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Novita Merino DK: Sulo cabled cardigan

As low as €3.33

Knitted from Novita Merino DK, the relaxed Sulo cable cardigan will keep men warm, along with providing a hint of the bohemian. The cardigan is knitted in one piece up to the armholes and finished with a shawl collar.
Magazine Novita Syksy 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 11
Skill level Expert
Novita Merino DK: Sulo cabled cardigan
Novita circular needles 80 cm birch-4.0 mm
€6.96
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -4.0 mm
€6.96
Novita double-pointed needles 20 cm-4.5 mm
€3.33

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Novita Merino DK: Sulo cabled cardigan
Novita Merino DK: Sulo cabled cardigan

In stock

€3.33

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N032111
    Pattern details
    Size
    S(M)L(XL)XXL

    Yarn demand

    Novita Merino DK

    (006) Semolina Porridge 850(900)950(1000)1100 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3.5–4 mm (UK 8–9 / US 4–6) and 4–4.5 mm (UK 7–8 / US 6–7) or sizes needed; 4 mm (UK 8 / US 6) and 4.5 mm (UK 7 / US 7) double-pointed needles for the sleeves, if you don’t use the Magic Loop technique

    Other supplies 6 buttons (Nappitalo)



    Designer
    Ronja Hakalehto

    Details

    Body

    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes.

    Using the smaller circular needle, cast on 273(289)305(321)337 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–*, p2. Work ribbing.

    When the ribbing measures 2(3)4(2.5)3.5 cm, make the first buttonhole on the left front edge: (RS) work to last 8 sts, k2tog, yarn over, work to end. Make 4 more buttonholes at 8(8)8(8.5)8.5 cm intervals.

    Note: After 6 cm in ribbing, finish on a RS row and switch to the larger circular needle. Work following row 1 of chart I: (WS) work 10 sts in ribbing, work sections A (14 sts), B (20 sts) and D (18 sts), work 9(13)17(21)25 sts in double seed st and at the same time decrease 1 st, place side marker, work 9(13)17(21)25 sts in double seed st, work section A (14 sts), section B 4 times (80 sts), section D (18 sts), work 9(13)17(21)25 sts in double seed st, place side marker, work 9(13)17(21)25 sts in double seed st, work sections A (14 sts), B (20 sts) and D (18 sts), work 10 sts in ribbing. 272(288)304(320)336 sts on the needles: 71(75)79(83)87 sts in the fronts, 130(138)146(154)162 sts in the back.

     

    Work rows 2–24, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 42(43)44(45)46 cm, increase 1 purl st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop) at both ends, 10 sts from the edge (right after the ribbing). 72(76)80(84)88 sts in the fronts, 130(138)146(154)162 sts in the back.

    On the next RS row, begin neckline decreases and increases in the ribbing and make the last buttonhole:

    Row 1: (RS) work 10 sts in ribbing, 1st increase at right end (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1, 2nd increase at right end (pfb: purl front and back), decrease at right end (skp: slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 14 sts, decrease at left end (k2tog), 1st increase at left end (pfb), k1, 2nd increase at left end (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work 10 sts in ribbing.

    Row 2: (WS) purl the purl sts and knit the knit sts.

    Row 3: (RS) work 12 sts in ribbing, 1st increase at right end (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1, 2nd increase at right end (pfb), decrease at right end (skp), work to last 16 sts, decrease at left end (k2tog), 1st increase at left end (pfb), k1, 2nd increase at left end (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work 12 sts in ribbing.

    Row 4: (WS) purl the purl sts and knit the knit sts.

    Repeat the increases (1st and 2nd) at both ends on every 4th row 16 more times (2 sts increased in the ribbing on each row). Repeat the decreases at both ends on every 4th row 18(18)19(19)19 more times. At the decreases, knit on RS rows and purl on WS rows.

    Note: When the piece measures 48(49)50(51)52 cm and you have last worked a RS row, on the next row (WS), divide the sts into three groups: *work to last 3(4)4(4)4 sts before marker, bind off next 6(8)8(8)8 sts for armhole*, repeat *–*, work to end of row. Leave the other sts on hold and continue with the right front sts.

     

    Top right front

    Work as established. On every other row, bind off 3(3)4(4)4x2 sts at the armhole.

