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Novita Muumihahmot
(809) Snorkmaiden <200 g
Double-pointed needles Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or size needed
Cast on 70 sts and divide them onto four needles: 20, 20, 20 and 10 sts. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Purl 1 round. Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart I. Repeat the 10 st pattern 7 times. Work rows 2-12 of the chart.
Begin the textured pattern on row 13 of the chart. Work rows 14-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 13-16.
Note: When the leg measures approx. 10 cm, decrease 2 sts in one pattern repeat on both sides of the beginning of round (see chart II). 4 sts decreased, 66 sts on the needles. Repeat the decreases after 2 cm in the next pattern repeats = 62 sts.
When the leg measures approx. 16 cm, redistribute the sts: 15, 15, 18 and 14 sts.
Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 29 sts. Turn work. Purl all sts and at the same time increase 1 = 30 sts.
Reinforced stitch pattern:
Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end.
Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.
Work rows 1-2 a total of 14 times (= 28 rows).
Begin turning the heel. Continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work the RS row until 11 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 10 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 5 sts each. Knit the 5 right-hand sts. The beginning of round is now here.
Using a free needle pick up 14 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Knit the 5 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III, work textured pattern as established. Using the needle with 5 sts pick up 14 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the 5 flap sts.
73 sts on the needles. On needles I and IV, work stockinette st; on needles II and III, follow the textured pattern. Begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round until 14 sts remain on needles I and IV.
Work as established until the sole measures 19 cm or until the sock covers the fifth toe. Now move the first st on needle II onto needle I and the last st on needle III onto needle IV.
Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, p2tog. Decrease as established on every other round until 7 sts remain on needles I and IV. Repeat the decreases on every round until 9 sts remain. Break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Steam the socks lightly.
Stitch patterns Lace pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Textured pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.
Gauge 24 sts in stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in
Note Begin both socks at the same point in the colour repeat.
Cast on 70 sts and divide them onto four needles: 20, 20, 20 and 10 sts. The beginning of round is between needles I and IV. Purl 1 round. Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of chart I. Repeat the 10 st pattern 7 times. Work rows 2-12 of the chart.
Begin the textured pattern on row 13 of the chart. Work rows 14-16 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 13-16.
Note: When the leg measures approx. 10 cm, decrease 2 sts in one pattern repeat on both sides of the beginning of round (see chart II). 4 sts decreased, 66 sts on the needles. Repeat the decreases after 2 cm in the next pattern repeats = 62 sts.
When the leg measures approx. 16 cm, redistribute the sts: 15, 15, 18 and 14 sts.
Begin the heel flap: knit the sts on needle I onto needle IV = 29 sts. Turn work. Purl all sts and at the same time increase 1 = 30 sts.
Reinforced stitch pattern:
Row 1: (RS) *slip 1 with yarn in back, k1*, repeat *-* to end.
Row 2: (WS) slip 1 with yarn in back, purl to end. Turn work.
Work rows 1-2 a total of 14 times (= 28 rows).
Begin turning the heel. Continue the reinforced pattern as established. Work the RS row until 11 sts remain. Skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), turn work. Slip 1, p8, p2tog, turn work. Slip 1, work to last 10 sts, skp. Continue in this manner, decreasing at the ends with 10 sts in the middle. When only the middle sts remain, divide the sts onto two needles, 5 sts each. Knit the 5 right-hand sts. The beginning of round is now here.
Using a free needle pick up 14 sts from the left end of the heel flap + 1 st from between the flap and needle II. Knit the 5 heel flap sts and knit the picked-up sts through the back loop. On needles II and III, work textured pattern as established. Using the needle with 5 sts pick up 14 sts from the right end + 1 st from between needle III and the heel flap. Knit the picked-up sts through the back loop and knit the 5 flap sts.
73 sts on the needles. On needles I and IV, work stockinette st; on needles II and III, follow the textured pattern. Begin gusset decreases: at the end of needle I, k2tog; at the beginning of needle IV, skp. Repeat the decreases every other round until 14 sts remain on needles I and IV.
Work as established until the sole measures 19 cm or until the sock covers the fifth toe. Now move the first st on needle II onto needle I and the last st on needle III onto needle IV.
Begin toe decreases: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1; at the beginning of needles II and IV, p2tog. Decrease as established on every other round until 7 sts remain on needles I and IV. Repeat the decreases on every round until 9 sts remain. Break yarn, pull it through the sts and securely weave in.
Knit the other sock in the same manner.
Finishing
Steam the socks lightly.
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.