Novita Muumitalo: Ohdake sweater

As low as €6.96

Ohdake is a top-down sweater knitted from Novita Muumitalo, with a stunning black-and-white colourwork yoke.
Novita Syksy 2020 -lehti (in Finnish)
11
Intermediate
Customize Novita Muumitalo: Ohdake sweater

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    €6.96

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    Availability: In stock

    N032011
    Size
    XS/S(M)L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand
    Novita Muumitalo
    (007) Moomintroll 500(550)600(650)700 g and
    (099) Stinky <100(<100)100(100)100 g


    Needles and other supplies
    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in and 80 cm / 32 in) and double-pointed needles (for the sleeves

    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Yoke
    Using the short circular needle cast on 104(110)114(114)120 sts (cast on loosely; the neckline is folded and the cast-on edge is sewn to the WS) and place marker for beginning of round. The beginning of round is at the back midpoint. Work ribbing in the round for 7 cm.
    Work stockinette st in the round, evenly increasing 6(10)16(16)20 sts (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop) = 110(120)130(130)140 sts.
    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 10+2 st pattern 11(12)13(13)14 times = 132(144)156(156)168 sts. Work rows 2-52 of the chart. 2 sts increased on rows 3, 6, 10, 13, 19, 22, 26 and 29. 308(336)364(364)392 sts now on the needles.
    Break off the Stinky yarn and work stockinette st using Moomintroll.
    After 2 rounds, begin short rows:
    Row 1: k99(108)117(117)126. Turn work, yarn over.
    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to beginning of round marker, slip marker, p98(107)116(116)125. Turn work, yarn over.
    Row 3: (RS) double stitch, knit to beginning of round marker, slip marker, knit to last 10 sts before next double st. Turn work, yarn over.
    Row 4: (WS) double stitch, purl to beginning of round marker, slip marker, purl to last 10 sts before next double st. Turn work, yarn over.
    Repeat rows 3-4 3 more times. On the next round work stockinette st. Knit the double sts as if to knit them together. With all sts work stockinette st until the front yoke measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm from the bottom edge of the ribbing.
    On the next round separate the sleeves: knit 46(51)55(56)60 back sts, leave next 62(67)72(70)76 sts on hold for the right sleeve, cast on 8(8)8(12)12 for the armhole, place marker, cast on 8(9)8(12)12 sts for the other side of the armhole (the marker is at the midpoint of the armhole). Knit 92(101)110(112)120 front sts, leave 62(67)72(70)76 sts on hold for the left sleeve, cast on 8(8)8(12)12 sts for the other armhole, place marker, cast on 8(9)8(12)12 sts. Work to next marker, remove marker, work to next marker. The beginning of round is now here. 216(236)252(272)288 sts now on the needles.
     
    Body
    With the 216(236)252(272)288 front and back sts work stockinette st in the round.
    When the body measures 6(7)7(8)8 cm from the armhole, decrease 1 st on both sides of the side markers: *k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work stockinette st to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker*, repeat *-*. 4 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases every 2,5 cm 3 more times = 200(220)236(256)272 sts.
    When the body measures 16(17)17(18)18 cm from the armhole, increase 1 st on both sides of the markers: *k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work stockinette st to last st before marker, increase 1, k1, slip marker*, repeat *-*. 4 sts increased. Repeat the increases every 2,5 cm 3 more times = 216(236)252(272)288 sts.
    When the body measures 31(32)33(34)35 cm from the armhole, work ribbing in the round with all sts for 5 cm.
    Loosely bind off in pattern.
     
    Sleeves
    Place the 62(67)72(70)76 sleeve sts onto the needles. Using Moomintroll pick up and knit sts from the armhole edge. Begin at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on and pick up 8(8)8(12)12 sts, knit the 62(67)72(70)76 sleeve sts, pick up 8(9)8(12)12 sts from the other end = 78(84)88(94)100 sts. Place marker for beginning of round and work stockinette in the round. Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
    When the sleeve measures 3(3)3(3)2 cm from the armhole, decrease 1 st on both sides of the marker: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 3(2,5)2,5(2)2 cm 12(14)15(18)20 more times = 52(54)56(56)58 sts.
    When the sleeve measures 41(42)43(43)44 cm from the armhole, work ribbing in the round for 5 cm.
    Loosely bind off in pattern.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Finishing
    Fold the neck ribbing and sew the edge to the inside.
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly.
    Finished dimensions
    body circumference 94(102)110(118)126 cm / 37(40¼)43¼(46½)49½ in
    front length (without neck ribbing) 56(58)60(62)64 cm / 22(22¾)23½(24½)25¼ in
    back length (without neck ribbing) 59(61)63(65)67 cm / 23¼(24)24¾(25½)26½ in
    inner sleeve length 46(47)48(48)49 cm / 18(18½)19(19)19¼ in


