: Hallavaara colourwork socks

In stock

€3.30

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N042012
    Pattern details
    Size
    43/44

    Yarn demand

    Novita Nalle

    (010) Off White 100 g and

    (044) Graphite 100 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Double-pointed needles Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3½ mm (US 4) or sizes needed to obtain gauge



    Designer
    Lea Petäjä

    Details

    Using Graphite and the smaller double-pointed needles, cast on 76 sts and divide them onto four needles, 19 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 2 sts on each needle = 84 sts. Knit 1 round using Off White.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I. Repeat the 14 st pattern 6 times. Work rows 2-27 of the chart.

    Knit 1 round using Off White, evenly decreasing 2 sts on each needle = 76 sts.

    Continue on row 28 of chart I. Repeat the 4 st pattern 19 times. Work rows 29-33 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 28-33. At the same time decrease 4x1 st every 2,5 cm at the beginning and end of round: at the beginning of round, k2tog; at the end of round, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over). 68 sts on the needles after the decreases, 17 sts per needle. Note that the pattern is broken at the beginning of round.

    Note: When the leg measures approx. 26 cm and you have last worked row 32 of the chart, break the yarns.

    Begin the heel flap: move the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 34 sts. Leave the other sts on hold and turn work. Using Graphite begin the reinforced stitch pattern and on the first row decrease 2 sts (= 32 sts):

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 16 times (= 32 rows), then work the WS row once more.

    Begin turning the heel. Continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work until 11 sts remain at the left end. Skp, turn work. Slip 1, p10, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 10 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 12 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 6 sts each. Knit the 6 sts on the right. The beginning of round is now here.

    Using a free needle and Off White, pick up 16 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Note: At the beginning of needle II, k2tog. Pick up 16 sts from the right end of the flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle IV. 79 sts on the needles.

    Resume the pattern on row 1 of chart II. Work rows 2−11 of the chart. Work the gusset decreases following the chart. 67 sts on the needles: 17 sts on needles I, III and IV, 16 sts on needle II.

    Work rows 12-39 of the chart, then keep repeating row 39.

    When the foot measures approx. 23 cm or when the sock covers the fifth toe, begin toe decreases. At the end of needle I, k2tog using Graphite; at the beginning of needle II, k1 using Off White, skp. At the end of needle III, k2tog using Off White, k1; at the beginning of needle IV, skp using Graphite.

    Work the decreases as established on every other round until 10 sts remain on needles I, III and IV and 9 sts remain on needle II. Then work the decreases on every round.

    When 7 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Shoe size approx. 43/44 (EUR)

    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Using Graphite and the smaller double-pointed needles, cast on 76 sts and divide them onto four needles, 19 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 2 sts on each needle = 84 sts. Knit 1 round using Off White.

    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I. Repeat the 14 st pattern 6 times. Work rows 2-27 of the chart.

    Knit 1 round using Off White, evenly decreasing 2 sts on each needle = 76 sts.

    Continue on row 28 of chart I. Repeat the 4 st pattern 19 times. Work rows 29-33 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 28-33. At the same time decrease 4x1 st every 2,5 cm at the beginning and end of round: at the beginning of round, k2tog; at the end of round, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over). 68 sts on the needles after the decreases, 17 sts per needle. Note that the pattern is broken at the beginning of round.

    Note: When the leg measures approx. 26 cm and you have last worked row 32 of the chart, break the yarns.

    Begin the heel flap: move the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 34 sts. Leave the other sts on hold and turn work. Using Graphite begin the reinforced stitch pattern and on the first row decrease 2 sts (= 32 sts):

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 1-2 a total of 16 times (= 32 rows), then work the WS row once more.

    Begin turning the heel. Continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work until 11 sts remain at the left end. Skp, turn work. Slip 1, p10, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 10 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 12 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 6 sts each. Knit the 6 sts on the right. The beginning of round is now here.

    Using a free needle and Off White, pick up 16 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle I. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Note: At the beginning of needle II, k2tog. Pick up 16 sts from the right end of the flap + 1 st from between the needles. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop onto needle IV. 79 sts on the needles.

    Resume the pattern on row 1 of chart II. Work rows 2−11 of the chart. Work the gusset decreases following the chart. 67 sts on the needles: 17 sts on needles I, III and IV, 16 sts on needle II.

    Work rows 12-39 of the chart, then keep repeating row 39.

    When the foot measures approx. 23 cm or when the sock covers the fifth toe, begin toe decreases. At the end of needle I, k2tog using Graphite; at the beginning of needle II, k1 using Off White, skp. At the end of needle III, k2tog using Off White, k1; at the beginning of needle IV, skp using Graphite.

    Work the decreases as established on every other round until 10 sts remain on needles I, III and IV and 9 sts remain on needle II. Then work the decreases on every round.

    When 7 sts remain, break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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