Novita Merino 4PLY: Louna Round-yoke top

As low as €5.95

The short-sleeved Louna round-yoke top is like a timed work of art. Louna is worked in the round from the bottom up. The airy and soft Novita Merino 4PLY yarn feels great on the skin.
Novita Kesä 2022 -lehti (in Finnish)
2
Intermediate
Customize Novita Merino 4PLY: Louna Round-yoke top

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    €5.95

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    Availability: In stock

    N02222
    Size
    XS/S(M)L(XL)

    Yarn demand

    Novita Merino 4PLY

    (006) Semolina 150(200)200(250) g,

    (724) Fog 50(100)100(100) g

    and (649) Chanterelle, (305) White Cabbage and (388) Pine, 50 g each



    Needles and other supplies

    Needles: Novita Circular needles (40, 60 and 80 cm/16, 24 and 32”) size 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) or size needed to fit gauge, a set of dpns size 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) for armhole borders.

    Crochet hook: 3–4 mm (US 2.5-6/UK 11-8)



    Designer
    Sisko Sälpäkivi

    Back and front, lower part

    The top is worked in one piece, up to the armholes.

    CO 256(276)300(320) sts using color Semolina and circ. ndl size 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm/1.2”. Work 2 rows in st st.

    Continue working colourwork pattern acc to chart I, row 1 and work patt rep of 4 sts 64(69)75(80) times. Rep rows 1-8 of the chart, until work measures approx. 29(30)31(32) cm/11.4(11.8)12.2(12.6)” , ending with row 6 of the chart. Place markers on both sides of the work, one at the beg of the rnd and one at the middle of the rnd.

    At the beg of the next rnd, BO 12(16)20(24) sts for the armhole, work in pattern to the last 12(16)20(24) sts before next M, BO 24(32)40(48) sts for second armhole, work in pattern to the last 12(16)20(24) sts of the rnd and BO these sts. Cut yarn. There are now 104(106)110(112) each, for front and back.

     

    Yoke

    For the armholes, provisionally CO 80(90)94(104) sts using a crochet chain, cut yarn and repeat once more.

    Using color Semolina, work 104(106)110(112) back-sts, PUK 80(90)94(104) sts from the back of the crochet chain, work 104(106)110(112) front-sts and PUK 80(90)94(104) sts from the back of the second crochet chain = 368(392)408(432) sts. This is now the beg of rnd, between right armhole and back.

    Continue working in colourwork pattern acc to chart II(III)IV(V), row 1 (make sure, the colourwork motifs of chart 1 match the motifs of chart II(III)IV(V) ) and work patt rep of 8 sts 46(49)51(54) times.

    Work rows 2–62(66)69(73) and at the same time, work dec’s as indicated in chart. Per patt rep, 5 sts are decreased, i.e. a total of 230(245)255(270) sts. There are now138(147)153(162) sts on the ndl and the length of the yoke measures approx. 17(18)19(20) cm/6.7(7.1)7.5(7.9)”.

    Using color Semolina, knit 1 row.

    Work in ribbing in the round for 3 cm/1.2” and in the first rnd, dec 2(7)9(14) sts, evenly spaced = 136(140)144(148) sts. Loosely BO all sts in pattern.

     

    Armhole borders

    Carefully unzip the crochet chain of the provisional CO and place 80(90)94(104) live sts of armhole back onto the ndl. Subsequently, PUK 24(30)40(48) sts along underarm CO edge = 104(120)134(152) sts. Knit 1 rnd and at the same time, dec 12(20)22(28) sts, evenly spaced = 92(100)112(124) sts. Work ribbing for 3 cm/1.2” and loosely BO all sts.

    Work border around second armhole in the same way.

     

    Finishing

    Place work inside out onto a flat surface, dampen and leave to dry, or steam lightly.

     

    Abbrevations

    acc = according

    beg = begin(ning)

    BO = bind off

    circ. = circular

    CO = cast on

    dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)

    dec(‘s) = decrease(s)

    inc(‘s) = increase(s)

    k = knit

    k2tog = knit 2 stitches together

    M = marker

    ndl(s) = needle(s)

    p = purl

    patt = pattern

    PUK = pick up and knit

    rem = remaining

    rep = repeat

    rnd(s) = round(s)

    RS = right side

    skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over

    st(s) = stitch(es)

    st st = stockinette st

    WS = wrong side

     

     

    Translations charts and legend:

    1 M re in Farbe Griesbrei (006) = k1 in color Semolina (006)

    1 M re in Farbe Kohlweissling (305) = k1 in color White Cabbage (305)

    1 M re in Farbe Schleier (724) = k1 in color Fog (724)

    1 M re in Farbe Kiefer (388) = k1 in color Pine (388)

    1 M re in Farbe Pfifferling (649) = k1 in color Chantarelle (649)

    2 M re zusammen in Farbe des Kästchens = k2tog in color of square

    1 M ungestrickt abheben, 1 M re in Farbe des Kästchens und die abgehobene M über die gestrickte M heben = skp in color of square

     

    Diagramm = Chart

    .. M Musterrapport wiederholt sich = ... sts pattern repeat

     

    Finished dimensions

    Finished measurements:

    Chest circumference: 94(102)110(118) cm/37(40)43.3(46.5)”

    Length mid back: 49(51)53(55) cm/19.3(20.1)21(21.7)”



    Stitch patterns & gauge

    Stitch patterns: Ribbing in the round: *k2, p2, rep from *. Stockinette stitch in the round: knit all sts. Colourwork pattern: work acc to written instructions and charts. Stockinette stitch worked flat: knit the RS rows, purl the WS rows.

