Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
As low as €6.96
Availability: In stock
Novita Nalle
(010) Off White 50(<100) g
(099) Black 50(50) g
Double-pointed needles Novita 3½ mm (US 4) or size needed
Left mitten
Using Black cast on 48(52) sts and divide them onto four needles, 12(13) sts each. The beginning of round is between needles IV and I. Work ribbing in the round for 1 round.
Switch to the Off White yarn and work ribbing until the piece measures 6 cm. Knit 1 round and increase 1 st on each needle. 52(56) sts on the needles, 13(14) sts each.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I(II). Then work rows 2-18(20) of the chart.
Continue on row 19(21): work the 13(14) sts on needle I, work the first st of needle II, work the next 10(11) sts (marked in red) using a different-coloured yarn (thumb opening). Move the 10(11) sts back to the left-hand needle and work to end of round following the chart.
Women's size: Work rows 20-60. On row 49, 1 st decreased on needles I and III. On rows 50-60, 1 st decreased on each needle.
Men's size: Work rows 22-66. On row 54, 1 st decreased on needles I and III. On rows 55-66, 1 st decreased on each needle.
Move the sts on needles I and II onto the same needle, slip 1 knitwise, k2tog using Off White, pass the slipped st over. Work needles III and IV in the same manner; decrease using Black. Break the yarns, pull them through the last sts and securely weave in.
Right mitten
Mirror left mitten, working the thumb hole on needle III.
Thumb
Remove the different-coloured yarn. Pick up the sts from both edges of the thumb hole. Pick up additional sts from both sides for 24(26) sts in total. Divide the sts onto four needles. Work colourwork in the round, maintaining the pattern established in the palm. When you have worked for 5(5,5) cm or when the mitten covers half the thumbnail, begin top decreases. K2tog at the end of each needle until 4 sts remain. Then k1 and pass the other sts over from left to right. Break the yarns, pull them through the st and securely weave in.
Finishing
Steam the mittens lightly.
Stitch patterns
Ribbing in the round:
*k1, p1*
Left mitten
Using Black cast on 48(52) sts and divide them onto four needles, 12(13) sts each. The beginning of round is between needles IV and I. Work ribbing in the round for 1 round.
Switch to the Off White yarn and work ribbing until the piece measures 6 cm. Knit 1 round and increase 1 st on each needle. 52(56) sts on the needles, 13(14) sts each.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of chart I(II). Then work rows 2-18(20) of the chart.
Continue on row 19(21): work the 13(14) sts on needle I, work the first st of needle II, work the next 10(11) sts (marked in red) using a different-coloured yarn (thumb opening). Move the 10(11) sts back to the left-hand needle and work to end of round following the chart.
Women's size: Work rows 20-60. On row 49, 1 st decreased on needles I and III. On rows 50-60, 1 st decreased on each needle.
Men's size: Work rows 22-66. On row 54, 1 st decreased on needles I and III. On rows 55-66, 1 st decreased on each needle.
Move the sts on needles I and II onto the same needle, slip 1 knitwise, k2tog using Off White, pass the slipped st over. Work needles III and IV in the same manner; decrease using Black. Break the yarns, pull them through the last sts and securely weave in.
Right mitten
Mirror left mitten, working the thumb hole on needle III.
Thumb
Remove the different-coloured yarn. Pick up the sts from both edges of the thumb hole. Pick up additional sts from both sides for 24(26) sts in total. Divide the sts onto four needles. Work colourwork in the round, maintaining the pattern established in the palm. When you have worked for 5(5,5) cm or when the mitten covers half the thumbnail, begin top decreases. K2tog at the end of each needle until 4 sts remain. Then k1 and pass the other sts over from left to right. Break the yarns, pull them through the st and securely weave in.
Finishing
Steam the mittens lightly.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.