    Stitch patterns & gauge
    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Yoke
    Using the short circular needle cast on 104(110)114(114)120 sts (cast on loosely; the neckline is folded and the cast-on edge is sewn to the WS) and place marker for beginning of round. The beginning of round is at the back midpoint. Work ribbing in the round for 7 cm.
    Work stockinette st in the round, evenly increasing 6(10)16(16)20 sts (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop) = 110(120)130(130)140 sts.
    Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 10+2 st pattern 11(12)13(13)14 times = 132(144)156(156)168 sts. Work rows 2-52 of the chart. 2 sts increased on rows 3, 6, 10, 13, 19, 22, 26 and 29. 308(336)364(364)392 sts now on the needles.
    Break off the Stinky yarn and work stockinette st using Moomintroll.
    After 2 rounds, begin short rows:
    Row 1: k99(108)117(117)126. Turn work, yarn over.
    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to beginning of round marker, slip marker, p98(107)116(116)125. Turn work, yarn over.
    Row 3: (RS) double stitch, knit to beginning of round marker, slip marker, knit to last 10 sts before next double st. Turn work, yarn over.
    Row 4: (WS) double stitch, purl to beginning of round marker, slip marker, purl to last 10 sts before next double st. Turn work, yarn over.
    Repeat rows 3-4 3 more times. On the next round work stockinette st. Knit the double sts as if to knit them together. With all sts work stockinette st until the front yoke measures 20(21)22(22)23 cm from the bottom edge of the ribbing.
    On the next round separate the sleeves: knit 46(51)55(56)60 back sts, leave next 62(67)72(70)76 sts on hold for the right sleeve, cast on 8(8)8(12)12 for the armhole, place marker, cast on 8(9)8(12)12 sts for the other side of the armhole (the marker is at the midpoint of the armhole). Knit 92(101)110(112)120 front sts, leave 62(67)72(70)76 sts on hold for the left sleeve, cast on 8(8)8(12)12 sts for the other armhole, place marker, cast on 8(9)8(12)12 sts. Work to next marker, remove marker, work to next marker. The beginning of round is now here. 216(236)252(272)288 sts now on the needles.
     
    Body
    With the 216(236)252(272)288 front and back sts work stockinette st in the round.
    When the body measures 6(7)7(8)8 cm from the armhole, decrease 1 st on both sides of the side markers: *k1, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), work stockinette st to last 3 sts before marker, k2tog, k1, slip marker*, repeat *-*. 4 sts decreased. Repeat the decreases every 2,5 cm 3 more times = 200(220)236(256)272 sts.
    When the body measures 16(17)17(18)18 cm from the armhole, increase 1 st on both sides of the markers: *k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work stockinette st to last st before marker, increase 1, k1, slip marker*, repeat *-*. 4 sts increased. Repeat the increases every 2,5 cm 3 more times = 216(236)252(272)288 sts.
    When the body measures 31(32)33(34)35 cm from the armhole, work ribbing in the round with all sts for 5 cm.
    Loosely bind off in pattern.
     
    Sleeves
    Place the 62(67)72(70)76 sleeve sts onto the needles. Using Moomintroll pick up and knit sts from the armhole edge. Begin at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on and pick up 8(8)8(12)12 sts, knit the 62(67)72(70)76 sleeve sts, pick up 8(9)8(12)12 sts from the other end = 78(84)88(94)100 sts. Place marker for beginning of round and work stockinette in the round. Use either the Magic Loop technique or double-pointed needles.
    When the sleeve measures 3(3)3(3)2 cm from the armhole, decrease 1 st on both sides of the marker: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 3(2,5)2,5(2)2 cm 12(14)15(18)20 more times = 52(54)56(56)58 sts.
    When the sleeve measures 41(42)43(43)44 cm from the armhole, work ribbing in the round for 5 cm.
    Loosely bind off in pattern.
    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
     
    Finishing
    Fold the neck ribbing and sew the edge to the inside.
    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly.

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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