Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
Novita Merino 4PLY: Taimi colourwork sweater
As low as €4.94
The Taimi sweater features beautiful ornamental colourwork details in the hem and cuffs. The sweater is knitted top-down and seamlessly using the soft Novita Merino 4PLY yarn.
Novita Syksy 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
9
Intermediate
Availability: In stock
N03219
Size
XS(S)M(L)XL(2XL)3XLYarn demand
Novita Merino 4PLY
(388) Pine 250(250)300(350)400(500)550 g
(006) Semolina Porridge 50(50)<100(<100)100(100)150 g
Needles and other supplies
Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in; 80 cm / 32 in) Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) and 3.25–3.5 mm (UK 10 / US 3–4) or sizes needed; 3 mm and 3.25–3.5 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves, if you don’t use the Magic Loop technique
Designer
Ronja HakalehtoYoke
Using the smaller 40 cm circular needle and Pine, cast on 158(160)162(166)170(172)176 sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 8 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Knit 1 round and place the raglan markers: k1 (front), place 1st marker, k18(14)12(10)16(14)12 (sleeve), place 2nd marker, k61(66)69(73)69(72)76 (back), place 3rd marker, k18(14)12(10)16(14)12 (sleeve), place 4th marker, k60(65)68(72)68(71)75 (front).
Begin raglan increases and short rows:
Row 1: M1R (make 1 right: using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop), k1 (front), slip 1st marker, k1 (sleeve), m1L (make 1 left: using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop), k16(12)10(8)14(12)10, m1R, k1, slip 2nd marker, k1 (back), m1L, k59(64)67(71)67(70)74, m1R, k1, slip 3rd marker, k1 (sleeve), m1L, k16(12)10(8)14(12)10, m1R, k1, slip 4th marker, k1 (front), m1L, k4. 8 sts increased, 166(168)170(174)178(180)184 sts on the needles: 63(68)71(75)71(74)78 sts in the front and back, 20(16)14(12)18(16)14 sts in the sleeves. Turn work and yarn over.
Row 2: (WS) slip 1 and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to beginning of round marker, slip marker, p6. Turn work and yarn over.
Row 3: (RS) double st, knit to last st before 1st marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit to last st before 2nd marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit to last st before 3rd marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit to last st before 4th marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit until you have knitted 5 sts after the previous turning point (knit the loops of the double st together), turn work and yarn over. 8 sts increased.
Row 4: (WS) double st, purl to beginning of round marker, purl until you have worked 5 sts after the double st. Turn work and yarn over.
Repeat rows 3–4 four more times.
On the next round work stockinette st. Work the raglan increases and knit the double sts as if to k2tog. 206(208)210(214)218(220)224 sts on the needles: 73(78)81(85)81(84)88 sts in the front and back, 30(26)24(22)28(26)24 sts in the sleeves.
Work stockinette st and keep working the raglan increases as follows:
Sizes XS, S, M and L: increase on every other round until there are 430(448)466(486) sts on the needles: 129(138)145(153) sts in the front and back, 86(86)88(90) sts in the sleeves.
Sizes XL, 2XL and 3XL: increase 20(20)24 more times on every other round. Then increase on every other round in the front and back and on every 4th round in the sleeves until there are 474(488)512 sts on the needles: 153(160)168 sts in the front and back, 84(84)88 sts in the sleeves.
Next round: k1, remove 1st marker, leave the 86(86)88(90)84(84)86 sleeve sts on hold, remove 2nd marker, cast on 0(1)4(6)13(17)19 sts for armhole, place marker, cast on 0(2)4(6)14(18)20 sts. Knit the 129(138)145(153)153(160)168 back sts, remove 3rd marker, leave the 86(86)88(90)84(84)86 sleeve sts on hold, remove 4th marker, cast on 0(3)8(12)27(35)39 for armhole, work to end. The beginning of round is now at the new marker, at the midpoint of the left armhole.
Body
With the 258(282)306(330)360(390)414 sts, work stockinette st in the round until the side measures 10(11)12(13)14(16)18 cm from the armhole.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 6 st pattern 43(47)51(55)60(65)69 times. Work rows 2–52 of the chart.
Using Pine, work 4 rounds in stockinette st.
Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Use either the double-pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique and the circular needles.
Place the 86(86)88(90)84(84)88 sleeve sts onto the larger needles. Beginning at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on, pick up 0(2)5(7)14(18)20 sts from the armhole and knit them using Pine. Knit the 86(86)88(90)84(84)88 sleeve sts, pick up and knit 0(2)5(7)14(18)20 more sts from the other end of the armhole = 86(90)98(104)112(120)128 sts. Place marker for beginning of round and work stockinette in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2(2)1.5(1)1(1)1 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 4(3)3(2.5)2.5(1.5)1.5 cm 6(8)9(12)13(17)18 more times = 72(72)78(78)84(84)90 sts.
When you have completed the decreases and the sleeve measures 30(31)32(33)34(34)35 cm, begin the colourwork pattern on row 10 of the chart. Repeat the 6 st pattern 12(12)13(13)14(14)15 times. Work rows 11–43 of the chart.
Using Pine, work 4 rounds in stockinette st. On the last round, evenly decrease 4(4)8(8)10(10)14 sts = 68(68)70(70)74(74)76 sts.
Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 5 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Fold the collar and sew the edge to the inside.
Finished dimensions
body circumference 92(100)108(118)128(140)148 cm / 36¼(39¼)42½(46½)50½(55)58¼ in
length 49(51)53(55)57(60)63 cm / 19¼(20)20¾(21¾)22½(23½)24¾ in
inner sleeve length 46(47)48(49)50(50)51 cm / 18(18½)19(19¼)19¾(19¾)20 in
Stitch patterns & gauge
Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *–*. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Colourwork: follow the chart and instructions.
