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Novita Merino DK: Kesäheinä knitted dress

As low as €6.90

This creamy white dress, knitted using Novita Merino DK, features an arrowhead lace pattern in the hem.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 41
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Merino DK: Kesäheinä knitted dress
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.0 mm
€6.90
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.5 mm
€6.90
Novita circular needles 60 cm birch-3.5 mm
€6.90

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Novita Merino DK: Kesäheinä knitted dress
Novita Merino DK: Kesäheinä knitted dress

In stock

€6.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022141
    Pattern details
    Size
    98(110)122(134)146 cm

    Yarn demand

    Novita Merino DK

    (006) Semolina Porridge 300(350)400(400)450 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needle (60 cm / 24 in) Novita 3½ mm (US 4) or size needed; double-pointed needles Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3½ mm or sizes needed

    Other supplies 3 small buttons



    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Body

    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the circular needles, cast on 224(232)240(256)264 sts, join for working in the round and knit 1 round.

    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 8 st pattern 28(29)30(32)33 times. Work rows 2–6 of the chart, then repeat rows 1–6 3(3)3(4)4 more times.

    Now work stockinette st in the round. On the first round, evenly decrease 0(1)2(4)5 sts = 224(231)238(252)259 sts.

    When the piece measures 16(17)17(18)18 cm, place 7 markers , the first one at the beginning of round and the other 6 at 32(33)34(36)37 st intervals.

    On the next round, begin decreases: slip marker, k2tog, *work to marker, slip marker, k2tog*, repeat *–* 5 more times, work to end. 7 sts decreased, 217(224)231(245)252 sts on the needles.

    Repeat the decreases every 1,5 cm 11 more times = 140(147)154(168)175 sts. On the next round, evenly decrease 4(1)0(6)3 sts = 136(146)154(162)172 sts. Remove all markers except the beginning of round marker and place a second marker at the midpoint of round. 68(73)77(81)86 sts in the front and back.

    Work stockinette st in the round until the piece measures 40(43)46(50)55 cm.

    On the next round, work to last 3(3)3(4)5 sts before second marker,bind off next 6(7)7(9)10 sts for anarmhole, work to last 3(3)3(4)5 sts, bind off last 3(3)3(4)5 sts and the first 3(4)4(5)5 sts of the next round for the other armhole. 62(66)70(72)76 sts in the front and back. Leave the front sts on hold.

    Top back

    With the 62(66)70(72)76 back sts, work stockinette st flat. On every other row, bind off 1x2 sts and 1(1)1(2)3x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 56(60)64(64)66 sts.

    When the armhole measures 5(6)7(8)9 cm, on the next RS row work 30(32)34(34)35 sts and turn work. Leave 26(28)30(30)31 sts on the left side on hold for the slit.

    Continue with the right-side sts. At the slit end, work 4 sts in garter st. After 2 cm, make a buttonhole: on the next RS row, work to last 3 sts, yarn over, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), k1. After 2 cm, make another buttonhole as established.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14)15 cm, leave 13(13)14(14)14 sts at the slit end on hold for the neckline. On every other row, bind off 1x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm, break yarn and leave the remaining 13(15)16(16)17 shoulder sts on hold.

    Place the 26(28)30(30)31 left-side sts back on the needles and pick up 4 additional sts from the slit (from the WS) = 30(32)34(34)35 sts. Mirror the right side (omit the buttonholes).

    Top front

    With the 62(66)70(72)76 front sts, work stockinette st flat. On every other row, bind off 1x2 sts and 1(1)1(2)2x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 56(60)64(64)66 sts.

    When the armhole measures 7(8)9(10)11 cm, leave the middle 22(22)24(24)24 on hold for the neckline. Work the right side first. On every other row, bind off 1x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm, break yarn and leave the remaining 13(15)16(16)17 shoulder sts on hold. On the left side, mirror the right side but do not break yarn.

    Shoulder seams: Turn the work inside out. Place the right back shoulder sts back onto the needles and align the shoulders. Work the sts together as follows: purl together the first sts of both needles, then drop them off the needles. Work the second pair of sts in the same manner. Now pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Keep binding off as established. Alternatively, you can bind off all sts and sew the shoulder seam. Work the left shoulder in the same manner.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles, cast on 42(44)46(46)48 sts and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round.

    When the piece measures 5(4)4(3)3 cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round (underside of the sleeve): k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1, k1. Repeat the increases every 5(4)4(3,5)3,5 cm 2(4)5(7)8 more times = 48(54)58(62)66 sts.

    When the piece measures 27(30)33(36)39 cm, on the next round work to last 3(3)3(4)5 sts, bind off next 6(7)7(9)10 sts, work to end of round = 42(47)51(53)56 sts.

    Work stockinette st flat. On every other row, bind off 6(7)8(9)10x2 sts and 1x3 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Attach the sleeves.

    Neckline: Place the neckline sts onto the smaller double-pointed needles and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 101(101)103(103)105 sts. Begin ribbing: (RS) k2, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *–*, k2. Work ribbing flat. On the next row (WS), make one more buttonhole at the neckline edge: work 2 sts, work 2 sts together, yarn over, work to end. After a total of 5 rows in ribbing, bind off in pattern.

