Novita Muumihahmot, Muumitalo and Nalle: Maalari-knee socks

As low as €5.95

Every painter needs wool socks, both long and short. Knee-high socks can be worn when the summer morning is still cool. The heel is knitted in a reinforced pattern and the toe is a band toe. Socks with an interesting play of colors are created from the yarns of Novita Nalle, Muumihahmot & Muumitalo.
Novita Kesä 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
5
Intermediate
Customize Novita Muumihahmot, Muumitalo and Nalle: Maalari-knee socks

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    €5.95

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    Availability: In stock

    N02225
    Size
    Kaksi kokoa

    Yarn demand

    Novita Muumihahmot

    (827) Mumin 100 g

    Novita Muumitalo (507) Snorkmaiden 50 g

    (381) Snufkin 50 g

    Novita Nalle (100) Valley 50 g

    Waste yarn-Tip! These pretty socks can also be made from leftover yarn.



    Needles and other supplies

    Needles: Novita dpns size 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) or size needed to fit gauge.



    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    CO 72(76) sts, using dpns size 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) and color Valley and distribute the sts evenly over the dpns, 18(19) sts per needle. Beg of rnd is between needles I and IV. Work 5(6) cm/2(2.4)” ribbing in the round. Knit 1 rnd and cut yarn.

    Work st st in the round, alternately knit 2 rnds using the Moomin yarn and 2 rnds using color Snorkmaiden of the Muumitalo yarn. Alternate the single-colored yarns Snufkin and Snorkmaiden every 6 cm/2.4”. The other pattern color will always be the Mumin Striped yarn.

    When the length of the leg measures 15 cm/5.9”, start working dec’s mid back, between needles I and IV, as follows: at the beg of the rnd k1, k2tog , then knit to the last 3 sts of the rnd, skp and k1. Rep these dec‘s in every 6th rnd 4 more times and then every 4th rnd 3 times = 56(60) sts. Redistribute the sts evenly over the dpns, 14(15) sts per needle.

    Continue working as set, until the leg measures approx. 36(38) cm/14.2”(15)” and ending with a completely finished stripe, cut yarn.

    Work the heel flap, as follows: move all sts of needle I onto needle IV = 28(30) sts. Continue working using color Valley. Place the rem sts on hold. Turn work and work back and forth in reinforced heel stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (WS) sl 1 wyif, purl rem sts. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *sl 1 wyib, k1, rep from * to end of row. Turn work.

    Rep rows 1-2 a total of 14(15) times = 28(30) rows.

     

    Work 1 more WS row, then start working the heel turn and at the same time, continue working the reinforced heel pattern. Work the next RS row to the last 10(11) sts, skp, turn work,sl 1 st, p8, p2tog, turn work. sl 1 st, work in pattern to the last 9(10) sts, skp. Continue working as set, decreasing at both sides, until only the 10 center sts rem. Distribute these 10 sts over 2 ndls, 5 sts per ndl. Knit the 5 sts on the RH ndl. The beg of rnd is now in the middle of the heel, at the sole of the sock. Continue working in stripe pattern, i.e. take the color that would be next, so that the stripe sequence continues.

     

    Using an extra dpn, pick up 14(15) sts + 1 st between the heel flap and the next needle, along the left side of the heel flap. Knit the picked up sts tbl. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 14(15) sts + 1 st between needle III and the heel flap, along the right side of the heel flap and knit these st tbl onto needle IV.

    Continue working stripes in st st across these 68(72) sts, as described for the leg (alternating the single-colored yarns every 6 cm/2.4”) and at the same time, work gusset dec’s, as follows: at the end of needle I, knit tog the last 2 sts and at the beg of needle IV, skp. Rep these dec’s every 2nd rnd, until a total of 56(60) sts rem. Redistribute the sts evenly over the dpns, 14(15) sts per needle.

     

    Note: When the foot measures approx. 20(22) cm/7.9(8.7)”, continue working in st st, using only color Valley.

    Knit 1 rnd and start decreasing for the shaping of the band toe, as follows: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1 and at the beg of needles II and IV k1 and skp. Rep these dec’s every 2nd rnd 5 more times. Then work the dec’s in every rnd, until a total of 8 sts rem. Cut yarn, thread yarn tail through rem sts and secure tightly at the inside.

     

    Work the second sock in the same way.

     

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.

