Novita Merino 4PLY: Seea knitted dress

As low as €5.54

Designed by Lotta Sorvoja and knitted from the thin Novita Merino 4ply yarn, the festive Seea dress hangs beautifully and has an ample hem – ideal for twirling! The dress also features baggy sleeves and a dainty buttonband on the back.
Novita Talvi 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
34
Intermediate
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    €5.54

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    Availability: In stock

    N042134
    Size
    92/98(104/110)116/122(128/134)

    Yarn demand

    Novita Merino 4PLY

    (649) Chantarelle 350(400)450(500) g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in; 80 cm / 32 in) Novita 2.5 mm (US 1½) and 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or sizes needed; 2.5 mm and 3 mm double-pointed needles for the sleeves

    Other supplies 5 buttons (diameter approx. 1 cm / ½ in)



    Designer
    Lotta Sorvoja

    Top front and back

    The top is knitted in one piece to the armholes, with an opening at the back (see pattern for direction of knitting).

    Using the larger circular needle (80 cm), cast on 169(181)193(205) sts and work stockinette st: (WS) k2, purl to last 2 sts, k2. Keep working 2 sts at both ends in garter st. With the other sts, work stockinette st. Slip the last st of each row.

    Note: After 1(2)1(2) cm, make the first buttonhole at the left end: (RS) work to last 5 sts, yarn over, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to end. Make 4 more buttonholes at 3(3)3.5(3.5) cm intervals.

    Note: When the piece measures 3 cm, place side markers so that there are 44(47)50(53) sts at the right end (left back piece), 81(87)93(99) sts in the centre (front) and 44(47)50(53) sts at the left end (right back). Divide the sts into three groups: on the next RS row, work to last 2(3)4(5) sts before side marker, bind off next 4(6)8(10) sts for armhole, work to last 2(3)4(5) sts before side marker, bind off next 4(6)8(10) sts for armhole, work to end. 42(44)46(48) sts in both back pieces, 77(81)85(89) sts in the front.

     

    Top right back

    Continue with the 42(44)46(48) sts at the left end. On every other row decrease 4(4)5(5)x1 st at the right end for armhole = 38(40)41(43) sts. Note: Remember to make the buttonholes as established.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14) cm, bind off 19(20)20(22) sts at the left end for neckline. Bind off a further 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 17(18)19(19) shoulder sts.

     

    Top left back

    Continue with the 42(44)46(48) sts at the right end. On every other row decrease 4(4)5(5)x1 st at the left end for armhole = 38(40)41(43) sts.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14) cm, bind off 19(20)20(22) sts at the right end for neckline. Bind off a further 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 17(18)19(19) shoulder sts.

     

    Top front

    Continue with the 77(81)85(89) sts in the centre. On every other row decrease 4(4)5(5)x1 st for armholes at both ends = 69(73)75(79) sts.

    When the armhole measures 8(9)10(11) cm, bind off the middle 27(29)29(33) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row, bind off 4x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 17(18)19(19) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

     

    Hem

    The piece is knitted from the top down. Sew the shoulder seams. Place the back pieces on top of each other, with 7 sts from the pieces overlapping and the buttonholes on the outside.

    1st frill section: using the larger circular needle (40 cm), pick up 1 st from each st in the top [162(174)186(198) sts] and yarn over after each picked-up st = 324(348)372(396) sts.

    Work stockinette st in the round using the longer circular needle. On the first round, knit the yarn overs through the back loop to avoid gaps.

    When the frill section measures 20(21.5)22.5(24) cm, bind off.

    2nd frill section: using the larger circular needle (80 cm), pick up 1 st from each st in the previous frill section [324(348)372(396) sts] and yarn over after each picked-up st = 648(696)744(792) sts.

    Work stockinette st in the round. On the first round, knit the yarn overs through the back loop to avoid gaps.

    When the section measures 20(21.5)22.5(24) cm, purl 1 round (= fold round). Switch to the smaller circular needle, work stockinette st in the round and bind off.

    Fold the hem at the fold round and sew the edge to the inside.

     

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles, cast on 36(39)42(45) sts and work garter st in the round: purl 1 round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round. Place marker for beginning of round.

    Switch to the larger needles. On the next round increase 36(39)42(45) sts: *k1, yo*, repeat *–* to end of round. 72(78)84(90) sts on the needles. Work stockinette st in the round. On the first round, knit the yarn overs through the back loop to avoid gaps.

    When the piece measures 23(26)29(32) cm, work next round to last 2(3)4(5) sts before marker. Bind off 2(3)4(5) sts and the first 2(3)4(5) sts of the next round. Work stockinette st back and forth. On every other row decrease 4(4)5(5)x1 st at both ends = 60(64)66(70) sts.

    Work for 7(8)8(9) cm without decreasing, then decrease 8x1 st at both ends on every other row. On the next RS row, k2tog to end of row and bind off all sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Neckline: Using the smaller circular needle and with RS facing pick up and knit a total of 96(100)100(104) sts from the neckline. Work garter st for 2 rows, then bind off in knit on WS.

    Sew the sleeves to the armholes, gathering the sleeve cap evenly into the upper sleeve.

