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Novita Merino 4PLY: Rantaleikki (Playing on the Beach) knitted T-shirt

As low as €3.83

Knitted top-down without seams, this bold block stripe T-shirt is a fun project thanks to the colour changes. Knitted from Novita Merino 4PLY.
Magazine Novita Kesä 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 45
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Merino 4PLY: Rantaleikki (Playing on the Beach) knitted T-shirt
Novita Merino 4PLY-534 tulip
€4.94
Novita Merino 4PLY-534 tulip
€4.94
Novita Merino 4PLY-534 tulip
€4.94
Novita Merino 4PLY-534 tulip
€4.94
Novita Merino 4PLY-534 tulip
€4.94
Novita Merino 4PLY-534 tulip
€4.94
Novita circular needles 60 cm-3.0 mm
€3.83
Novita double-pointed 20 cm birch -3.0 mm
€6.96

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Novita Merino 4PLY: Rantaleikki (Playing on the Beach) knitted T-shirt
Novita Merino 4PLY: Rantaleikki (Playing on the Beach) knitted T-shirt

In stock

€3.83

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N022145
    Pattern details
    Size
    98/104(110/116)122/128(134/140)146/152

    Yarn demand

    Novita Merino 4PLY

    Colour scheme 1 or colour scheme 2:

    A (707) Iris or (006) Semolina Porridge 50(50)50(50)50 g

    B (534) Tulip or (600) Barley 50(50)<100(100)100 g

    C (388) Pine or (112) Buttercup 50(50)50(100)100 g

    D (305) Cabbage White Butterfly or (649) Chantarelle 50(50)50(50)50 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in; 60 cm / 24 in) and double-pointed needles (for the sleeves, if you don’t use the Magic Loop technique) Novita 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or size needed for gauge



    Designer
    Sari Nordlund

    Details

    Neckline and top

    Using the short circular needle and colour A, cast on 54(54)57(57)61 sts and work set-up row as follows: p1, place marker (PM), p8(8)9(9)10, PM, p36(36)37(37)39, PM, p8(8)9(9)10, PM, p1. Do not join for working in the round until instructed.

    Row 1 (increase row, RS): Kfb (knit front and back, 1 st increased), m1L (left-leaning increase: insert left-needle from the front under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the back loop), slip marker (SM). Sleeve: k1, m1R (right-leaning increase: insert left needle from the back under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the front loop), knit to last st before next marker, m1L, k1, SM. Back: m1R, work to marker, m1L. Work the other sleeve as established. End the row with m1R, kfb. 10 sts increased, 64(64)67(67)71 sts on the needles: 3 sts in the fronts, 10(10)11(11)12 sts in the sleeves, 38(38)39(39)41 sts in the back.

    Row 2 (WS): *Purl to marker, SM*, repeat *–* 3 more times, purl to end.

    Row 3 (increase row, RS): K1, m1R, knit to marker, m1L, SM. *Sleeve: k1, m1R, knit to last st before marker, m1L, k1, SM.* Back: m1R, knit to marker, m1L, SM. In the other sleeve, repeat *–*. M1R, knit to last st, m1L, k1. 10 sts increased, 74(74)77(77)81 sts on the needles: 5 sts in the fronts, 12(12)13(13)14 sts in the sleeves, 40(40)41(41)43 sts in the back.

    Repeat rows 2–3 five more times. 124(124)127(127)131 sts on the needles: 15 sts in the fronts, 22(22)23(23)24 sts in the sleeves, 50(50)51(51)53 sts in the back.

    Next row: Knit to marker, m1L, SM. *Sleeve: k1, m1R, knit to last st before marker, m1L, k1, SM.* Back: m1R, knit to marker, m1L, SM. In the other sleeve, repeat *–*. M1R, knit to end of row. At the end of row,cast on 20(20)21(21)23 sts for the neckline and join for working in the round. Work stockinette st to first marker. The beginning of round is now here (= left front raglan). 152(152)156(156)162 sts on the needles: 52(52)53(53)55 sts in the front and back, 24(24)25(25)26 sts in both sleeves.

    Note: Switch to the longer circular needle when you need to.

    Work stockinette st. Increase as established on every other round 14(18)17(23)24 more times and then 5(4)6(3)3 times on every 4th round. 304(328)340(364)378 sts on the needles: 90(96)99(105)109 sts in the front and back, 62(68)71(77)80 sts in both sleeves.

    Note: When the piece measures 11(11)11,5(12,5)13,5 cm at the back midpoint, switch to colour B. Use colour B for 10(11)11,5(12,5)12,5 cm and colour C for 10(11)11,5(12,5)12,5 cm. Finish the piece with 10(11)11,5(12,5)12,5 cm in colour D.

    After you have completed the increases, on the next round separate the sleeves: *Leave next 62(68)71(77)80 sts on hold for the sleeve, removing markers as you go. Cast on 5(5)7(7)8 sts for armhole, work stockinette st to marker, remove marker*, repeat *–* once more. K2(2)3(3)4 and place marker for beginning of round (midpoint of left armhole). 190(202)212(224)234 sts on the needles:

    Body

    Work stockinette st in the round until the body measures 20(21)23(26)27 cm from the armhole.

    Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm, then loosely bind off in pattern.

    Sleeves

    Use either the double-pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique. Starting at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on, pick up and knit 1(1)2(2)4 sts from the cast-on, knit the 64(70)73(79)81 sleeve sts, pick up and knit 2(2)3(3)4 sts from the other end of the cast-on = 67(73)78(84)89 sts. Work stockinette st in the round, striping as established in the bodice.

