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Novita Merino 4PLY: Pompula knitted baby tights

As low as €4.90

The Pompula baby tights are knitted in garter stitch using the soft Novita Merino 4PLY yarn.
Magazine Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
Pattern N:o in Magazine 39
Skill level Intermediate
Novita Merino 4PLY: Pompula knitted baby tights
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Novita Merino 4PLY: Pompula knitted baby tights
Novita Merino 4PLY: Pompula knitted baby tights

In stock

€4.90

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Summary

     

    Availability:In stock
    SKU N012139
    Pattern details
    Size
    56/62(68/74)80/86(92/98) cm

    Yarn demand

    Novita Merino 4PLY

    (006) Semolina Porridge 100(100)150(150) g

    (204) Buttercup <50 g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in) and double-pointed needles Novita 2½ mm (US 1½) 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½)



    Designer
    Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)

    Details

    Using the smaller circular needle, cast on 134(146)156(168) sts and place marker for beginning of round (back midpoint). Work ribbing in the round.

    When the piece measures 6 cm, make holes for the drawstrings in the front: work 61(67)71(77) sts in ribbing, yarn over, k2tog, work 8(8)10(10) sts in ribbing, yarn over, k2tog, work ribbing to end. Work until the ribbing measures 8 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle and work garter st in the round beginning with a purl round. Work garter st and begin long rows in the back: k10, turn work, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous row come over the needle = double stitch. Knit to beginning of round, p10, turn work, double stitch. *Purl to beginning of round, knit until you are 4 sts past the previous turning point (knit the loops of the double st together), turn work, double stitch. Knit to beginning of round, purl until you are 4 sts past the previous turning point (purl the loops of the double st together), turn work, double stitch.* Repeat *-* 2(3)4(5) more times and purl to beginning of round.

    Work garter st in the round (on the first round work the loops of the last double sts together) for 12(15,5)19(25) cm and finish with the purl round. Place a second marker at the front midpoint and begincrotch increases on the knit round: k1, m1L (insert left needle from the front under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the back loop), work to last st before second marker, m1R (insert left needle from the back under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the front loop), k1, slip marker, k1, m1L, work to last st, m1R, k1. Repeat the increases as established on every other round 3(3)4(5) more times. Work the purl round once more. 150(162)176(192) sts now on the needles.

    Separate legs: k1, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), k69(75)82(90), k2tog, k1. Leave the remaining 75(81)88(96) sts on hold for the right leg.

    Left leg

    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles. With the 73(79)86(94) sts, work garter st in the round starting with the purl round. On the next round, begin crotch decreases: k1, skp, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the increases every 2nd round 4(4)5(6) more times and then 8(10)11(13) times approx. every 2 cm (on knit rounds) = 47(49)52(54) sts.

    When the leg measures 17(21)25(29) cm from the crotch, on a knit round evenly decrease 9(9)10(10) sts = 38(40)42(44) sts. Purl 1 round and begin the heel on the next round: knit 1 round, turn work, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous row come over the needle = double stitch. K18(19)20(21), turn work, double stitch. Keep working garter st in short rows, turning the work before the previous double stitch.

    When 6(6)8(8) centre sts remain and you have last worked a WS row, turn work, double stitch. Begin long rows: work 5(5)7(7) sts and 1 double stitch (work the loops together). *Turn work, slip 1 purlwise. Work until you reach the double st at the other end. Work the loops of the double st together to form one st.* Repeat *-* until you have last knitted 17(18)19(20) sts and there is 1 double st at both ends. Work the loops of the next double st together and place marker for beginning of round.

    Work garter st in the round beginning with the purl round and purl the loops of the last double stitch together.

    When the foot section measures approx. 5(5,5)6(6,5) cm from the marker and you have last worked a purl round, begin toe decreases: k1, skp, k13(14)15(16), k2tog, k2, skp, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

    Repeat the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain. Break yarn and pull it through the sts.

    Right leg: mirror left leg.

    Finishing

    I-cord drawstrings: using the yellow yarn and the larger needles, cast on 4 sts. K4. *Do not turn work. Slide the sts back to the right end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k4.* Repeat *-* until the string measures approx. 110 cm, then bind off.

