Novita Merino 4PLY: Päivänpaiste baby bodysuit

As low as €5.92 Regular Price €6.96

The Päivänpaiste (Sunshine) baby bodysuit features long sleeves and a textured stitch pattern. Knitted with the thin Novita Merino 4PLY yarn.
Novita Kevät 2021 -lehti (in Finnish)
38
Intermediate
Customize Novita Merino 4PLY: Päivänpaiste baby bodysuit

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    €5.92

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    Availability: In stock

    N012138
    Size
    56/62(68/74)80/86(92/98) cm

    Yarn demand

    Novita Merino 4PLY

    (204) Buttercup 100(100)150(150) g



    Needles and other supplies

    Circular needles (40 cm / 16 in) and double-pointed needles Novita 2½ mm (US 1½) and 3 mm (UK 11 / US 2½) or sizes needed to obtain gauge

    Crochet hook Novita 2½ mm (UK 12)

    Other supplies 4 buttons



    Designer
    Ronja Hakalehto

    Yoke

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 87(91)95(97) sts. Keep slipping the first st purlwise and work ribbing for 1,5 cm (there will be a slit in the back).

    Switch to the larger needles. Work the WS row and at the same time place markers for raglan increases: Back: slip 1 purlwise, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p11(11)12(12), place 1st marker. Sleeve: p9(11)11(12), place 2nd marker. Front: p35(35)37(37), place 3rd marker. Sleeve: p9(11)11(12), place 4th marker. Back: p11(11)12(12), k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1.

    On the RS row begin raglan increases: Back: slip 1 purlwise, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k10(10)11(11), m1R (insert left needle from the back under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the front loop), k1, slip 1st marker. Sleeve: k1, m1L (insert left needle from the front under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the back loop), k7(9)9(10), m1R, k1, slip 2nd marker. In the front, begin mock cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: k1, m1L, k0(0)1(1), p3, *slip 1, k2, pass the slipped st over, p3*, repeat *-* 4(4)4(4) more times, k0(0)1(1), m1R, k1,slip 3rd marker. Sleeve: k1, m1L, k7(9)9(10),m1R, k1, slip 4th marker. Back: k1, m1L, k10(10)11(11), p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1. 8 sts increased, 95(99)103(105) sts now on the needles.

    Keep increasing on every other row. Work rows 2-4 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-4. Work the increased sts following the mock cable pattern.

    When the piece measures 3,5 cm, on a RS row increase 1 purl st at the end of row and place marker for beginning of round = 96(100)104(106) sts. Join for working in the round. At the slit in the back, work ribbing for 1 cm and then work stockinette st. Work the raglan increases 23(24)25(27) times in total. When there are 79(81)81(81) sts in the mock cable section in the front, start knitting the increased sts. 272(284)296(314) sts on the needles after the increases: 55(59)61(66) sts in both sleeves, 81(83)87(91) sts in the front and back.

    On the next round remove all raglan markers and divide for armholes: work 40(41)43(45) back sts, leave 55(59)61(66) sleeve sts on hold, cast on 1(2)2(2) st(s) for armhole, work 81(83)87(91) front sts, leave 55(59)61(66) sleeve sts on hold, cast on 1(2)2(2) st(s) for armhole, work 41(42)44(46) back sts. 164(170)178(186) sts on the needles: 82(85)89(93) sts in the front and back.

    Body

    In the back, work stockinette st; in the front, follow the mock cable chart.

    When the side measures 18(20)22(24) cm from the armhole, divide the sts for the crotch: work 30(31)33(35) back sts, bind off next 38(40)42(43) sts, work 27(27)27(29) front sts, bind off next 38(40)42(43) sts. Leave the front sts on hold.

     

    Back crotch

    With the 61(63)67(71) back sts, work stockinette st and on every other row bind off at both ends: 4(4)4(4)x4 sts, 1(1)1(2)x3 sts and 1(2)3(2)x1 st = 21(21)23(23) sts. Work 2 more rows in stockinette st.