    Sew on the buttons.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 62(66)70(74)78 cm / 24½(26)27½(29¼)30¾ in

    length 53(57)61(66)72 cm / 20¾(22½)24(26)28¼ in

    inner sleeve length 27(30)33(36)39 cm / 10¾(11¾)13(14¼)15¼ in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Lace pattern in the round: follow the chart and instructions.Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. Ribbing (flat): *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. On WS rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts.

    Gauge 22 sts and 28 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in



    Body

    The body is knitted in one piece up to the armholes. Using the circular needles, cast on 224(232)240(256)264 sts, join for working in the round and knit 1 round.

    Begin the lace pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 8 st pattern 28(29)30(32)33 times. Work rows 2–6 of the chart, then repeat rows 1–6 3(3)3(4)4 more times.

    Now work stockinette st in the round. On the first round, evenly decrease 0(1)2(4)5 sts = 224(231)238(252)259 sts.

    When the piece measures 16(17)17(18)18 cm, place 7 markers , the first one at the beginning of round and the other 6 at 32(33)34(36)37 st intervals.

    On the next round, begin decreases: slip marker, k2tog, *work to marker, slip marker, k2tog*, repeat *–* 5 more times, work to end. 7 sts decreased, 217(224)231(245)252 sts on the needles.

    Repeat the decreases every 1,5 cm 11 more times = 140(147)154(168)175 sts. On the next round, evenly decrease 4(1)0(6)3 sts = 136(146)154(162)172 sts. Remove all markers except the beginning of round marker and place a second marker at the midpoint of round. 68(73)77(81)86 sts in the front and back.

    Work stockinette st in the round until the piece measures 40(43)46(50)55 cm.

    On the next round, work to last 3(3)3(4)5 sts before second marker,bind off next 6(7)7(9)10 sts for anarmhole, work to last 3(3)3(4)5 sts, bind off last 3(3)3(4)5 sts and the first 3(4)4(5)5 sts of the next round for the other armhole. 62(66)70(72)76 sts in the front and back. Leave the front sts on hold.

    Top back

    With the 62(66)70(72)76 back sts, work stockinette st flat. On every other row, bind off 1x2 sts and 1(1)1(2)3x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 56(60)64(64)66 sts.

    When the armhole measures 5(6)7(8)9 cm, on the next RS row work 30(32)34(34)35 sts and turn work. Leave 26(28)30(30)31 sts on the left side on hold for the slit.

    Continue with the right-side sts. At the slit end, work 4 sts in garter st. After 2 cm, make a buttonhole: on the next RS row, work to last 3 sts, yarn over, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), k1. After 2 cm, make another buttonhole as established.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14)15 cm, leave 13(13)14(14)14 sts at the slit end on hold for the neckline. On every other row, bind off 1x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm, break yarn and leave the remaining 13(15)16(16)17 shoulder sts on hold.

    Place the 26(28)30(30)31 left-side sts back on the needles and pick up 4 additional sts from the slit (from the WS) = 30(32)34(34)35 sts. Mirror the right side (omit the buttonholes).

    Top front

    With the 62(66)70(72)76 front sts, work stockinette st flat. On every other row, bind off 1x2 sts and 1(1)1(2)2x1 st at both ends for the armholes = 56(60)64(64)66 sts.

    When the armhole measures 7(8)9(10)11 cm, leave the middle 22(22)24(24)24 on hold for the neckline. Work the right side first. On every other row, bind off 1x2 sts and 2x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 13(14)15(16)17 cm, break yarn and leave the remaining 13(15)16(16)17 shoulder sts on hold. On the left side, mirror the right side but do not break yarn.

    Shoulder seams: Turn the work inside out. Place the right back shoulder sts back onto the needles and align the shoulders. Work the sts together as follows: purl together the first sts of both needles, then drop them off the needles. Work the second pair of sts in the same manner. Now pass the first st on the right-hand needle over the second one. Keep binding off as established. Alternatively, you can bind off all sts and sew the shoulder seam. Work the left shoulder in the same manner.

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles, cast on 42(44)46(46)48 sts and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm.

    Switch to the larger needles and work stockinette st in the round.

    When the piece measures 5(4)4(3)3 cm, increase 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round (underside of the sleeve): k1, increase 1 (knit the strand of yarn between the sts through the back loop), work to last st, increase 1, k1. Repeat the increases every 5(4)4(3,5)3,5 cm 2(4)5(7)8 more times = 48(54)58(62)66 sts.

    When the piece measures 27(30)33(36)39 cm, on the next round work to last 3(3)3(4)5 sts, bind off next 6(7)7(9)10 sts, work to end of round = 42(47)51(53)56 sts.

    Work stockinette st flat. On every other row, bind off 6(7)8(9)10x2 sts and 1x3 sts at both ends. Bind off the remaining sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Attach the sleeves.

    Neckline: Place the neckline sts onto the smaller double-pointed needles and pick up additional sts from the neckline edge for a total of 101(101)103(103)105 sts. Begin ribbing: (RS) k2, p1, *k1, p1*, repeat *–*, k2. Work ribbing flat. On the next row (WS), make one more buttonhole at the neckline edge: work 2 sts, work 2 sts together, yarn over, work to end. After a total of 5 rows in ribbing, bind off in pattern.

    Sew on the buttons.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

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