Gauge 28 sts and 38 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in
28 sts and 33 rows in colourwork with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in
Note The sweater is knitted top down and seamlessly (see pattern for direction of knitting).
Yoke
Using the smaller 40 cm circular needle and Pine, cast on 158(160)162(166)170(172)176 sts, place marker for beginning of round and work ribbing in the round for 8 cm.
Switch to the larger needles. Knit 1 round and place the raglan markers: k1 (front), place 1st marker, k18(14)12(10)16(14)12 (sleeve), place 2nd marker, k61(66)69(73)69(72)76 (back), place 3rd marker, k18(14)12(10)16(14)12 (sleeve), place 4th marker, k60(65)68(72)68(71)75 (front).
Begin raglan increases and short rows:
Row 1: M1R (make 1 right: using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the back and knit it through the front loop), k1 (front), slip 1st marker, k1 (sleeve), m1L (make 1 left: using the left needle, pick up the strand of yarn between the sts from the front and knit it through the back loop), k16(12)10(8)14(12)10, m1R, k1, slip 2nd marker, k1 (back), m1L, k59(64)67(71)67(70)74, m1R, k1, slip 3rd marker, k1 (sleeve), m1L, k16(12)10(8)14(12)10, m1R, k1, slip 4th marker, k1 (front), m1L, k4. 8 sts increased, 166(168)170(174)178(180)184 sts on the needles: 63(68)71(75)71(74)78 sts in the front and back, 20(16)14(12)18(16)14 sts in the sleeves. Turn work and yarn over.
Row 2: (WS) slip 1 and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st and yo come over the needle (= double stitch), purl to beginning of round marker, slip marker, p6. Turn work and yarn over.
Row 3: (RS) double st, knit to last st before 1st marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit to last st before 2nd marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit to last st before 3rd marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit to last st before 4th marker, m1R, k1, slip marker, k1, m1L, knit until you have knitted 5 sts after the previous turning point (knit the loops of the double st together), turn work and yarn over. 8 sts increased.
Row 4: (WS) double st, purl to beginning of round marker, purl until you have worked 5 sts after the double st. Turn work and yarn over.
Repeat rows 3–4 four more times.
On the next round work stockinette st. Work the raglan increases and knit the double sts as if to k2tog. 206(208)210(214)218(220)224 sts on the needles: 73(78)81(85)81(84)88 sts in the front and back, 30(26)24(22)28(26)24 sts in the sleeves.
Work stockinette st and keep working the raglan increases as follows:
Sizes XS, S, M and L: increase on every other round until there are 430(448)466(486) sts on the needles: 129(138)145(153) sts in the front and back, 86(86)88(90) sts in the sleeves.
Sizes XL, 2XL and 3XL: increase 20(20)24 more times on every other round. Then increase on every other round in the front and back and on every 4th round in the sleeves until there are 474(488)512 sts on the needles: 153(160)168 sts in the front and back, 84(84)88 sts in the sleeves.
Next round: k1, remove 1st marker, leave the 86(86)88(90)84(84)86 sleeve sts on hold, remove 2nd marker, cast on 0(1)4(6)13(17)19 sts for armhole, place marker, cast on 0(2)4(6)14(18)20 sts. Knit the 129(138)145(153)153(160)168 back sts, remove 3rd marker, leave the 86(86)88(90)84(84)86 sleeve sts on hold, remove 4th marker, cast on 0(3)8(12)27(35)39 for armhole, work to end. The beginning of round is now at the new marker, at the midpoint of the left armhole.
Body
With the 258(282)306(330)360(390)414 sts, work stockinette st in the round until the side measures 10(11)12(13)14(16)18 cm from the armhole.
Begin the colourwork pattern on row 1 of the chart. Repeat the 6 st pattern 43(47)51(55)60(65)69 times. Work rows 2–52 of the chart.
Using Pine, work 4 rounds in stockinette st.
Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 4 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Sleeves
Use either the double-pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique and the circular needles.
Place the 86(86)88(90)84(84)88 sleeve sts onto the larger needles. Beginning at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on, pick up 0(2)5(7)14(18)20 sts from the armhole and knit them using Pine. Knit the 86(86)88(90)84(84)88 sleeve sts, pick up and knit 0(2)5(7)14(18)20 more sts from the other end of the armhole = 86(90)98(104)112(120)128 sts. Place marker for beginning of round and work stockinette in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2(2)1.5(1)1(1)1 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round: k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the decreases every 4(3)3(2.5)2.5(1.5)1.5 cm 6(8)9(12)13(17)18 more times = 72(72)78(78)84(84)90 sts.
When you have completed the decreases and the sleeve measures 30(31)32(33)34(34)35 cm, begin the colourwork pattern on row 10 of the chart. Repeat the 6 st pattern 12(12)13(13)14(14)15 times. Work rows 11–43 of the chart.
Using Pine, work 4 rounds in stockinette st. On the last round, evenly decrease 4(4)8(8)10(10)14 sts = 68(68)70(70)74(74)76 sts.
Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 5 cm. Bind off in pattern.
Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.
Finishing
Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.
Fold the collar and sew the edge to the inside.
This pattern is publish in the latest issue of Novita Magazine. You can buy your own copy here
Beginner
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Technique
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
Patterns
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Adventurous beginner
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Technique
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
Intermediate
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
Technique
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Advanced
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
Technique
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Gauge and Swatching
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
Adjusting gauge
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.
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