Finnish Yarns and Design Since 1928
As low as €3.02
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Novita Merino 4PLY
(112) Forget Me Not 300(350)400(450)500(550) g
Needles: Novita 3 mm (US 2 or 3 / UK 11) and 3.5 mm (US 4 / UK 10 or 9) size knitting needles, or needle size necessary to fit gauge, and for the collar a short (40 cm / 16”) circular needle size 3 mm (US 2 or 3 / UK 11).
Notions: 3 buttons
Back
CO 123(133)143(153)163(183) sts using the smaller size ndls and work 3 rows in g st.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working lace pattern acc to chart I, row 1 , as follows: k2, work patt rep of 10 sts 12(13)14(15)16(18) times and k1. Work rows 2-8 of chart, then rep rows 1-8.
When work measures 36(37)38(39)41(42) cm / 14.2(14.6)15(15.4)16.1(16.5)”, BO 5(7)9(9)11(12) sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, then BO 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, BO 2 sts at the beg of the next 4(6)6(6)8(8) rows and BO 1 st at the beg of the next 6(4)4(6)4(6) rows = 93(97)103(111)115(131) sts. Please note that in each pattern repeat of the lace pattern, for every pair of sts that are knitted together, a yarn over is also worked, so the number of sts remains the same. When 1 of the 2 sts to be worked tog has been bound off, do not make the decrease and work the rem st as k1.
When armhole measures 9(10)11(12)13(14) cm / 3.5(4)4.3(4.7)5.1(5.5)”, in the next RS row, work 47(49)52(56)58(66) sts in pattern, place the next 46(48)51(55)57(65) sts of left back part on hold, and work each part separately, to form the slit. Work the right side of back part first. Continue working in lace pattern and work the st at the edge of the slit in g st.
When armhole measures 17(18)19(20)21(22) cm / 6.7(7.1)7.5(7.9)8.3(8.7)”, BO 16(17)18(19)19(20) sts for the neckline, at the slit, and in every 2nd row BO 2 sts twice.
When armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm / 7.5(7.9)8.3(8.7)9.1(9.5)”, BO the rem 27(28)30(33)35(42) shoulder-sts.
Place the 46(48)51(55)57(65) held sts of left back part back onto the ndl and in the next RS row, PUK 1 st behind the selvedge st at the edge of the slit = 47(49)52(56)58(66) sts.
Work the left back part in the same way as described for right back part, but reverse shaping.
Front
CO 123(133)143(153)163(183) sts using the smaller size ndls and work 3 rows in g st.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working lace pattern acc to chart I, row 1, as follows: k2, work patt rep of 10 sts 12(13)14(15)16(18) times and k1 st. Work rows 2-8 of chart, then rep rows 1-8.
When work measures 36(37)38(39)41(42) cm / 14.2(14.6)15(15.4)16.1(16.5)”, BO 5(7)9(9)11(12) sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, then BO 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, BO 2 sts at the beg of the next 4(6)6(6)8(8) rows and BO 1 st at the beg of the next 6(4)4(6)4(6) rows = 93(97)103(111)115(131) sts. Please note that in each pattern repeat of the lace pattern, for every pair of sts that are knitted together, a yarn over is also worked, so the number of sts remains the same. When 1 of the 2 sts to be worked tog has been bound off, do not make the decrease and work the rem st as k1.
When armhole measures 14(15)16(17)18(19) cm / 5.5(5.9)6.3(6.7)7.1(7.5)”, place the 25(27)29(31)31(33) center sts on hold, for the neckline and work each shoulder separately. BO for neckline in every 2nd row 3 sts once, 2 sts once and 1 st 2 times.
When armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm / 7.5(7.9)8.3(8.7)9.1(9.5)”, BO the rem 27(28)30(33)35(42) shoulder-sts.
Work the second shoulder in the same way.
Sleeves
CO 69(69)75(77)77(83) sts using the smaller size ndls and continue working lace pattern acc to chart II, row 1, as follows: work the first 2(2)1(2)2(1) sts in st st, work patt rep of 8 sts 8(8)9(9)9(10) times and work the last 3(3)2(3)3(2) sts in st st. Work row 2 of lace pattern acc to chart, then rep rows 1-2.
