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Novita Nalle: Dolce cable socks

As low as €6.90

The Dolce socks are a pair of over-the-knee cable socks, knitted from cuff to toe using Novita Nalle. You can fold the cuff or leave it unfolded to make the socks even longer.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 12
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Nalle: Dolce cable socks
Novita Nalle-061 Linen
€5.90
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.0 mm
€6.90

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Novita Nalle: Dolce cable socks
Novita Nalle: Dolce cable socks

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N012112
    Pattern details
    Size
    Yksi koko

    Yarn demand

    Novita Nalle

    (031) Linen 250 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Double-pointed needles Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3½ mm (US 4) or sizes needed to obtain gauge



    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Using the larger needles, cast on 92 sts and divide them onto four needles, 23 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Beginning with k1, work ribbing in the round for 16 cm.

    Switch to the smaller needles. Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: work 26 st cable pattern, p2, work 61 sts in ribbing, p3. Work rows 2-12 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-12. With the 2 sts to the left of the cable section and the 3 sts to the right of the cable section, work reverse stockinette st; with the other sts, work ribbing.

    When the leg measures 26 cm, decrease 1 st at both edges of the ribbing: work 26 sts in cable pattern, p1, p2tog, work to last 4 sts, p2tog, p2 = 90 sts. Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 14 more times = 62 sts.

    When the leg measures 56 cm, work next round until 3 sts remain.

    Redistribute the sts so that there are 16 sts each on needles II and III (the last 3 sts, 26 cable sts, 3 sts to the left of the cable section) = 32 sts. Move the 30 heel sts onto needle IV, turn work and begin reinforced st pattern:

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl the remaining 29 heel flap sts. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end of flap. Turn work.

    Row 3: slip 1 with yarn in front, purl to end. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 2-3 14 more times. 30 rows in total.

    Begin French heel turn:

    Row 1: k17 (half of the heel flap sts + 2 sts), k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.

    Row 2: slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Row 3: slip 1, k6, k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.

    Row 4: slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Continue in this manner until all sts have been worked.

    Knit the remaining sts and divide them onto two neeedles. Using a free needle pick up 15 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Using the left-hand sole needle knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III, p3, work next row of 26 st cable pattern, p3. Using the right-hand sole needle, pick up 15 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the heel flap sts. From now on work needles I and IV in stockinette st.

    At the same time begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at thebeginning of needle IV, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over). Repeat the decreases on every other round until 14 sts remain on needles I and IV = 60 sts.

    Work as established until the foot measures approx. 20 cm or until the sock covers your fifth toe. Knit 1 round, decreasing 2 sts on needle II and 2 sts on needle III = 56 sts.

    Work stockinette st for the rest of the sock and begin toe decreases: at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp; at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1. Decrease as established on every other round 7 more times until 6 sts remain on each needle. Redistribute the sts onto two needles, 12 sts each on instep and sole. Graft the sts together.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Securely weave in all ends. Lightly steam the socks.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions
    Kengän koko noin 38/39

    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Using the larger needles, cast on 92 sts and divide them onto four needles, 23 sts each. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Beginning with k1, work ribbing in the round for 16 cm.

    Switch to the smaller needles. Begin the cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: work 26 st cable pattern, p2, work 61 sts in ribbing, p3. Work rows 2-12 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-12. With the 2 sts to the left of the cable section and the 3 sts to the right of the cable section, work reverse stockinette st; with the other sts, work ribbing.

    When the leg measures 26 cm, decrease 1 st at both edges of the ribbing: work 26 sts in cable pattern, p1, p2tog, work to last 4 sts, p2tog, p2 = 90 sts. Repeat the decreases every 2 cm 14 more times = 62 sts.

    When the leg measures 56 cm, work next round until 3 sts remain.

    Redistribute the sts so that there are 16 sts each on needles II and III (the last 3 sts, 26 cable sts, 3 sts to the left of the cable section) = 32 sts. Move the 30 heel sts onto needle IV, turn work and begin reinforced st pattern:

    Row 1: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl the remaining 29 heel flap sts. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end of flap. Turn work.

    Row 3: slip 1 with yarn in front, purl to end. Turn work.

    Repeat rows 2-3 14 more times. 30 rows in total.

    Begin French heel turn:

    Row 1: k17 (half of the heel flap sts + 2 sts), k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.

    Row 2: slip 1, p5, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Row 3: slip 1, k6, k2tog through the back loop, k1. Turn work.

    Row 4: slip 1, p7, p2tog, p1. Turn work.

    Continue in this manner until all sts have been worked.

    Knit the remaining sts and divide them onto two neeedles. Using a free needle pick up 15 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Using the left-hand sole needle knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III, p3, work next row of 26 st cable pattern, p3. Using the right-hand sole needle, pick up 15 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the heel flap sts. From now on work needles I and IV in stockinette st.

    At the same time begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at thebeginning of needle IV, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over). Repeat the decreases on every other round until 14 sts remain on needles I and IV = 60 sts.

    Work as established until the foot measures approx. 20 cm or until the sock covers your fifth toe. Knit 1 round, decreasing 2 sts on needle II and 2 sts on needle III = 56 sts.

    Work stockinette st for the rest of the sock and begin toe decreases: at the beginning of needles II and IV, k1, skp; at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1. Decrease as established on every other round 7 more times until 6 sts remain on each needle. Redistribute the sts onto two needles, 12 sts each on instep and sole. Graft the sts together.

    Knit the other sock in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Securely weave in all ends. Lightly steam the socks.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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