My Cart

Mini Cart

Novita Muumitalo: Hippasilla (Playing Tag) knitted cardigan

As low as €6.90

When the clouds hide the sun, put this cardigan over your summer dress. The cardigan is knitted with Novita Muumitalo, but you can use the same pattern for all of Novita’s DK-weight yarns like Nalle, Woolly Wood, Merino DK or Louhetar Sukkalanka.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 50
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Muumitalo: Hippasilla (Playing Tag) knitted cardigan
Novita Muumitalo-507 Snorkmaiden
€7.50
Novita Muumitalo-507 Snorkmaiden
€7.50
Novita Muumitalo-507 Snorkmaiden
€7.50
Novita Muumitalo-507 Snorkmaiden
€7.50
Novita Muumitalo-507 Snorkmaiden
€7.50
Novita circular needles 80 cm birch-3.0 mm
€6.90

* Required Fields

Your Customization
Novita Muumitalo: Hippasilla (Playing Tag) knitted cardigan
Novita Muumitalo: Hippasilla (Playing Tag) knitted cardigan

In stock

€6.90

- +
Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022150
    Pattern details
    Size
    98(110)122(134)146 cm

    Yarn demand

    Novita Muumitalo

    (507) Snorkmaiden 250(250)300(350)400 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3½ mm (US 4) or sizes needed

    Other supplies 5(5)5(6)6 buttons



    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Body

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 145(153)161(169)177 sts. At both ends, work 5 sts in garter st; with the other sts, work ribbing flat for 4 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles. Keep working garter st and stockinette st as established. At the same time place 2 markers so that there are 38(40)42(44)46 sts in both fronts and 69(73)77(81)85 sts in the back.

    Note: When the piece measures 5(5)5(6)6 cm, make a buttonhole: (RS) k1, k2tog, yarn over, work to end. Make 4(4)4(5)5 more buttonholes at 7,5(8)8,5(7)7,5 cm intervals so that the top buttonhole is at approx. 35(37)39(41)43 cm from the hem.

    Work as established until the piece measures 35(37)39(41)43 cm. On the next RS row separate the fronts and back: work to last 3(3)3(4)4 sts before first marker, bind off next 6(6)6(8)8 sts for anarmhole, work to last 3(3)3(4)4 sts before second marker,bind off next 6(6)6(8)8 sts for the other armhole, work to end. 35(37)39(40)42 sts in the fronts, 63(67)71(73)77 sts in the back.

    Continue with the left front sts and leave the other sts on hold.

    Left front

    Work garter st with the 5 buttonband sts and stockinette st with the other sts. When the armhole measures approx. 1 cm, begin slanting the neckline: (RS) work to last 6 sts, k2tog (last stockinette st and first garter st), work to end. Repeat the decrease 4(3)2(2)1 time(s) on every other row and then 5(6)7(8)9 times on every 4th row = 25(27)29(29)31 sts.

    Work as established until the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm. Now work 20(22)24(24)26 sts of the RS row and leave them on hold. Keep working garter st with the 5 sts until the border measures 7(7)7(8)8 cm from the shoulder when lightly stretched. Finish with a WS row. Leave the sts on hold.

    Right front

    Place the right front sts back onto the needles and begin with the WS row. Work garter st with the 5 buttonband sts and stockinette st with the other sts. When the armhole measures approx. 1 cm, begin slanting the neckline: (RS) work 4 sts in garter st, skp (last garter st and first stockinette st), work stockinette st to end of row. Repeat the decrease 4(3)2(2)1 time(s) on every other row and then 5(6)7(8)9 times on every 4th row = 25(27)29(29)31 sts.

    Work as established until the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm. Now work 20(22)24(24)26 sts of the WS row and leave them on hold. Keep working garter st with the 5 sts until the border measures 7(7)7(8)8 cm from the shoulder when lightly stretched. Finish with a WS row. Leave the sts on hold.

    Back

    Place the back sts back onto the needles and begin with the WS row. Work stockinette st until the armhole measures 11(12)13(14)15 cm. Bind off the middle 19(19)19(21)21 sts. Work one side of the neckline at a time. On every other row, bind off 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm, leave the remaining 20(22)24(24)26 sts on hold.

    With the other side, mirror the first side.

    Shoulder seams: Turn the work inside out. Place the right front shoulder sts back onto the needles and align the shoulders. Work the sts together as follows: purl the first st of each needle together. Work the second pair of sts in the same manner and then pass the first knitted st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Keep binding off as established. Alternatively, you can bind off all sts and sew the shoulder seam. Work the left shoulder in the same manner.

    Place the 5 border sts of each side onto the needles and graft them together. Sew the border to the back neckline.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 38(40)42(44)46 sts and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round. When the piece measures 6 cm, increase 2 sts in the underside of the sleeve: work 1 st, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1, work last st. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3,5)3(3)3 cm 7(8)9(10)11 more times = 54(58)62(66)70 sts.