Only for sizes M, XL, XXL and 3XL: when work measures 5(7,5)5(5) cm / 2(3)2(2)”, inc 1 st at the beg and end of the row. Rep these inc’s every 5(7,5)5(5) cm / 2(3)2(2)” , 1(0)1(1) more time = 69(73)75(79)81(87) sts. Work the increased sts in st st.
When work measures 15 cm / 5.9”, continue working rows 3-4 of lace pattern, acc to chart II. After these 2 rows,16(16)18(18)18(20) sts are increased and 85(89)93(97)99(107) sts are on the ndl.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working lace pattern acc to chart II, starting with row 5, as follows: work the first 2(4)1(3)4(3) sts in st st, work patt rep of 10 sts 8(8)9(9)9(10) times and work the last 3(5)2(4)5(4) sts in st st.
When sleeve, from cuff, measures 17(9)7,5(7,5)6,5(6,5) cm / 6.7(3.5)3(3)2.6(2.6)”, inc 1 st at the beg and end of the row. Rep these inc’s every 0(9)7,5(7,5)6,5(6,5) cm / 0(3.5)3(3)2.6(2.6)” another 0(2)3(3)4(4) times = 87(95)101(105)109(117) sts. Work the increased sts in lace pattern.
When sleeve, from cuff, measures 35(36)37(38)38(39) cm / 13.8(14.2)14.6(15)15(15.4)”, BO for sleeve cap shaping, as follows: at the beg of every row, BO 4(5)5(6)6(8) sts 2 times, 3 sts 0(2)2(2)2(2) times, 2 sts 6(4)4(4)4(4) times, 1 st 35(40)44(50)50(52) times, 2 sts 8(6)6(4)4(6)times and 3 sts 2 times. BO the rem sts.
Work the second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place work inside out onto a flat surface, dampen and let dry. Close shoulder seams.
Collar: place held sts of front part back onto the ndl, PUK additional sts along neckline, up to a total of 107(107)115(115)115(115) sts. The total stitch count should be divisible by 8 + 11 sts.
Continue working lace pattern acc to chart III, first row is a RS row, as follows: k2, work patt rep of 8 sts 12(12)13(13)13(13) times, k9. Work row 2 of chart and then rep rows 1-2, until collar measures 7 cm / 2,8”, ending with a RS row. In the next WS row, knit all sts, then loosely BO all sts.
Close side- and sleeve seams. Sew sleeves in armholes.
Secure the buttons to the left side of the slit. The eyelets in the lace pattern serve as buttonholes.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
cdd = centered double decrease: slip 2 sts together knitwise, k1, pass slipped sts over
circ. = circular
CO = cast on
g st = garter stitch
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
patt = pattern
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
WS = wrong side
yo(‘s) = yarn over(s)
Translations charts and legends:
1 M re, in Rückrunde 1 M li = k1, p on WS
1 M li, in Rückrunde 1 M re = p1, k on WS
1 Umschlag auf die Nadel machen = yo
1 M wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, 1 M re und die abgehobene M über die gestrickte M heben = skp
2 M re zusammenstricken = k2tog
2 M wie zum rechts Zusammenstricken ungestrickt abheben, 1 M re und die abgehobenen M über die gestrickte M heben = cdd
Diagramm = Chart
Musterrapport wiederholt sich = pattern repeat
Finished measurements
Bust circumference: 92(100)108(116)124(138) cm / 36(39)42(45)49(54)”
Total length: 55(57)59(61)64(66) cm / 21.7(22.4)23.2(24)25.2(26)”
Underarm length: 50(51)52(53)53(54) cm / 19.7(20.1)20.5(20.9)20.9(21.3)”
Stitch patterns: Garter stitch: knit all sts on RS- and WS rows. Lace pattern: work according to chart and instructions. Please note that in each pattern repeat of the lace pattern, for every pair of sts that are knitted together, a yarn over is also worked, so the number of sts remains the same. When 1 of the 2 sts to be worked tog has been bound off, do not make the decrease and work the rem st as k1. Stockinette stitch: knit the RS rows and purl the WS rows.