    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing for 2,5 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Front crotch

    Place the 27(27)27(29) front sts onto the larger needles and resume the mock cable pattern. At the beginning of row bind off 1x3(3)2(3) sts, work to end. Turn work, bind off 1x3(3)2(3) sts, work to end = 21(21)23(23) sts.

    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing for 1 cm. On the next row make a buttonhole: work 10(10)11(11) sts in ribbing, yarn over, work 2 sts together, work ribbing to end. Work until the ribbing measures 2,5 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Leg openings

    Using the smaller needles and with RS facing, pick up and knit sts from the back ribbing, leg opening and front ribbing. Pick up an odd number of sts. Work ribbing for 2 rows, then make a buttonhole approx. 0,5 cm from the front edge: yarn over, knit or purl 2 sts together as required to maintain pattern. Work until the ribbing measures 2 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other leg opening in the same manner.

    Sleeves

    Place the 55(59)61(66) sleeve sts onto the larger double-pointed needles and pick up and knit 1(1)2(2) st(s) from the armhole cast-on and 1 st from both ends, from between the cast-on and sleeve. Place marker at the midpoint of the picked-up sts (beginning of round, midpoint of armhole) = 58(62)65(70) sts.

    Distribute the sts onto four needles and work stockinette st in the round.

    When the sleeve measures 1,5 cm from the armhole, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning or round: k1, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 = 56(60)63(68) sts. Repeat the decreases every 1,5(1,5)1,5(1,5) cm 9(9)10(12) more times = 38(42)43(44) sts.

    When the sleeve measures 14(16)18(19) cm from the armhole, knit 1 round, evenly decreasing 0(2)1(0) sts = 38(40)42(44) sts.

    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 2 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Button loop: Join yarn with 1 slip stitch into the top corner of the back slit. Chain 7, close loop with 1 slip stitch.

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the buttons to the bottom edge of the back piece and top corner of the slit.

    Finished dimensions

    body circumference 50(52)56(62) cm / 19¾(20½)22(24½) in

    back from neck to crotch approx. 36(39)43(46) cm / 14¼(15¼)17(18) in

    inner sleeve length 16(18)20(21) cm / 6¼(7)7¾(8¼) in



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns Ribbing: *k1, p1*, repeat *-*. On the wrong side rows, knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Ribbing in the round: *k1, p1*

    Yoke

    Using the smaller needles, cast on 87(91)95(97) sts. Keep slipping the first st purlwise and work ribbing for 1,5 cm (there will be a slit in the back).

    Switch to the larger needles. Work the WS row and at the same time place markers for raglan increases: Back: slip 1 purlwise, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p11(11)12(12), place 1st marker. Sleeve: p9(11)11(12), place 2nd marker. Front: p35(35)37(37), place 3rd marker. Sleeve: p9(11)11(12), place 4th marker. Back: p11(11)12(12), k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1.

    On the RS row begin raglan increases: Back: slip 1 purlwise, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k10(10)11(11), m1R (insert left needle from the back under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the front loop), k1, slip 1st marker. Sleeve: k1, m1L (insert left needle from the front under the strand of yarn between the sts and knit it through the back loop), k7(9)9(10), m1R, k1, slip 2nd marker. In the front, begin mock cable pattern on row 1 of the chart: k1, m1L, k0(0)1(1), p3, *slip 1, k2, pass the slipped st over, p3*, repeat *-* 4(4)4(4) more times, k0(0)1(1), m1R, k1,slip 3rd marker. Sleeve: k1, m1L, k7(9)9(10),m1R, k1, slip 4th marker. Back: k1, m1L, k10(10)11(11), p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1. 8 sts increased, 95(99)103(105) sts now on the needles.

    Keep increasing on every other row. Work rows 2-4 of the chart, then keep repeating rows 1-4. Work the increased sts following the mock cable pattern.