     

    Abbreviations

    acc = according

    beg = begin(ning)

    circ. = circular

    CO = cast on

    dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)

    dec(‘s) = decrease(s)

    k = knit

    k2tog = knit 2 sts together

    LH = left hand

    ndl(s) = needle(s)

    p = purl

    p2tog = purl 2 sts together

    rem = remaining

    rep = repeat

    RH = right hand

    rnd(s) = round(s)

    sl = slip

    sl 1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise

    skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over

    RS = right side

    st(s) = stitch(es)

    st st = stockinette st

    tbl = through back loop

    wyib = with yarn in back

    wyif = with yarn in front

    WS = wrong side

     

     

    Finished dimensions
    Kengän koko 38(42)

    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns: Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1, rep from *. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all sts.

    Gauge/Tension: 24 sts in st st = 10 cm/4” square.



    CO 72(76) sts, using dpns size 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) and color Valley and distribute the sts evenly over the dpns, 18(19) sts per needle. Beg of rnd is between needles I and IV. Work 5(6) cm/2(2.4)” ribbing in the round. Knit 1 rnd and cut yarn.

    Work st st in the round, alternately knit 2 rnds using the Moomin yarn and 2 rnds using color Snorkmaiden of the Muumitalo yarn. Alternate the single-colored yarns Snufkin and Snorkmaiden every 6 cm/2.4”. The other pattern color will always be the Mumin Striped yarn.

    When the length of the leg measures 15 cm/5.9”, start working dec’s mid back, between needles I and IV, as follows: at the beg of the rnd k1, k2tog , then knit to the last 3 sts of the rnd, skp and k1. Rep these dec‘s in every 6th rnd 4 more times and then every 4th rnd 3 times = 56(60) sts. Redistribute the sts evenly over the dpns, 14(15) sts per needle.

    Continue working as set, until the leg measures approx. 36(38) cm/14.2”(15)” and ending with a completely finished stripe, cut yarn.

    Work the heel flap, as follows: move all sts of needle I onto needle IV = 28(30) sts. Continue working using color Valley. Place the rem sts on hold. Turn work and work back and forth in reinforced heel stitch pattern:

    Row 1: (WS) sl 1 wyif, purl rem sts. Turn work.

    Row 2: (RS) *sl 1 wyib, k1, rep from * to end of row. Turn work.

    Rep rows 1-2 a total of 14(15) times = 28(30) rows.

     

    Work 1 more WS row, then start working the heel turn and at the same time, continue working the reinforced heel pattern. Work the next RS row to the last 10(11) sts, skp, turn work,sl 1 st, p8, p2tog, turn work. sl 1 st, work in pattern to the last 9(10) sts, skp. Continue working as set, decreasing at both sides, until only the 10 center sts rem. Distribute these 10 sts over 2 ndls, 5 sts per ndl. Knit the 5 sts on the RH ndl. The beg of rnd is now in the middle of the heel, at the sole of the sock. Continue working in stripe pattern, i.e. take the color that would be next, so that the stripe sequence continues.

     

    Using an extra dpn, pick up 14(15) sts + 1 st between the heel flap and the next needle, along the left side of the heel flap. Knit the picked up sts tbl. Knit the sts on needles II and III. Pick up 14(15) sts + 1 st between needle III and the heel flap, along the right side of the heel flap and knit these st tbl onto needle IV.

    Continue working stripes in st st across these 68(72) sts, as described for the leg (alternating the single-colored yarns every 6 cm/2.4”) and at the same time, work gusset dec’s, as follows: at the end of needle I, knit tog the last 2 sts and at the beg of needle IV, skp. Rep these dec’s every 2nd rnd, until a total of 56(60) sts rem. Redistribute the sts evenly over the dpns, 14(15) sts per needle.

     

    Note: When the foot measures approx. 20(22) cm/7.9(8.7)”, continue working in st st, using only color Valley.

    Knit 1 rnd and start decreasing for the shaping of the band toe, as follows: at the end of needles I and III, k2tog, k1 and at the beg of needles II and IV k1 and skp. Rep these dec’s every 2nd rnd 5 more times. Then work the dec’s in every rnd, until a total of 8 sts rem. Cut yarn, thread yarn tail through rem sts and secure tightly at the inside.

     

    Work the second sock in the same way.

     

    Finishing

    Lightly steam the socks.

     

    Abbreviations

    acc = according

    beg = begin(ning)

    circ. = circular

    CO = cast on

    dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)

    dec(‘s) = decrease(s)

    k = knit

    k2tog = knit 2 sts together

    LH = left hand

    ndl(s) = needle(s)

    p = purl

    p2tog = purl 2 sts together

    rem = remaining

    rep = repeat

    RH = right hand

    rnd(s) = round(s)

    sl = slip

    sl 1 = slip 1 stitch purlwise

    skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over

    RS = right side

    st(s) = stitch(es)

    st st = stockinette st

    tbl = through back loop

    wyib = with yarn in back

    wyif = with yarn in front

    WS = wrong side

     

     


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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