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Novita Merino DK: Kesäloma (Summer Holiday) knitted shorts

As low as €6.90

Relaxed shorts for the summer holidays! The leg cuff can be knitted with either a picot edge or a smooth edge. From Novita Merino DK.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 48
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Merino DK: Kesäloma (Summer Holiday) knitted shorts
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.0 mm
€6.90
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.5 mm
€6.90
Novita circular needles 60 cm birch-3.0 mm
€6.90
Novita circular needles 60 cm birch-3.5 mm
€6.90

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Novita Merino DK: Kesäloma (Summer Holiday) knitted shorts
Novita Merino DK: Kesäloma (Summer Holiday) knitted shorts

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022148
    Pattern details
    Size
    98(110/116)122/128(134) cm

    Yarn demand

    Novita Merino DK

    (600) Barley or (112) Buttercup 150(150)200(200) g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (60 cm / 24 in) and double-pointed needles Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3½ mm (US 4) or sizes needed



    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Using the smaller circular needle, cast on 132(140)150(160) sts and place marker for beginning of round (back midpoint). Work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm, then purl 1 round for the fold. Work stockinette st for 1,5 cm. On the last round, place marker for front midpoint at 66(70)75(80) sts from the beginning of round marker.

    On the next round, make holes for the drawstrings: work stockinette st to last 6 sts before front midpoint marker, yarn over, k2tog, work stockinette st to marker, slip marker, k4, yarn over, k2tog, work to end.

    After you have worked stockinette st for 3 cm after the fold round, switch to the larger needles and work short rows in the back:

    Row 1: k4(5)6(7), turn work and yarn over.

    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to beginning of round marker, slip marker, p4(5)6(7). Turn work and yarn over.

    Row 3: (RS) double stitch, knit to marker, slip marker, knit to double stitch, knit the loops of the double stitch together, k8(9)10(11), turn work and yarn over.

    Row 4: (WS) double stitch, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit to double stitch, purl the loops of the double stitch together, p8(9)10(11), turn work and yarn over.

    Repeat rows 3–4 three more times.

    On the next row work stockinette st. Knit the double sts as if to k2tog.

    With all sts, work stockinette st in the round until the front measures 17(18)19(20) cm from the fold round.

    On the next round, increase 2 sts in the front and back: *k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st before marker, increase 1, k1*, repeat *–* once more = 136(144)154(164) sts. Repeat the increases on every 4th round 3(4)4(5) more times = 148(160)170(184) sts.

    Left leg

    Work to front marker and leave the next 74(80)85(92) sts (right leg) on hold. Place marker for beginning of round (inner end of the leg). Place the 74(80)85(92) left leg sts onto the larger double-pointed needles and work stockinette st in the round.

    After 1 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Repeat the decreases on every 2nd(2nd)4th(4th) round 4(4)4(4) more times = 64(70)75(82) sts.

    When the leg measures 5(5)7(7) cm, switch to the smaller double-pointed needles and knit either a picot edge or a smooth edge.

    Picot edge: *K2tog, yarn over*, repeat *–*, k0(0)1(0). Work stockinette st for 4 rounds, then bind off loosely. Fold the leg cuff at the picot round and sew to WS.

    Smooth edge: Purl 1 round for the fold, then work 4 rounds in stockinette st. Bind off loosely. Fold the leg cuff at the fold round and sew to WS.

    Knit the right leg in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Fold the waist at the fold round and sew to WS.

    I-cord drawstrings: Cast on 3 sts and knit them. *Do not turn work, slide the sts back to the right end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k3.* Repeat *–* until the string measures approx. 110(115)120(125) cm. Break yarn and pass it through the sts. Tighten and weave in end. Thread the drawstring through the channel.

    Lightly steam the shorts.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    waist 60(64)68(72) cm / 23½(25¼)26¾(28¼) in

    inner leg length 7(7)9(9) cm / 2¾(2¾)3½(3½) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.

    Gauge 22 sts and 30 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in

    Note The shorts are knitted from the waist down.



    Using the smaller circular needle, cast on 132(140)150(160) sts and place marker for beginning of round (back midpoint). Work stockinette st in the round for 3 cm, then purl 1 round for the fold. Work stockinette st for 1,5 cm. On the last round, place marker for front midpoint at 66(70)75(80) sts from the beginning of round marker.

    On the next round, make holes for the drawstrings: work stockinette st to last 6 sts before front midpoint marker, yarn over, k2tog, work stockinette st to marker, slip marker, k4, yarn over, k2tog, work to end.

    After you have worked stockinette st for 3 cm after the fold round, switch to the larger needles and work short rows in the back:

    Row 1: k4(5)6(7), turn work and yarn over.

    Row 2: (WS) slip 1 and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to beginning of round marker, slip marker, p4(5)6(7). Turn work and yarn over.

    Row 3: (RS) double stitch, knit to marker, slip marker, knit to double stitch, knit the loops of the double stitch together, k8(9)10(11), turn work and yarn over.

    Row 4: (WS) double stitch, purl to marker, slip marker, purl to marker, slip marker, knit to double stitch, purl the loops of the double stitch together, p8(9)10(11), turn work and yarn over.

    Repeat rows 3–4 three more times.

    On the next row work stockinette st. Knit the double sts as if to k2tog.

    With all sts, work stockinette st in the round until the front measures 17(18)19(20) cm from the fold round.

    On the next round, increase 2 sts in the front and back: *k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st before marker, increase 1, k1*, repeat *–* once more = 136(144)154(164) sts. Repeat the increases on every 4th round 3(4)4(5) more times = 148(160)170(184) sts.

    Left leg

    Work to front marker and leave the next 74(80)85(92) sts (right leg) on hold. Place marker for beginning of round (inner end of the leg). Place the 74(80)85(92) left leg sts onto the larger double-pointed needles and work stockinette st in the round.

    After 1 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Repeat the decreases on every 2nd(2nd)4th(4th) round 4(4)4(4) more times = 64(70)75(82) sts.

    When the leg measures 5(5)7(7) cm, switch to the smaller double-pointed needles and knit either a picot edge or a smooth edge.

    Picot edge: *K2tog, yarn over*, repeat *–*, k0(0)1(0). Work stockinette st for 4 rounds, then bind off loosely. Fold the leg cuff at the picot round and sew to WS.

    Smooth edge: Purl 1 round for the fold, then work 4 rounds in stockinette st. Bind off loosely. Fold the leg cuff at the fold round and sew to WS.

    Knit the right leg in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Fold the waist at the fold round and sew to WS.

    I-cord drawstrings: Cast on 3 sts and knit them. *Do not turn work, slide the sts back to the right end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k3.* Repeat *–* until the string measures approx. 110(115)120(125) cm. Break yarn and pass it through the sts. Tighten and weave in end. Thread the drawstring through the channel.

    Lightly steam the shorts.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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