    When the piece measures 3,5 cm, on a RS row increase 1 purl st at the end of row and place marker for beginning of round = 96(100)104(106) sts. Join for working in the round. At the slit in the back, work ribbing for 1 cm and then work stockinette st. Work the raglan increases 23(24)25(27) times in total. When there are 79(81)81(81) sts in the mock cable section in the front, start knitting the increased sts. 272(284)296(314) sts on the needles after the increases: 55(59)61(66) sts in both sleeves, 81(83)87(91) sts in the front and back.

    On the next round remove all raglan markers and divide for armholes: work 40(41)43(45) back sts, leave 55(59)61(66) sleeve sts on hold, cast on 1(2)2(2) st(s) for armhole, work 81(83)87(91) front sts, leave 55(59)61(66) sleeve sts on hold, cast on 1(2)2(2) st(s) for armhole, work 41(42)44(46) back sts. 164(170)178(186) sts on the needles: 82(85)89(93) sts in the front and back.

    Body

    In the back, work stockinette st; in the front, follow the mock cable chart.

    When the side measures 18(20)22(24) cm from the armhole, divide the sts for the crotch: work 30(31)33(35) back sts, bind off next 38(40)42(43) sts, work 27(27)27(29) front sts, bind off next 38(40)42(43) sts. Leave the front sts on hold.

     

    Back crotch

    With the 61(63)67(71) back sts, work stockinette st and on every other row bind off at both ends: 4(4)4(4)x4 sts, 1(1)1(2)x3 sts and 1(2)3(2)x1 st = 21(21)23(23) sts. Work 2 more rows in stockinette st.

    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing for 2,5 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Front crotch

    Place the 27(27)27(29) front sts onto the larger needles and resume the mock cable pattern. At the beginning of row bind off 1x3(3)2(3) sts, work to end. Turn work, bind off 1x3(3)2(3) sts, work to end = 21(21)23(23) sts.

    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing for 1 cm. On the next row make a buttonhole: work 10(10)11(11) sts in ribbing, yarn over, work 2 sts together, work ribbing to end. Work until the ribbing measures 2,5 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Leg openings

    Using the smaller needles and with RS facing, pick up and knit sts from the back ribbing, leg opening and front ribbing. Pick up an odd number of sts. Work ribbing for 2 rows, then make a buttonhole approx. 0,5 cm from the front edge: yarn over, knit or purl 2 sts together as required to maintain pattern. Work until the ribbing measures 2 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other leg opening in the same manner.

    Sleeves

    Place the 55(59)61(66) sleeve sts onto the larger double-pointed needles and pick up and knit 1(1)2(2) st(s) from the armhole cast-on and 1 st from both ends, from between the cast-on and sleeve. Place marker at the midpoint of the picked-up sts (beginning of round, midpoint of armhole) = 58(62)65(70) sts.

    Distribute the sts onto four needles and work stockinette st in the round.

    When the sleeve measures 1,5 cm from the armhole, decrease 1 st on both sides of the beginning or round: k1, skp (slip 1 knitwise, k1, pass the slipped st over), work to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 = 56(60)63(68) sts. Repeat the decreases every 1,5(1,5)1,5(1,5) cm 9(9)10(12) more times = 38(42)43(44) sts.

    When the sleeve measures 14(16)18(19) cm from the armhole, knit 1 round, evenly decreasing 0(2)1(0) sts = 38(40)42(44) sts.

    Switch to the smaller needles and work ribbing in the round for 2 cm. Bind off in pattern.

    Knit the other sleeve in the same manner.

    Finishing

    Button loop: Join yarn with 1 slip stitch into the top corner of the back slit. Chain 7, close loop with 1 slip stitch.

    Pin to measurements wrong side up, mist and allow to dry.

    Sew the buttons to the bottom edge of the back piece and top corner of the slit.


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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