    When the piece measures 32(35)37(40)42 cm, switch to working flat. When the piece measures 33(36)38(41,5)43,5 cm, loosely bind off.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Pockets

    Using the larger needles, cast on 22 sts and work stockinette st for 8 cm. Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing for 2 cm. Bind off in pattern. Knit the other pocket in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly.

    Attach the sleeves. Attach the pockets approx. 1 cm above the ribbing. Attach the buttons.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 64(68)72(76)80 cm / 25¼(26¾)28¼(30)31½ in

    length 48(51)54(57)60 cm / 19(20)21¼(22½)23½ in

    inner sleeve length 32(35)37(40)42 cm / 12½(13¾)14½(15¾)16½ in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing (flat): Row 1: k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Next rows: knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Garter stitch (flat): knit all rows.

    Gauge 21 sts and 28 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Body

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 145(153)161(169)177 sts. At both ends, work 5 sts in garter st; with the other sts, work ribbing flat for 4 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles. Keep working garter st and stockinette st as established. At the same time place 2 markers so that there are 38(40)42(44)46 sts in both fronts and 69(73)77(81)85 sts in the back.

    Note: When the piece measures 5(5)5(6)6 cm, make a buttonhole: (RS) k1, k2tog, yarn over, work to end. Make 4(4)4(5)5 more buttonholes at 7,5(8)8,5(7)7,5 cm intervals so that the top buttonhole is at approx. 35(37)39(41)43 cm from the hem.

    Work as established until the piece measures 35(37)39(41)43 cm. On the next RS row separate the fronts and back: work to last 3(3)3(4)4 sts before first marker, bind off next 6(6)6(8)8 sts for anarmhole, work to last 3(3)3(4)4 sts before second marker,bind off next 6(6)6(8)8 sts for the other armhole, work to end. 35(37)39(40)42 sts in the fronts, 63(67)71(73)77 sts in the back.

    Continue with the left front sts and leave the other sts on hold.

    Left front

    Work garter st with the 5 buttonband sts and stockinette st with the other sts. When the armhole measures approx. 1 cm, begin slanting the neckline: (RS) work to last 6 sts, k2tog (last stockinette st and first garter st), work to end. Repeat the decrease 4(3)2(2)1 time(s) on every other row and then 5(6)7(8)9 times on every 4th row = 25(27)29(29)31 sts.

    Work as established until the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm. Now work 20(22)24(24)26 sts of the RS row and leave them on hold. Keep working garter st with the 5 sts until the border measures 7(7)7(8)8 cm from the shoulder when lightly stretched. Finish with a WS row. Leave the sts on hold.

    Right front

    Place the right front sts back onto the needles and begin with the WS row. Work garter st with the 5 buttonband sts and stockinette st with the other sts. When the armhole measures approx. 1 cm, begin slanting the neckline: (RS) work 4 sts in garter st, skp (last garter st and first stockinette st), work stockinette st to end of row. Repeat the decrease 4(3)2(2)1 time(s) on every other row and then 5(6)7(8)9 times on every 4th row = 25(27)29(29)31 sts.

    Work as established until the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm. Now work 20(22)24(24)26 sts of the WS row and leave them on hold. Keep working garter st with the 5 sts until the border measures 7(7)7(8)8 cm from the shoulder when lightly stretched. Finish with a WS row. Leave the sts on hold.

    Back

    Place the back sts back onto the needles and begin with the WS row. Work stockinette st until the armhole measures 11(12)13(14)15 cm. Bind off the middle 19(19)19(21)21 sts. Work one side of the neckline at a time. On every other row, bind off 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm, leave the remaining 20(22)24(24)26 sts on hold.

    With the other side, mirror the first side.

    Shoulder seams: Turn the work inside out. Place the right front shoulder sts back onto the needles and align the shoulders. Work the sts together as follows: purl the first st of each needle together. Work the second pair of sts in the same manner and then pass the first knitted st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Keep binding off as established. Alternatively, you can bind off all sts and sew the shoulder seam. Work the left shoulder in the same manner.

    Place the 5 border sts of each side onto the needles and graft them together. Sew the border to the back neckline.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 38(40)42(44)46 sts and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round. When the piece measures 6 cm, increase 2 sts in the underside of the sleeve: work 1 st, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1, work last st. Repeat the increases every 3,5(3,5)3(3)3 cm 7(8)9(10)11 more times = 54(58)62(66)70 sts.

    When the piece measures 32(35)37(40)42 cm, switch to working flat. When the piece measures 33(36)38(41,5)43,5 cm, loosely bind off.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Pockets

    Using the larger needles, cast on 22 sts and work stockinette st for 8 cm. Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing for 2 cm. Bind off in pattern. Knit the other pocket in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry, or steam lightly.

    Attach the sleeves. Attach the pockets approx. 1 cm above the ribbing. Attach the buttons.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

    Reviews

    Write Your Own Review

    Only registered users can write reviews. Please Sign in or create an account