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Novita Muumitalo: Mehukestit (Children's Party) knitted skirt

As low as €6.90

This bell skirt will make you twirl! The simple design is complemented by fun details like the buttoned suspenders and the picot edge at the hem. From Novita Muumitalo.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 49
Skill level Adventurous beginner
Novita Muumitalo: Mehukestit (Children's Party) knitted skirt
Novita Muumitalo-720 Hemulen
€7.50
Novita Muumitalo-720 Hemulen
€7.50
Novita Muumitalo-720 Hemulen
€7.50
Novita Muumitalo-720 Hemulen
€7.50
Novita Muumitalo-720 Hemulen
€7.50
Novita circular needles 60 cm birch-3.0 mm
€6.90
Novita circular needles 60 cm birch-3.5 mm
€6.90
Novita circular needles 80 cm birch-3.0 mm
€6.90
Novita circular needles 80 cm birch-3.5 mm
€6.90

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Novita Muumitalo: Mehukestit (Children's Party) knitted skirt
Novita Muumitalo: Mehukestit (Children's Party) knitted skirt

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022149
    Pattern details
    Size
    86(98)110(122)134 cm

    Yarn demand

    Novita Muumitalo

    (720) Hemulen 250(250)300(350)400 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (40/60 cm / 16/24 in; 80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3½ mm (US 4) or sizes needed for gauge

    Other supplies 7 stitch markers, 2 buttons, 2 cm elastic band (if needed)



    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Using the smaller circular needle, cast on 98(105)112(119)126 sts and place marker for beginning of round. Work stockinette st in the round (knit all sts) for 3 cm, then purl 1 round for folding. Work stockinette st for 3 cm. On the last round, place 6 markers as follows: *k14(15)16(17)18, place marker*, repeat *–* 5 more times and work to end of round.

    Switch to the larger needles. Work stockinette st in the round and begin increases: *increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work stockinette st to next marker, slip marker*, repeat *–* 6 more times. 7 sts increased, 105(112)119(126)133 sts on the needles.

    Repeat the increases as established on every other round 29(34)40(49)57 more times = 308(350)399(469)532 sts, 44(50)57(67)76 sts in each section.

    Note: Switch to the longer circular needle when you need to.

    Work 4 rounds in stockinette st and increase 0(0)1(1)0 st on the last round as established = 308(350)400(470)532 sts. On the next round, work a picot round: *k2tog, yarn over*, repeat *–* to end of round. Switch to the smaller circular needle and work 4 rounds in stockinette st. Bind off loosely. Bind off as follows: Knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Knit 1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, repeat *–* until you have bound off the number of sts needed. When 1 st remains, break the yarn and pull it through the last st.

    Fold the hem of the skirt at the picot round and sew to WS. Fold the top edge at the fold round and sew to WS. If needed, leave a small opening for the elastic band.

    Suspenders

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 11 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) knit 1, *purl 1, knit 1*, repeat *–* to end of row. On the next row, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Keep repeating these two rows. Work ribbing for approx. 46(48)50(52)54 cm.

    On the next RS row, make a buttonhole: work 5 sts, yarn over, k2tog, work to end. Work ribbing for another 3 cm, then bind off in pattern: Work 2 sts in pattern and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work 1 st in pattern and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Repeat *–* for number of sts needed. When 1 st remains, break the yarn and pull it through the last st.

    Knit the other suspender in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Steam lightly.

    Sew the suspenders to the back approx. 4(5)5(6)6 cm from each other (note that the suspenders are worn crossed at the back). Attach the buttons to the front approx. 11(12)12(13)13 cm from each other.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    waist, lightly stretched 56(60)64(68)72 cm / 22(23½)25¼(26¾)28¼ in

    hem circumference approx. 160(166)190(223)253 cm / 63(65¼)74¾(87¾)99½ in

    length 24(27)31(37)42 cm / 9½(10¾)12¼(14½)16½ in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Ribbing (flat): *knit 1, purl 1*, keep repeating *–*. On WS rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.

    Gauge 21 sts and 31 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in

    Note The skirt is knitted in the round from waist to hem.



    Using the smaller circular needle, cast on 98(105)112(119)126 sts and place marker for beginning of round. Work stockinette st in the round (knit all sts) for 3 cm, then purl 1 round for folding. Work stockinette st for 3 cm. On the last round, place 6 markers as follows: *k14(15)16(17)18, place marker*, repeat *–* 5 more times and work to end of round.

    Switch to the larger needles. Work stockinette st in the round and begin increases: *increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work stockinette st to next marker, slip marker*, repeat *–* 6 more times. 7 sts increased, 105(112)119(126)133 sts on the needles.

    Repeat the increases as established on every other round 29(34)40(49)57 more times = 308(350)399(469)532 sts, 44(50)57(67)76 sts in each section.

    Note: Switch to the longer circular needle when you need to.

    Work 4 rounds in stockinette st and increase 0(0)1(1)0 st on the last round as established = 308(350)400(470)532 sts. On the next round, work a picot round: *k2tog, yarn over*, repeat *–* to end of round. Switch to the smaller circular needle and work 4 rounds in stockinette st. Bind off loosely. Bind off as follows: Knit 2 and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. *Knit 1, pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one*, repeat *–* until you have bound off the number of sts needed. When 1 st remains, break the yarn and pull it through the last st.

    Fold the hem of the skirt at the picot round and sew to WS. Fold the top edge at the fold round and sew to WS. If needed, leave a small opening for the elastic band.

    Suspenders

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 11 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) knit 1, *purl 1, knit 1*, repeat *–* to end of row. On the next row, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Keep repeating these two rows. Work ribbing for approx. 46(48)50(52)54 cm.

    On the next RS row, make a buttonhole: work 5 sts, yarn over, k2tog, work to end. Work ribbing for another 3 cm, then bind off in pattern: Work 2 sts in pattern and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Work 1 st in pattern and pass the right-hand st over the left-hand one. Repeat *–* for number of sts needed. When 1 st remains, break the yarn and pull it through the last st.

    Knit the other suspender in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Steam lightly.

    Sew the suspenders to the back approx. 4(5)5(6)6 cm from each other (note that the suspenders are worn crossed at the back). Attach the buttons to the front approx. 11(12)12(13)13 cm from each other.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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