    When the sleeve measures 2(1)1(1)1 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round (underside of the sleeve): k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Repeat the decreases every 1(1)2(2)1 cm 0(1)1(1)2 more time(s) = 65(69)74(80)83 sts. On the next round, decrease 1(1)0(0)1 st = 64(68)74(80)82 sts.

    When the piece measures 4(4)5(5)6 cm, work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.

    Finishing

    Neckline: Using the shorter circular needle and colour A, pick up and knit 96(98)100(102)104 sts from the neckline edge. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then loosely bind off in pattern.

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 68(72)76(80)84 cm / 26¾(28¼)30(31½)33 in

    middle back length 41(43)46(49)51 cm / 16¼(17)18(19¼)20 in

    inner sleeve length 7(7)8(8)9 cm / 2¾(2¾)3¼(3¼)3½ in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *p1, k1*, repeat *–*. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all rows. Stockinette stitch (flat): knit the right side rows and purl the wrong side rows.

    Gauge 28 sts and 38 rows in stockinette st = 10 cm / 4 in

    Note The shirt is knitted top-down without seams starting from the neckline.



    Neckline and top

    Using the short circular needle and colour A, cast on 54(54)57(57)61 sts and work set-up row as follows: p1, place marker (PM), p8(8)9(9)10, PM, p36(36)37(37)39, PM, p8(8)9(9)10, PM, p1. Do not join for working in the round until instructed.

    Row 1 (increase row, RS): Kfb (knit front and back, 1 st increased), m1L (left-leaning increase: insert left-needle from the front under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the back loop), slip marker (SM). Sleeve: k1, m1R (right-leaning increase: insert left needle from the back under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the front loop), knit to last st before next marker, m1L, k1, SM. Back: m1R, work to marker, m1L. Work the other sleeve as established. End the row with m1R, kfb. 10 sts increased, 64(64)67(67)71 sts on the needles: 3 sts in the fronts, 10(10)11(11)12 sts in the sleeves, 38(38)39(39)41 sts in the back.

    Row 2 (WS): *Purl to marker, SM*, repeat *–* 3 more times, purl to end.

    Row 3 (increase row, RS): K1, m1R, knit to marker, m1L, SM. *Sleeve: k1, m1R, knit to last st before marker, m1L, k1, SM.* Back: m1R, knit to marker, m1L, SM. In the other sleeve, repeat *–*. M1R, knit to last st, m1L, k1. 10 sts increased, 74(74)77(77)81 sts on the needles: 5 sts in the fronts, 12(12)13(13)14 sts in the sleeves, 40(40)41(41)43 sts in the back.

    Repeat rows 2–3 five more times. 124(124)127(127)131 sts on the needles: 15 sts in the fronts, 22(22)23(23)24 sts in the sleeves, 50(50)51(51)53 sts in the back.

    Next row: Knit to marker, m1L, SM. *Sleeve: k1, m1R, knit to last st before marker, m1L, k1, SM.* Back: m1R, knit to marker, m1L, SM. In the other sleeve, repeat *–*. M1R, knit to end of row. At the end of row,cast on 20(20)21(21)23 sts for the neckline and join for working in the round. Work stockinette st to first marker. The beginning of round is now here (= left front raglan). 152(152)156(156)162 sts on the needles: 52(52)53(53)55 sts in the front and back, 24(24)25(25)26 sts in both sleeves.

    Note: Switch to the longer circular needle when you need to.

    Work stockinette st. Increase as established on every other round 14(18)17(23)24 more times and then 5(4)6(3)3 times on every 4th round. 304(328)340(364)378 sts on the needles: 90(96)99(105)109 sts in the front and back, 62(68)71(77)80 sts in both sleeves.

    Note: When the piece measures 11(11)11,5(12,5)13,5 cm at the back midpoint, switch to colour B. Use colour B for 10(11)11,5(12,5)12,5 cm and colour C for 10(11)11,5(12,5)12,5 cm. Finish the piece with 10(11)11,5(12,5)12,5 cm in colour D.

    After you have completed the increases, on the next round separate the sleeves: *Leave next 62(68)71(77)80 sts on hold for the sleeve, removing markers as you go. Cast on 5(5)7(7)8 sts for armhole, work stockinette st to marker, remove marker*, repeat *–* once more. K2(2)3(3)4 and place marker for beginning of round (midpoint of left armhole). 190(202)212(224)234 sts on the needles:

    Body

    Work stockinette st in the round until the body measures 20(21)23(26)27 cm from the armhole.

    Work ribbing in the round for 4 cm, then loosely bind off in pattern.

    Sleeves

    Use either the double-pointed needles or the Magic Loop technique. Starting at the midpoint of the armhole cast-on, pick up and knit 1(1)2(2)4 sts from the cast-on, knit the 64(70)73(79)81 sleeve sts, pick up and knit 2(2)3(3)4 sts from the other end of the cast-on = 67(73)78(84)89 sts. Work stockinette st in the round, striping as established in the bodice.

    When the sleeve measures 2(1)1(1)1 cm, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning of round (underside of the sleeve): k1, k2tog, work to last 3 sts, skp (= slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass slipped st over), k1. Repeat the decreases every 1(1)2(2)1 cm 0(1)1(1)2 more time(s) = 65(69)74(80)83 sts. On the next round, decrease 1(1)0(0)1 st = 64(68)74(80)82 sts.

    When the piece measures 4(4)5(5)6 cm, work ribbing in the round for 3 cm. Loosely bind off in pattern.

    Finishing

    Neckline: Using the shorter circular needle and colour A, pick up and knit 96(98)100(102)104 sts from the neckline edge. Work ribbing in the round for 3 cm, then loosely bind off in pattern.

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

    With Novita's size guides, you'll knit socks and mittens from our favourite yarns, in any size.

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