    Sew on the buttons. Steam the dress lightly.

    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 56(60)64(68) cm / 22(23½)25¼(26¾) in

    length 55(59)62(66) cm / 21¾(23¼)24½(26) in

    inner sleeve length 23(26)29(32) cm / 9(10¼)11½(12½) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows. Garter stitch (flat): knit all rows. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows.

    Gauge 29 sts and 41 rows in stockinette st with larger needles = 10 cm / 4 in

     



    Top front and back

    The top is knitted in one piece to the armholes, with an opening at the back (see pattern for direction of knitting).

    Using the larger circular needle (80 cm), cast on 169(181)193(205) sts and work stockinette st: (WS) k2, purl to last 2 sts, k2. Keep working 2 sts at both ends in garter st. With the other sts, work stockinette st. Slip the last st of each row.

    Note: After 1(2)1(2) cm, make the first buttonhole at the left end: (RS) work to last 5 sts, yarn over, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to end. Make 4 more buttonholes at 3(3)3.5(3.5) cm intervals.

    Note: When the piece measures 3 cm, place side markers so that there are 44(47)50(53) sts at the right end (left back piece), 81(87)93(99) sts in the centre (front) and 44(47)50(53) sts at the left end (right back). Divide the sts into three groups: on the next RS row, work to last 2(3)4(5) sts before side marker, bind off next 4(6)8(10) sts for armhole, work to last 2(3)4(5) sts before side marker, bind off next 4(6)8(10) sts for armhole, work to end. 42(44)46(48) sts in both back pieces, 77(81)85(89) sts in the front.

     

    Top right back

    Continue with the 42(44)46(48) sts at the left end. On every other row decrease 4(4)5(5)x1 st at the right end for armhole = 38(40)41(43) sts. Note: Remember to make the buttonholes as established.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14) cm, bind off 19(20)20(22) sts at the left end for neckline. Bind off a further 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 17(18)19(19) shoulder sts.

     

    Top left back

    Continue with the 42(44)46(48) sts at the right end. On every other row decrease 4(4)5(5)x1 st at the left end for armhole = 38(40)41(43) sts.

    When the armhole measures 11(12)13(14) cm, bind off 19(20)20(22) sts at the right end for neckline. Bind off a further 1x2 sts at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 17(18)19(19) shoulder sts.

     

    Top front

    Continue with the 77(81)85(89) sts in the centre. On every other row decrease 4(4)5(5)x1 st for armholes at both ends = 69(73)75(79) sts.

    When the armhole measures 8(9)10(11) cm, bind off the middle 27(29)29(33) sts for the neckline. Work one side at a time. On every other row, bind off 4x1 st at the neckline edge.

    When the armhole measures 12(13)14(15) cm, bind off the 17(18)19(19) shoulder sts.

    Knit the other side in the same manner.

     

    Hem

    The piece is knitted from the top down. Sew the shoulder seams. Place the back pieces on top of each other, with 7 sts from the pieces overlapping and the buttonholes on the outside.

    1st frill section: using the larger circular needle (40 cm), pick up 1 st from each st in the top [162(174)186(198) sts] and yarn over after each picked-up st = 324(348)372(396) sts.

    Work stockinette st in the round using the longer circular needle. On the first round, knit the yarn overs through the back loop to avoid gaps.

    When the frill section measures 20(21.5)22.5(24) cm, bind off.

    2nd frill section: using the larger circular needle (80 cm), pick up 1 st from each st in the previous frill section [324(348)372(396) sts] and yarn over after each picked-up st = 648(696)744(792) sts.

    Work stockinette st in the round. On the first round, knit the yarn overs through the back loop to avoid gaps.

    When the section measures 20(21.5)22.5(24) cm, purl 1 round (= fold round). Switch to the smaller circular needle, work stockinette st in the round and bind off.

    Fold the hem at the fold round and sew the edge to the inside.

     

    Sleeves

    Using the smaller double-pointed needles, cast on 36(39)42(45) sts and work garter st in the round: purl 1 round, knit 1 round, purl 1 round. Place marker for beginning of round.

    Switch to the larger needles. On the next round increase 36(39)42(45) sts: *k1, yo*, repeat *–* to end of round. 72(78)84(90) sts on the needles. Work stockinette st in the round. On the first round, knit the yarn overs through the back loop to avoid gaps.

    When the piece measures 23(26)29(32) cm, work next round to last 2(3)4(5) sts before marker. Bind off 2(3)4(5) sts and the first 2(3)4(5) sts of the next round. Work stockinette st back and forth. On every other row decrease 4(4)5(5)x1 st at both ends = 60(64)66(70) sts.

    Work for 7(8)8(9) cm without decreasing, then decrease 8x1 st at both ends on every other row. On the next RS row, k2tog to end of row and bind off all sts.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

     

    Finishing

    Neckline: Using the smaller circular needle and with RS facing pick up and knit a total of 96(100)100(104) sts from the neckline. Work garter st for 2 rows, then bind off in knit on WS.

    Sew the sleeves to the armholes, gathering the sleeve cap evenly into the upper sleeve.

    Sew on the buttons. Steam the dress lightly.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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