    When the armhole measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, bind off the 33(36)37(41)45 shoulder sts. Leave the 46 collar sts on hold.

     

    Top left front

    Mirror right front.

     

    Top back

    With the 124(130)138(146)154 back sts, work as established. On every other row, bind off 3(3)4(4)4x2 sts at both ends for armholes = 112(118)122(130)138 sts.

    When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24 cm, on the next RS row bind off the middle 38(38)40(40)40 sts for the neckline and work to end. Leave the sts on the right on hold and work the left side first. On every other row, bind off 2x2 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, bind off the 33(36)37(41)45 shoulder sts. Knit the other side in the same manner.

     

    Sleeves

    Use either the double-pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique and the circular needle.

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 54(54)56(58)58 sts and place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 8(8)10(10)12 sts = 62(62)66(68)70 sts.

    Switch to the larger needles and work following row 1 of chart II: work 18(18)20(21)22 sts in double seed st, work the 26 st cable pattern, work 18(18)20(21)22 sts in double seed st. In the cable, work rows 2–24, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 9(12)13(10)13 cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round, 1 st from the marker. Repeat the increases every 3(2.5)2.5(2.5)2.5 cm 13(15)15(16)17 more times = 90(94)98(102)106 sts. Work the increased sts in double seed st.

    When the piece measures approx. 51(52)53(53)54 cm and you have last worked an even-numbered row of the chart, work next round to last 3(4)4(4)4 sts, bind off the last 3(4)4(4)4 sts and the first 3(4)4(4)4 sts of the next round. Switch to working flat. On every other row bind off 3(3)4(4)4x2 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. Sew the shoulder seams.

    Collar: Place the left front sts on the needles and cast on 1 selvedge st at the shoulder end = 47 sts. Work ribbing. After 2 cm, begin short rows: *On the next WS row, work the first 28 sts on the front edge. Turn work. Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, bring yarn to back over the work and tighten to create double stitch, work to end. On the next WS row, work the first 32 sts on the front edge and work the loops of the double st together to form one st. Turn work. Double stitch, work to end. With all sts work 6 rows; on the first row work the loops of the double st together.* Repeat *–* until the collar reaches the midpoint of the back neckline when lightly stretched. Leave the sts on hold.

    On the right front, mirror the collar of the left front .

    Sew or stitch the middle back seam. Attach the collar to the back neckline.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew on the buttons.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 106(114)122(130)138 cm / 41¾(45)48(51¼)54¼ in

    length 70(72)74(76)78 cm / 27½(28¼)29¼(30)30¾ in

    inner sleeve length 51(52)53(53)54 cm / 20(20½)20¾(20¾)21¼ in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On WS rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Cable pattern: follow the chart and instructions. Double seed stitch: Row 1: *k1, p1*, repeat *–* to end of row. Rows 2 and 4: knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Row 3: *p1, k1*, repeat *–*. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*.

    Gauge 20 sts and 32 rows in double seed st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in;
    26 sts in cable pattern with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Body

    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes.

    Using the smaller circular needle, cast on 273(289)305(321)337 sts and begin ribbing: (WS) p2, k1, *p1, k1*, repeat *–*, p2. Work ribbing.

    When the ribbing measures 2(3)4(2.5)3.5 cm, make the first buttonhole on the left front edge: (RS) work to last 8 sts, k2tog, yarn over, work to end. Make 4 more buttonholes at 8(8)8(8.5)8.5 cm intervals.

    Note: After 6 cm in ribbing, finish on a RS row and switch to the larger circular needle. Work following row 1 of chart I: (WS) work 10 sts in ribbing, work sections A (14 sts), B (20 sts) and D (18 sts), work 9(13)17(21)25 sts in double seed st and at the same time decrease 1 st, place side marker, work 9(13)17(21)25 sts in double seed st, work section A (14 sts), section B 4 times (80 sts), section D (18 sts), work 9(13)17(21)25 sts in double seed st, place side marker, work 9(13)17(21)25 sts in double seed st, work sections A (14 sts), B (20 sts) and D (18 sts), work 10 sts in ribbing. 272(288)304(320)336 sts on the needles: 71(75)79(83)87 sts in the fronts, 130(138)146(154)162 sts in the back.

     

    Work rows 2–24, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 42(43)44(45)46 cm, increase 1 purl st (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop) at both ends, 10 sts from the edge (right after the ribbing). 72(76)80(84)88 sts in the fronts, 130(138)146(154)162 sts in the back.