Gauge/Tension: 26 sts and 40 rows, worked in lace pattern using the larger size ndls (chart I rows 1–8) = 10 x 10 cm / 4” square,
35 sts worked in lace pattern using the smaller size ndls (chart II rows 1–2) = 10 cm / 4”
Back
CO 123(133)143(153)163(183) sts using the smaller size ndls and work 3 rows in g st.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working lace pattern acc to chart I, row 1 , as follows: k2, work patt rep of 10 sts 12(13)14(15)16(18) times and k1. Work rows 2-8 of chart, then rep rows 1-8.
When work measures 36(37)38(39)41(42) cm / 14.2(14.6)15(15.4)16.1(16.5)”, BO 5(7)9(9)11(12) sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, then BO 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, BO 2 sts at the beg of the next 4(6)6(6)8(8) rows and BO 1 st at the beg of the next 6(4)4(6)4(6) rows = 93(97)103(111)115(131) sts. Please note that in each pattern repeat of the lace pattern, for every pair of sts that are knitted together, a yarn over is also worked, so the number of sts remains the same. When 1 of the 2 sts to be worked tog has been bound off, do not make the decrease and work the rem st as k1.
When armhole measures 9(10)11(12)13(14) cm / 3.5(4)4.3(4.7)5.1(5.5)”, in the next RS row, work 47(49)52(56)58(66) sts in pattern, place the next 46(48)51(55)57(65) sts of left back part on hold, and work each part separately, to form the slit. Work the right side of back part first. Continue working in lace pattern and work the st at the edge of the slit in g st.
When armhole measures 17(18)19(20)21(22) cm / 6.7(7.1)7.5(7.9)8.3(8.7)”, BO 16(17)18(19)19(20) sts for the neckline, at the slit, and in every 2nd row BO 2 sts twice.
When armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm / 7.5(7.9)8.3(8.7)9.1(9.5)”, BO the rem 27(28)30(33)35(42) shoulder-sts.
Place the 46(48)51(55)57(65) held sts of left back part back onto the ndl and in the next RS row, PUK 1 st behind the selvedge st at the edge of the slit = 47(49)52(56)58(66) sts.
Work the left back part in the same way as described for right back part, but reverse shaping.
Front
CO 123(133)143(153)163(183) sts using the smaller size ndls and work 3 rows in g st.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working lace pattern acc to chart I, row 1, as follows: k2, work patt rep of 10 sts 12(13)14(15)16(18) times and k1 st. Work rows 2-8 of chart, then rep rows 1-8.
When work measures 36(37)38(39)41(42) cm / 14.2(14.6)15(15.4)16.1(16.5)”, BO 5(7)9(9)11(12) sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, then BO 3 sts at the beg of the next 2 rows, BO 2 sts at the beg of the next 4(6)6(6)8(8) rows and BO 1 st at the beg of the next 6(4)4(6)4(6) rows = 93(97)103(111)115(131) sts. Please note that in each pattern repeat of the lace pattern, for every pair of sts that are knitted together, a yarn over is also worked, so the number of sts remains the same. When 1 of the 2 sts to be worked tog has been bound off, do not make the decrease and work the rem st as k1.
When armhole measures 14(15)16(17)18(19) cm / 5.5(5.9)6.3(6.7)7.1(7.5)”, place the 25(27)29(31)31(33) center sts on hold, for the neckline and work each shoulder separately. BO for neckline in every 2nd row 3 sts once, 2 sts once and 1 st 2 times.
When armhole measures 19(20)21(22)23(24) cm / 7.5(7.9)8.3(8.7)9.1(9.5)”, BO the rem 27(28)30(33)35(42) shoulder-sts.
Work the second shoulder in the same way.
Sleeves
CO 69(69)75(77)77(83) sts using the smaller size ndls and continue working lace pattern acc to chart II, row 1, as follows: work the first 2(2)1(2)2(1) sts in st st, work patt rep of 8 sts 8(8)9(9)9(10) times and work the last 3(3)2(3)3(2) sts in st st. Work row 2 of lace pattern acc to chart, then rep rows 1-2.