    Gauge/Tension: 27 sts and 39 rows in colourwork pattern = 10 cm/4” square, in the yoke 37 rows in colourwork pattern = 10 cm/4” square

    Note: The yoke is worked in one piece, from the bottom up.



    Back and front, lower part

    The top is worked in one piece, up to the armholes.

    CO 256(276)300(320) sts using color Semolina and circ. ndl size 3 mm (US 2.5/UK 11) and work ribbing in the round for 3 cm/1.2”. Work 2 rows in st st.

    Continue working colourwork pattern acc to chart I, row 1 and work patt rep of 4 sts 64(69)75(80) times. Rep rows 1-8 of the chart, until work measures approx. 29(30)31(32) cm/11.4(11.8)12.2(12.6)” , ending with row 6 of the chart. Place markers on both sides of the work, one at the beg of the rnd and one at the middle of the rnd.

    At the beg of the next rnd, BO 12(16)20(24) sts for the armhole, work in pattern to the last 12(16)20(24) sts before next M, BO 24(32)40(48) sts for second armhole, work in pattern to the last 12(16)20(24) sts of the rnd and BO these sts. Cut yarn. There are now 104(106)110(112) each, for front and back.

     

    Yoke

    For the armholes, provisionally CO 80(90)94(104) sts using a crochet chain, cut yarn and repeat once more.

    Using color Semolina, work 104(106)110(112) back-sts, PUK 80(90)94(104) sts from the back of the crochet chain, work 104(106)110(112) front-sts and PUK 80(90)94(104) sts from the back of the second crochet chain = 368(392)408(432) sts. This is now the beg of rnd, between right armhole and back.

    Continue working in colourwork pattern acc to chart II(III)IV(V), row 1 (make sure, the colourwork motifs of chart 1 match the motifs of chart II(III)IV(V) ) and work patt rep of 8 sts 46(49)51(54) times.

    Work rows 2–62(66)69(73) and at the same time, work dec’s as indicated in chart. Per patt rep, 5 sts are decreased, i.e. a total of 230(245)255(270) sts. There are now138(147)153(162) sts on the ndl and the length of the yoke measures approx. 17(18)19(20) cm/6.7(7.1)7.5(7.9)”.

    Using color Semolina, knit 1 row.

    Work in ribbing in the round for 3 cm/1.2” and in the first rnd, dec 2(7)9(14) sts, evenly spaced = 136(140)144(148) sts. Loosely BO all sts in pattern.

     

    Armhole borders

    Carefully unzip the crochet chain of the provisional CO and place 80(90)94(104) live sts of armhole back onto the ndl. Subsequently, PUK 24(30)40(48) sts along underarm CO edge = 104(120)134(152) sts. Knit 1 rnd and at the same time, dec 12(20)22(28) sts, evenly spaced = 92(100)112(124) sts. Work ribbing for 3 cm/1.2” and loosely BO all sts.

    Work border around second armhole in the same way.

     

    Finishing

    Place work inside out onto a flat surface, dampen and leave to dry, or steam lightly.

     

    Abbrevations

    acc = according

    beg = begin(ning)

    BO = bind off

    circ. = circular

    CO = cast on

    dpn(s) = double pointed needle(s)

    dec(‘s) = decrease(s)

    inc(‘s) = increase(s)

    k = knit

    k2tog = knit 2 stitches together

    M = marker

    ndl(s) = needle(s)

    p = purl

    patt = pattern

    PUK = pick up and knit

    rem = remaining

    rep = repeat

    rnd(s) = round(s)

    RS = right side

    skp = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over

    st(s) = stitch(es)

    st st = stockinette st

    WS = wrong side

     

     

    Translations charts and legend:

    1 M re in Farbe Griesbrei (006) = k1 in color Semolina (006)

    1 M re in Farbe Kohlweissling (305) = k1 in color White Cabbage (305)

    1 M re in Farbe Schleier (724) = k1 in color Fog (724)

    1 M re in Farbe Kiefer (388) = k1 in color Pine (388)

    1 M re in Farbe Pfifferling (649) = k1 in color Chantarelle (649)

    2 M re zusammen in Farbe des Kästchens = k2tog in color of square

    1 M ungestrickt abheben, 1 M re in Farbe des Kästchens und die abgehobene M über die gestrickte M heben = skp in color of square

     

    Diagramm = Chart

    .. M Musterrapport wiederholt sich = ... sts pattern repeat

     


    Beginner

    Have you just learned to knit, maybe still trying to figure out the very basics like knit and purl stitches? Or are you picking up knitting again for the first time since elementary school? Start here.