    On the next RS row, begin neckline decreases and increases in the ribbing and make the last buttonhole:

    Row 1: (RS) work 10 sts in ribbing, 1st increase at right end (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1, 2nd increase at right end (pfb: purl front and back), decrease at right end (skp: slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 14 sts, decrease at left end (k2tog), 1st increase at left end (pfb), k1, 2nd increase at left end (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work 10 sts in ribbing.

    Row 2: (WS) purl the purl sts and knit the knit sts.

    Row 3: (RS) work 12 sts in ribbing, 1st increase at right end (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), k1, 2nd increase at right end (pfb), decrease at right end (skp), work to last 16 sts, decrease at left end (k2tog), 1st increase at left end (pfb), k1, 2nd increase at left end (purl the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work 12 sts in ribbing.

    Row 4: (WS) purl the purl sts and knit the knit sts.

    Repeat the increases (1st and 2nd) at both ends on every 4th row 16 more times (2 sts increased in the ribbing on each row). Repeat the decreases at both ends on every 4th row 18(18)19(19)19 more times. At the decreases, knit on RS rows and purl on WS rows.

    Note: When the piece measures 48(49)50(51)52 cm and you have last worked a RS row, on the next row (WS), divide the sts into three groups: *work to last 3(4)4(4)4 sts before marker, bind off next 6(8)8(8)8 sts for armhole*, repeat *–*, work to end of row. Leave the other sts on hold and continue with the right front sts.

     

    Top right front

    Work as established. On every other row, bind off 3(3)4(4)4x2 sts at the armhole.

    When the armhole measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, bind off the 33(36)37(41)45 shoulder sts. Leave the 46 collar sts on hold.

     

    Top left front

    Mirror right front.

     

    Top back

    With the 124(130)138(146)154 back sts, work as established. On every other row, bind off 3(3)4(4)4x2 sts at both ends for armholes = 112(118)122(130)138 sts.

    When the armhole measures 20(21)22(23)24 cm, on the next RS row bind off the middle 38(38)40(40)40 sts for the neckline and work to end. Leave the sts on the right on hold and work the left side first. On every other row, bind off 2x2 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 22(23)24(25)26 cm, bind off the 33(36)37(41)45 shoulder sts. Knit the other side in the same manner.

     

    Sleeves

    Use either the double-pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique and the circular needle.

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 54(54)56(58)58 sts and place marker for beginning of round. Work ribbing in the round for 6 cm. Knit 1 round, evenly increasing 8(8)10(10)12 sts = 62(62)66(68)70 sts.

    Switch to the larger needles and work following row 1 of chart II: work 18(18)20(21)22 sts in double seed st, work the 26 st cable pattern, work 18(18)20(21)22 sts in double seed st. In the cable, work rows 2–24, then keep repeating rows 1–24.

    When the piece measures 9(12)13(10)13 cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round, 1 st from the marker. Repeat the increases every 3(2.5)2.5(2.5)2.5 cm 13(15)15(16)17 more times = 90(94)98(102)106 sts. Work the increased sts in double seed st.

    When the piece measures approx. 51(52)53(53)54 cm and you have last worked an even-numbered row of the chart, work next round to last 3(4)4(4)4 sts, bind off the last 3(4)4(4)4 sts and the first 3(4)4(4)4 sts of the next round. Switch to working flat. On every other row bind off 3(3)4(4)4x2 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry. Sew the shoulder seams.

    Collar: Place the left front sts on the needles and cast on 1 selvedge st at the shoulder end = 47 sts. Work ribbing. After 2 cm, begin short rows: *On the next WS row, work the first 28 sts on the front edge. Turn work. Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, bring yarn to back over the work and tighten to create double stitch, work to end. On the next WS row, work the first 32 sts on the front edge and work the loops of the double st together to form one st. Turn work. Double stitch, work to end. With all sts work 6 rows; on the first row work the loops of the double st together.* Repeat *–* until the collar reaches the midpoint of the back neckline when lightly stretched. Leave the sts on hold.

    On the right front, mirror the collar of the left front .

    Sew or stitch the middle back seam. Attach the collar to the back neckline.

    Attach the sleeves. Sew on the buttons.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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