    Fold the waistband and sew the edge to the inside. Insert the drawstring.

    Make two pompoms approx. 4 cm in diameter and sew them to the ends of the string.

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Pattern instructions
    Finished dimensions

    waist circumference 48(52)56(60) cm / 19(20½)22(23½) in

    inner leg length 19(23)27(31) cm / 7½(9)10¾(12¼) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*, repeat *-*. Garter stitch in the round: *purl 1 round, knit 1 round*

    Using the smaller circular needle, cast on 134(146)156(168) sts and place marker for beginning of round (back midpoint). Work ribbing in the round.

    When the piece measures 6 cm, make holes for the drawstrings in the front: work 61(67)71(77) sts in ribbing, yarn over, k2tog, work 8(8)10(10) sts in ribbing, yarn over, k2tog, work ribbing to end. Work until the ribbing measures 8 cm.

    Switch to the larger circular needle and work garter st in the round beginning with a purl round. Work garter st and begin long rows in the back: k10, turn work, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous row come over the needle = double stitch. Knit to beginning of round, p10, turn work, double stitch. *Purl to beginning of round, knit until you are 4 sts past the previous turning point (knit the loops of the double st together), turn work, double stitch. Knit to beginning of round, purl until you are 4 sts past the previous turning point (purl the loops of the double st together), turn work, double stitch.* Repeat *-* 2(3)4(5) more times and purl to beginning of round.

    Work garter st in the round (on the first round work the loops of the last double sts together) for 12(15,5)19(25) cm and finish with the purl round. Place a second marker at the front midpoint and begincrotch increases on the knit round: k1, m1L (insert left needle from the front under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the back loop), work to last st before second marker, m1R (insert left needle from the back under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the front loop), k1, slip marker, k1, m1L, work to last st, m1R, k1. Repeat the increases as established on every other round 3(3)4(5) more times. Work the purl round once more. 150(162)176(192) sts now on the needles.

    Separate legs: k1, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), k69(75)82(90), k2tog, k1. Leave the remaining 75(81)88(96) sts on hold for the right leg.

    Left leg

    Switch to the larger double-pointed needles. With the 73(79)86(94) sts, work garter st in the round starting with the purl round. On the next round, begin crotch decreases: k1, skp, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. Repeat the increases every 2nd round 4(4)5(6) more times and then 8(10)11(13) times approx. every 2 cm (on knit rounds) = 47(49)52(54) sts.

    When the leg measures 17(21)25(29) cm from the crotch, on a knit round evenly decrease 9(9)10(10) sts = 38(40)42(44) sts. Purl 1 round and begin the heel on the next round: knit 1 round, turn work, slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front and tighten the yarn in the back of the work so the loops of the slipped st from the previous row come over the needle = double stitch. K18(19)20(21), turn work, double stitch. Keep working garter st in short rows, turning the work before the previous double stitch.

    When 6(6)8(8) centre sts remain and you have last worked a WS row, turn work, double stitch. Begin long rows: work 5(5)7(7) sts and 1 double stitch (work the loops together). *Turn work, slip 1 purlwise. Work until you reach the double st at the other end. Work the loops of the double st together to form one st.* Repeat *-* until you have last knitted 17(18)19(20) sts and there is 1 double st at both ends. Work the loops of the next double st together and place marker for beginning of round.

    Work garter st in the round beginning with the purl round and purl the loops of the last double stitch together.

    When the foot section measures approx. 5(5,5)6(6,5) cm from the marker and you have last worked a purl round, begin toe decreases: k1, skp, k13(14)15(16), k2tog, k2, skp, work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.

    Repeat the decreases on every round until 8 sts remain. Break yarn and pull it through the sts.

    Right leg: mirror left leg.

    Finishing

    I-cord drawstrings: using the yellow yarn and the larger needles, cast on 4 sts. K4. *Do not turn work. Slide the sts back to the right end of the needle. Hold yarn in back and k4.* Repeat *-* until the string measures approx. 110 cm, then bind off.

    Fold the waistband and sew the edge to the inside. Insert the drawstring.

    Make two pompoms approx. 4 cm in diameter and sew them to the ends of the string.

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.


    Skill levels

    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge & Swatching

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

    Size charts

    Find size guides for your knitting projects

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