Only for sizes M, XL, XXL and 3XL: when work measures 5(7,5)5(5) cm / 2(3)2(2)”, inc 1 st at the beg and end of the row. Rep these inc’s every 5(7,5)5(5) cm / 2(3)2(2)” , 1(0)1(1) more time = 69(73)75(79)81(87) sts. Work the increased sts in st st.
When work measures 15 cm / 5.9”, continue working rows 3-4 of lace pattern, acc to chart II. After these 2 rows,16(16)18(18)18(20) sts are increased and 85(89)93(97)99(107) sts are on the ndl.
Change to the larger size ndls and continue working lace pattern acc to chart II, starting with row 5, as follows: work the first 2(4)1(3)4(3) sts in st st, work patt rep of 10 sts 8(8)9(9)9(10) times and work the last 3(5)2(4)5(4) sts in st st.
When sleeve, from cuff, measures 17(9)7,5(7,5)6,5(6,5) cm / 6.7(3.5)3(3)2.6(2.6)”, inc 1 st at the beg and end of the row. Rep these inc’s every 0(9)7,5(7,5)6,5(6,5) cm / 0(3.5)3(3)2.6(2.6)” another 0(2)3(3)4(4) times = 87(95)101(105)109(117) sts. Work the increased sts in lace pattern.
When sleeve, from cuff, measures 35(36)37(38)38(39) cm / 13.8(14.2)14.6(15)15(15.4)”, BO for sleeve cap shaping, as follows: at the beg of every row, BO 4(5)5(6)6(8) sts 2 times, 3 sts 0(2)2(2)2(2) times, 2 sts 6(4)4(4)4(4) times, 1 st 35(40)44(50)50(52) times, 2 sts 8(6)6(4)4(6)times and 3 sts 2 times. BO the rem sts.
Work the second sleeve in the same way.
Finishing
Place work inside out onto a flat surface, dampen and let dry. Close shoulder seams.
Collar: place held sts of front part back onto the ndl, PUK additional sts along neckline, up to a total of 107(107)115(115)115(115) sts. The total stitch count should be divisible by 8 + 11 sts.
Continue working lace pattern acc to chart III, first row is a RS row, as follows: k2, work patt rep of 8 sts 12(12)13(13)13(13) times, k9. Work row 2 of chart and then rep rows 1-2, until collar measures 7 cm / 2,8”, ending with a RS row. In the next WS row, knit all sts, then loosely BO all sts.
Close side- and sleeve seams. Sew sleeves in armholes.
Secure the buttons to the left side of the slit. The eyelets in the lace pattern serve as buttonholes.
Abbreviations
acc = according
beg = begin(ning)
BO = bind off
cdd = centered double decrease: slip 2 sts together knitwise, k1, pass slipped sts over
circ. = circular
CO = cast on
g st = garter stitch
inc(‘s) = increase(s)
k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 sts together
ndl(s) = needle(s)
p = purl
patt = pattern
PUK = pick up and knit
rem = remaining
rep = repeat
rnd(s) = round(s)
skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over
RS = right side
st(s) = stitch(es)
st st = stockinette st
WS = wrong side
yo(‘s) = yarn over(s)
Translations charts and legends:
1 M re, in Rückrunde 1 M li = k1, p on WS
1 M li, in Rückrunde 1 M re = p1, k on WS
1 Umschlag auf die Nadel machen = yo
1 M wie zum Rechtsstricken abheben, 1 M re und die abgehobene M über die gestrickte M heben = skp
2 M re zusammenstricken = k2tog
2 M wie zum rechts Zusammenstricken ungestrickt abheben, 1 M re und die abgehobenen M über die gestrickte M heben = cdd
Diagramm = Chart
Musterrapport wiederholt sich = pattern repeat
Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.
Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.
All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.
Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.
Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.
Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.
So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?
In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.
Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.
Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.
On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.
Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.
Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.
Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.
If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.