    Technique

    Beginner-level patterns include only basic knitting techniques: knitting and purling. You’ll also need to cast on and cast off stitches. The projects can be worked flat or in the round. Easy, regular decreases are used. Most patterns are worked in stockinette or garter stitch. Other simple stitch patterns may occur, and they are always detailed in the written pattern. Stripes of different colours may be used, but no more advanced colourwork.

    Patterns

    All patterns are written and do not include charts. Abbreviations are not used. Getting gauge is not crucial to the finished piece. Patterns include mostly accessories such as scarved and beanies. Pillowcases and other home decoration pieces.

    Adventurous beginner

    Got the basics covered? You’d like to take a swing at your first pair of socks, perhaps some easy cables or colourwork? A treasure of patterns awaits you on this level.

    Technique

    Patterns on this level may include simple colourwork, cables or lace. Colourwork patterns repeats are relatively short, cables simple and symmetrical and lace patterns easy and relatively small, covering details rather than entire pieces. The colourwork, cable and lace stitches are not worked into decreases or increases. Colourwork yarn floats are short, max. 3-4 stitches. Picking up stitches may occur. On this level, you’ll also find easy patterns using domino knitting, log cabin knitting or tunisian crochet.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include simple charts. In case special techniques are employed, they are detailed our in the instructions, either as text or e.g. through videos. The patterns may also suggest ”shortcuts”, i.e. easier ways to accomplish a technique. Most of the basic socks with heel flaps or afterthought heels are on this level, as well as mittens with no-gusset thumbs. There’s also plenty of sweaters, usually yoke sweaters or raglan sleeve sweaters.

    Intermediate

    So knitting is a regular hobby for you? Abbreviations, charts and instructions are no more than a walk in the park? Perhaps you’re looking for something to challenge yourself with, even at the odds of frogging?

    Technique

    In addition to basic techniques, some special techniques may be employed on this level, e.g. short rows. The same pattern may include both lace and cables. Magic loop knitting or entrelac, two-coloured brioche stitch, also here. In general, patterns require a more advanced ability to "read" your knitting. Lace patterns are also more advanced than on the previous level, but the lace stitches are still worked on right side only. Intarsia may be included, but in relatively simple and symmetrical patterns.

    Patterns

    Patterns on this level can feature concurrent shaping, e.g. neckline shaping at the same time as sleeve decreases or sleeve decreases into cable pattern. Sweater sleeves may require more advanced shaping. Most of our sweaters are at this level. Other patterns include e.g. magic loop patterns and toe-up socks.

    Advanced

    Turn off that telly and lash the doors, maximum concetration required! Although this skill level doesn’t bring much more in terms of technique, there’s simply more going on at the same time. Skill, concentration and perception are requisite.

    Technique

    On this level, you’ll find more advanced intarsia patterns, including intarsia in the round. Brioche patterns with decreases and/or cables are also here. Beginning of rounds may shift and multiple markers are needed. Lace or cable stitches may be worked also from wrong side. We’ve also included patterns featuring steeks here. Steeking isn’t hard as such, but requires the nerves and confidence of an experienced knitter.

    Patterns

    Patterns may include complex steps and require simultaneous reading of both charts and written instructions. Gauge may vary over different steps of the project. The patterns often feature much details and a combination of techniques. The size of the project is not what determines whether it’s advanced or not; focus is on technique, overall complexity and the risk of errors during the project.

    Gauge and Swatching

    Every pattern is based on a certain gauge, expressed as stitches or rows per 10 cm. It is important that you make a swatch to check your gauge before you start the actual project. If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern’s gauge, your finished garment won’t be the correct size either.

    Swatching Start by knitting a swatch. Use the yarn, the needles and the stitch pattern you intend to use in the project. Make the swatch a little wider than 10 cm, so that you’ll be able to measure the stitches properly. Block the swatch by pinning it to a surface, then steam it gently. Count the stitches; put a pin in a stitch, then measure 10 cm from that stitch and put another pin there. Count the stitches from pin to pin – that’s your gauge! If needed, measure both horizontal and vertical gauge (rows). If you’re measuring rib or brioche stitches, stretch out the swatch slightly before measuring.

    Adjusting gauge

    If your gauge doesn’t match the pattern gauge, you can adjust it by switching needle size. If your swatch has too few stitches per 10 cm (i.e. your knitting is too loose), switch to smaller needles. Conversely, if your swatch has too many stitches per 10 cm, your knitting is too tight and you’ll need a larger pair of needles. Always knit another swatch in order to determine proper gauge and sizing. Also note that the pattern yardage only applies to the pattern yarn, the yardage may differ if you choose another yarn.

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